Reynolds Wheels

[mdeeds71]

Anyone have experience with the Reynolds Stratus DV/Mid V/SV or the aluminum Alta...Looking at a tubular DV set for 1300 or so...first set of tubulars and race specific wheels...

I need to know if my 180 weights is ok for them or a little more than race only use.

[toaster]

RoadBikeReview had an article on carbon tubular wheelsets. I think the Reynolds is probably the best you can get.

They'll be plenty strong.

I rode a new set of carbon tubular Zipp 303's today and I can't tell how incredible they felt. The difference between typical light clincher wheels and super light carbon tubulars is amazing. I'm going to have to put the clinchers back on some day or I'll never go back.

[Argos]

Toaster is right in that it's a great riding experience..... Light and Tubular.

I like Zipp over Reynolds myself, but like Campy v. Shimano (sounds like a court case) it's opinion. Regardless of which you choose, Zipp or Reynolds, I would say look into the option of Custom.

You can go to the thread currently a few away from this one and look at custom wheel builders. You can choose your own hubs and spokes, as well as spoke count and crossing and have them built for you. Chances are it'll cost the same, or even a little less.

For your weight, even as RACE ONLY wheels, I think this would be a nice option because you could get a 28h rear instead of the 24h that they offer. Minimal weight difference, but nice durability increase. Myself, I'd probably even go 24h in the front (as opposed to 20 or less). They will still be below 1300g and now they are not Zipps or Reynolds. They are yours!

To save you 12 seconds of searching, here is my "Shameless Plug" for a wheelbuilder..... www.ergottwheels.com

Eric, ergott, is a member of this forum and has been building custom Carbon wheels for the NY area primarily for years. He has built ALL of my custom wheelsets (which is alot) and has built tons of carbon wheels for TT's to Cyclocross. He is extremely meticulous, and honestly, without sounding jealous, the bastard is REALLY good at anything he puts his mind to. Anything. It's almost creepy. Well, except girls, but he's married now and the one he got is pretty great. :D

[Tom Kellogg]

A few thoughts:


I ride both Zipp 303 tubulars and Reynolds Cirro SUVs. The Zipps are much stiffer, but not stronger.

The Cirros are amazingly tough, but they really aren't adequate for crits, only road races ... and at or below my weight (150).

All of the Reynolds carbon rims are incredibly tough. Even the Cirros. The Mid-V rims are a lot stiffer and anyone can ride them, even in Cyclo-X. They make the perfect crit. wheel.

Both companies build their wheels with Sapim spokes. They are strong enough, but the tend to build a flexier wheel than DT Comps. They feel more like a wheel built up with DT Evolution spokes. Ugh.

If you get the Zipps, be sure to specify the Roubaix version. It is a few grams heavier and about three times as tough. Same price.

And, yes, any of these wheels will out perform any clincher, any time ... by a lot.

[divve]

Here's a nice custom option if I say so myself. For 180lbs I'd recommend 28F and 32R however.

http://www.rouesartisanales.com/album-46624.html

[dbrk]

A few thoughts:


clipped and snipped...ALL good insight and advice from TK, imho.
And, yes, any of these wheels will out perform any clincher, any time ... by a lot.


But, but, but...this only, only applies to race bikes, fast riding, and situations that don't put you in jeopardy of walking home or being stranded because the wheel (especially spoke) failed. Of course, TK meant not to include a randonneur-style or other reliability-required ride (say with small loads), but these wheels would look downright goofy on anything but a "performance", i.e., race bike. But there are lots of ways to perform and these wheels are not suitable for lots of riding styles where they would surely under-perform. Everyone knows that and nothing remotely like criticism is being leveled at the comment above.

dbrk

[Argos]

Tom Kellogg is the Man. I forgot to mention the Roubaix version. Absolutely. Awesome stock choice.

[Argos]

But, but, but...this only, only applies to race bikes, fast riding, and situations that don't put you in jeopardy of walking home or being stranded because the wheel (especially spoke) failed. Of course, TK meant not to include a randonneur-style or other reliability-required ride (say with small loads), but these wheels would look downright goofy on anything but a "performance", i.e., race bike. But there are lots of ways to perform and these wheels are not suitable for lots of riding styles where they would surely under-perform. Everyone knows that and nothing remotely like criticism is being leveled at the comment above.

dbrk


Huh?

