Campy vs Shimano for Cross

[Brucer]

I've been thinking for a few years about getting a cross bike. This year, my wife gave me one for Christmas. (First time in 55 years that I've received a bike.) I prefer a Campy groupset, but since I don't know anything about cross bikes, I'm wondering if I should go with Shimano. (She included Ultegra Di2 in the package.) Any opinions? Thanks.

[thegunner]

I've been thinking for a few years about getting a cross bike. This year, my wife gave me one for Christmas. (First time in 55 years that I've received a bike.) I prefer a Campy groupset, but since I don't know anything about cross bikes, I'm wondering if I should go with Shimano. (She included Ultegra Di2 in the package.) Any opinions? Thanks.

if it were me, i'd sell the U Di2 and get what you prefer. plus campy's rebuildable :)

i'd save the electronic shifting for the road, but that's just me

[kgbianchi]

I am a big fan of campy for cx, the addition of a 12-27 cassette option on the 11 speed groups is a big plus. The ability to multi shift up and down is great!

[christian]

I love Campy, but if I were going to cheat, Ultegra Di2 on a cross bike would be the one. You can't go wrong here!

[bfd]

plus campy's rebuildable :)



Is this still true? I know 1st gen (pointy hood) and 2nd gen (round hood) Campy ergo levers are definitely rebuildable. But what about the latest 3rd gen (gumby hood) ergo levers? I thought the innards were like one piece and aren't really rebuildable. Either that or you have to buy the entire innards as one piece - read: more money.....any one know?

Btw, do you have a preference for Campy or Shimano or even Sram hoods? One of the first factors I look at is what shifter are you most comfortable with. If say you prefer Campy ergo shifting, then that should be your choice. If it doesn't matter, than get what you like, want or what's cheapest. Good Luck!

[thegunner]

Is this still true? I know 1st gen (pointy hood) and 2nd gen (round hood) Campy ergo levers are definitely rebuildable. But what about the latest 3rd gen (gumby hood) ergo levers? I thought the innards were like one piece and aren't really rebuildable. Either that or you have to buy the entire innards as one piece - read: more money.....any one know?

Btw, do you have a preference for Campy or Shimano or even Sram hoods? One of the first factors I look at is what shifter are you most comfortable with. If say you prefer Campy ergo shifting, then that should be your choice. If it doesn't matter, than get what you like, want or what's cheapest. Good Luck!

not 100% sure on the current gen stuff -- i'm still rockin' 10s chorus :P

[ultraman6970]

There are no internal parts to rebuild any of the 11 line unless you find a broken lever to get the parts from. The mechanism is different to the old 10 and might be less prone to problems IMO. Campy sells the assemblies now that arent that expensive tho. The guy who designed the 11 did a really good job.

[scrubadub]

Are you racing? If so, I wouldn't race Di2 unless you can afford to replace it.

For mixed terrain riding though I'm quite happy with my Ultegra Di2 setup.

[eippo1]

I know that I'm a sloppy racer and have nailed the rear dérailleur about 3 times and would doubt the durability of the electronics vs a tree one and big effin rocks twice.

[oldpotatoe]

Is this still true? I know 1st gen (pointy hood) and 2nd gen (round hood) Campy ergo levers are definitely rebuildable. But what about the latest 3rd gen (gumby hood) ergo levers? I thought the innards were like one piece and aren't really rebuildable. Either that or you have to buy the entire innards as one piece - read: more money.....any one know?

Btw, do you have a preference for Campy or Shimano or even Sram hoods? One of the first factors I look at is what shifter are you most comfortable with. If say you prefer Campy ergo shifting, then that should be your choice. If it doesn't matter, than get what you like, want or what's cheapest. Good Luck!

Last gen ERGO is shift assembly only but no shift springs or spring carrier in last gen so nothing really to 'wear out' or break. Shift assemblies are in the order of $80 for Centaur, Veloce or Athena, about $100 for Chorus. Body, shift assembly..no hood, brake lever, hbar clamp BUT some of us have stripped UltrasShift levers and do have some innards.

BUT I would do Veloce or Centaur. 10s stuff isn't as close together as 11s, so in the crappola, may want that.

[shovelhd]

Your wife has impeccable taste. Ui2 rocks.

