Mounting tubular tires

[toaster]

Is this a tough job? what about changing a tubular on the road?

Any links to more info?

[dirtdigger88]

Parktool's (http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=101) Website has some good info on mounting-

Roadside repairs are much the same- only mor temporary :D

Jason

[Too Tall]

Jason headed you in the right direction. Also read up at www.nimble.net, good stuff.

It is not difficult and with learned skills changing tubulars on the road is easy. You have many fans of tubulars here on Serotta Forum and might "search" for past topics.

GLAD to help :)

Friends don't let friends ride clinchers.

[ergott]

Parktool's (http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=101) Website has some good info on mounting-

Roadside repairs are much the same- only mor temporary :D

Jason


Stupid mind readers :crap:

[Too Tall]

Jinx

[toaster]

Thanks for the excellent links.

Is the Continental Sprinter an overall favorite? What about the Vittoria Rally? The Conti Giro? I'm not looking for a race tire yet just a good, durable training tire.

[djg]

Is this a tough job? what about changing a tubular on the road?

Any links to more info?

I was off of tubbies for a while, and haven't had to change a flat on the road since coming back, but I don't imagine that anything has changed. It's easier on the road, in that you're doing a temporary job with, typically, no extra rim or tire prep. You pull off the old tire, pull on the new one, inflate and ride. Because the tire isn't properly glued, you take it easy in corners, etc. Because there's still a little adhesion (old glue and a tack layer on the spare), and largely because of air pressure, the tire should stay on just fine if you don't push it. When you get home, you need to glue the spare (or a different one) properly.

The whole operation is much easier if your spare is actually ready to go on--use a pre-stretched spare and it will go on much easier. I also was taught to have a light coat of rim cement already on the spare, ready to go.

[ergott]

Thanks for the excellent links.

Is the Continental Sprinter an overall favorite? What about the Vittoria Rally? The Conti Giro? I'm not looking for a race tire yet just a good, durable training tire.

Good tires (in alphabetical order so as not to offend anyone) :D
Conti Sprinter (Giro sucks)
Tufo (215, S22)
Veloflex (Crit or Carbon)
Vittoria (Rally sucks by the way) get the Corsa
Zipp (only one model made in the same factory as Vittoria)

Cheap tubulars are worse than clinchers and give the whole tubular experience a bad name. Don't bother. You can get good deals on the avboe tires if you do a little hunting.

[LegendRider]

My favorite Tufo tubular is the Elite Road.

[Too Tall]

What Ergott said, excellent recommends. I like the sprinters because they ride darn nice, wear like iron and I can get them for about $32 if I buy 10 at a time. Talk to the nice folks at world class cycles.

[KevinK]

I recently bought a used pair of sew-up wheels, and the previous owner used Tufo Tape. I never had such a hard time getting the darn tire of of the rim! This was at home and I nearly resorted to taking a knife to the tire to cut it off. I can't imagine having to change a tire on the road with Tufo tape. I use Vittoria or Panaracer cement. I also highly recommend the Conti Sprinters. If you want something even more inexpensive, the Clement Strada TT that Yellow Jersey sells 3/$50 is pretty darn good for training and commuting.

Kevin

[Too Tall]

Hey Kevin, I still have 3 or 4 of the Clement Stradas from Yellow Jersey. You, myself and I think Oracle are using them for rough duty. I still dig them with a caveat. The basetape ain't all that. If you get the soaked than watch for problems. Everything was OK once I fixed them with some liquid latex.

[Fixed]

bro I thought everybody here knew about tubs if it's your first time it ain't goin to be pretty can be kinda messy don't do it in the house or your wife will might get mad cheers :beer: l

[divve]

The Parktool site has good general info. However, use the Vittoria Mastik'One instruction on the can for applying the glue and dry time. It doesn't take nearly as long and is nuke proof. After some drying time remove whatever excess on rim or tire with naphtha. Also, take a tire lever with you on a ride or you'll never be able to remove a properly glued tubular.

[Keith A]

So does anyone have a favorite glue for tubulars?

[Fixed]

bro the only thing I can get at my shop is tubatsi I just got through glue'n a conti sprinter on a reflex rim. cheers :beer:

[MRB]

[QUOTE=toaster]Is this a tough job?

Toaster,

I have not read the links, which I would guess are pretty thorough. But here are my recommendations:

1. Pre - stretch the tires on an old set of rims.

2. Use clear glue. I like 3M fast-tack adhesive, which you can find at a hardware / industrial supply store. Apply a layer to both surfaces, let them get tacky.

3. Use gloves and bare feet. Gloves keep your hands clean, and bare feet allow you to use your feet to hold the wheel down while you stretch it over the last bit, in the upwards direction.