I mean, I get what you are saying, but... He specifically wanted a tubular race wheel..... So that is what we are working towards, no?

Moreso, I use this quality of wheel all the time. Light, reliable, tubular. I've never been stranded, or broke a spoke. I race Cross on Carbon. I wish I could step up and race cross on my Hyperons, but even my BALLS aren't that big.

PLEASE let us not turn this into a futile Clincher v. Tubular, not saying that you, dbrk, are. But everyone, we've beat that horse, dug it up, let it rot, and beat it again.

[ergott]

Here's a nice custom option if I say so myself. For 180lbs I'd recommend 28F and 32R however.

http://www.rouesartisanales.com/album-46624.html

Zipp 280 rims
DT 240s hubs
DT Aerolite spokes
Al nipples
28 2X front and rear
1130g

With tune hubs the above build would be under 1100g.

The Zipp 280 rims are definetly lighter, at least as durable, and most likely more aerodynamic (cant prove that). More spokes for a stiffer, more durable wheel. Both hubs are quality. I don't know the price of the wheels on that site, but I do know what the above build would cost.

[divve]

The rims are lighter, but I don't agree that Zipp 280 rims are as reliable. Your weight listing in my opinion should be closer to 1160 - 1180g unless the rims come in underweight (sometimes they do and sometimes they don't).

[Argos]

I would say the reliabilty/durbility issue has a TON to do with the build as well as the rider. Care for, as well as riding technique.

That aside, I would imagine that you can get faster, better service from ZIPP being based here. I have had Eric build me a set and one rim came in not to his liking. He took a digital photo and they had one in the mail the same day to him as he sent the other back. Mind you, he's got a relationship.

As to the weights, he's also got a scale.

[benross]

Forget trying to do a custom build with DT hubs or any other hubs for that matter. Zipp hubs are simply the most efficient hubs with the lowest rolling resistance of any hub available due to their bearing quality. Oh, and they are incredibly light as well. Check out this link for information about their hubs http://www.zipp.com/products/hubs/documents/Anoteonhubs.pdf. I weigh around 180 myself (a recovered Clydesdale), and put a tremendous strain on my equipment as I sometimes hit 1600 watts sprinting. However, for the past two years I have raced on Zipp 303 tubulars (road races and crits) with no problems whatsoever. I only ride them during my pre-race ride one day prior to races and on race day, so I can't speak for everyday use, but then again you asked about a race wheel, and that is what we are talking about here (or should be). This is unadulterated speed in a high precision, lightweight, and durable package. There is no reason to look further for ways to tweak the wheels - they are designed by some of the best engineers in the industry to be ready to go just as they are. I doubt that any of us can exceed their engineers' abilities to match components (hubs, spokes, etc) to produce a better wheel than what they offer.

I'm sure the Reynolds are fine wheels, however I would spend the extra $300 and get the best race wheel you can buy. And yes, the Zipps are just as good as the Lightweights, only at less than half the price. Go for the Z3's if you wanna go nuts with cash hemorrhaging.

Enjoy your new Zipp's.

[Argos]

I value what you are saying, but I do find one thing odd.

You have two posts on this forum. Both say the exact same thing.....

your above post.... and this one....

http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?p=122467#post122467

It stands out for it's...... Exuberance.

I, too, own stock 303's, sorry eric, but, BenRoss, we're discussing options, and I know many people that have had Hub problems with Zipp. Not Bearing problems, but Hub Problems.

We'd love to hear more from you, on a broader range of topics. I am sure my fellow forumites also welcome your opinions on non-Zipp related issues.

[ergott]

The rims are lighter, but I don't agree that Zipp 280 rims are as reliable. Your weight listing in my opinion should be closer to 1160 - 1180g unless the rims come in underweight (sometimes they do and sometimes they don't).

I've NEVER had a rim come back to me unless it was damaged from excessive impact. I've never heard a negative review of the rims themselves elsewhere either. The wheels I mentioned were weighed on a gram scale by me. I'ts very possible to have the same wheelset come in at 1160 - 1180g, but that's not what I measured.

[divve]

I would say the reliabilty/durbility issue has a TON to do with the build as well as the rider. Care for, as well as riding technique.

