Octalink alignment

[Cat3roadracer]

I am installing a DA 7700 crank on an octalink BB. I have the drive side in and snugged, I cannot for the life of me get the other side to line up. The detents are one notch off. I have only done this a thousand times with no issues, what am I doing wrong? No wonder why the inventor of the outboard BB is a genius.

[Ssalmon]

Snug the drive side completely, then loosen it half a turn. The attempt to install the non-drive side cup. Once the non drive side cup is snug, tighten the drive side as tight as you can.

[Ssalmon]

Unless its the roller bearing bottom bracket... Then I can't remember the proper procedure.

[Black Dog]

Put the non drive side on and then remove the drive side and shift it over one notch. :)

[jds108]

Does anybody know if this might indicate a v1 crank and a v2 BB? I haven't ever used a v2 bb so I don't have the answer to this, but I've seen the pics and the two types are awfully similar...

[cmbicycles]

If I understand the OP's question correctly, it is installing the crank arms that is the problem, not the bottom bracket. What model BB are you using? If the drive side crank went on w/o any problem, its probably not a v1/v2 interface problem, at least I hope not cause the cranks would probably now be ruined. I think v2, has longer wider splines than v1, so they aren't interchangeable. I can't imagine that the crank would be one notch off.

Try to take the fixing bolt and extractor cap out of the ND crankarm, then put the arm on by hand to line up the splines so you can see them. tap it with a soft face mallet to seat once they are lined up, then reinstall the crank bolt, self extracting cap, & washers and torque it to spec.

[EricEstlund]

If it's a V2 BB the cranks are done- but you would have had a heck of a time doing it. Sheldon Brown has a nice photo (http://sheldonbrown.com/images/bbsx4-labeled.jpg) of different interfaces if you are in doubt.

Just walk away and come back to it- it's really fairly straight forward so don't rush it. If you have the self extracting bolts or shields on, take those off so you can see that the splines are lining up with the cranks. Pull both arms and start over- you'll be ok.

[eddief]

makes me appreciate the simplicity of and re engineering that went into Hollowtech. So cool how they took that crappy Octalink internal tool interface and simply brought it to the outside. One of my favorite evolutions in bike tech.

[oldpotatoe]

I am installing a DA 7700 crank on an octalink BB. I have the drive side in and snugged, I cannot for the life of me get the other side to line up. The detents are one notch off. I have only done this a thousand times with no issues, what am I doing wrong? No wonder why the inventor of the outboard BB is a genius.

Take the cap off the LH side first? Look in there and line up, then tighten the bolt, then replace the cap. IS the spindle broken? Seen that twice.

Outboard BBs were an answer to ISIS and octalink issues..not square taper, BTW-IMHO.

If the BB was V2..couldn't get the RH crank on but if ya did, the crank is history.

[eddief]

on later square taper. those never cracked :).

Take the cap off the LH side first? Look in there and line up, then tighten the bolt, then replace the cap. IS the spindle broken? Seen that twice.

Outboard BBs were an answer to ISIS and octalink issues..not square taper, BTW-IMHO.

[oldpotatoe]

on later square taper. those never cracked :).

use a metal cup..yep, those $10 BBs had a LH plastic cup..take a toasted UN series LH metal cup and replace.