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sfscott
03-11-2013, 12:02 PM
I am getting tired of paying the LBS a lot for gluing on tubulars.

I have always been preferential to glue rather than tape, but as I look at the time and cost of gluing, tape is looking like a better option---don't want to buy a truing stand, etc.

Question: leaving aside the tape vs. glue discussion, how much practice and trial and error does it require to be able to glue tubular and mount them correctly. I'm interested in trying (great YouTube video from Zipp) but I do not want to mess up nice carbon rims and some new Veloflex tires.

I don't have extra wheels to practice on and as I said do not want to buy a truing stand.

Obviously, since it is important, I don't want to screw up and roll a tire or mount it with a hop.

Suggestions?

jamaris
03-11-2013, 12:09 PM
Question: leaving aside the tape vs. glue discussion, how much practice and trial and error does it require to be able to glue tubular and mount them correctly. I'm interested in trying (great YouTube video from Zipp) but I do not want to mess up nice carbon rims and some new Veloflex tires.

I don't have extra wheels to practice on and as I said do not want to buy a truing stand.

Obviously, since it is important, I don't want to screw up and roll a tire or mount it with a hop.

Suggestions?

Are you doing carbon and veloflex for your first diy?

sfscott
03-11-2013, 12:11 PM
That was the plan. Only have one wheel set.

cmg
03-11-2013, 12:17 PM
if your gluing then after the required coats and you intially inflate tire to 20-40psi you have about 10 mins to align the tire in it's final position.

if your taping them take all the time you want before you pull the strip that exposes the glue side to the tire.

took me about 2 tries with both tape and glue before i got confortable with both methods. You don't need a trueing stand a trainer works the same. If you have a spare fork make a wheelstand with a pvc spacer and wood.

christian
03-11-2013, 12:23 PM
You don't need a truing stand, though I suppose it makes gluing the rim bed 5% easier.

I read the online tutorials, got some flux brushes and went at it. I think I laid it on thicker than necessary for the first few sets - the key is simply to have nice even edge to edge coverage. But surely someone in San Francisco can show you the black art.

I'd pay your mechanic one last time, and bring a sixer, and ask him to supervise you the first time.

christian
03-11-2013, 12:24 PM
BTW, I feel more comfortable riding my own glued tires - I know how many coats I put on, how even the glue is, how my edge coverage is. And I don't rush to finish the job.

jamaris
03-11-2013, 12:27 PM
I was in a similar situation when I first started gluing my own tires. Basically you have to accept a few things...not being perfectly straight (there is no such thing), maybe having a light bump--but very very negligible and usually near the valve stem.

To help with the straight-ness, many use the base tape as a general guide and/or put the wheel in the drop outs.

For the bump, after you glue it up and are content with it, BEFORE you pump it up to 150 PSI or whatever,wrap the valve stem with electrical tape to help with the bump.

Ideally if you can have a buddy who is proficient with tubulars watch you do it, that's great, but definitely have someone check your work afterwards.

Worst worst case scenario is pulling the tire and doing it again, which isnt that big of a deal.

Eventually it gets easier. Much easier.

fuzzalow
03-11-2013, 12:50 PM
For basic consumables like tires, tube (clinchers and handlebar tape, always better and more economical to DIY.

For tubulars:

a) Pre-stretch the tubular tire on the rim before mounting. When you mount the tire to stretch it will be tight but all you have to do is get it on the rim. Pump up to full pressure and let sit for a day.

b) When you mount the tire be sure to pull it tight at the top by the valve at 12 o'clock so it doesn't bunch bump out of round in that spot.

c) Mount the tire so the casing is straight. Not by evenness of the basetape and not by evenness of the thread. A good Veloflex will be even in all 3, but a less quality tire might not.

d) Use glue, not tape. 1 layer on rim, 1 layer on tire base tape. Let dry. 1 thin layer on rim, mount tire. No need to hurry, there is time.

carpediemracing
03-11-2013, 12:54 PM
http://sprinterdellacasa.blogspot.com/2009/04/how-to-glue-tubular.html

I can do it without the truing stand but then I couldn't take pictures.

Add'l tips in comments. One is using blue painters tape on the braking surface. I never tried it but it sounds like it would work.

nrs5000
03-11-2013, 12:54 PM
Buy a used alloy tubular rim off ebay or the like for stretching and practicing fiddling around with tire placement.

ultraman6970
03-11-2013, 12:55 PM
Dont put like half of the tube of glue in the rim and half in the tubular, that you have more glue doesnt mean you will have a better bonding, besides you increase the chances to have glue everywhere.