That aside, I would imagine that you can get faster, better service from ZIPP being based here. I have had Eric build me a set and one rim came in not to his liking. He took a digital photo and they had one in the mail the same day to him as he sent the other back. Mind you, he's got a relationship.

As to the weights, he's also got a scale.

I guess my experience differs from yours. The build isn't in question here. It's the reliability of the actual rims. Zipp indeed has decent service. The problem is that you have to often use it.

I got a gram scale too. :banana:

Here's an almost identical Zipp 280/DT build: 1208g (deduct about 21-22g for 4 less spokes in the rear).
http://www.rouesartisanales.com/album-19335.html

[Tom Kellogg]

On the rare occasions that I have had to ask Zipp for help with a rim or wheel, they have ALWAYS been as good as it gets. FAST and correct. Never a hassle.

As far as quality goes, I do believe that the Reynolds rims are nicer. Of course for the MUCH higher price, you might expect that. The Reynolds rims seem to be truer out of the mold, they have smoother (less wavy) sidewalls and they are more crunch resistant to pot holes.

On the other hand, Zipps are easier to build with and service. The Reynolds inverted nipples, while stronger, are a pain in the butt. Of course my original KOM front wheel (an early pre-production) has never needed even a tweak to a nipple.

[Jeff N.]

Tom, I sure like the new Merlin Extralight. Did you have anything to do with them dropping that ridiculous integrated headset? By dropping that, I think both Merlin and Litespeed will make a "comeback". Jeff N.

[mdeeds71]

Are the zipp wheels a true carbon braking surface that require the cork or do they do the same as Reynolds and use a scrim that can and is recommended to use a regular kool stop black...I really need the ability/reliability of brake actions on the west coast...not the most confident down hill rider but understand the limitations....

I was leaning towards the reynolds since they seem to have some of the best brake feel/action out ther since the outer brake wall is not the standard carbon used in the rest of the wheel.

[ergott]

On the rare occasions that I have had to ask Zipp for help with a rim or wheel, they have ALWAYS been as good as it gets. FAST and correct. Never a hassle.

As far as quality goes, I do believe that the Reynolds rims are nicer. Of course for the MUCH higher price, you might expect that. The Reynolds rims seem to be truer out of the mold, they have smoother (less wavy) sidewalls and they are more crunch resistant to pot holes.

On the other hand, Zipps are easier to build with and service. The Reynolds inverted nipples, while stronger, are a pain in the butt. Of course my original KOM front wheel (an early pre-production) has never needed even a tweak to a nipple.

I've serviced a total of ONE Reynolds wheel so take it for what its worth. A KOM wheel came in that was a little out of true and I needed to loosen a nipple. I proceeded to loosen it a quater of a turn when that horrible sound that carbon emits when it fails filled the room. Crack! The nipple came through the rim. This wheel had less than 100 miles and was about as new as you can get. I had three people around me that could verify this account.

Again, this is only one account and shouldn't be taken as a normal event. Reynolds did immediatly offer to replace the whole wheelset for free. They definetly back up their product, but that did scar my impression of their build. Not fair to them, but everyone has options.

[mdeeds71]

Just got off the phone with both reynolds and zipp...more help from reynolds...recommended at my weight I stay away from the KOM but all DV and MV models are good...even can get additional spoke counts if needed...but not necessary.

zipp pretty much the same but not as interested in my use and application or my profile...had to tell them my weight and they said I did not need the clydsdale wheels.

Both look great as options but for the cost the Reynolds looks like it will get the nod...I have yet to have one of there forks to fail...

Now the decision is the Mid V or DV model...now it is down to weight and all around application.

Looks like some Tufu tires with the tape is the direction I will go. WIll also try the tufu "clincher" tub on the open pros here shortly.

[ergott]

Just got off the phone with both reynolds and zipp...more help from reynolds...recommended at my weight I stay away from the KOM but all DV and MV models are good...even can get additional spoke counts if needed...but not necessary.

zipp pretty much the same but not as interested in my use and application or my profile...had to tell them my weight and they said I did not need the clydsdale wheels.

Both look great as options but for the cost the Reynolds looks like it will get the nod...I have yet to have one of there forks to fail...

