Talk to me about removing tubular glue from carbon rim

[rinconryder]

Any pointers? And how necessary is it to clean the rim before mounting a new tubular? Thanks!

[DRietz]

Knock off the big stuff. I use a butter knife to get the really big, dried stuff off.

Once the big stuff is off, just spread the new glue over the old (assuming you're using the same type of glue). I like to spread with a modified tooth brush that I have sitting in acetone between each section of the wheel. Makes it so I get a few super thin layers of glue as opposed to the thicker layers that result from harder-to-spread glue.

[Jaq]

Call or email your rim manufacturer, ask them what solvents are useable.

Use those solvents.

[ultraman6970]

When you put the new glue in, that new coat will kind'a melt the previous dry coats and those will get sticky again.

You can use kerosene or any type of solvent like that, goo off for example but no idea how goo off will react with the rim sorry.

I wouldn't clean the rim, nothing will happen unless you got the bad idea of use 1 full tube of glue per rim rim and in that case is clear why you want to clean the rims :D

[Liv2RideHard]

If you must remove all the glue...

Use a hair dryer to soften the glue and once a small section is soft, use a soft rag with goof off to remove. Will still take some elbow grease but the warm air from the hair dryer will help loosen it. Wear gloves and make sure you do it where it is well ventilated.

[dd74]

Acetone and a clean rag. Remove what you can, especially the big chunks. A perfectly clean rim isn't necessary. You can start the new glue once finished removing the old glue.

[shovelhd]

I want the rim to be squeaky clean, because you never really know how well that glob of glue you left is stuck to the rim. I don't want to find out the hard way.

I use Goo-Gone and a brass bristle brush. Soak a rag with Goo-gone and work it into the glue. Use the brush to spread it around and turn it into a gooey slime. Then use the Goo-gone rag to wipe off the glue. It may take 2-3 passes. Once it is fairly clean I use a fresh rag with acetone for the final cleaning and prep for new glue.

[oldpotatoe]

Knock off the big stuff. I use a butter knife to get the really big, dried stuff off.

Once the big stuff is off, just spread the new glue over the old (assuming you're using the same type of glue).

What he said, if a LOT of buildup, 3M glue remover and a green scotchbrite pad and lots of time, outside, well venilated, with gloves.

[BSUdude]

Knock off the big stuff. I use a butter knife to get the really big, dried stuff off.

Once the big stuff is off, just spread the new glue over the old (assuming you're using the same type of glue). I like to spread with a modified tooth brush that I have sitting in acetone between each section of the wheel. Makes it so I get a few super thin layers of glue as opposed to the thicker layers that result from harder-to-spread glue.

You can use the scraping method in conjunction with applying a heavier coating of glue on low spots and a thinner layer on high spots to help even out an old glue job.

If the old glue is visibly dirty (ie black or gray) then I would definitely try to get rid of those areas because the bond will be inferior to untainted glue.

But you also have to be careful using chemicals to remove old glue from rims. If this is done you really really really (REALLY!) need to be sure you get all of the chemical off the rim before putting ANY new glue on. You don't want to find out on a downhill switchback at speed that you forgot to get all of the chemical off your rim when your tire rolls off. That's why I generally will leave at least some to most of the glue on depending on its condition.

New glue will re-activate the old glue and make it tacky again, too.

[christian]

Ok, this is the part where the thread gets crazy.

Here's what I do for aluminum rims. Before you try this with carbon rims, MAKE SURE THE MANUFACTURER SAYS ACETONE IS OK.

I put the wheel in a truing stand. Below that and in line with the wheel I place a narrow rectangular tub with some strategic cut outs on the top edge. I fill this about 1.5" with acetone. I place some playing cards in the spokes (~10). I adjust the truing stand so that the wheel runs through the tub slots, into the tub, and with the rim bed just dipping into the acetone.

I turn on a Vornado floor fan to high. The wheel rotates. I return after ~4 hours. I scrape off any soft remnants of glue. There usually aren't any. Then wipe down with alcohol. Then clean with water.

Just did this on Saturday for a pair of Reflex wheels where I pulled the cx tires and needed to mount road tires. I use the Belgian-tape/Zanc method on cx tires, so I needed to really get the bases cleaned off.

[Lewis Moon]

Acetone and a clean rag. Remove what you can, especially the big chunks. A perfectly clean rim isn't necessary. You can start the new glue once finished removing the old glue.

