Rear fender advice for a singlespeed

[Llewellyn]

I plan to use my singlespeed as a winter bike and naturally I want to fit fenders. But it looks to me that if I install a rear fender, I'm going to have to take it off before I can take the rear wheel off if/when I get a flat. Is this just something I'll have to live with, or am I missing something?

I guess one alternative would be to use one of those fenders that clip to the seatpost, that wouldn't be as effective as a proper fender but it wouldn't need to be removed each time.

What do you guys do for rear fenders on fixies or singlespeeds?

[coylifut]

get an extra set of safety release fasteners that are found on the front of sks fenders. use them on the rear.

http://www.jensonusa.com/!7O2ZyWS9f9PBZQRWLS-ChQ!/SKS-Front-Fender-Breakaway-Mounts

[beercan]

raceblades

[dogdriver]

Its a seat post mount (the front mounts with a jam nut in the bottom of the steer tube), but I'm a big fan of the Topeak Defender:

http://www.topeak.com/products/Fenders/DeFenderM1_M2_Set

$12.00 per wheel, and stops the crud from the wheels if you angle them correctly...

[EricEstlund]

Add a link to your chain.

[11.4]

Coylifut already has the easiest solution. I've done that several times. Alternatively, get some better fender hardware from Jitensha and cobble up a much nicer quick-release system for your fender.

Actually, all you have to do is put an extra inch or so of fender clearance on the back side of the wheel. Just enough so you can slide the wheel back and drop it out. Another link won't change matters, unless it puts your wheel at the very back of the slot so it hardly has to move before it drops down. However, if you plan on having a flip-flop double-fixed or fixed-free, you'll need the use of the whole slot length.

I sometimes use Raceblades on a fixie, just for convenience, but be sure to add Buddyflaps front and rear to keep the spray down -- they are pretty short. Also, I'd suggest you get the larger Raceblades, the ones that fit not 18-23 mm tires but 25-32 or something like that. Even with smaller tires, they simply work better with less chafing and adjustment and keep more spray off you.

[oldpotatoe]

I plan to use my singlespeed as a winter bike and naturally I want to fit fenders. But it looks to me that if I install a rear fender, I'm going to have to take it off before I can take the rear wheel off if/when I get a flat. Is this just something I'll have to live with, or am I missing something?

I guess one alternative would be to use one of those fenders that clip to the seatpost, that wouldn't be as effective as a proper fender but it wouldn't need to be removed each time.

What do you guys do for rear fenders on fixies or singlespeeds?

Trim the tail so you can get the wheel out...it doesn't really do anything anyway, in terms of keeping yer butt dry.

[Fixed]

Its a seat post mount (the front mounts with a jam nut in the bottom of the steer tube), but I'm a big fan of the Topeak Defender:

http://www.topeak.com/products/Fenders/DeFenderM1_M2_Set

$12.00 per wheel, and stops the crud from the wheels if you angle them correctly...

Clever
Cheers my bike may get that thanks :)

[Ti Designs]

On behalf of all who will draft you over the winter, I would like to say thank you.

[William]

On behalf of all who will draft you over the winter, I would like to say thank you.

What, you don't like mud, oil, and flattened road kill sprayed up into your face when pacelining???? HTFU!!!!;);):D






William

[danielpack22@ma]

I have these on a couple of my fixies and they work ok.
http://www.excelsports.com/image/SKS%20X3%20Xtra%20Dry%20Quick%20Release%20Rear%20F ender.jpg

They need a mud flap to be more effective for those drafting. But for just me, I've avoided having the tell-tale skunk back on several very wet/muddy rides.

Of course they do little/nothing to keep crud off of my bikes.

[Likes2ridefar]

I have these on a couple of my fixies and they work ok.
http://www.excelsports.com/image/SKS%20X3%20Xtra%20Dry%20Quick%20Release%20Rear%20F ender.jpg

They need a mud flap to be more effective for those drafting. But for just me, I've avoided having the tell-tale skunk back on several very wet/muddy rides.

Of course they do little/nothing to keep crud off of my bikes.

I've used this exact model for a few years and it's great. very easy off/on and it does it's job.

[one60]

this full coverage fender set is designed for road frames with tight clearances.

They install easily, don't require eyelets and are rattle-free. They work as well as my full coverage metal fenders without all the fuss. Don't let the fact that they are plastic concern you, these are far superior to SKS raceblades (and such).

