Velo News-Chain Lube

[VA-Scooter]

Just got new copy of Velo. Has a chain lube comparison test. Very interesting. Paraffin wax seems to be their choice if you do not mind a little extra work.

[cdn_bacon]

Hardly seems like extra work though according to this guy :)

http://www.instructables.com/id/Lubricating-a-Bicycle-Chain-using-Paraffin/

Thanks for that post though. Love learning something new:hello:

[arcadian]

Is there no pre-dip cleaning? That would be nice. Did I understand that correctly?

[VA-Scooter]

I think it is more work than just applying lube. I would want the chain real clean. They had a very scientific study & wax worked better-less friction. I have not used melted paraffin wax on a chain since the 1970s. I think I will give it a try.

[arcadian]

Isn't wax what the chain is lubricated with from the factory? I can get 300-400 miles out of the original chain wax, which rocks.

I would think you would have to clean it as well, but he didn't mention it in his instructions.

[rnhood]

Its grease, straight from the horse's mouth.

http://www.bikerumor.com/2011/06/28/chainwear-challenge-quick-interview-with-shimano/

[oldpotatoe]

Its grease, straight from the horse's mouth.

http://www.bikerumor.com/2011/06/28/chainwear-challenge-quick-interview-with-shimano/

Should be pointed out that it is also a rust inhibitor, since the chains, altho in plastic, do come over onna boat.

Used to wax chains, late 80s. Little metal tub of wax, into a pan of hot water..wax melts, chain goes in...pull out, onto a piece of newspapaer..let cool(harden) and then install. Lot of trouble for a short lived chainlube.

[djg21]

I used to wax my chains in the 90s. Performance used to sell cans of chain wax impregnated with Teflon. I wish I could find it again.

Wipe the chain off before dipping it (clean off old lube first time). After the chain has been waxed once, all you need to do is wipe the chain with a rag before waxing next time.

I prefer wax, as the chain lasts longer (IMO) and your drivetrain stays far cleaner than when you use lube.

One thing you can do if you don't have a wax heater: put the wax in old coffee can. Put the can into a pan of water so the bottom couple inches is submerged. Heat the pan on a hot plate or electric stove burner at a low heat until the wax is fully melted.

After removing the chain from the wax, I would drop it on an old towel. Let the wax dry fully. Then wipe all of the excess wax from the chain (not in your kitchen). There should be nothing left on your chain except a waxy film. Reinstall.

In hot weather, you will have to wax more frequently, but your chain stays clean and quiet for a good while.

If you are OCD, use two cans of wax. Use the first to dip and clean the dirty chain -- you can even leave it submerged in the melted wax for 30 secs or so. Wipe the chain immediately after removing it from wax, and then immediately dip in the can of clean wax.

I'm going to look for the wax heater. This seems to be a good, simple way to do this at a work bench.

[arcadian]

I used to wax my chains in the 90s. Performance used to sell cans of chain wax impregnated with Teflon. I wish I could find it again.

Wipe the chain off before dipping it (clean off old lube first time). After the chain has been waxed once, all you need to do is wipe the chain with a rag before waxing next time.

I prefer wax, as the chain lasts longer (IMO) and your drivetrain stays far cleaner than when you use lube.

One thing you can do if you don't have a wax heater: put the wax in old coffee can. Put the can into a pan of water so the bottom couple inches is submerged. Heat the pan on a hot plate or electric stove burner at a low heat until the wax is fully melted.

After removing the chain from the wax, I would drop it on an old towel. Let the wax dry fully. Then wipe all of the excess wax from the chain (not in your kitchen). There should be nothing left on your chain except a waxy film. Reinstall.

In hot weather, you will have to wax more frequently, but your chain stays clean and quiet for a good while.

If you are OCD, use two cans of wax. Use the first to dip and clean the dirty chain -- you can even leave it submerged in the melted wax for 30 secs or so. Wipe the chain immediately after removing it from wax, and then immediately dip in the can of clean wax.