Oldschool wisdom. Did it this way back in the '70s.

[djdj]

I've used a screwdriver. Push nearly parallel to the rim bed surface and you won't scratch the carbon rim. No chemicals involved (except the beer).:beer:

[cmg]

Acetone and a Citrus Enzyme Cleaner, scour pad, several of them. If you don't catch a buzz from the Acetone you'll get sick from sniffing the citrus. Open the windows, turn on a fan and expect to spend an hour per wheel.

[christian]

If you want to scrape with a sharp implement, a butter knife works better than a screwdriver:

http://www.purposelaunch.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/butter-knife.jpg

[redir]

When you put the new glue in, that new coat will kind'a melt the previous dry coats and those will get sticky again.

You can use kerosene or any type of solvent like that, goo off for example but no idea how goo off will react with the rim sorry.

I wouldn't clean the rim, nothing will happen unless you got the bad idea of use 1 full tube of glue per rim rim and in that case is clear why you want to clean the rims :D

I use Goof Off too, wonderful stuff. I never tied softening it fist though. Good tip,

[rinconryder]

great advice everyone. thank you. Next question. What do you carry with you when riding? A fresh spare tubular or something else like pit stop. I flatted this weekend and didn't have anything on me because I have never really had an issue with a tubular. I think it was a piece of glass cause it made a small slice into the tire and tube lost air within a matter of 20 seconds or so.

How good is pit stop or another similar type of repair?

[cmg]

spare tubie tire and really strong thick wheel levers. Haven't had a flat yet so no horror stories to tell. The last tire i peeled to replace took about 30 minutes, lots of cussing.

[djdj]

I carry PitStop or two, and a cell phone to call the team car (i.e., my wife). In my experience, PitStop does not always work. Those that are more self-sufficient, or doomsday preppers, will carry a spare tubular and co2/pump. And you may need a tire lever to get the removal started.

[oldpotatoe]

great advice everyone. thank you. Next question. What do you carry with you when riding? A fresh spare tubular or something else like pit stop. I flatted this weekend and didn't have anything on me because I have never really had an issue with a tubular. I think it was a piece of glass cause it made a small slice into the tire and tube lost air within a matter of 20 seconds or so.

How good is pit stop or another similar type of repair?

Preglued spare ideally lashed under your seat with a Campagnolo or Binda toe strap..white preferred.

BUT preglued spare under your saddle. Pit stop works as long as the hole isn't too big.

[christian]

Preglued spare under my seat. Christophe toe strap, so points off for that. I use one of the cheap A. Muzi spares. They fold small and work well. I can pull a road tubular by hand or with the little mini levers on my multi-tool.

Sometimes I use two spares if I am going >80 miles in uncharted waters.

Pitstop is fine for small punctures, but will not seal a cut. I don't carry it.

[dd74]

Preglued spare under my seat. Christophe toe strap, so points off for that. I use one of the cheap A. Muzi spares. They fold small and work well. I can pull a road tubular by hand or with the little mini levers on my multi-tool.

Sometimes I use two spares if I am going >80 miles in uncharted waters.

Pitstop is fine for small punctures, but will not seal a cut. I don't carry it.
So do you carry the second tubie in your jersey? Do you carry the multi-tool in your jersey as well along with CO2 cans? Which multi-tool do you use, btw?

[christian]

If I carry a second spare, I carry it in my center back pocket. It is taped or banded to a Lezyne Road Drive (medium). I do not carry CO2. My multitool is a Topeak Hexus II (though I don't think it was called that when I bought it many years ago).

Depending on whether I bring a 2nd spare, my pockets are filled with:
Left: Iphone
Middle: Wallet/Pump
Right: Multi-tool

or

Left: Iphone
Middle: Pump/Spare tubular (taped or banded together)
Right: Multi-tool/Wallet

This keeps the multi-tool and pump apart so they don't ding each other. (And not that you asked, but if I need to remove a vest, the wallet goes in with the phone and the vest and the multi-tool hang out.)

[rinconryder]

Where does your food go???!!!!

If I carry a second spare, I carry it in my center back pocket. It is taped or banded to a Lezyne Road Drive (medium). I do not carry CO2. My multitool is a Topeak Hexus II (though I don't think it was called that when I bought it many years ago).