Look a lot of videos, not rocket science but a lot of common sense. We have gone over this subject so many times that the only thing you have to do is go to you tube or search here.

Good luck.

sfscott
03-11-2013, 12:56 PM
Thanks everyone.

What do you mean by bumps near the valve? Was the suggestion to pull the valve down hard to seat it?

One other question, when and how to install valve extenders?

fuzzalow
03-11-2013, 01:12 PM
What do you mean by bumps near the valve? Was the suggestion to pull the valve down hard to seat it?

One other question, when and how to install valve extenders?

No the valve just slips into rim so no need to force.

Common mistake is it is easy to stretch the tire on the rim at 9 & 3 o'clock because there you can put your body weight into stretching the tire on the rim as you work downwards towards 6 o'clock. Can leave a high spot with the tire near the valve because it wasn't stretched as tight where you couldn't apply leverage. Gotta use plain 'ol arm strength to stretch tire outwards before down.

Valve extenders installed before mounting because you need access to valve threads to wrap teflon tape.

giverdada
03-11-2013, 01:18 PM
and electrical tape works better on the brake surface than painter's tape. it pulls off smooth and easy, in one piece, usually not leaving adhesive behind.

aoe
03-11-2013, 01:30 PM
^^What Christian said. It's actually incredibly simple and more about taking your time than any special tools or tricks. A truing stand is definitely not necessary. Park stand makes a inexpensive adapter for their mechanic stands ( http://www.treefortbikes.com/product/333222373190/675/Park-Tool-TS-25-Repair-Mounted.html?gclid=CLCytYqz9bUCFchaMgodRVAAyg).

If you really feel like you need something like a truing stand take an old fork and clamp it upside down in a vice.

Also, I've never needed to tape the brake surfaces...although I am undefeated in that board game, Operation.

gavingould
03-11-2013, 02:27 PM
i follow this, pretty much to a T (http://www.embrocationmagazine.com/online/how-to-gluing-cx-tubulars)

though i suppose with road tires it's a little more critical to have it on there bone straight with a minimum of lumps. i don't have a truing stand, syringes, or the fancy Belgian gluing tape - just some flux brushes and electrical tape. honestly i think one of the more important parts is near the end, with the broomstick.

prefer to glue my own as paying the shop is pricey, and i like to be able to blame myself for mechanical problems.

oldpotatoe
03-12-2013, 07:35 AM
i follow this, pretty much to a T (http://www.embrocationmagazine.com/online/how-to-gluing-cx-tubulars)

though i suppose with road tires it's a little more critical to have it on there bone straight with a minimum of lumps. i don't have a truing stand, syringes, or the fancy Belgian gluing tape - just some flux brushes and electrical tape. honestly i think one of the more important parts is near the end, with the broomstick.

prefer to glue my own as paying the shop is pricey, and i like to be able to blame myself for mechanical problems.

IMHO-glue and tape not required, even for cross tires//

Stretch the tire.

Lay tire out after stretched. Pump up a wee bit, turns 90 degrees.

Clean rim and tire with acetone.

Solvent brush and can of tubie glue(I prefer panaracer-Vittoria number 2). No need to tape the sidewalls of the rim.

Thin coat on the tire, thin coat on the rim, immediately, another coat on the tire, another on the rim..another on the tire.

WAIT until the glue isn't sticky to the touch on the tire, then thin coat on the rim..mount immediately, center, roll the tire, particularly at the valve, on the floor,add few PSI, let dry 24 hours.

Any time I glue I invite the customer to watch to learn. I don't mind gluing on tubies($45 per + glue) but I'll teach anybody..Not hard at all.

shovelhd
03-12-2013, 07:41 AM
That is exactly how I do it except I use Mastik One. Acetone for rim cleanup after gluing, Goo-Gone and a brass brush for cleanup for remounting.

Liv2RideHard
03-12-2013, 08:25 AM
IMHO-glue and tape not required, even for cross tires//

Stretch the tire.

Lay tire out after stretched. Pump up a wee bit, turns 90 degrees.

Clean rim and tire with acetone.

Solvent brush and can of tubie glue(I prefer panaracer-Vittoria number 2). No need to tape the sidewalls of the rim.

Thin coat on the tire, thin coat on the rim, immediately, another coat on the tire, another on the rim..another on the tire.