I'm going to look for the wax heater. This seems to be a good, simple way to do this at a work bench.


Good info. Thanks.

[zap]

Wax suks. Just reno'd part of my basement and found an old can of wax. Tossed the damn thing in the waste.

Wax lasts maybe 100 miles.

[Gummee]

Wasn't that 'waxing is a PITA' thing why White Lightning came about in the first place?

:ear

I'll stick to Tri-Flow in the spray can. Quick. Easy. Lasts a decent interval. (and I have a big can of it)

M

[cnighbor1]

I tried Paraffin wax in wet Seattle. Maybe could for 250 miles before it had little effect after riding in the rain
Charles
PS I like Pro-Link Less dirt pickup so chain keeps clean lots longer and when applying cleans the chain. Just run chain while holding a rag around it

[regularguy412]

For me, the waxing, itself, is not a big deal. However, punching holes in a perfectly good chain just to clean it, is not my idea of safety (quicklinks excluded). I still think regular cleaning (say,,, every 200 miles) and re-lubing with a good homebrew, triflow, etc., goes a long way toward chain longevity.

Mike in AR:beer:

[Lala]

I gave in waxing years ago - it never seemed to last and the chains seemed to wear quickly.

I now follow Zinn's advice - a quick wipe with ProGold afer (almost) every ride.

http://velonews.competitor.com/2010/03/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-maintaining-an-11-speed-chain_108165

Does the new article hav some new advice?

[krismac23]

What was their reason for wax? Lower drag?

[avalonracing]

I'm a huge fan of this:
http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/ceramic_wet_lube.htm
So much so that I have given bottles to friends just so they will try it out and say, "Wow, that stuff is great!" and so Finish Line will continue to make it.

I just put a little on a clean chain (it is easy to use too much of this stuff) put a rag on the chain and back pedal a few times. I'll do this every 3-4 rides. The chain stays relatively clean, it wipes off clean and reapplies easily.

What's cool is after you apply it you can run your finger down your chain and literally feel how slick this stuff is. Then when you start to ride you'll also notice that your chain is all but silent on your gears.

Seriously, try it.

[Ralph]

Wax suks. Just reno'd part of my basement and found an old can of wax. Tossed the damn thing in the waste.

Wax lasts maybe 100 miles.

I agree. Can't imagine anyone recommending it. Been there done that.

[eddief]

Ceramic WET™ is Finish Line’s most advanced and most effective racing lubricant. This wet-style full synthetic lubricant is enhanced with a nano-sized platelets of boron nitride and micron particles of fluoropolymer. As Ceramic WET builds it’s ceramic coating on the frictional surfaces of a drivetrain, cyclists will feel the smoothness and appreciate the added quietness. Ceramic WET ensures maximum drivetrain efficiency. This performance level often provides a physiological (reserved energy) and psychological (confidence) advantage for cyclists during climbs and sprints.

Ceramic WET’s extreme durability, amazing smoothness and ultimate quietness will exceed the expectations of most cyclists! This patented technology is sure to change the way mechanics prepare a bike for a race and it may even change the way racers compete during the race.


I'm a huge fan of this:
http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/ceramic_wet_lube.htm
So much so that I have given bottles to friends just so they will try it out and say, "Wow, that stuff is great!" and so Finish Line will continue to make it.

I just put a little on a clean chain (it is easy to use too much of this stuff) put a rag on the chain and back pedal a few times. I'll do this every 3-4 rides. The chain stays relatively clean, it wipes off clean and reapplies easily.

What's cool is after you apply it you can run your finger down your chain and literally feel how slick this stuff is. Then when you start to ride you'll also notice that your chain is all but silent on your gears.

Seriously, try it.

[chismog]

Ceramic WET’s extreme durability, amazing smoothness and ultimate quietness will exceed the expectations of most cyclists! This patented technology is sure to change the way mechanics prepare a bike for a race and it may even change the way racers compete during the race.

