Steel road bike with disc brakes

[kevinvc]

I want to buy a roadie that is comfortable for long rides (steel) and that I can push hard in wet conditions (disc brakes). I want it to handle well at all speeds (road frame).

I have seen three options that seem appealing: Volagi Viaje, Gunnar Fast Lane, and Salsa Colossus 2.

I have the Viaje now, but it's the wrong size frame and I'm probably going to have to sell it and start over, which gives me the opportunity to look at the other two. Does anyone have experience with these or other similar bikes?

[VA-Scooter]

Slightly different metal bit I have a Ti-Lynskey Cooper CX Disc. Does everything well. Will a switch of tires I can ride a century or go light duty off roading. With 700x32 Gran Bois I do both on the same ride. Really love this bike.

[slidey]

When reading your requirements from a bike, the Lemond Poprad pops to mind. Someone was selling one of them in the classifieds a brief while back, might still be available, i.e. if you want this.

[rwsaunders]

When reading your requirements from a bike, the Lemond Poprad pops to mind. Someone was selling one of them in the classifieds a brief while back, might still be available, i.e. if you want this.

Poprad disc for sure, as most have fender eyelets as well...ask me how I know.:cool:

[sparky33]

I want to buy a roadie that is comfortable for long rides (steel) and that I can push hard in wet conditions (disc brakes). I want it to handle well at all speeds (road frame).

I have seen three options that seem appealing: Volagi Viaje, Gunnar Fast Lane, and Salsa Colossus 2.

I have the Viaje now, but it's the wrong size frame and I'm probably going to have to sell it and start over, which gives me the opportunity to look at the other two. Does anyone have experience with these or other similar bikes?


The Gunnar HyperX might be zippier than the Fast Lane, and the geo is pretty close to road geo for a 'cross bike'.
Local guy has a HyperX and loves it.

[kevinvc]

What's going to be the biggest difference in handling between a cross bike and a road bike over a long (e.g. 100 mile) ride?

[christian]

The Gunnar Hyper X is, for all intents and purposes, a road bike. Due to the relatively higher trail, it will steer a little slower than a Pinarello Dogma, but with 25mm tires, it'll handle like a road bike. The bottom bracket is 5mm higher than the Fast Lane, too, but 70mm is still lower than a Spec Allez or Cannondale CAAD9.

For a gravel grinder/road bike, I'd probably get a Fast Lane over a Hyper X, but maybe just barely. In my case, where the bike gets used for 5-6 cx races per year, a few gravel events (D2R2, DeTour de CT), and training rides, I'd probably get the Hyper X. Frankly, I don't think you can go wrong with either. They'll both ride like an awesome steel bike.

[VA-Scooter]

What's going to be the biggest difference in handling between a cross bike and a road bike over a long (e.g. 100 mile) ride?

Most of the newer CX bikes feel like road bikes to me. Probably steer a bit slower & all but mine feels like a road bike with wider tires-Which is exactly what I wanted. I ride all the same rides that I did on my road bike. Mine has road gears & disc brakes-Those are the 2 things that I felt needed to be changed to make a CX bike an All Road bike. Paved road-Dirt road-Fire road. I have done several centuries & think the bike would do great in a Road race or a criterium. I know disc brakes are not legal for road events.

[kevinvc]

I'm really appreciative of all the good advice. I'm still a newb and this is helpful.

Aren't cross bikes usually quite a bit heavier than road bikes since they're built to handle rougher conditions? I know with a steel frame and disc brakes I'm already going to be over 20 lbs. but how much of a difference will the "purpose" of the bike make?

[VA-Scooter]

Frame is probably a bit heavier-Frame weight is only about 20% of total bike weight anyway. You can build a very light CX bike. I just do not worry about 2-4 pounds as I am not huge but I could lose 15-20 pounds if I was real serious. Real light wheels make a big difference-But they are very expensive & somewhat fragile. I did not want $3000 wheels to worry about-I am not racing. A high quality bike that weighs 21 pounds is just as enjoyable to ride as a 16 pounder. A bit slower on climbs but not enough to matter to me. My engine slows me down way more than all the other stuff.

