Help!!! I've tried everything ( I think)

[SoCalSteve]

Hi all,

So my Colnago C59 (http://forums.thepaceline.net/showpost.php?p=1291088&postcount=1) has an annoying clicking sound. It happens on every revolution of the pedal as it hits the 3 o'clock position. It only happens when I turn the drive side pedal. It only happens under load...

Here is what I have done so far:

New pedals
3 different pairs of shoes
Different skewers
Different rear wheel
Greased and retourqued bottom bracket
Tightened bolts on crank set
Tried different crankset and bottom bracket
Greased rear drop outs
Tightened headset
Tightened cassette
There is probably more, just can't think of it all now.

The only thing I haven't tried is replacing the chain. I checked the chain for tight links or pin sticking out...nada.

Help! I hate these noises!!! Drives me crazy!!!

Thoughts, suggestions, opinions all welcome.

As always, thank you all in advance!

Steve

[cash05458]

know any doctor friends who might give you a valium prescription? that might help in the short term...

I say that as this sorta stuff drives me up the wall as well...like trying to find a flea under the floorboard and drives you nuts...

[ultraman6970]

Are you using campagnolo UT by any chance?

Put some oil in the forn wheel quick release... it might be that or maybe the tire valve?

[vqdriver]

edit: never mind. i see you tried different cranks

did you inspect the bb shell while you had the cranks/bb off?

[Columbus SLX]

I mean, if it makes the noise with a completely different crankset, BB and shoes, I can't imagine anything other than the frame itself making the click. With it happening at 3 o'clock on the cranks, everything that completes a different rotation (wheels, chain, etc.) is eliminated.

You could try a conventional ST crankset as a way of determining if it's UT related.

[tuscanyswe]

Last week i had a similar experience. Was driving me nuts too. I could have sworn it was the crank but it prolly was the saddle or seatpost.

Dont really have a good explanation other than perhaps i shift my weight at exactly the same spot on the saddle for each revolution. Some oil drops on the rails and some regreasing the post. Silent again... Well almost at least!

[Columbus SLX]

Last week i had a similar experience. Was driving me nuts too. I could have sworn it was the crank but it prolly was the saddle or seatpost.

Dont really have a good explanation other than perhaps i shift my weight at exactly the same spot on the saddle for each revolution. Some oil drops on the rails and some regreasing the post. Silent again... Well almost at least!

Interesting, does the OP's click happen both in the saddle and standing?

[terry]

It might be the valve stems knocking against the carbon rims. Happened to me, I had to put electrical tape around them to get it to stop. Cut a piece, slice a small slit and then slip it over the stems so the tape is tight around the stem. I hate noises, too.

[Dude]

Have you taken it to a shop? There are many, many other places I'd look for a click. Take it to a good shop and have them diagnose it (not that I'm doubting your skills as a mechanic).

PS
Headset (greased?)
stem/faceplate
actual cleat
wheels (spokes, etc)


Also, does it happen when you pedal backwards?

[SoCalSteve]

Answer a couple questions...

Happens seated and standing
Only happens in forward rotation
Shimano crankset and bottom bracket

I'm thinking a shop might be a good idea at this point as I'm out of them!!!

[pbarry]

Pedals?

[eddief]

one loose spoke nipple or just dry nipples. i hate those. check tension, lube em up.

[evo111@comcast.net]

Make sure your skewers are really snug/tight - this cured one of the clicks I had.

What type of tires? On Tubulars the valve stem can cause clicks as the wheel rotates. I cut a 1" piece of a straw then slit it open along the length and slip it around the valve stem and the rim. Eliminated valve stem clicks.

[eddief]

My Roubaix was flipping me out last week. It has an S-Works carbon post. There are arrows on the rail clamp that MUST be lined up. But somehow you can tighten all the way without lining them up. If you do that the noise will wreck your ride. Read it on th net and the advice was the fix for that noise.