As for removing the rear wheel, from my experience they are flexible enough for that not to be an issue.

(they can even be painted to match...ventus cycles had them on his NAHBS frame last year)

[11.4]

I heartily +1 all the comments about having a rear fender that goes down the back of the wheel and adds a Buddyflap so it's only 2-3 inches from the ground. If you really want to ride alone and don't mind anyone getting sprayed who approaches from behind, then don't worry about it. If you're going to be in a paceline or group of any kind and you don't do this, you aren't being courteous or you simply want to be a wheelsucker that sits on the back. You might have to compete with another one or two of them back there, so you can get your own taste of the grit. Don't mean to sound nasty, but one rider like that ruins a paceline or group ride. It may not be as much of a problem in some parts of the country, but in wetter parts a proper fender setup is essential. Around here, on the team rides, you get ejected if you don't have proper rear fender coverage.

[Llewellyn]

Thanks for all the replies, all very helpful. Ill be riding alone so there won't be anyone in a paceline that needs to get worried about copping a spray.

[that guy]

I assume you mean with track dropouts? If so, I've never had much trouble getting the wheel in. Unless you have the fender slammed all the way down on the tire and the wheel all the way forward in the dropouts when riding, there is usually room to pull the wheel out. I recommend at least trying it before you start buying lots of other stuff.

[coylifut]

I'm telling ya, if you want a proper fender all it takes is two plastic sks clips. about a $6 additional investment. you'll rarely get a flat, but when you do, you'll have all the clearance you need to slide the wheel out backwards. take it from the seattle and portland guys. we know fenders. seat post fenders are worthless for real rain. the wheel throws water and grime all over the back of your legs.

[keevon]

Around here, on the team rides, you get ejected if you don't have proper rear fender coverage.
This is the type of ride I want to join.

[rustychisel]

f***kin' fenders? It never rains here anyway. Haven't owned a set of mudguards since I was in high school.

[Llewellyn]

f***kin' fenders? It never rains here anyway. Haven't owned a set of mudguards since I was in high school.

Absolutely, given how little rain we've had in the last couple of years it's probably a moot point anyway!

[Llewellyn]

........ before you start buying lots of other stuff.

What sort of attitude is that :eek: ;) :)

[11.4]

f***kin' fenders? It never rains here anyway. Haven't owned a set of mudguards since I was in high school.

f***kin' Australians.

When they come to Seattle, they melt.

[d_douglas]

There's nothing better for the $$. Those seat post ones and crud catcher ones have nothing on SKS.

I need to mod my own for my disc'd Commuter but well worth it.

[rustychisel]

f***kin' Australians.

When they come to Seattle, they melt.

:):)

Nah, we coalesce and get salty. :bike:

[cnighbor1]

I plan to use my singlespeed as a winter bike and naturally I want to fit fenders. But it looks to me that if I install a rear fender, I'm going to have to take it off before I can take the rear wheel off if/when I get a flat. Is this just something I'll have to live with, or am I missing something?

I guess one alternative would be to use one of those fenders that clip to the seatpost, that wouldn't be as effective as a proper fender but it wouldn't need to be removed each time.

What do you guys do for rear fenders on fixies or singlespeeds?

Mount a rear rack cover top of rack with a thin wood cover
works just has could has a fender

[William]

I'm telling ya, if you want a proper fender all it takes is two plastic sks clips. about a $6 additional investment. you'll rarely get a flat, but when you do, you'll have all the clearance you need to slide the wheel out backwards. take it from the seattle and portland guys. we know fenders. seat post fenders are worthless for real rain. the wheel throws water and grime all over the back of your legs.

Yep, when I lived in Oregon my dedicated Winter training bike had fenders. I was a must for the sake of your training partners and to prevent skunk striping. Harry Phinney used to cut old water bottles length wise and attach it to the end of his fenders so it almost touched the ground. People liked riding on his wheel.;)





William

[bironi]

I heartily +1 all the comments about having a rear fender that goes down the back of the wheel and adds a Buddyflap so it's only 2-3 inches from the ground. If you really want to ride alone and don't mind anyone getting sprayed who approaches from behind, then don't worry about it. If you're going to be in a paceline or group of any kind and you don't do this, you aren't being courteous or you simply want to be a wheelsucker that sits on the back. You might have to compete with another one or two of them back there, so you can get your own taste of the grit. Don't mean to sound nasty, but one rider like that ruins a paceline or group ride. It may not be as much of a problem in some parts of the country, but in wetter parts a proper fender setup is essential. Around here, on the team rides, you get ejected if you don't have proper rear fender coverage.

