Sufficient Rust Removal on Serotta CRL

[AndreasM]

All -

If I could get some expert eyes on the photo of the stay+dropout connection post rust removal - look a bit grimy before cleaning, but now doesn't seem to be too structural, if at all, just roughed it up a bit.

I'd like to know how complete of removal I achieved here. Good job or keep at it?

Thanks,
Andreas

[AndreasM]

i'm planning on giving it the clear nail polish treatment afterwards, not leave bare...

[Ralph]

I still see rust.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-gallon-evapo-rust-rust-remover-96431.html

I work part time in a shop that restores classic cars....average job usually about $150,000.....and we use a lot of this first....then grind and sand. There are other brands that ndo same thing.

[AndreasM]

is the rust the tiny bits of green? I got the obvious brown/red crust out. Surprising how little I know about rust when I actually engage with it.

Thanks Ralph for responding

[Ralph]

I would get it to raw steel...like new metal. Then acid wash it to kill any rust from forming again. Then paint.

[esldude]

Naval Jelly would work on something that size pretty well.

I have not tried it, but seen pictures and molasses actually works very well. You can buy feed grade molasses pretty cheap. I think it is slow. But Google molasses and rust removal for all the tips on going that route.

http://www.homercidal.com/molasses/ One description of it.

You also could go the electrolysis route.

[Peter P.]

If you don't see shiny metal, you haven't removed the rust. That doesn't look finished yet.

I'd start with a chemical rust remover like Naval Jelly, then finish with a small wire wheel using a Dremel Tool. Absent the Dremel Tool, progressively finer grades of sandpaper.

[vav]

Rust; before and after: http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=119687

Like others said, it seems rust is still there.

[AndreasM]

thanks everyone, I'll keep at it.

Once is bare, I was going to go clear nail polish... though now I imagine there are other more official methods.

Thoughts?

[Dave Wages]

It's kinda hard to see from the angle/lighting of your photo, but it looks like there's some pitting from the rust that you've got there? I think the green stuff is primer, fwiw. I guess if I were doing this, I'd use some 80grit emery cloth, back it up with a file and work that area over until it's flat and no more pitting or rust. If you do this, it's probably going to scuff up a bit more area than you have now, but you don't want to leave any rust in there, it'll propagate pretty quickly.

As for covering it up, it looks like the frame is silver? If it were me, I'd try to get some primer on that and then rattle can some silver spray paint, I think that would protect the area quite a bit better than nail polish which I have a feeling is going to get rubbed off that area pretty quickly. You could also try model paint and just use a brush if you don't want to deal with overspray from the Rustoleum!

I don't have any experience with the rust removal chemicals, but my only concern would be that stuff getting under your existing paint and compromising what you've already got. I really don't know if this could/will happen, but something to think about.

My two bits.
Dave

[AndreasM]

I see what you're saying. Since that photo I've brought it quite a bit closer to raw metal, but there is some pitting which the brass wool won't get.

I think I'll grab some clear enamel tomorrow for when its ready. the nail polish like you said, is suspect and the spot is way bigger now. Wear it like a scar I guess, I'll send it to Serotta for a professional job another day and another few paychecks later...