[SoCalSteve]

Pedals?

Swapped to a brand new set.

[SoCalSteve]

one loose spoke nipple or just dry nipples. i hate those. check tension, lube em up.

Tried 2 different wheels, same noise with both wheels.

[SoCalSteve]

Make sure your skewers are really snug/tight - this cured one of the clicks I had.

What type of tires? On Tubulars the valve stem can cause clicks as the wheel rotates. I cut a 1" piece of a straw then slit it open along the length and slip it around the valve stem and the rim. Eliminated valve stem clicks.

Tried different sets of skewers and greased them well.

[Ralph]

I had an annoying click on my 10's Campy set up. Never could figure out where it came from. It didn't happen every rotation though. Finally solved the mystery.

I was using a quick link called "Super Link" on my Campy 10 chain. Switched to a KMC link and never heard that sound again.

[Black Dog]

FD cage hitting the crank under load? Does it happen in both the big and small ring?

[SoCalSteve]

FD cage hitting the crank under load? Does it happen in both the big and small ring?

Yes, happens in every combination of gears...

[pbarry]

OK, betting serious money on the front derailleur. Only thing that makes sense at this point. Put the bike on the stand and check the FD alignment vs. the right crank arm. If there's no clicking when you only apply pressure on the left crank arm, and you get it when pressure is only applied only on the right, then drive side is the problem, and most factors have been discounted. Remove the FD and see if it happens.

[54ny77]

I'm thinking you got the C59 "Bushmen Edition." It's a rare model.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=spAoy1_6tu8

[David Kirk]

Is the front derailleur braze-on or clamp?

What kind of headset does it have?


dave

[1centaur]

While seated and standing makes the seat post and saddle less likely, if the seat tube is flexing under load it's still possible. Pull post and use friction paste when replacing; remove and replace saddle and grease the rails and bolts while you're at it.

[Lovetoclimb]

Something contacting the cable sticking out of the front derailleur? I sometimes get this when the cable is a bit long and my crank arm contacts it. Can easily just bend it out of the way.

Any garmin or cadence sensor contacting something?

[one60]

If its only happening in the big ring,
check that the FD limit screw is adjusted properly. The crank arm may catching the outside of the FD if its a hair too far off.

Given sound happens at 3 o'clock, this may be an incorrect guess but sometimes our ability to hear the noise at a certain place is misleading.

Good luck!

[OtayBW]

Here is what I have done so far:

New pedals
3 different pairs of shoes
Different skewers
Different rear wheel
Greased and retourqued bottom bracket
Tightened bolts on crank set
Tried different crankset and bottom bracket
Greased rear drop outs
Tightened headset
Tightened cassette
There is probably more, just can't think of it all now.

The only thing I haven't tried is replacing the chain.
Wow - have you swapped frames yet?
Seriously, try a stethoscope.....

[BobbyJones]

I'm glad I'm not the only one who has had this happen. Did feel silly when I realized what it was.

Something contacting the cable sticking out of the front derailleur? I sometimes get this when the cable is a bit long and my crank arm contacts it. Can easily just bend it out of the way

[merckx]

It's the end of the FD cable tickling the crank arm.

[LJohnny]

Something contacting the cable sticking out of the front derailleur? I sometimes get this when the cable is a bit long and my crank arm contacts it. Can easily just bend it out of the way.

Any garmin or cadence sensor contacting something?

It's the end of the FD cable tickling the crank arm.