[thirdgenbird]

Last gen ERGO is shift assembly only but no shift springs or spring carrier in last gen so nothing really to 'wear out' or break. Shift assemblies are in the order of $80 for Centaur, Veloce or Athena, about $100 for Chorus. Body, shift assembly..no hood, brake lever, hbar clamp BUT some of us have stripped UltrasShift levers and do have some innards.

BUT I would do Veloce or Centaur. 10s stuff isn't as close together as 11s, so in the crappola, may want that.

Agreed on all accounts. Separate internals are a non issue. They no longer seem to need service, and $100 for the assembly is a decent price. You won't be far off of that if you do a proper (springs, index gear, carier, thumb lever) rebuild on a gen1 or 2 yourself and it is likely cheaper than paying someone else.

If I were building a cross bike, I would use centaur. The money saved will be nice for wheels/tires/ repairs/broken stuff.

[bfd]

Agreed on all accounts. Separate internals are a non issue. They no longer seem to need service, and $100 for the assembly is a decent price. You won't be far off of that if you do a proper (springs, index gear, carier, thumb lever) rebuild on a gen1 or 2 yourself and it is likely cheaper than paying someone else.

If I were building a cross bike, I would use centaur. The money saved will be nice for wheels/tires/ repairs/broken stuff.

Thanks! I agree that $100 for a replacement assembly, if it is even needed, is not very much.

However, you said that a "proper" rebuild on a gen 1 or 2 lever requires springs, index gear, carrier and thumb lever. When I rebuild my gen 2 levers, I only replaced the spring carrier and g-springs at a cost of about $20. When do the index gear and/or thumb lever need replacing? Thanks!

[VA-Scooter]

I've been thinking for a few years about getting a cross bike. This year, my wife gave me one for Christmas. (First time in 55 years that I've received a bike.) I prefer a Campy groupset, but since I don't know anything about cross bikes, I'm wondering if I should go with Shimano. (She included Ultegra Di2 in the package.) Any opinions? Thanks.

I have Ultegra Di2 on a cross bike but do not race. I love it but would not want to pay that much to replace parts that might get damaged racing. The rear derailleur is pretty expensive. If not racing-Using it for a all round do everything bike as I am-It is great.

[thirdgenbird]

Thanks! I agree that $100 for a replacement assembly, if it is even needed, is not very much.

However, you said that a "proper" rebuild on a gen 1 or 2 lever requires springs, index gear, carrier and thumb lever. When I rebuild my gen 2 levers, I only replaced the spring carrier and g-springs at a cost of about $20. When do the index gear and/or thumb lever need replacing? Thanks!

Branford bike has some reccomedations on their site for these parts. It typically takes quite a few miles in my experience before they start to wear. I've not had a shifter fail because of these parts, but shifting isn't as snappy when the index gear wears and I've seen some sloppy thumb shifters. I was just trying to make an apples to apples comparison on rebuilds. It may cost more, but you are mitigating the chances of another failure by replacing the whole mechinism.

[oldpotatoe]

Thanks! I agree that $100 for a replacement assembly, if it is even needed, is not very much.

However, you said that a "proper" rebuild on a gen 1 or 2 lever requires springs, index gear, carrier and thumb lever. When I rebuild my gen 2 levers, I only replaced the spring carrier and g-springs at a cost of about $20. When do the index gear and/or thumb lever need replacing? Thanks!

In the 20 years I have been rebuilding these, I have never seen a index gear wear out. They are very hard steel. Thumb buttons only when they don't pivot anymore. Shift springs, spring carrier is what most need. NOT index gears and thumb buttons.

[thirdgenbird]

In the 20 years I have been rebuilding these, I have never seen a index gear wear out. They are very hard steel. Thumb buttons only when they don't pivot anymore. Shift springs, spring carrier is what most need. NOT index gears and thumb buttons.

Most is correct. I have had to replace a few thumb buttons and came across one index gear with noticeable wear but it still functioned. It was likely a lever that was never rebuild/lubeicated.

[Brucer]

Thanks for the observations. I'll not likely race, but will try out the cross bike on a course near my house. Since I'll be competing against myself, I can slow down enough to avoid trees and rocks, I hope. I prefer the feel of Campy levers and hoods and I like the thumb button, but the rear derailleur on one of my bikes, 2nd generation Record, seems a bit sensitive to mud and stuff after a ride on gravel. Doesn't that make it a bit dicey for using it on a cross bike? And I agree: my wife has great taste in bikes. Hopefully, husbands, too.