WAIT until the glue isn't sticky to the touch on the tire, then thin coat on the rim..mount immediately, center, roll the tire, particularly at the valve, on the floor,add few PSI, let dry 24 hours.

Any time I glue I invite the customer to watch to learn. I don't mind gluing on tubies($45 per + glue) but I'll teach anybody..Not hard at all.

This is my process exactly...except I ALWAYS have a beer open and within reach.

Get a couple of clean rims for stretching like everyone has said. Will make you life easier.

Clean your tubular rim if it has never seen glue and remove anything that could inhibit adhesion.

Flux brushes...get them at Home Depot or Lowes. I always trim mine with scissors so they are slightly rounded and it makes them a little stiffer. Less messy.

If you take your time, and don't drink too much beer...you won't make a mess. If you do get a little glue on your rim, easy to remove with a little acetone and elbow grease.

You do not need a stand. I do not use one. Do what Peter said above. After all glue has been applied, spin and eyeball evenness. If you see a wave/bump then lift with your thumbs and seat it. You may have to do this 5 or 6 times. Once straight, add a few more psi, roll the tire on the floor as this will also help center it.

It is not rocket science. You can do it. Give it a go.

shovelhd
03-12-2013, 09:37 AM
I would love to pick up a few used tubular rims on the cheap for tire stretching, but they are really hard to find.

christian
03-12-2013, 09:51 AM
Don't repeat it, but I used clincher rims before I found some tubular stretching rims. Worked fine and it doesn't seem to do any harm to the tubular at all.

cua90
03-12-2013, 10:49 AM
Clean rim and tire with acetone.



Interesting. I would not have thought to put acetone on the base tape but this could resolve a problem I am currently having with a Conti Sprinter not adhering the way I want. How robust against acetone is the bond between the base tape and carcass? I'm not thinking of really getting it wet, but more asking advice on how much care to take.

nrs5000
03-12-2013, 11:09 AM
Beer is a good accompaniment to glue but go easy or you'll do like me and put the tire label on the non drive side of your rear wheel.

oldpotatoe
03-12-2013, 11:26 AM
Interesting. I would not have thought to put acetone on the base tape but this could resolve a problem I am currently having with a Conti Sprinter not adhering the way I want. How robust against acetone is the bond between the base tape and carcass? I'm not thinking of really getting it wet, but more asking advice on how much care to take.

Mot soaking it. wee bit on the rag, wipe it down. I also will use emory paper to ruff up new rims, tires, then wipe.

If it's not adhering, something on the rim, I suspect.

sfscott
03-12-2013, 03:11 PM
Any thoughts on using sealant? I never have. If so, do before or after mounting.

oldpotatoe
03-12-2013, 03:31 PM
Any thoughts on using sealant? I never have. If so, do before or after mounting.

I use Stan's in all my tubies, even the ones with latex tubes..no big deal and it DOES prevent flats.

christian
03-12-2013, 03:32 PM
I don't find my Contis need it, but I have no major aversion to it either. I use it on my racing bike and use Stans when I do.

Definitely after mounting.

svelocity
04-10-2013, 03:45 PM
I'm regluing a pair of tubulars I bought recently. I believe the original owner told me he used Continental glue but I'm wondering if I may use any type for the reglue?

I ask because I have some Vittoria Mastik :)

Apologies if this has been answered already but I could find it when reading through all the posts on this thread and others.

Thanks!

oldpotatoe
04-10-2013, 06:18 PM
I'm regluing a pair of tubulars I bought recently. I believe the original owner told me he used Continental glue but I'm wondering if I may use any type for the reglue?

I ask because I have some Vittoria Mastik :)

Apologies if this has been answered already but I could find it when reading through all the posts on this thread and others.

Thanks!

Mix away, it's all just contact cement.

svelocity
04-11-2013, 01:42 PM
Mix away, it's all just contact cement.

Thanks!

shovelhd
04-11-2013, 01:54 PM
I wouldn't mix red Tubasti with anything else, but they probably don't sell that stuff anymore.

EDS
04-11-2013, 02:37 PM
Recently purchased my first set of tubulars. Down the rabbit hole I go.

I think my biggest issue is going to be where I do all the cleaning and gluing as I am a lowly apartment dweller (living with an understanding wife - but she has limits - and a very curious two year old).

MilanoTom
04-11-2013, 03:30 PM
I use Stan's in all my tubies, even the ones with latex tubes..no big deal and it DOES prevent flats.

If you're lucky, it does. I wasn't.

Regards,
Tom