I was going to post this as it happened to me. It was driving me nuts! Luckily for me I found it out before I had to go on all the options the OP has tried. Good luck, hopefully it is something simple

[Louis]

Instead of the shotgun approach where you randomly try stuff until the noise goes away, I still think rollers, and a buddy with these is the best solution:

http://www.diseno-art.com/images_2/mechanics_stethoscope.jpg

[OtayBW]

Instead of the shotgun approach where you randomly try stuff until the noise goes away, I still think rollers, and a buddy with these is the best solution:

http://www.diseno-art.com/images_2/mechanics_stethoscope.jpg
That's a great idea! :rolleyes:

[pbarry]

Instead of the shotgun approach where you randomly try stuff until the noise goes away, I still think rollers, and a buddy with these is the best solution:

http://www.diseno-art.com/images_2/mechanics_stethoscope.jpg
It's not widely known, but stethoscopes [used by a trained individual] can hear nuances in voice patterns and discern what a customer really wants/needs/can afford in a new car purchase. :hello:

[rustychisel]

It's not widely known, but stethoscopes [used by a trained individual] can hear nuances in voice patterns and discern what a customer really wants/needs/can afford in a new bike purchase. :hello:


FTFY. I see a new bike in Steve's future.

[SoCalSteve]

Something contacting the cable sticking out of the front derailleur? I sometimes get this when the cable is a bit long and my crank arm contacts it. Can easily just bend it out of the way.

Any garmin or cadence sensor contacting something?

It DI2... I checked the magnet and sensor, thanks!

[SoCalSteve]

Is the front derailleur braze-on or clamp?

What kind of headset does it have?


dave

Braze on...

Headset is Colnago ( came with the frameset). It's nice and tight.

[rustychisel]

Steve, your exhaustive list didn't mention front wheel. Remove, clean axle stubs and dropouts carefully, dab a little grease on stubs and reinstall.

While you're there make sure spokes are all good, not one ticking, and that dust caps are secure.

Headset & carbon fibre spacer? Clean etc, reinstall

Stem bolts, require regreasing after cleaning

Bottle cage bolts nice and snug?

[Steve in SLO]

It's probably just your knee.

[macaroon]

If no one has mentioned it yet - where is the cable for your front mech routed? Is it a carbon frame? Does the cable run through the frame? My guess is its the cable rubbing as it goes through the frame. Remove it and cover it with some of that plastic cable cover stuff, then set it back up.

[fade]

I had the exact same problem on my EPS and the cause of the noise was a cracked carbon bottle cage!!

[SoCalSteve]

If no one has mentioned it yet - where is the cable for your front mech routed? Is it a carbon frame? Does the cable run through the frame? My guess is its the cable rubbing as it goes through the frame. Remove it and cover it with some of that plastic cable cover stuff, then set it back up.

It's DI2

[tmf]

Have you checked it indoors on a trainer? I've had good luck tracking down some noises indoors vs out on the road. Your front wheel wouldn't be turning, so that would determine if that was a factor.

Speaking of front wheels, I had a similar noise once and it was a wheel magnet clipping the sensor on the fork under stronger efforts. The wheel was flexing just enough. I moved the magnet/sensor closer to the hub where there is less deflection.

[mktng]

Had an annoying clicking noise similar to this. Couldnt figure it out.
Took apart my rear hub. cleaned and regreased everything. put it all together making sure everything was nice and properly torqued. noise GONE !

was a zipp 188 rear hub. but im sure the problem can occur on any hub.
make sure everything is tightened/greased well

only suggesting rear hub because you've seem to have done everything else i did too haha

[Mikej]

Front wheel bearing preload or plumbers tape on pedal spindle threads or cleat mounting plate in shoe

[soulspinner]

Make sure your skewers are really snug/tight - this cured one of the clicks I had.

What type of tires? On Tubulars the valve stem can cause clicks as the wheel rotates. I cut a 1" piece of a straw then slit it open along the length and slip it around the valve stem and the rim. Eliminated valve stem clicks.

My rear skewer clicked so loudly it masked a second click in chainring bolts. Those springs on the skewers were sticking ....
Stem/bar interface or have you tried with hands wrenching on the bars while not moving?