Gotta get me some of that! :eek:

[Jaq]

Or you could grab some chainlube from across the Hall (http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f3/nfs-chainlube-wait-over-29984.html) and support a good cause at the same time.

[oldpotatoe]

"Ceramic WET™ is Finish Line’s most advanced and most effective racing lubricant. This wet-style full synthetic lubricant is enhanced with a nano-sized platelets of boron nitride and micron particles of fluoropolymer. As Ceramic WET builds it’s ceramic coating on the frictional surfaces of a drivetrain, cyclists will feel the smoothness and appreciate the added quietness. Ceramic WET ensures maximum drivetrain efficiency. This performance level often provides a physiological (reserved energy) and psychological (confidence) advantage for cyclists during climbs and sprints.

Ceramic WET’s extreme durability, amazing smoothness and ultimate quietness will exceed the expectations of most cyclists! This patented technology is sure to change the way mechanics prepare a bike for a race and it may even change the way racers compete during the race."

yikes..

[zap]

Or you could grab some chainlube from across the Hall (http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f3/nfs-chainlube-wait-over-29984.html) and support a good cause at the same time.

I will be applying "Ballers Lube" tomorrow........to a chain.

[Black Dog]

Since it has not been mentioned yet, I will put in a vote for Chain-L lube. It is everything they advertise it to be.

[Lewis Moon]

Since it has not been mentioned yet, I will put in a vote for Chain-L lube. It is everything they advertise it to be.

Love the way this stuff lasts. Absolutely, positively HATE the way it attracts and holds dirt and then slings it all over everything. Really, there HAS to be a way to have an oil that works well and lasts...and doesn't make your road bike look like you just ran a muddy CX course.

[rnhood]

Try Breakfree CLP. Not expensive and it works very well. No need to keep buying those hip brand lubes. Triflow is very good too.

[cfox]

Love the way this stuff lasts. Absolutely, positively HATE the way it attracts and holds dirt and then slings it all over everything. Really, there HAS to be a way to have an oil that works well and lasts...and doesn't make your road bike look like you just ran a muddy CX course.

LOVE Cahin-L. If you absolutely strip and dry your chain, apply a teeny weeny drop to each link, let it soak in a while, wipe the mother loving bejeezus out of it, I've found it stays clean. Super quiet chain and it lasts forever.

[christian]

If you absolutely strip and dry your chain, apply a teeny weeny drop to each link, let it soak in a while, wipe the mother loving bejeezus out of it, I've found it stays clean.Admit it, you're just having Justin do this. There's no way you have that kind of time with kids and a job. It takes me two days to find enough time to glue a tubular.

[cfox]

Admit it, you're just having Justin do this. There's no way you have that kind of time with kids and a job. It takes me two days to find enough time to glue a tubular.

Ha! I actually like doing this stuff, I just get up REALLY early to ride and do my bike stuff. I find if I try to wedge it in between family/work stuff I just end up frustrated. You know of what I speak, Mr. SuperCommuter!

[morrisbenedict]

LOVE Cahin-L. If you absolutely strip and dry your chain, apply a teeny weeny drop to each link, let it soak in a while, wipe the mother loving bejeezus out of it, I've found it stays clean. Super quiet chain and it lasts forever.

Me too love Chain L, at least for road bike. I don't bother to strip factory lube, and perhaps put a few more drops every 600 or 800 miles. Yes it is dirty, but lasts till I change the chain every 2500 miles or so. Never a squeak even with lots of wet rides.

[zap]

I don't bother to strip factory lube,

Can't beat that.

[oldpotatoe]

Since it has not been mentioned yet, I will put in a vote for Chain-L lube. It is everything they advertise it to be.

I have a sample bottle and yep, it lubes and quiets everything but it reminds me of 30w. Very thick and boy, does it get dirty.