[ldamelio]

Not racing - put the Campy on and enjoy it. others are correct that the current stuff requires replacing all the 'innards' at about $100 - I've done it once following crash damage and once for a broken spring after about 7500 miles use miles on a set on the road. For cross racing, I would use Di2 as not having to worry about shift cables fouling in a muddy race without pit bike is a big plus. More expensive, of course, if you trash derailleur in a crash. If not going electric, SRAM is the goods for racing at this point - somewhat inelegant compared to Campy but very precise and holds up best in mud and muck of the mechanical groups. I'm a Campy-phile but give the nod to Sram for this application. I have Centaur 10 on one cross bike and Force/Red on the other at this point.

[Brucer]

I've only used SRAM shifters for about two weeks, and I never got used to them. I'm inclined to stick with Campy.

[sailorboy]

most folks would say you're crazy to race Di2 if you're paying for your own bikes in cross, but that said, destructive crashes are not that frequent in cross compared to say, a cat 4/5 office park criterium on a rainy day. You would also score major 'baller' points showing up as a novice with Di2 on your cross bike.

I'd be shifting more than necessary all over the course just cuz I could.

do it

[zennmotion]

I've been on campy shifters- shimano drivetrain for cross for years now and wouldn't have it any other way even with a new bike. Best of both worlds.
http://www.cxmagazine.com/shimano-campagnolo-ergopower-compatibility

[zennmotion]

I'll not likely race, but will try out the cross bike on a course near my house. Since I'll be competing against myself, I can slow down enough to avoid trees and rocks, I hope.

Record? Di2? For "cyclocross" = running around a park by yourself avoiding trees? This makes me sad :( Like a kid forced to play catch by hisself in full Yankee kit.

[Brucer]

I've been on campy shifters- shimano drivetrain for cross for years now and wouldn't have it any other way even with a new bike. Best of both worlds.
http://www.cxmagazine.com/shimano-campagnolo-ergopower-compatibility

Great article. Thanks.

[Brucer]

Record? Di2? For "cyclocross" = running around a park by yourself avoiding trees? This makes me sad :( Like a kid forced to play catch by hisself in full Yankee kit.

Hey, even Derek Jeter had to start somewhere. Besides, when you live in Toronto, you get used to teams that might as well play by themselves.

[sworcester]

Sorry, I am still stuck on you got a Di2 cross bike for Christmas.

I think the mechanical would be easier to repair (and less costly) but I seem to get rear ended and crash during my cross races.

[Brucer]

As Penelope Fitzgerald says somewhere, a man grows older and becomes patient instead of happy. With great patience I plan to become an unbelievably accomplished cross rider. I start two weeks from now.

[shovelhd]

Patience pays off in every kind of racing. Best of luck to you.

[AngryScientist]

at this point, when i think of cross bike components, i think cheap and readily available. depending on how you're riding it, it could be subject to getting dropped, in much less than ideal conditions.

if starting from scratch, my go-to cross set-up would be:

-centaur or veloce shifters.
-centaur or veloce fd+rd
-any shimano external bearing bottom bracket and crankset. 5700, 6700. alloy, cheap, easily replaced bottom brackets. i think a 5700 BB is easily <20 bucks.
-alloy bars/stem/post
-handbuilt wheels, record hubs

[oldpotatoe]

at this point, when i think of cross bike components, i think cheap and readily available. depending on how you're riding it, it could be subject to getting dropped, in much less than ideal conditions.

if starting from scratch, my go-to cross set-up would be:

-centaur or veloce shifters.
-centaur or veloce fd+rd
-any shimano external bearing bottom bracket and crankset. 5700, 6700. alloy, cheap, easily replaced bottom brackets. i think a 5700 BB is easily <20 bucks.
-alloy bars/stem/post
-handbuilt wheels, record hubs

I would agree(except for the race part, ain't gonna race). Same setup for road racing..cheap, if ya can't afford to replace it when ya crash, it's too expensive. NONE of this high zoot($$) stuff is going to make the difference between winning or losing.

BUT I'd use Velocity hubs...well made, inexpensive. But I guess when you are done running around in the mud with yer bike on your shoulder, you could use the wheels as road wheels.

[Brucer]

Thanks for all the suggestions. Some of them made me wish I still had a workshop. I've decided to stick with the Di2 set-up and see how it goes.