Rear cassette advise for standard road double cranks and heavy rider

[Erik_A]

What rear cassette do you recommend for standard 53/39 double cranks and a heavy (out of shape) rider? I am 220 lbs. My new "used" road bike is 9-speed Ultegra. I bought a long cage Ultegra rear derailleur and a Shimano XT 11-32 9-speed cassette to help me on the hills until I get in shape and loose some weight. Even after my LBS adjusted the RD it makes a bad noise in the 32t rear cog. I wonder if a12-27, 11-28, or 11-30 cassette would solve the problem.

The only other thing I can think of, is that I have an "upgraded" Dura-Ace" pulley on the RD that may be causing the noise. Maybe if I put the cheaper pulley back on it will help with the noise.

[Erik_A]

no the derailleur and chain aren't touching the spokes, the noise is coming from the pulley but only in the 30 and 32t gears. Everything is silent up to that point.

I'm not sure if a smaller cog for the lowest gear would make a difference. Is the chain rubbing the spokes? If so, it's going to rub the spokes no matter the size of the cog.

[maunahaole]

First - at 220, you do not qualify as heavy on this board.

The mix of the ultegra RD and the 32 is probably the problem. If you can pull the part # from the RD, you can determine the max size rear sprocket - I'm guessing it is 29 or 30 - so the noise is probably the top jocley wheel in the cage not playing nice with the 32 cog. With the ultegra RD, it may not drop far enough to cleat the big rear cogs - using a MTB RD might solve this, as they are designed to work with bigger cogs (let the shimano gurus guide you on which one to choose). If you try a 29 I bet you will be fine. Stick with all steel cogs in back as well as a freehub body that is not alu alloy. Preferrably, you will have your biggest cogs in back on a carrier, as the carrier will keep the freehub body from gouging (although this is much less of a problem with a steel freehub).

[eddief]

is 30 tooth cassette. And that was a crap shoot done with maybe an extra long b screw. Or b screw in backwards to get more clearance. Get a 9 speed mt bike rear derailleur and go as big as 36. Any XTR, XT, Deore, etc. in the SGS variant will do the trick.

[rnhood]

Its very likely a case of the B-limit screw needing adjustment. When you are in the 39 ring and 32 cog, the upper pulley with chain should not be touching the cog.

Here (http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur) is a link to the Park site and a description of this adjustment. Otherwise, I agree with Eddief; put an XT 9-speed derailleur on it.

[pdmtong]

Its the RD....get a 9sp XT for value and problem is solved.

also, keep working hard on the bike and try to move away from using the 32 over time. its all just a mental game to affirm you are getting stronger

last year was the first time I never used my 29...so it can be done. just keep at it.

220 here is nothing. we cant all be 145....

[palincss]

What rear cassette do you recommend for standard 53/39 double cranks and a heavy (out of shape) rider? I am 220 lbs. My new "used" road bike is 9-speed Ultegra. I bought a long cage Ultegra rear derailleur and a Shimano XT 11-32 9-speed cassette to help me on the hills until I get in shape and loose some weight. Even after my LBS adjusted the RD it makes a bad noise in the 32t rear cog. I wonder if a12-27, 11-28, or 11-30 cassette would solve the problem.

The only other thing I can think of, is that I have an "upgraded" Dura-Ace" pulley on the RD that may be causing the noise. Maybe if I put the cheaper pulley back on it will help with the noise.

An Ultegra derailleur isn't supposed to work with a 32T sprocket. Why not put on a proper MTB rear derailleur? They're actually cheaper than an Ultegra.

[jds108]

And if you go the Shimano MTB rear derailleur route, don't use a 10 spd model. I haven't confirmed this, but heard that Shimano changed the derailleurs on the mtbs when they went to 10 speed.

Also, you'll just need the shorter cage model of Shimano MTB rear derailleur. (usually called "GS" as opposed to "SGS" for the longer cage.)