[keevon]

1 part chainsaw oil to 3 parts (or so) mineral spirits. Consistency should be in the neighborhood of maple syrup. Homebrew and be done with it.

[VA-Scooter]

Very little has been said about the VELO article that seemed unbiased & scientific. It had numbers to back up that paraffin wax made your drivetrain more efficient. "The only real argument against paraffin wax is its more intensive application process. It's obviously the fastest in ideal conditions, & even in nasty conditions it is still an exceptional single-day lube." I found this surprising but have not used paraffin wax on a chain since I was a child. {a long time ago}

[Pars]

LOVE Cahin-L. If you absolutely strip and dry your chain, apply a teeny weeny drop to each link, let it soak in a while, wipe the mother loving bejeezus out of it, I've found it stays clean. Super quiet chain and it lasts forever.
Agreed. If you limit the application per quote, and wipe the chain down occasionally, it doesn't seem to get any dirtier than anything else I've tried.

[drhule33]

Yeah, it (waxing) seems like a lot of trouble to go through for what seems like a pretty small amount of benefit (in terms of wattage). Maybe if your Team Sky and the mechanic does it for you, but a Joe-Schmoe like me... I'll stick with my ProGold ProLink.

[Rueda Tropical]

http://www.friction-facts.com/ultrafast-overview

[LegendRider]

If waxing truly results in a chain with the lowest friction losses, will pro teams show up to the Tour with 20 pre-waxed chains for their GC leader? Wash the bike, pop on the new chain and get your leader a few extra watts.

[morrisbenedict]

http://www.friction-facts.com/ultrafast-overview

Gotta be suspicious of so-called objective scientific studies that cost $4.95 to read them. A bit of peer-review would take these claims down, I suspect.

[thirdgenbird]

I grew up using white lighting but have debated trying chain-L but the idea of dirty chains isn't attractive. Does anyone have a happy medium they would reccomend?

[rnhood]

The key to low friction metal surfaces is PTFE. Any lube rich with it will provide excellent lubrication properties....pretty much second to none. The wax in Ultrachain appears to be the carrier for deposition and to help stabilized the PTFE and keep it in place until its embedded in the metal pores. The teflon is the key element.

[oldpotatoe]

I grew up using white lighting but have debated trying chain-L but the idea of dirty chains isn't attractive. Does anyone have a happy medium they would reccomend?

I sell a bunch of prolink. I could GAS about the 'watts' lost when using it. It means if used correctly, then the __ you will not lose is $, from wasted chains and cogs.

[dancinkozmo]

i like to use velo news to wipe the excess lube from my chain....

[BdaGhisallo]

I am willing to give the wax thing a try, out of curiosity more than anything.

The real question I have is how it holds up in bad weather. If you have a rainy ride, do you need to re-wax the chain? How many miles does it take for rain to wash out the wax and render the chain sans any lubricant? I am concerned that if I get caught in the rain that I might get home with a chain that is behaving as if it had no lube on it and squeaking like hell.

The idea of an ultra clean drivetrain does sound great though.

[thirdgenbird]

I sell a bunch of prolink. I could GAS about the 'watts' lost when using it. It means if used correctly, then the __ you will not lose is $, from wasted chains and cogs.

Would you reccomend fully cleaning the chain if converting from white lightning to prolink?

[pbarry]

Very little has been said about the VELO article that seemed unbiased & scientific. It had numbers to back up that paraffin wax made your drivetrain more efficient. "The only real argument against paraffin wax is its more intensive application process. It's obviously the fastest in ideal conditions, & even in nasty conditions it is still an exceptional single-day lube." I found this surprising but have not used paraffin wax on a chain since I was a child. {a long time ago}

That should have been the lead phrase. Impractical for normal use. Bicycling magazine had a DIY article on paraffin 30+ years ago and I fell for it. Maybe 150 miles till my chain started squeaking. Unless you're going for the hour record, stick with your favorite lube.

