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Tony T
12-28-2012, 04:40 PM
Is there a preferred build order (i.e. 1. Seat, 2. Handlebars, 3. Crank)?
I'm thinking Seat/Handlebars, then Crank/Derailler, then Brakes, then the rest.

AngryScientist
12-28-2012, 04:59 PM
what do you mean by order?

the order in which you put parts on a new frame?

if so:

1) seatpost first, this is where my stand clamps.
2) headset pressed in
3) fork attached
4) stem and handlebars
5) shifters
6) fd+rd
7) brakes
8) cables (ugh!)
9) bb+crankset
10) install cassette on rear wheel
11) install rear wheel
12) chain
13) tune fd +rd (cable tension)
14) remove wheels, add rubber
15) adjust brakes (cable tension, centering)
16) wrap bars
17) pedals
18) bottle cages
19) saddle
20) pull bike out of stand, adjust saddle height
21) test ride, tune as needed.

fourflys
12-28-2012, 05:30 PM
Interesting as the cranks/bb is one of the first things I install after the headset and a stem to hold the fork on... Actually, bars/shifters are one of the last things I bolt on... Probably because of my intense dislike for running cables... :)

bargainguy
12-28-2012, 05:45 PM
I do bar tape last. If it's for me, I might even forgo bar tape until after a test ride to position brifters precisely without having to rewrap.

Reason for last: Sometimes hands grubby from the rest of the build, and I've been known to stain fresh tape as a result.

Then I go one step further to insure I don't touch said bar tape with plastic newspaper bags over the tape on each side in case I forget again and pull the bike down without washing up.

CNY rider
12-28-2012, 06:30 PM
Interesting as the cranks/bb is one of the first things I install after the headset and a stem to hold the fork on... Actually, bars/shifters are one of the last things I bolt on... Probably because of my intense dislike for running cables... :)

I put the BB in early too but hold off on the cranks so I have less of a chance of jabbing the teeth in my leg as I am moving around the bike working on it.

Bob Ross
12-28-2012, 07:04 PM
1) seatpost first, this is where my stand clamps.
2) headset pressed in
3) fork attached
4) stem and handlebars
5) shifters
6) fd+rd
7) brakes
8) cables (ugh!)
9) bb+crankset
10) install cassette on rear wheel
11) install rear wheel
12) chain
13) tune fd +rd (cable tension)
14) remove wheels, add rubber
15) adjust brakes (cable tension, centering)
16) wrap bars
17) pedals
18) bottle cages
19) saddle
20) pull bike out of stand, adjust saddle height
21) test ride, tune as needed.



Or, in my case:

1) take frame, components, wad of cash, & six-pack of beer to my favorite wrench
2) return a day or 2 later

nighthawk
12-28-2012, 07:14 PM
For me...

1) seatpost/saddle
2) headset/fork/stem/bars
3) bb/cranks
4) wheels/cassette
5) brake calipers
6) rd + FD
7) ergo levers / cables + housing
8) chain
9) bar tape
10) pedals/bottle cage

Or something to that affect. Mostly I just try to do the easy, no thinking stuff first, and save the housing cutting for almost last.

Tony T
12-28-2012, 08:06 PM
I put the BB in early too but hold off on the cranks so I have less of a chance of jabbing the teeth in my leg as I am moving around the bike working on it.

Good idea!

...and thanks guys for the tips. (Snow headed my way, so a good time to do my Ti build!)

pinkshogun
12-28-2012, 08:37 PM
i usually check rear dropouts first, then check rear triangle alignment without bb/crank installed because sometimes i put my foot on the bb for leverage. next, i put the fork in the jig to check up/down, side to side alignment as well as fork dropout alignment. i should note that i ride steel bikes which are highly tweakable

fourflys
12-28-2012, 09:19 PM
Good idea!

...and thanks guys for the tips. (Snow headed my way, so a good time to do my Ti build!)

my only advice is to not be in a hurry and, most importantly, when measuring/cutting your housing BE SURE you can turn the bars BOTH ways and still have enough cable... sounds silly, but if you don't do builds all the time this is an easy thing to forget... (did I mention I hate doing cables)...

you don't have to finish the build in one night... ;)

thegunner
12-28-2012, 09:24 PM
i usually check rear dropouts first, then check rear triangle alignment without bb/crank installed because sometimes i put my foot on the bb for leverage. next, i put the fork in the jig to check up/down, side to side alignment as well as fork dropout alignment. i should note that i ride steel bikes which are highly tweakable

I don't think most of us have jigs :D

David Kirk
12-28-2012, 09:39 PM
I've come up with a pattern over the years that works very well for me. I put together the sub assemblies first and then add everything to the frame set.

Remove all parts from packaging and lay out for inspection. Make sure you have all the right stuff

Wheels first - tires onto wheels, cassette onto hub, QR skewers.