[Erik_A]

thanks very much

[Erik_A]

Well I cranked the B-screw down all the way, still didn't help, the pulley assembly was too close to the 32t cog. So I swapped in a MTB 'mega 9' Shimano XT: RD-M750-SGS (circa 2000); and the pulley is much further from the largest cog and the noise is gone. Thanks guys!

http://www.emsbikes.ch/images/schaltwerkshimanoxtals.jpg

[Erik_A]

I will, here is hoping to work towards putting the Ultegra back on soon with a 12-27 cassette...


Its the RD....get a 9sp XT for value and problem is solved.

also, keep working hard on the bike and try to move away from using the 32 over time. its all just a mental game to affirm you are getting stronger

last year was the first time I never used my 29...so it can be done. just keep at it.

220 here is nothing. we cant all be 145....

[Ralph]

I like to have a gear or two, higher and lower than I normally use, on the bike. Never know where I might wind up. Especially if I know I have some reserve gear and can get back.

[oldpotatoe]

What rear cassette do you recommend for standard 53/39 double cranks and a heavy (out of shape) rider? I am 220 lbs. My new "used" road bike is 9-speed Ultegra. I bought a long cage Ultegra rear derailleur and a Shimano XT 11-32 9-speed cassette to help me on the hills until I get in shape and loose some weight. Even after my LBS adjusted the RD it makes a bad noise in the 32t rear cog. I wonder if a12-27, 11-28, or 11-30 cassette would solve the problem.

The only other thing I can think of, is that I have an "upgraded" Dura-Ace" pulley on the RD that may be causing the noise. Maybe if I put the cheaper pulley back on it will help with the noise.

I think you need a longer cage RD, like a Deore or XT 9s RD and proper chainlength so the pulley doesn't hit the cog in the 32 or, it may be the chain is too long with the ultegra RD. OR need a longer b limit screw in the ultegra..lots of solutions to that noise.

[zzy]

And if you go the Shimano MTB rear derailleur route, don't use a 10 spd model. I haven't confirmed this, but heard that Shimano changed the derailleurs on the mtbs when they went to 10 speed.

Can someone confirm this? I would be very disappointed as interchangability is one of my favorite things about Shimano. Since changing the brake cable pull on the last generation STIs, it seems like the trend is dying.

[cmbicycles]

Can someone confirm this? I would be very disappointed as interchangability is one of my favorite things about Shimano. Since changing the brake cable pull on the last generation STIs, it seems like the trend is dying.

Shimano dynasys (10 speed) mountain components use a different pull ratio than their road and older mountain components. It is a less than 1:1 ratio, but I can't remember exactly.

[oldpotatoe]

Can someone confirm this? I would be very disappointed as interchangability is one of my favorite things about Shimano. Since changing the brake cable pull on the last generation STIs, it seems like the trend is dying.

shimano MTB 10s rear ders are NOT compatible with shimano road STI or barcons. shimano 9s MTB rear ders ARE compatible with shimano road levers.

sram, on the other hand, 10s MTB rear ders ARE compatible with road sram levers. sram MTB 9s rear ders ARE NOT compatible with road levers.

Confusing, isn't it?

[zzy]

Confusing, isn't it?

Sure is. Especially as Shimano 7/8/9 MTB/road derailleurs have always been compatible.

[pdmtong]

I like to have a gear or two, higher and lower than I normally use, on the bike. Never know where I might wind up. Especially if I know I have some reserve gear and can get back.

Agreed. I still run a 13-29 or 12-29 as its nice to know the 29 is there when we hit the 3 miles of 8-15% at mile 70 in the heat but its also reaffirming if I can manage it in the 23 or 26. I was never the fastest but I also have never had to walk or stop

[pdmtong]

shimano MTB 10s rear ders are NOT compatible with shimano road STI or barcons. shimano 9s MTB rear ders ARE compatible with shimano road levers.

sram, on the other hand, 10s MTB rear ders ARE compatible with road sram levers. sram MTB 9s rear ders ARE NOT compatible with road levers.

Confusing, isn't it?