I live in western Washington, and I am known locally as the Fender Nazi.

[one60]

the crud road racer is a full fender set designed to be long enough front & rear to not require a buddy flap.

No issues with road spray in the paceline. And I'm in Seattle!

[mossman]

what about a rear track hub like a paul, phil, profile, etc that is bolt-on rather than axle and 15mm nuts? just unbolt the hub and drop down...or am I missing something? no experence with those hubs.

I wouldnt want to bend out a wheel from under metal fenders...and those sks qr's are of no use.

[coylifut]

what about a rear track hub like a paul, phil, profile, etc that is bolt-on rather than axle and 15mm nuts? just unbolt the hub and drop down...or am I missing something? no experence with those hubs.

I wouldnt want to bend out a wheel from under metal fenders...and those sks qr's are of no use.

Yes. You are missing something. The wheel exits the fork end rearwards. If there's a full fender, it can interfere with removing the wheel. The SKS qr's absolutely work for the above application. I've been using them for more than a decade. You simply pull it out and push it back in. I know that cyclists aren't known for their feats of strength, but even the girls I've ridden with can handle this one.

[soulspinner]

get an extra set of safety release fasteners that are found on the front of sks fenders. use them on the rear.

http://www.jensonusa.com/!7O2ZyWS9f9PBZQRWLS-ChQ!/SKS-Front-Fender-Breakaway-Mounts

Thats what I used on my Strong. They work.

[oldpotatoe]

This is the type of ride I want to join.

Mee too, bike guys aren't serious enough, need to start ejecting people from riding groups.

[dogdriver]

Me (e) three. I'd be ashamed to ride in any group I could keep up with.

Besides, too wimpy to ride in the rain on the road. If there's snow, Pugsley. If its cold, mtb, gym, or TV. Kudos to you year-around roadies/commuters/all wx riders!

[mossman]

Yes. You are missing something. The wheel exits the fork end rearwards. If there's a full fender, it can interfere with removing the wheel. The SKS qr's absolutely work for the above application. I've been using them for more than a decade. You simply pull it out and push it back in. I know that cyclists aren't known for their feats of strength, but even the girls I've ridden with can handle this one.

thanks but I understand how track ends work. my question is whether an allen bolt-on hub like a phil, paul would simply drop out of the track end if one were to simply remove the allen bolt entirely from each side. The chain would still be on the cog, but thats no prob. I ask because I am not familiar with those hubs.

and sks fender qr is all fine with plastic fenders, but I do not see how one can easily use that system with honjos, berthoud, or vo metal fenders. With those fenders, they are not a solution. and yanking the wheel out doesnt seem like a good idea with metal fenders.

[coylifut]

thanks but I understand how track ends work. my question is whether an allen bolt-on hub like a phil, paul would simply drop out of the track end if one were to simply remove the allen bolt entirely from each side. The chain would still be on the cog, but thats no prob. I ask because I am not familiar with those hubs.

and sks fender qr is all fine with plastic fenders, but I do not see how one can easily use that system with honjos, berthoud, or vo metal fenders. With those fenders, they are not a solution. and yanking the wheel out doesnt seem like a good idea with metal fenders.

not without spreading the triangle at least 1/2 cm on each side. the axel still supports/rests on the fork ends. getting it out is easier than putting it in.

take it form 11.4 and souspinner. if you want a proper full size fender the sks tabs work great.

[11.4]

First of all, contact Jitensha in Berkeley. You can get all kinds of interesting hardware for Honjo fenders that lets you make them effectively quick release -- or at most, just need one allen key on one bolt. Same hardware (at least the stainless versions) works great on Berthouds and others.

Second, I'm thinking about the suggestion of using allen-bolt rear hubs and simply pulling the bolts. I haven't actually tried it yet, but the faces that contact the inside of the stay end, at least for Phils, is flat. The flange that helps center things is on the machined washer that slides onto the allen bolt, so when that's gone, then yes, the hub should just drop out. I actually have to try it, and I don't have one of my fixies or track bikes with me for a few days. But jeez, out of the mouths of fixie newbies.