Good Luck It's worth the effort!!

[Too Tall]

I've been using Panaracer glue. It is clear and works great in hot weather...stays tacky even after a few months...all good.

DEWD!!! Watch you fanny with that 3m Fastack. They recently changed the formulation and it is EATING basetape cement!!!! Not kidding. I got that info. direct from a very reliable source. Old tubes should be OK but I do not have a product date to reference so buyer beware. Test your glue on an old tire first.

[Argos]

Kev,

Deep Breaths. Here is tip for changing with the tubular tape if you are having problems.....

I carry one (1) tire iron. I shove the spoon side between the tape and the rim and push it through so it is equi-distant on both sides. I rock it back and forth. Not slide it, ROCK it. So it pivots off of the sidewalls of the rim, levering the far side of the tire up from the half you are pushing down.

This removes this area from contact. Then, with it loose, I slide it an inch or two, give it a quick Rock, and continue. Eventually (and quickly) there is enough slack so you can grip it with your hand, then you are home free.

I can remove a tubular within 20-30 seconds like this.

This technique will work with Carbon wheels, too, but make sure you are not using a metal Tire Iron, and go a little more gentle when starting.

Start away from the Valve, too.

[loctite]

Good tires (in alphabetical order so as not to offend anyone) :D
Conti Sprinter (Giro sucks)
Tufo (215, S22)
Veloflex (Crit or Carbon)
Vittoria (Rally sucks by the way) get the Corsa
Zipp (only one model made in the same factory as Vittoria)

Cheap tubulars are worse than clinchers and give the whole tubular experience a bad name. Don't bother. You can get good deals on the avboe tires if you do a little hunting.

My pick for best tire: Conti Compitition. A bit more expensive, but man what a ride! Only use Conti glue, (i think Vittoria is the same) :rolleyes:

[divve]

Vittoria Mastik'One is quite different from Continental glue. It's most apparent when applied to carbon rims. The latter will break loose suddenly and rip clean off and not adhere anymore afterward.

[Keith A]

Vittoria Mastik'One is quite different from Continental glue. It's most apparent when applied to carbon rims. The latter will break loose suddenly and rip clean off and not adhere anymore afterward.So if I understand you correctly, you think the Vittoria Mastik'One is a better glue?

[divve]

For carbon rims I think so. On an aluminum rim it doesn't matter much. I've heard that Conti tires require Conti glue however, or the basetape may release due to incompatible solvents in other glues. I don't know whether there's an actual issue between them and Mastik though.

[loctite]

Vittoria Mastik'One is quite different from Continental glue. It's most apparent when applied to carbon rims. The latter will break loose suddenly and rip clean off and not adhere anymore afterward.

I didnt know they are different, i use conti glue however on allot of zipp carbon wheels, it holds great! It does however, come off clean when you rip the tire off, i doubt however that it will come off on its own if glued properly. TIP: after you mount a new tubular, strap it down to the rim with a rathceting cargo strap for 12 hours, really helps! :beer:

[toaster]

Another question:

Should I get an extra tubular rim (no spokes or hub, rim only) for stretching tires or to practice mounting new tires or changing flats??

[loctite]

Another question:

Should I get an extra tubular rim (no spokes or hub, rim only) for stretching tires or to practice mounting new tires or changing flats??

just a rim is too flexy, you can use a clincher for practice.

[Too Tall]

Junk rims are what you use to pre-stretch and store tubulars. In the best of worlds stick the whole mess into a plastic garbage bag. Tires not mounted (yet) on rims I store in tupperware.

Loctit - The strap is Zinn's "trick" non? Cute. I guess you center the tire with some air in it, deflate than strap it? What's your drill for this?

[Fixed]

bro I thought you just pump them up and leave them for a day I didn't know you had to tie them up too.even after 20 years you can learn something I guess.cheers :beer:

[loctite]

Junk rims are what you use to pre-stretch and store tubulars. In the best of worlds stick the whole mess into a plastic garbage bag. Tires not mounted (yet) on rims I store in tupperware.

Loctit - The strap is Zinn's "trick" non? Cute. I guess you center the tire with some air in it, deflate than strap it? What's your drill for this?

I learned it from an old mechanich.
1. Glue and mount

2. Slightly inflate and center.

3. Strap down around the tire

4. inflate to 100+ PSI.

The strap holds it tight untill the glue sets up.

[spiderman]

change from being pumped up off the rim
to being stretched and centered on the rim??

[Too Tall]

Storing them semi-inflated is just a way of keeping the creases out of them...not any sig. pressure...no change. Stretching them onto a junk rim however will do the job.