I think the confusing thing is a Shimano 10s drivetrain is mated with an older 9s mtb rd and NOT the newer 10a mtb rd. haven't seen many SRAM setups. since the newer 2x10 setups with the huge rear cassette ranges I would have though I'd seen more mtb rds around here Some older guys I know through work have these setups Don't laugh. These are 70+ guys who ride their age in distance and elevation to celebrate their birthdays. Inspirational really

[palincss]

shimano MTB 10s rear ders are NOT compatible with shimano road STI or barcons. shimano 9s MTB rear ders ARE compatible with shimano road levers.

sram, on the other hand, 10s MTB rear ders ARE compatible with road sram levers. sram MTB 9s rear ders ARE NOT compatible with road levers.

Confusing, isn't it?

Are SRAM 10s MTB rders compatible with Shimano 10s road STI levers?

[Erik_A]

Well, I also swapped my 53T for this 50T 130 BCD chainring: http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-FC-5603-130BCD-Silver-130x50T/dp/B001GSMHWO; so I am running a 50/39 with an 11-32 cassette (soon to switch. This hybrid standard/compact franken-crank should get me over the hump until I am back in shape.

http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/

Hey, did you ever consider compact cranks...

[oldpotatoe]

Sure is. Especially as Shimano 7/8/9 MTB/road derailleurs have always been compatible.

Yep, and now 11s are not compatible with anything other than 11s STI, for now.
We'll see when Ultegra goes to 11s in the fall/winter.

[oldpotatoe]

Are SRAM 10s MTB rders compatible with Shimano 10s road STI levers?

Nope-

[Jeff N.]

I'm a large, heavy rider, (6'4", 250 lbs) and I've always been kind of a stubborn die-hard...if I can't get it done with a 12-25, it ain't gonna get done. And I've always gotten it done.:banana: Jeff N.

[Erik_A]

Nice, what kind of hills do you ride in San Diego, CA? Compact or Standard cranks?

I'm a large, heavy rider, (6'4", 250 lbs) and I've always been kind of a stubborn die-hard...if I can't get it done with a 12-25, it ain't gonna get done. And I've always gotten it done.:banana: Jeff N.

[Jeff N.]

39/53 standard.

[Erik_A]

Interesting for $25, the 2013 Sora RD-3500 derailleurs (both short and long cage) handle up to 32t capacity:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007Q4M2KO/ref=mw_dp_mpd?pd=1

[cloudguy]

You drive your car uphill in 5th gear too?

[Chance]

Interesting for $25, the 2013 Sora RD-3500 derailleurs (both short and long cage) handle up to 32t capacity:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007Q4M2KO/ref=mw_dp_mpd?pd=1

It appears Ultegra, 105, and Tiagra groups will also be able to handle larger large cogs in near future if not already:



http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/shimano-sora-and-tourney-2013-first-look-33204/

Ultegra, 105 & Tiagra

There are no major changes to Shimano's second-tier groupset for 2012/13. However, Ultegra 6770 Di2 gets a new top-mounted satellite shifter option and the mechanical version gets optional wide-ratio rear gearing. While the standard 6700 rear mech can only be used with up to 28-tooth sprockets, the new 6700-A can handle 30. It'll work with close-ratio gearing too, down to 11-23t, and is available in SS (short cage) and GS (medium cage) versions, in silver or black.

http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.com/images/news/2012/02/16/1329498277054-ybx77x5potir-670-70.jpg

The mid-range 105 and Tiagra groups also both get new wide-ratio rear derailleurs. The 5701 (black or silver) and 4601 (silver only) rear mechs can both be used with cassettes between 11-25t and 11-32t, and come in SS and GS variants.

[palincss]

Per Sheldon, Shimano short cage road rear derailleurs always were able to handle a 30T large sprocket.

Nobody's said anything about it so far, but SRAM Red is now fielding a long cage rear derailleur, used last year by Contador in a race. A friend has one on her new Seven Axiom. In fact, a brand new one because the original broke on her 4th ride while JRA. Free warranty replacement, as you'd expect, and the LBS wants her to come in every 200 miles or thereabouts so they can inspect the derailleur.