Can the top cover of compression plug be replaced?

[biker.caliente]

The top cover of Reynold compression plug for my Reynold carbon fork is pretty badly scratched up. The Syntace stem I purchased recently comes with a new top cap. Is there a way to replace the Reynold top cover with the one from Syntace? Be great if someone had done it before and describe the steps to. Do I need to get a new stem bolt as well?

Thanks ahead of time.

[Tony T]

If it fits, yes. The top cap is only needed to pre-load the bearing. After you lock down the stem, the top cap does nothing.
Just unscrew the old top cap, and screw in the new one (don't touch the stem bolts)

[Tony T]

You can get some nice custom top caps here (http://www.purelycustom.com/c-36-headset-caps-amp-screws.aspx)

[jds108]

Reynolds had their own semi-unique system. The top cap was more than just a top cap, it was also a threaded nut that screwed into a bolt inside the steerer. Don't know if they made them all this way or not.

You're safe in taking off the Reynolds piece to see if it's the same type. If the Reynolds piece has a typical bolt where the bolt head is visible, then it's the same type as your new syntace piece. The unique Reynolds caps have a hexagonal shaped hole - you stick an allen bolt into it and rotate the whole cap to unscrew it.

[nighthawk]

I think the Reynolds compression plug cap is specific to that plug.. It's not a standard top cap. It's similar to the FSA design.

http://img2.spadout.org/s/30834.jpg


http://www.pricepoint.com/images/styleImages/D_318%20FSACM9.jpg

Unless it is different than the expander plug I'm thinking, you would have to get a different style plug (something like the KCNC or Deda plugs) that uses a standard top cap, which you can then switch for the Syntace cap, like Tony T was suggesting.

[Tony T]

Thanks for catching my error. Didn't know that about Reynolds.

[biker.caliente]

The Reynold plug you show is the one that I have.

Based upon your description, I guess I'd have to ditch the Reynold plug for a replacement plug if I like to have the Syntace top cap on my bike. In that case, how can the current one be extracted? It seems to be wedged tight inside the steerer. Also, do you have any recommendation for a new plug? I see they come in different height and mechanisms? Has anyone ever replaced their Reynold plug with good result?

Thanks again.


I think the Reynolds compression plug cap is specific to that plug.. It's not a standard top cap. It's similar to the FSA design.

http://img2.spadout.org/s/30834.jpg


http://www.pricepoint.com/images/styleImages/D_318%20FSACM9.jpg

Unless it is different than the expander plug I'm thinking, you would have to get a different style plug that uses a standard top cap, which you can then switch for the Syntace cap, like Tony T was suggesting.

[nighthawk]

Thanks for catching my error. Didn't know that about Reynolds.

I don't think all of their plugs are that way, just the one I'm familiar with... so you might actually be right!

[ultraman6970]

As long as the plug thread in the bottom expander don't see the problem, don't know why i have the impression that the fsa uses the same threads and even is possible that fsa actually makes the plugs for Reynolds.

Thanks for the link.

[nighthawk]

The Reynold plug you show is the one that I have.

Based upon your description, I guess I'd have to ditch the Reynold plug for a replacement plug if I like to have the Syntace top cap on my bike. In that case, how can the current one be extracted? It seems to be wedged tight inside the steerer. Also, do you have any recommendation for a new plug? I see they come in different height and mechanisms? Has anyone ever replaced their Reynold plug with good result?

Thanks again.

My take on it (in regards to the height of the plug) is that you want to be sure that your stem is clamped over the steerer tube where the expander plug is located. That way there is a force exerted on both sides of the steerer tube. This is most apparently an issue if you are using spacers above the stem which would likely place your stem clamped partly below the area of the steerer that the expander plug is filling.

Others should chime in on what expander plugs they like, but here's some that are available:

Someone in another thread recently mentioned the Tune "gum gum" plug (http://fairwheelbikes.com/tune-gum-gum-expander-plug-p-310.html).. which looks interesting and promising to me.