[VA-Scooter]

That should have been the lead phrase. Impractical for normal use. Bicycling magazine had a DIY article on paraffin 30+ years ago and I fell for it. Maybe 150 miles till my chain started squeaking. Unless you're going for the hour record, stick with your favorite lube.

That is what I suspected. I wondered how this stuff could be so great but nobody is using it.

[Unpredictable]

If its not flamable....its not lube. Thats our moto at the shop. Prolink Extreme has been a favorite as of late. I like it even more than the original.

[avalonracing]

i like to use velo news to wipe the excess lube from my chain....

The above quote was worth repeating.

Now that it has been, get the damn Finish Line Wet Ceramic Lube, use it as I recommended and you won't go back!

[Doug Fattic]

I used paraffin wax for several years back maybe 20 or so years ago. I liked it better than anything else I've used before or since. What I liked was that it was very clean and I never got chain tattoos when my leg brushed up against it. Much cleaner than anything else. What I didn't like about it was the complication of applying it. I had a double boiler in which the lower pan filled with water over the stove melted the wax in the top pan. One of the secrets to application was to leave the chain in the melted wax long enough so the chain itself came up to the wax temperature. That way when I lifted it out the hot wax would run off the chain instead of clumping to it. A few paper towel wipes and the excess was gone and ready to install.

I typically got 800 to 1000 miles before I needed to reapply wax. I knew when it would start to get noisy. This would be greatly cut short if I got caught in pouring rain. I seldom rode my good bike in the rain anyway. Of course I always used a chain link that allowed easy chain removal and reinstallation. The problem I found was that sometimes at the end of the wax's milage I didn't have time to rewax it before a ride so I would apply some traditional lubricant. Then if I wanted to apply wax again I had to clean the chain of the new lubricant and I didn't want to be bothered so I just left it.

I should add that some other lubricants require some complicated application techniques too. Primarily the chain has to be really clean and I'd have to put it in my ultra sonic cleaner several times with new cleaner.

[pbarry]

I used paraffin wax for several years back maybe 20 or so years ago. I liked it better than anything else I've used before or since. What I liked was that it was very clean and I never got chain tattoos when my leg brushed up against it. Much cleaner than anything else. What I didn't like about it was the complication of applying it. I had a double boiler in which the lower pan filled with water over the stove melted the wax in the top pan. One of the secrets to application was to leave the chain in the melted wax long enough so the chain itself came up to the wax temperature. That way when I lifted it out the hot wax would run off the chain instead of clumping to it. A few paper towel wipes and the excess was gone and ready to install.

I typically got 800 to 1000 miles before I needed to reapply wax. I knew when it would start to get noisy. This would be greatly cut short if I got caught in pouring rain. I seldom rode my good bike in the rain anyway. Of course I always used a chain link that allowed easy chain removal and reinstallation. The problem I found was that sometimes at the end of the wax's milage I didn't have time to rewax it before a ride so I would apply some traditional lubricant. Then if I wanted to apply wax again I had to clean the chain of the new lubricant and I didn't want to be bothered so I just left it.

I should add that some other lubricants require some complicated application techniques too. Primarily the chain has to be really clean and I'd have to put it in my ultra sonic cleaner several times with new cleaner.


If anyone else posted the above, I would question their veracity. IMO, you are more trusted than Frank Bruno! Will try it once more, using your technique.

[LegendRider]

My guess is VeloNews will be publishing a rebuttal from the folks at ProGold! Even if the "metal conditioner" claim is marketing nonsense, I'll still use ProLink - it works fine as far I can tell.

I used to try every new lube available in search of the holy grail of a perfectly clean, quiet and long-lasting drivetrain. I've given up for the most part..

http://velonews.competitor.com/2013/04/bikes-and-tech/velolab-revisited-testing-chain-friction-over-time-with-progold_282854

[Ralph]

Should be pointed out that it is also a rust inhibitor, since the chains, altho in plastic, do come over onna boat.