[christian]

I had a steel road bike and a steel cross bike with a CF fork. The cross bike was ~2 lbs LIGHTER. Those two bikes will be within a few ounces of each other.

[kevinvc]

Wow, the geometry for the Hyper-X is super similar to the Fast Lane:
http://gunnarbikes.com/site/bikes/hyper-x/
http://gunnarbikes.com/site/bikes/fast-lane/

It's hard to see what noticeable difference there is between the two. Especially for someone with very little riding experience.

[christian]

Head tube is shorter on the Hyper X. Part of this is a factor of the slightly less bottom bracket drop, part of it is not. But the Fast Lane is going to have a slightly more upright position. It also uses a 405mm fork, instead of a 395mm fork.

The lower bottom bracket on the Fast Lane would theoretically make it slightly more stable in fast asphalt turns (though this might be offset by the higher position, depending on teh cyclist in question). The off-set here is that you'd be more likely to strike a pedal when racing a Fast Lane in a cx race or riding off road, but again, probably not a real issue.

The trail/front end geometry appears close enough to be a wash. They're both going to handle on the slow end of road bikes - will take a bit more effort to initiate a turn, but will hold their line well. Both should handle very well at lower speeds.

What size are you, generally? Because between the two, there's some really interesting stuff going on, sizewise, in the 56-58 sizes, based on changes to top tube lengths and seat tube angles.

Generally, I think you'd be able to tell the difference between them going from one to the other, but after 5 minutes, both would "handle like a good bike."

If my usage window were 80% "B" club rides, 20% gravel, I'd get the Fast Lane, if it were 20% CX, 30% gravel, 50% road or faster A rides, I'd get the Hyper X. A more upright fit or requirement for 35mm+ tires would also lean me toward the Fast Lane - it'll fit 40mm tires. For a "sportive" user, there's absolutely nothing about teh Hyper X that isn't "road-like" enough for it to be your only road bike.

But frankly, I'm sort of amazed they make both of these... If I were them, I'd make the Hyper X and call it a day.

You could also call Gunnar/Waterford and talk to them about usage. They're amazingly helpful.

I sort of want a Hyper X now.

[Anarchist]

Kona Rove

http://konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=rove

[christian]

Re: Kona Rove -- I don't think 65mm bb drop is ideal for a "road" bike. My oh-so-very-pure cx racer (no bottle bosses, no fender bosses) has ~70mm of drop and that feels awesome on the road and works perfectly racing cx.

[mistermo]

I'd offer another vote for a Poprad disc, but also the Salsa La Cruz could be a candidate. Has a 6.8cm BB drop vs. 7cm for Poprad.

[christian]

BTW, Salsa Colossal is a "pure" road bike. I don't think it will fit tires larger than 28mm. Also, it doesn't have fender mounts (world's dumbest product management decision). It has all the drawbacks of disks and none of the benefits, in my mind.

[spaced_ghost]

What's going to be the biggest difference in handling between a cross bike and a road bike over a long (e.g. 100 mile) ride?

I had a non-disc poprad for a couple years. for most of that time, I was commuting 40 miles a day. the Poprad was WAY more comfortable than either of my steel road bikes. The Platinum OX tubing is great. The geo is not cross-race enough for it to handle weird on the road. It is is a very stable, smooth, comfortable bike that is still quick. I took mine on a couple of centuries and it was great.

[kevinvc]

So here's where I'm coming from. I have a Cannondale CAAD 9, which was my first road bike ever. I love the way it handles, but after 40 miles I start to feel kind of beat up- my wrists, shoulders, neck and butt are sore. I can ride through it, I did the STP las year (200 miles in 2 days), but it's not comfortable. I want something that will feel good after a century on pavement, not get me dropped on a faster group ride and let me ride with confidence in wet sloppy conditions. I'll be riding 25 or 28 slick tires on it. I'll keep the 'dale for short fast rides, but limit it to that narrow set of conditions.

I have a little less than 100 miles on a steel Volagi and can definitely feel the difference after 40 miles on rough wet roads. It's enough to convince me that I want a steel frame and disc brakes. After that I'm pretty clueless. I've been looking at the rather limited options for a road bike that fits these requirements. If I open it up to cross bikes I'm going to have a few more available, which can be a good thing but also means a lot more difficulty deciding.

