And another stupid question.

[akelman]

I'm afraid I have no experience with SRAM components, and I'm trying to remove a set of Red cranks. To extract these, should I be turning the binder bolt clockwise or counter-clockwise? Thanks in advance. And I apologize for the barrage of dumb questions.

[vav]

counter ;)

[vqdriver]

self extracting
lefty loosey

[akelman]

Groovy. Thanks, gents.

[akelman]

Aaaaaaaaaaand, I give up. I guess this is why The Market invented bike shops.

[vqdriver]

Make sure you're working on the correct bolt. One will remove the self extracting mechanism and the other is for installing uninstalling the arm. I think the one you want is 8mm? It gets crazy tight tho. I think I had to whack my hex handle with a rubber mallet

[akelman]

Make sure you're working on the correct bolt. One will remove the self extracting mechanism and the other is for installing uninstalling the arm. I think the one you want is 8mm? It gets crazy tight tho. I think I had to whack my hex handle with a rubber mallet

Huh, now you've undermined my (already shaky) confidence. That said, I've been working with an 8 mm wrench, so I'm pretty sure I'm on the right track. But as you say, it's insanely tight.

[vqdriver]

I gotta say. From a usability standpoint I really dislike this method of mounting and tightening cranks a la sram and campagnolo because u have to hold one crankarm while working the tool. I much prefer the side bolts of the hollowtech ii system.

[Peter B]

Huh, now you've undermined my (already shaky) confidence. That said, I've been working with an 8 mm wrench, so I'm pretty sure I'm on the right track. But as you say, it's insanely tight.

Ari,

The 8mm bolt holds the arm on and it is located 'behind' a much larger hexed 'ring'. That outer ring has been installed tight to the 8mm bolt. When you loosen the 8mm inner bolt it is backed into the 'ring' and as you continue to unscrew the bolt it forces the crankarm off. Just like old Dura...oh nevermind.

PS. Glad to see you're back in the game!

[akelman]

Ari,

The 8mm bolt holds the arm on and it is located 'behind' a much larger hexed 'ring'. That outer ring has been installed tight to the 8mm bolt. When you loosen the 8mm inner bolt it is backed into the 'ring' and as you continue to unscrew the bolt it forces the crankarm off. Just like old Dura...oh nevermind.

PS. Glad to see you're back in the game!

Thanks, Peter. Much appreciated.

[Peter B]

Now elucidate on the nuanced subjective shifting action lever feel of 2013 Chorus levers vs. the click & clack of my tried and true 10v.

[akelman]

Couldn't tell you. My hands don't like the new levers, so I stick with the old stuff. As you say, tried and true.

[oldpotatoe]

I'm afraid I have no experience with SRAM components, and I'm trying to remove a set of Red cranks. To extract these, should I be turning the binder bolt clockwise or counter-clockwise? Thanks in advance. And I apologize for the barrage of dumb questions.

No dumb questions.lefty-loosey.

[victoryfactory]

No dumb questions.lefty-loosey.

and don't forget the corollary which applies to BB shells:
Drive (side) is Jive (Left threaded)

VF

[Peter B]

and don't forget the corollary which applies to BB shells:
Drive (side) is Jive (Left threaded)

VF

Unless you're Italian. :)

[oldpotatoe]

Unless you're Italian. :)

Or French.

[vqdriver]

Unless you're Italian. :)

Or BBrighteous