Used to wax chains, late 80s. Little metal tub of wax, into a pan of hot water..wax melts, chain goes in...pull out, onto a piece of newspapaer..let cool(harden) and then install. Lot of trouble for a short lived chainlube.

My experience also. It's a nutty idea. Would never consider doing it again.

[GRAVELBIKE]

LOVE Cahin-L. If you absolutely strip and dry your chain, apply a teeny weeny drop to each link, let it soak in a while, wipe the mother loving bejeezus out of it, I've found it stays clean. Super quiet chain and it lasts forever.

If you apply Chain-L off the bike (spread chain out on newspaper), there's less excess to wipe off, etc.

I posted my Chain-L review here:
http://www.gravelbike.com/?p=2208

[SpokeValley]

I've been testing different lubes (sounds like several of us) after I had a conversation with my buddy about this subject. I'm a clean drivetrain freak so I found his method interesting.

I'd been using Chain-L which is OK (changed from Rock 'n Roll...too wet) . It is thick and smells funny but if you apply it as they recommend and wipe the devil off of your chain after you ride, it lasts a long time and is fairly, but not squeaky, clean. I reapplied after about 1k miles just because I was paranoid.

My buddy was using a wax/graphite home brew that he liked a lot. Fairly easy to apply, kept the drive train clean, long mileage, etc.

The technique surfaced around 2009 in a Bicycling thread here: (it's down a way on the page, Garth is the main character.) http://forums.bicycling.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/671104717/m/1941016826

The logic of adding graphite appealed to me so I tried this on a new chain and I liked the result, but it's a hassle to remove the chain and dip it. There is some clean up required as well. This mixture is black so I cleaned off the side links and poked out the hollow pins. After that, any excess would really just fall off after I rode a bit. Really dry and clean.

The problem I had was that I couldn't tell how long it was lasting. So I rewaxed after 500 miles out of paranoia. I actually got comments on how clean I was keeping my drivetrain from my buddies.

I liked this result but when I got into a time pinch and felt like I needed to rewax, I just did a quick link-by-link touch up with Chain-L over the wax/graphite and I was in good shape.

Trouble is that if I decide to go back to the wax, I'll need to remove the chain (I use quick links but still...) thoroughly clean it, and then wax if I want it back to new. Plus obviouysly clean the chainwheels and cassette just to get squeaky clean.

Still thinking about it.

[Seramount]

used to do the whole silly paraffin ritual...

take the chain off, clean in solvent, wash with hot, soapy water, dry in oven, melt wax, dip in wax, wipe off excess wax...repeat every 100 miles.

bunch of BS, imo.

after years of using Triflow (smells great, doesn't last for crap) and a few name brand lubes that were nothing special, I tried Chain-L.

the stuff is great. have been tracking my lube intervals...best is 785 miles, averaging ~650 miles.

produces the quietest drive-train ever...buttery smooth, too.

[Kirk Pacenti]

Anyone here tried Lilly Lube? http://lillylube.com/

[Joachim]

I switched from chain L to NFS chain lube. Can't be happier.

[cfox]

I was a Prolink guy, but DA 7900 chain was just too clacky with it, so went with Chain-L. It works great and quiets everything down but is a process to get on properly and your rear wheel will be spritzed with oil for a few rides. I just recently switched to DA 9070 and the chain is dramatically quieter, so I'm hoping to go back to (much easier to use) Prolink.

All that said, any lube will work fine as long as you use it; a bike chain is a pretty low stress environment for any lube to handle.

[SpokeValley]

Anyone tried this stuff?

Boesheild T-9: http://boeshield.com/features-benefits/bicycles/

If you can believe their poop sheet, sounds like good stuff:

"Boeshield T-9® was developed and licensed by The Boeing Company to fill their need for a superior lubricant/protectant.

The formulation, based on a unique combination of solvents and waxes, is designed to penetrate metal pores and dissolve minor corrosion, then leave a resilient waxy coating that lasts for many months.