[EricEstlund]

If it's your first road bike and you have that particular laundry list of issues, I would suggest a good fit first.

A good road bike will be better suited for the roads then an in-between cross bike. Get a bike that suites your needs and tastes, and then worry about details like the brake type.

Happy hunting!

[slidey]

It shouldn't be enough!

As Eric suggested, you should seriously consider getting a good fit before deciding if you need to jump bike.

It's enough to convince me that I want a steel frame and disc brakes.

[Lanterne Rouge]

Hi - new here so feel free to ignore me.

I recently built up and subsequently sold a Civilian Le Roi Le Veut.

It started life as a SS cross bike with a steel frame and disc brakes. I added 105 parts and slight thinner rims and tires and Bob's your uncles and Fanny's your aunt I had exactly you you wanted.

I was somewhat inspired but the BMC Gran Fondo that I saw last year.

That build didn't really require much in the way on wrenching skill (aside from the wheels). The rear spacing was already 130mm, the hub was ready to take a cassette and there was a hanger on the sliding dropouts.

I pick 105 because it comes with the reducer shim for the narrow guage steel frame and lets be honest 105 is enough groupset for most of us.

[HillDancer]

...I have a Cannondale CAAD 9...after 40 miles I start to feel kind of beat up- my wrists, shoulders, neck and butt are sore...I did the STP las year (200 miles in 2 days), but it's not comfortable. I want something that will feel good after a century on pavement, not get me dropped on a faster group ride...I have a little less than 100 miles on a steel Volagi...It's enough to convince me that I want a steel frame and disc brakes...
Consider a Thudbuster ST seatpost, gel cork tape, gel padded gloves, and a carbon handlebar for the CAAD.

Looking for a bike that will make you feel good after riding a 100 miles in one day? Good luck with that search.

A bike frame alone won't get you dropped, but your fitness level will.

I understand the Volagi frame may be too small; but why not consider the same frame in a larger size? Is there something else about the frame that doesn't fit your wants & needs?

I have disc brakes on my cyclocross/commuter frame used as a road bike. I have very wide 650B rims with 42mm nominal (47mm actual) width tires @37psi. These tires at low air pressure go a long way toward providing rider comfort. The same frame with 700C 28mm tires was quite harsh on rough road. With 32mm tires it was a bit better comfort wise, but sucked climbing, because of 32's larger diameter, and that particular tire's squishy side wall mounted on a moderate width rim.

From my cyclocross frame conversion experience, the rim & tire had more impact on comfort and handling than frame geometry. Granted this frame is very stiff on the vertical plane to begin with, and mounting a lower profile wheel altered trail somewhat.

[sparky33]

I want to buy a roadie that is comfortable for long rides (steel) and that I can push hard in wet conditions (disc brakes). I want it to handle well at all speeds (road frame).

I have seen three options that seem appealing: Volagi Viaje, Gunnar Fast Lane, and Salsa Colossus 2.

I have the Viaje now, but it's the wrong size frame and I'm probably going to have to sell it and start over, which gives me the opportunity to look at the other two. Does anyone have experience with these or other similar bikes?

btw how is the Viaje, aside from it fitting poorly?

[bikerboy337]

agree with the fit comment... only say this as I had a caad9, ran with good wheels (velocity a23s and 25c tires) and it was as comfortable as my steel ted Wocjik for long rides...

I'm wondering if many of your issues are due to fit, seeing your other post about your current bike, seems like you dont have a good idea of what fit you should be on...

in my opinion, fit will be the biggest thing for you....until you get that dialed in, i think you'll continue to have similar issues, no matter what bike...

[etu]

any of these have enough clearance to change to 650b's later on?
changed my Ti disc road bike from 700x28 to 650bx38. cushy but fast, great traction with all that rubber. it's awesome.

[1/2 Wheeler]

So here's where I'm coming from. I have a Cannondale CAAD 9, which was my first road bike ever. I love the way it handles, but after 40 miles I start to feel kind of beat up- my wrists, shoulders, neck and butt are sore. I can ride through it, I did the STP las year (200 miles in 2 days), but it's not comfortable. I want something that will feel good after a century on pavement, not get me dropped on a faster group ride and let me ride with confidence in wet sloppy conditions. I'll be riding 25 or 28 slick tires on it. I'll keep the 'dale for short fast rides, but limit it to that narrow set of conditions.