[SoCalSteve]

Had an annoying clicking noise similar to this. Couldnt figure it out.
Took apart my rear hub. cleaned and regreased everything. put it all together making sure everything was nice and properly torqued. noise GONE !

was a zipp 188 rear hub. but im sure the problem can occur on any hub.
make sure everything is tightened/greased well

only suggesting rear hub because you've seem to have done everything else i did too haha

I tried 2 wheelset ( front and rear ) clicking happens on both...doesn't happen when wheels are on a different bike.

[SoCalSteve]

My rear skewer clicked so loudly it masked a second click in chainring bolts. Those springs on the skewers were sticking ....
Stem/bar interface or have you tried with hands wrenching on the bars while not moving?

Happens when I ride hands free...tried different skewers and also tried greasing them.

[SoCalSteve]

Is it possible it's just clicking because my tremendous strength is causing the frame to flex? .....:banana:

I'm really at a loss.

[mktng]

Frig I didnt see changed rear wheel.
Maybe both rear's are messed :) haha.
Disregard my suggestion then.

[mktng]

What if it is the frame :S ..
How does one go about's fixing that?

[David Kirk]

It seems unlikely because it happens when you ride no-handed but many BB noises are the fork crown race shifting on the fork.

Have you tried to make it happen 'in the lab'? By this I mean putting the front wheel against the wall and pressing on the pedal to see if you can get it to happen? You may have to go back and forth (right pedal then left and right again) to get it to happen but I'll bet that if you are crafty you can get it to make the noise.

If you can then finding it is simple but will take two people to make it quick and easy. One person pushes on the pedal to make 'it' happen and the other places their hand on various areas of the bike feeling for the noise. One will be able to feel it much more precisely than hear where it is coming from. I've never had this fail over the decades and it always gives up its secret...........and in most cases it is not in the the area where it sounded like it was coming from.

dave

[lhuerta]

It only happens when I turn the drive side pedal.

...what does this mean? When you turn your drive-side pedal the non-drive side pedal is turning too?

Have you checked the faces of your BB shell...if the clicking didn't go away with different BB's and cranks then it is possible that the shell faces may not be parallel leading to the creaking you describe.

Lou

[bambam]

bottle cages, Remove and try.

Try with regular sneekers to rule out cleat pedal contact.

Stemcap/headset spacers. Regrease or whatever.

Put one of those plasic circles from king headest between different spacer/stem.

Try a different stem?

Good luck.

[eddief]

maybe time to sell it really cheap to a new owner with better kharma.

[SBash]

Big Steve,

Maybe it's the nut behind the wheel:)

Ok, remove your seat post/saddle and do a quick ride standing just to eliminate this...I have seen this before in the bike biz even without weight on the saddle/post.

[aramis]

You have a trainer? If you have one or could borrow one and replicate the noise on that it might be a lot easier to narrow it down.

[SoCalSteve]

...what does this mean? When you turn your drive-side pedal the non-drive side pedal is turning too?

Have you checked the faces of your BB shell...if the clicking didn't go away with different BB's and cranks then it is possible that the shell faces may not be parallel leading to the creaking you describe.

Lou

When I clip out of the drive side pedal ( and only pedal with non ds) no noise.

[SoCalSteve]

Big Steve,

Maybe it's the nut behind the wheel:)

Ok, remove your seat post/saddle and do a quick ride standing just to eliminate this...I have seen this before in the bike biz even without weight on the saddle/post.

I haven't tried this... I will. Thanks!

[Lewis Moon]

When I clip out of the drive side pedal ( and only pedal with non ds) no noise.

If I'm late to the party, please ignore. Pedals? I know my speedplays make all sorts of noise sometimes.

[nicrump]

Steve, sounds like you have covered a lot. 3 things come to mind on a C50 that I have seen on carbon bikes.

1. The bolt holding the SS to the dropouts. Nag's are usually bonded in pretty good, never heard of one of theirs making noise but failing all else, worth a look. If you put a wrench on it and it moves, then it should be removed, cleaned and loctited back in at a good torque(15-20Nm).