I've also heard good things about the Specialized plug (http://www.specialized.com/cn/en/ftb/components/road-stems/specialized-expander-plug).

I'm having good luck with the Columbus (http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=17005&category=1695) one.

Then there's Deda (http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=29439&category=1695), etc (http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/index.php?category=1695).

[biker.caliente]

Two more questions, please.

1. Would all these recommended plugs expands enough to push against the inner of the carbon steerer?
2. I seem to remember seeing some Specialized plugs where there are two hex bolts of different sizes in the same cavity. One for expansion against the carbon steerer and the other for compression on the headset. What is the case with Reynold plug? Does the existing hex bolt on the Reynold plug provide both the function of expansion and compression? If so, the extraction would be a simple procedure of loosing up the hex bolt.

Thanks.

[nighthawk]

Two more questions, please.

1. Would all these recommended plugs expands enough to push against the inner of the carbon steerer?
2. I seem to remember seeing some Specialized plugs where there are two hex bolts of different sizes in the same cavity. One for expansion against the carbon steerer and the other for compression on the headset. What is the case with Reynold plug? Does the existing hex bolt on the Reynold plug provide both the function of expansion and compression? If so, the extraction would be a simple procedure of loosing up the hex bolt.

Thanks.

1. Assuming your steerer tube is 1 1/8", just get a 1 1/8" plug. 1" and 1 1/8" plugs will each have a range of steerer tube inside diameter that they will work with. To be sure you could measure the inside diameter of your steerer and check that against the range specified for your plug. But if your steerer is 1 1/8"... go with a 1 1/8" plug. No problem.

2. For both styles you use one size hex to expand the plug inside the steerer tube. Then a second hex to screw the top cap onto or into the expander plug. With the Reynolds and FSA style... the cap threads onto the portion of the plug that when threaded causes the expansion. With the others, the top cap bolt threads into the space where you initially used the first hex. The second hex is smaller, so it makes sense.

It's kindof hard to explain without pictures... I hope that makes it somewhat clearer.

[nighthawk]

Here's what's going on with your Reynolds plug (though this pic isn't a Reynolds):
http://www.cannondaleexperts.com/assets/images/kf017exploded.jpg
The 5mm bolt expands the lower portion, creating the force that holds it inside the steerer tube. The 6mm hex threads the top cap onto the expansion plug, and as it is threading down it depresses the stem, spacers, and headset.

[pdmtong]

Chapeau to Nighthawk.

I have a Serotta plug based on this Reynolds "design".

Same thing on my OP43

Had I not had these experiences I too would have been thinking *** upon first encounter.

Just goes to show there are things we all know about that is brand new turf for others.

One thing I never liked is that when you are pre-loading the reynolds cap, you need to orient the lettering to your preferred aesthetic, then tighten the stem bolts. it's not really easy to do this later like a more common king top cap.

[biker.caliente]

Thanks to Nighthawk and everyone here. Now it is crystal clear what needs to be done.

The forum is wonderful place to get/give intricate info like this and pick up some great deals, too. Love it here!!

[nighthawk]

Thanks to Nighthawk and everyone here. Now it is crystal clear what needs to be done.

The forum is wonderful place to get/give intricate info like this and pick up some great deals, too. Love it here!!

Happy to help. One thing I forgot to mention, especially if you are messing with these things for the first time, is to be cautious not to over-torque the expander plug or top cap bolt. It's something like 6 or 7 Nm to keep the plug in, and about the same or a little more for the top cap. I've done these by "feel" on mine and friends bikes and never had problems or heard of problems..... but I'm now in the "better safe than sorry" camp in regards to the risk of compromising a carbon cockpit.

[Tony T]

Not sure about Renolds-type, but the top-cap torque on others is only needed for the bearing pre-load, and less than 1nm (5-10 in pds) torque is usually needed for pre-load (check the headset manual for spec).