I have a little less than 100 miles on a steel Volagi and can definitely feel the difference after 40 miles on rough wet roads. It's enough to convince me that I want a steel frame and disc brakes. After that I'm pretty clueless. I've been looking at the rather limited options for a road bike that fits these requirements. If I open it up to cross bikes I'm going to have a few more available, which can be a good thing but also means a lot more difficulty deciding.

There is no reason a CAAD 9 should leave you feeling beaten. I would guess you are sub 180 lbs and are running you tires plus 120 psi?

Not that there is anything wrong with wanting another bike.

[etu]

you are right
you can really get spoiled after riding on 50/55 psi setup

[kevinvc]

Worse than I thought. I took my Cannondale to my bike fitter who helped with the Volagi. The CAAD is the first road bike I've ever owned so it's really my only point of reference. It turns out it's too big for me as well. It's a true 58 frame and again, no amount of tinkering or fitting is going to make it work. So it looks like all of my issues that first made me want the Volagi are at least partially related to the fact that I've never ridden a proper sized bike in my adult life. My mountain bike measures at a bit over 58 so that's not right either, but I'm not ready to start worrying over that yet.

Talk about starting at square one! At least now that I've done the fitting that I should have had 3 years ago when I first started riding, I know what to look for in the future. I'm not going to be able to replace everything at once so I'm going to have to be strategic in what I do first. Most of my riding is pavement so I need a good performing road bike for group rides but one that I can also do 60 - 100 miles and not feel beat up. I've got all the basic decisions to deal with now: steel or aluminum, discs or cantis, "pure" road or multi-use. Ugh, I wish I had done this right the first time.

[dlui]

I'll be checking on the Redline Metro Classic myself, Cro-Mo frame and disc brakes, 135 rear spacing as well

http://www.redlinebicycles.com/bikes/commute/2013-metro-classic

[sand fungus]

I was in the same boat at the begining of the year and I looked at all of those bikes (Gunnar, Kona, Redline etc.). But I wanted a full 105 tripple group and BB7 brakes with a carbon fork. I ended up getting a full custom Curtlo for roughly the same price as I was quoted for a Gunnar Fastlane, with a better set of wheels. See my post in the custom bike section. It took a lot longer to get, but I got what I wanted exactly.

I agree with everyone else the first thing to do is get a fit that works on a really inexpensive used bike. Then look for something that you are going to spend a lot of money on.

[kevinvc]

I went with the advice I got from a lot of folks and bought a "low-end" Soma ES in the right size. I put it in quotes because the price was higher than my Globe-riding wife considers appropriate for a bike :)

I can't believe how much more comfortable, stable and responsive it is compared to anything else I've ridden. I'm pretty confident that it's largely because of the fit; I'm not having to use a 80mm stem, slam the seat forward and still be stretched out. I've done a couple of 80 mile rides and came off feeling tired, but not beat up. The wrist and shoulder pain was not there at all. I also found that I'm descending at a faster speed than ever before because I feel comfortable enough not to be riding the brakes. Roads where I used to not let myself go above 27mph or so I'm now doing at 35.

Maybe in a couple of years I'll have a better idea of my natural ride position and can look for a higher end bike with more specific geometry and better components, but for now I'm just loving riding without hurting.

[spdcyclist]

I wound up taking my spec sheet from my fitting for a Serrota and finding the closest production cross bike I could find. My requirements were steel frame, disc brakes, and 105's. Here is what I'm riding to work...

http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=129493

It's heavy, but its fun!

Dan

[KidWok]

Soma makes some great budget oriented bikes...the ES is a good choice.

I didn't see this thread the first time around or would have suggested the Soma Double cross disc. I got one and had the unnecessary braze on's ground off, then got it powder coated. Have ridden it as a road bike/commuter for a few years now.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c151/TaiLee77/2011-07-08140209.jpg

Tai

[stev0]

casting one more vote for the poprad disc. spent tons of time on one with 25 tires through all kinds of weather and terrain. lots of miles. always comfortable. loved it.