Depending on whether I bring a 2nd spare, my pockets are filled with:
Left: Iphone
Middle: Wallet/Pump
Right: Multi-tool

or

Left: Iphone
Middle: Pump/Spare tubular (taped or banded together)
Right: Multi-tool/Wallet

This keeps the multi-tool and pump apart so they don't ding each other. (And not that you asked, but if I need to remove a vest, the wallet goes in with the phone and the vest and the multi-tool hang out.)

[christian]

Put a couple powerbars or gels in the phone pocket. Even in the Pioneer Valley you are never more than ~30 miles from a sandwich or farmstand. The east is littered with people and places to eat.

[happycampyer]

Put a couple powerbars or gels in the phone pocket. Even in the Pioneer Valley you are never more than ~30 miles from a sandwich or farmstand. The east is littered with people and places to eat.i'm going to start calling you the Cannibal... ;)

[shovelhd]

My tubulars are race-only wheels. I train on clinchers.

[christian]

i'm going to start calling you the Cannibal... ;)

Yeah, that was an awkward construction. I thought that immediately after hitting "Submit." But I didn't think anyone would call me on it.

[cfox]

Yeah, that was an awkward construction. I thought that immediately after hitting "Submit." But I didn't think anyone would call me on it.

I keep going back to the 4 hour acetone windmill bath. That is simultaneously crazy and clever.

[christian]

You need a wind-protected outside area to it. It vents a substantial amount of solvent. I use a drafty garden shed.

[oldpotatoe]

So do you carry the second tubie in your jersey? Do you carry the multi-tool in your jersey as well along with CO2 cans? Which multi-tool do you use, btw?

I dont carry any tools except for a metal tire lever wrapped up in the tubular, along with $5, all in a sock-lashed to the underside of the saddle. In the AM, when I gotta get to work, I carry another tire in a cutoff waterbottle in the bottle cage. I carry a full sized pump, no tools, keys, cellphone.

[djg]

great advice everyone. thank you. Next question. What do you carry with you when riding? A fresh spare tubular or something else like pit stop. I flatted this weekend and didn't have anything on me because I have never really had an issue with a tubular. I think it was a piece of glass cause it made a small slice into the tire and tube lost air within a matter of 20 seconds or so.

How good is pit stop or another similar type of repair?

Doesn't hurt to carry pit stop and a spare. The pit stop is good stuff . . . when it is. Small punctures can be taken care of quickly and easily. When the stars line up correctly you don't just make it home, you've repaired a tire in 60 seconds. But for other types of damage -- a larger cut, say -- it just doesn't cut it. If you see a torn sidewall of any significance, for instance, you'd best save the can for another day. You can get both the tire and the can under the seat -- some just fold and strap the tire down there; some like the retro tube sock; I like the idea of keeping road crp off the tire and something like this holds a spare tubular tire, plus a can of pit stop (plus maybe a cell phone, depending on the cell phone): http://www.jandd.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=FTBII

[ultraman6970]

Put the tubular in the second water bottle cage and problem solved :P

[Liv2RideHard]

I carry my pre-glued spare under my saddle...folded very tight and neat...and secured with a toe strap (white of course).

Another tip...if you ride deep wheels, buy an extra valve extender and have it pre-installed on your spare. Will save you time if you should flat.

I do not carry pit stop. Just CO2 and a Lezyne chuck. Minimalist is my objective. I race and train on sew ups.

[tmf]

I like the idea of keeping road crp off the tire and something like this holds a spare tubular tire, plus a can of pit stop (plus maybe a cell phone, depending on the cell phone): http://www.jandd.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=FTBII

That is exactly what I use (the Jandd bag). I have two spare tires in there, a small bottle of Stans, and a multi-wrench. I know it doesn't look as good as a spare secured by the proper toe strap, but practicality wins out since most of my rides are out in the farmlands, and calling my wife to get me more than once would probably start to limit my riding time. My goal is to be self-sustaining. I also use a frame-fit pump instead of CO2. I'm basically old school - doing the same thing for the past 30 years (except for the Stans).

For getting tires off, I also carry a small screwdriver in the bag. I use the blade to pry up the tire at a spoke hole, then keep prying until I can fit the whole screwdriver blade through at that point (easier since half the width is the spoke hole). Then I alternate wiggling the blade up and down, and rolling the screwdriver into the glued section to get the tire off. I can have the tire off in probably 5 minutes or less, and the spare back on and ready to go in another 2.