We began by successfully introducing Boeshield T-9® to the tough saltwater marine market for lubricating and protecting all metals. It works well on engines and deck hardware as well as electronics, batteries and wiring connections. It is non-conductive and will not cause short circuits.

For bicycle chains, T-9® has proven to be a tough, long lasting waterproof lubricant. Our sales keep growing every year despite many competitors."

[pbarry]

Anyone tried this stuff?

Boesheild T-9: http://boeshield.com/features-benefits/bicycles/

If you can believe their poop sheet, sounds like good stuff:

Good product but better for other applications than as a chain lube. I jumped on it 20+ years ago when it was introduced. Chain got noisy after 150-200 miles. Have used it as a "frame saver" solution on new frames with good results tho. Works well on unpainted/unplated steel to keep it from rusting.

[pbarry]

Anyone tried the VSalon-Too Tall chain lube?

[Rob1519]

I have found Dumonde Tech Lite to be an excellent product. It is however, a little overly aromatic during application.

http://www.dumondetech.com/dumonde/products/bicycle-2/

[dekindy]

Anyone tried the VSalon-Too Tall chain lube?

Interested also.

[Joachim]

Anyone tried the VSalon-Too Tall chain lube?

Yes, I have.. It's called NFS. Awesome.

[SpeedyChix]

First forum member will excess of 150 posts who PMs me with their name, shipping address gets a approx. 80% full bottle of Chain-L lube. Be patient, you may not hear back from me until later on Wednesday.

NFS is the lube asked about in recent posts, stuff is good. I've been really pleased with application and use. You do need to wipe your chain down after every ride. If you're not keen on doing that...it's not a lube for you.

Link for NFS if you're in a shopping mood: http://ballersride.com/shop/nixfrixshun-chainlube-nfs

[Louis]

You do need to wipe your chain down after every ride.

For folks who feel that they haven't been spending enough time on their bike maintenance...

[LegendRider]

Is the bicycle chain lubricant market over-saturated? :p

[Louis]

Is the bicycle chain lubricant market over-saturated? :p

But some of those don't have much market penetration...

In a related matter, I can't be the only one who's wondered why there are so many different brands of bike tires out there. (most of which probably come from two factories in Indonesia)

[rice rocket]

Anyone here tried Lilly Lube? http://lillylube.com/

Is this your guerrilla marketing? ;)



I picked up some Einzsett gel grease for my motorcycle, I started using it on the bicycle. I've always been happy w/ their wax and polish products on my vehicles. Seems to do it's job... Motorcycles have O-rings between each plate though, which needs conditioning that bicycles don't so it's a little overkill.

http://www.1z-usa.com/chain-lubricant.html

http://www.1z-usa.com/assets/images/Products/Ultra-Gel-Chain-Grease.jpg

[SpeedyChix]

First forum member... bottle of Chain-L lube.

The Lube has been claimed and on its way today.

[Kirk Pacenti]

Is this your guerrilla marketing? ;)

[/img]

:p No, no connection to them. I stumbled onto their site and liked the home-business feel of the video on their site. Just wondered if anyone here has tried it before I buy.

[ColonelJLloyd]

I'm a huge fan of this:
http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/ceramic_wet_lube.htm

That's what I've been using. I like it.

[GRAVELBIKE]

:p No, no connection to them. I stumbled onto their site and liked the home-business feel of the video on their site. Just wondered if anyone here has tried it before I buy.

Looking at the instructions, I have to wonder if it has a high solvent content.

[BobbyJones]

I'm in this camp as well and won't be buying more Boeshield t9 once I run out. It's been ok, but it doesn't last long in the dry, last at all in the wet and is very difficult to clean off residue.

Good product but better for other applications than as a chain lube. I jumped on it 20+ years ago when it was introduced. Chain got noisy after 150-200 miles. Have used it as a "frame saver" solution on new frames with good results tho. Works well on unpainted/unplated steel to keep it from rusting.