Cockpit next - bars into stem, levers on bars.........saddle onto post.

Fork/headset - press h-set into frame and race onto fork. Dry fit fork into frame, spacers, stem........cut steerer, install bar/stem/lever combo.

Drivetrain - BB into frame, cranks into BB........pedals into cranks. Front derailleur, rear derailleur..........install wheels.....rough in rear der. set screws, install chain.

Brakes - install F&R calipers and adjust pads.

Cables - string all cables and adjust.

With bike on floor adjust h-set. Test ride, fine tune lever/bar position. Once everything is set tape bars.

Test ride followed by rechecking all critical fasteners.

Open a good porter (Anchor Steam) and enjoy a job well done.


---------------------------

This works very well for me and goes very quickly. Maybe it would work for you too.

Dave

jmeloy
12-28-2012, 09:55 PM
I'm with Bob.

Or, in my case:

1) take frame, components, wad of cash, & six-pack of beer to my favorite wrench
2) return a day or 2 later

572cv
12-28-2012, 10:04 PM
Open a good porter (Anchor Steam) and enjoy a job well done.


---------------------------

This works very well for me and goes very quickly. Maybe it would work for you too.

Dave[/QUOTE]

Everything just right, but slow down to savor the porter :beer:
You have to love the forum :beer:;)

Tony T
12-28-2012, 11:03 PM
my only advice is to not be in a hurry and, most importantly, when measuring/cutting your housing BE SURE you can turn the bars BOTH ways and still have enough cable... sounds silly, but if you don't do builds all the time this is an easy thing to forget... (did I mention I hate doing cables)...

you don't have to finish the build in one night... ;)

Yup! That's why I waited until it was too cold to ride to start the new build -- I have 2 months till it warms up again :)

carpediemracing
12-29-2012, 12:38 AM
I do bar tape last. If it's for me, I might even forgo bar tape until after a test ride to position brifters precisely without having to rewrap.

+1 I do tape last, usually after a few rides on the trainer, and sometimes even a ride or two on the road. I seem to be very good at installing one lever a slight bit higher than the other.

I assemble in the order that sort of resembles the order in which I expect to need to touch things later. The more likely I am to touch something the later it goes on the build. Although I do crank/BB early on it now violates that "touch" rule since I seem to regularly swap out crank stuff on my SRMs - arms, chainrings, or battery.

So:
- seat post so I can clamp the frame, Jumpstop if applicable.
- BB, headset, fork (I leave bar/stem off for a bit so they don't turn into the top tube, plus it's easier to put the front brake on with no bar/stem).
- Brake calipers, derailleurs
- bar/stem, wheels (at least the front wheel, to keep the fork pointing forward - I usually have my bike in a front-down tilt so that the fork doesn't flop, and I don't like any kind of system that locks the front end).
- Levers, cables. I use Nokons exclusively now so I can experiment with housing length - just add a few links if it's too short, etc. It's nice not worrying about cutting long enough or leaving something a cm too long.
- chain, adjust everything, cut cables long.
- test ride on trainer, wheel bike around to make sure I wasn't too aggressive with cable housing lengths. I usually do trainer rides a few times before wrapping, maybe 2-5 hours riding.
- cut/cap cables, wrap tape.

I (almost) never have new wheels when I build a bike so the wheels are already "done". On builds where I have new wheels (disc brake tandem as an example) I'll true/tension the wheels, check rim strip and hubs, whatever, all usually before I start the build.

Wilkinson4
12-29-2012, 08:00 AM
You can always do what the Italians do, posted before but good stuff.

http://www.teamlampreisd.com/videos/il-meccanico-ronny-baron-ci-illustra-come-si-monta-una-bici-dei-professionisti/

http://www.teamlampreisd.com/videos/il-meccanico-ronny-baron-ci-illustra-come-assemblare-una-bici-dei-professionisti-2%c2%b0-parte/

mIKE

oldpotatoe
12-29-2012, 08:01 AM
Or, in my case:

1) take frame, components, wad of cash, & six-pack of beer to my favorite wrench
2) return a day or 2 later

Brilliant!!

I don't drink the brew until done with the bike.

HS/fork/stem
BB
Crank
Ders
Brakes
wheels on
Hbars on/Level handlebars
Chain
cable it-ders first, then the brakes

cages/tape last.

jamesau
12-29-2012, 11:39 AM
I seem to be very good at installing one lever a slight bit higher than the other.

I like to install/align the levers with bar off the bike. By placing the bar on a flat table it seems much easier to get both levers adjusted symmetrically.

mcteague
12-29-2012, 11:47 AM
Brilliant!!

I don't drink the brew until done with the bike.

HS/fork/stem
BB
Crank
Ders
Brakes
wheels on
Hbars on/Level handlebars
Chain
cable it-ders first, then the brakes

cages/tape last.

This is my process to the t. Except for the beer.

Tim