Now the decision is the Mid V or DV model...now it is down to weight and all around application.

Looks like some Tufu tires with the tape is the direction I will go. WIll also try the tufu "clincher" tub on the open pros here shortly.

Get the DV. Ben seems to like them because I always see them on his bike.
Tape is good.
Don't waste your time on the "clincher" tubs. There is no point. Heavy and still a clincher. Can't repair on the road. Has all the disadvantages of tubulars and clinchers combined!

[mdeeds71]

Good point...didn't think of the clincher tub that way...just never have tried a tubular...closest I have is the Vred. Fortezza...great ride so far but looking for the ultra fine tub ride now.

Now time to locate and obtain...have to be subversive with the psyops since the spousal unit can become for lack of a better term...insurgent...if she get intel on this. Must resort to the old career I once had ;)

[Zard]

I ride the DV Stratus at 200lbs. Wheels still true after six solid months of riding them. I am completely happy with them. Reynold's customer service is excellent - which is an important consideration in the off chance something goes wrong.

Now, for the tufo with tape idea. I went this same route when I first got my DV's. I am firmly convinced that while the tufo set up is durable and has the added benefit of automatic flat repair with the sealant they roll really slowly and will not give you that "tubular" feeling.

Do yourself a favor and spend a few extra dollars and buy any veloflex tubular. I am riding the veloflex carbon's and they have exceeded my expectations. I have a ton of miles on them without any signficant wear and no flats (knock on wood) and the ride is smooth, grippy, and everything that you are looking for in a tubular.

Forget the tape idea. just use some vittoria mastic. It is easy to apply, sets up quickly and when you do have to remove the tire you wont be left with the mess that the tape leaves. Anyone that has tried to clean the tape residue off a rim knows what I mean.

[vaxn8r]

I own and have raced the Reynolds Stratus DV. Mine are custom in that they are laced to Record Hubs. Plenty stiff for me yet comfy (which surprised me). I could easily ride them all day. I weigh in at 185. They're solid....as well as a blast. Very fast.

Most racers around here prefer Reynolds over Zipps. Trying to remember why and I think it had to do with reliability. I have no first hand knowledge about that and it could have related to earlier Zipp products.

[Redturbo]

I've raced on both zipp 303's and reynolds dv's, you can't go wrong with either. :beer:

turbo

[Argos]

Gotta disagree with Zard. I ride the S-3 Lite 215's and 195's on all of my wheelsets. They are anything but "slow" when it comes to rolling. They are not the Cheapest Tufo, but we are not talking about cheap. We are talking about quality. They are much more durable then a Veloflex and just as fast.

[ergott]

Veloflex is on the top of my list. Round and very supple casing. Tufo is nice, but not in the same league in ride quality.

[Argos]

That is way too subjective. I find Tufo far superior. The veloflex tires are nowhere near as durable and do not ride faster or feel smoother.

You then repeat your opinion, then I repeat mine...

Tufo, Veloflex, Campy, Shimano, Petacchi, Boonen......

Everyone knows the answer is Cipolini! :D

[ergott]

That is way too subjective. I find Tufo far superior. The veloflex tires are nowhere near as durable and do not ride faster or feel smoother.

You then repeat your opinion, then I repeat mine...

Tufo, Veloflex, Campy, Shimano, Petacchi, Boonen......

Everyone knows the answer is Cipolini! :D

I said "my list". Works for me.

[Tom Kellogg]

Tom, I sure like the new Merlin Extralight. Did you have anything to do with them dropping that ridiculous integrated headset? By dropping that, I think both Merlin and Litespeed will make a "comeback". Jeff N.

Jeff:

I would love to take all the credit for the return to external headsets, and in fact my pressure did have something to do with it, but the reality was that even though Europe loved the internal version (and they still do), Americans never accepted them.

Are you referring to the '06 Extralight or the new Works bikes? The Extralight and most of the models that Merlin has been making for a number of years remain in the line (with traditional headsets) as "Classics." The "Works" frames are the new ones. I had nothing to do with the Works off road frames, but I have been working on the Works road frames for well over a year now. They don't look too much different than earlier Merlins, but they perform WAY beyond anything else we have done before.

Enough of that on this forum... Like I warned you, off topic.