2. Dropout beginning to let go from the stay(adhesion/cohesion failure). I repair these for locals all the time on various bikes.

3. And this one has been spotted on a few C50/C40s. Ti BB shell beginning to let go of the carbon shell(adhesion/cohesion failure). I've repaired a couple Nags with this one.

All 3 of these are very hard to detect until they really come apart.

Good luck!

[R2D2]

I had an annoying click on my 10's Campy set up. Never could figure out where it came from. It didn't happen every rotation though. Finally solved the mystery.

I was using a quick link called "Super Link" on my Campy 10 chain. Switched to a KMC link and never heard that sound again.

I had the exact same issue with the "Super Link". It was just a little too wide and would partially ride up the next cog on the cassette and then snap into position. Drove me crazy for a while.

[xlbs]

but have you checked the cleat screws on your shoes, or the plates to make sure that you don't have a cracked shoe? I don't see this listed anywhere. Also, sometimes a tiny bit of lubricant on the contact area where your cleat engages will eliminate a noise. I know you've used different pedals, but the cleat could be causing the problem. It could even be your left shoe, where you're just easing off on the back stroke and a small crack in the shoe could make a sound...grasping here, but no one else mentioned your shoes.

[cash05458]

It's probably just your knee.

lol!


you might try replacing that and see if it works...

[Clydesdale]

3. And this one has been spotted on a few C50/C40s. Ti BB shell beginning to let go of the carbon shell(adhesion/cohesion failure). I've repaired a couple Nags with this one.

Had a good friend who had this happen on a Look with an aluminum bb shell. The bond failed and he got constant and consistent creaking like you described. Not sure how you would check it?

[weiwentg]

I had the exact same issue with the "Super Link". It was just a little too wide and would partially ride up the next cog on the cassette and then snap into position. Drove me crazy for a while.

well, the OP stated he had no noise when clicked out of the DS pedal. so, it doesn't sound like it could be the chain. it sounds like it could be a BB shell problem, although that raises the question of why isn't there any noise at all when he's pedaling on the NDS side only.

[R2D2]

well, the OP stated he had no noise when clicked out of the DS pedal. so, it doesn't sound like it could be the chain. it sounds like it could be a BB shell problem, although that raises the question of why isn't there any noise at all when he's pedaling on the NDS side only.

I know. I was just responding to the poster with the super link. I wanted him to know he wasn't alone.

I can't figure out my own cracks, snapples and pops and the bike is right here.
You can use the car method, turn up the radio and pump up the jams!

[austex]

OP - resolution???

Inquiring minds want to know...

[SoCalSteve]

Yes, solved!!! The best I can figure out is that there was a DI2 wire rattling inside the bike (somewhere)...I pulled them all out, added more zip ties and re-threaded them...

Now its super-duper quiet!

But, in doing all this, I started riding my (one size larger) Serotta Ottrott and realized that the Colnago is just too small for me. I gave it a shot full well knowing that it may not work....and, even though its amazing beautiful, its just not the right size.

So, it will be for sale...frame-fork-headset and seatpost.

Thanks everyone for all your help!!!!

Steve

[DRZRM]

I know it's beyond my means, but how much are you asking?

[SoCalSteve]

I know it's beyond my means, but how much are you asking?

$3,000.00 shipped...1/2 retail. Absolutely mint.

[pbarry]

Yes, solved!!! The best I can figure out is that there was a DI2 wire rattling inside the bike (somewhere)...I pulled them all out, added more zip ties and re-threaded them...

Now its super-duper quiet!

But, in doing all this, I started riding my (one size larger) Serotta Ottrott and realized that the Colnago is just too small for me. I gave it a shot full well knowing that it may not work....and, even though its amazing beautiful, its just not the right size.

So, it will be for sale...frame-fork-headset and seatpost.

Thanks everyone for all your help!!!!

Steve

OMG, electronic shifting IS bad for you. Congrats on nailing your fit and figuring this out.