Experience with cheap mountain bikes?

[NHAero]

We have short commutes here on Martha's Vineyard. We're going to be moving a bit further from work for Jill, and she'll have a bit of single track on her route, which now is mostly dirt road (it will go from 3 miles to about 4-1/2 miles). She now rides a 20 year old low end Raleigh MTB, no suspension fork, and it's fine, but she really wants a suspension fork for this new commute.
I have been looking and see that on eBay I can buy a new Gravity Basecamp 2.0 MTB for $230 plus $39 shipping - link below. Nothing fancy, but all higher end than what she's riding now, and new.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2011-NEW-ALUMINUM-MOUNTAIN-BIKE-SHIMANO-LOCKOUT-DISC-15-/150932837266?pt=Mountain_Bikes&hash=item23244c5392

Any reason not to do this?

Thanks

[carlucci1106]

Any reason not to do this?

Thanks

Yes.

It's Martha's Vineyard.
That is an ugly mountain bike.
It is very low end/cheaply made
I can find you much better for the price.

It's Martha's Vineyard...

Ok maybe I can't find better on Ebay (on to RI Craigslist)... will let you know

[Mr Cabletwitch]

Buy This $300 plus shipping. Made in the USA, works great.

Gunnar (http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=117747&highlight=Gunnar)

[NHAero]

What's cheaply made, the frame?
What should I worry about - is it going to break?
Her old Raleigh was pretty low end and it hasn't broken yet :-)

Seriously - what does cheaply made mean in terms of the service I'm asking for?

Yes.

It's Martha's Vineyard.
That is an ugly mountain bike.
It is very low end/cheaply made
I can find you much better for the price.

It's Martha's Vineyard...

Ok maybe I can't find better on Ebay (on to RI Craigslist)... will let you know

[NHAero]

Was kinda hoping for a disc brake set-up. What's the total price shipped to 02575?
Thanks

Buy This $300 plus shipping. Made in the USA, works great.

Gunnar (http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=117747&highlight=Gunnar)

[swPArider]

Usually the suspension forks on those low end bikes are pure junk. They are put on those bikes more for looks than function. I'd just throw a big, high volume tire on your wifes bike and see if that makes a difference.

[Steve in SLO]

If you don't mind used, I have had great luck finding nice older bikes on Craigslist. I bought my son a ~2000 Stumpjumper for $100 and my daughter a nice Gary Fischer for $50. Some of the older LX/XT level components are bulletproof and run smoothly. If you hunt around you can find some real gems.

[NHAero]

Dawes Haymaker 1500
$350 shipped
Deore/Deore LX derailleurs
Alivio shifters
Tektro discs
Aluminum frame (no corrosion)
Formula sealed disc hubs

Item number: 130799290087

I'm seriously looking for why a bike like this won't give years of service - not looking for a serious MTB, she has a nice Stumpjumper Comp, just something to ride to work. I understand that the Gunnar has a nicer frame but help me understand why that matters on a daily commuter. Thanks.

[dancinkozmo]

What's cheaply made, the frame?
What should I worry about - is it going to break?
Her old Raleigh was pretty low end and it hasn't broken yet :-)

Seriously - what does cheaply made mean in terms of the service I'm asking for?

This is a great question, and i suspect, if people were really honest about it, the only thing "cheap" on this frame is the country of origin and name on the downtube.

[NHAero]

Hi Steve
No prejudice at all towards used, 4 of my 7 bikes were bought used. Craigslist is a great resource and it's how I found the Stumpjumper Comp she has, it was a great deal. However, living on an island makes it way harder to buy stuff that way - you don't just jump in your car and drive over. I have been watching the Cape and Island CL, but haven't seen a MTB with a small enough frame.

If you don't mind used, I have had great luck finding nice older bikes on Craigslist. I bought my son a ~2000 Stumpjumper for $100 and my daughter a nice Gary Fischer for $50. Some of the older LX/XT level components are bulletproof and run smoothly. If you hunt around you can find some real gems.

[rice rocket]

Usually the suspension forks on those low end bikes are pure junk. They are put on those bikes more for looks than function. I'd just throw a big, high volume tire on your wifes bike and see if that makes a difference.

Yeah, I found out this the hard way. :)

I would've been better served by a rigid fork than the pogostick I got.

[nooneline]

I think it's a lot less about the frame and more about heavy, junky components. You're talking bottom-of-the-barrel stuff that doesn't work particularly well when it's new and perfectly adjusted, let alone any time thereafter. Of particular concern is the POS fork and the POS brakes. No, they're not going to be dangerous or hurt anybody, but they're made to look like bike parts rather than to function as them.

Highly agree that one can find a very decent bike in the used market that's going to be way better than something new. I had a terrific singlespeed with a high-end alu frame that I got for $50. Fat tires, a 1-x-whatever-you-got setup, and some decent V-brakes and you have a good bike for your purposes.

Buy it right or buy it twice, and in this situation buying it right is cheaper, too.

[gdw]

Buy used. Mr Cabletwitch's bike is a real bargain at $300. The frame and wheelset are worth the asking price. Get some KoolStop salmon pads for the v-brakes if she will be riding in wet weather. Cheap disc brakes are more hassle than they're worth, same goes for the boat anchor of a fork they put on those budget models.

[oliver1850]

Usually the suspension forks on those low end bikes are pure junk. They are put on those bikes more for looks than function. I'd just throw a big, high volume tire on your wifes bike and see if that makes a difference.

this is what I would say. I ride a cheap old unsuspeded GT MTB around between farms. It's fine for the short distances I ride it. If she really wants something suspended, I'd try to find something higher quality used.

[EricEstlund]

but she really wants a suspension fork for this new commute.

I'm curious about this part.

In a non-pandering way, everything about that linked to bike is sub par. The components, the frame and the build are all pretty bad. Will it get her down the road? Absolutely, but from a "value" stand point you could to a lot better either on the used market or at local bike shops.

The bike you linked to will come with poor to no assembly, and the care with which it was put together will be close to nil. That isn't a slam- its the reality of trying to hit the price point. This is on par with box store bikes. The discs on it are at the very entry of entry points, and in all honesty a well adjusted canti or v brake will provide better and easier stopping. It's also concerning from a QC standpoint that they show two different frames in the add with the same model- my guess is there is a lot of substitution based on availability/price.

If you stretch you budget slightly and head to a local shop you will get a bike with better bits (both in the frame and parts) and the benefit of professional assembly and support. This should apply to both used and new bikes. For the similar money, you'll get a much better bike, and likely one that could last her another 20years of 3-4 mile commutes.

[NHAero]

Thanks all for your generous input. What level of Shimano MTB today is acceptable in your estimation?

[EricEstlund]

Alivio or Altus is fine stuff for your needs (not "good", but it will hold up and actually stay in adjustment). Avoid the stuff that just says "Shimano" or "SIS".

Avoid anything made by a brand you have never heard of or that you can't get in a shop.

If there is any bike where buying from a shop makes the MOST sense, it's an entry level bike. Less expensive parts are much harder to adjust out of the box and need a higher attention to detail on initial assembly to provide a maximal life span and proper function from the get-go.

If buying new, take a look at second tier brands like Raleigh or Jamis, and try to pick one up locally. If she can test ride a few and really dial in the fit you are maximizing the value of a slightly more expensive product.

[EricEstlund]

PS- Get something without riveted chain rings, even if you need to ay a bit more for the shop to make a sub for you. When the time comes to replace rings you'd otherwise have to scrap the whole crankset. At that price point it's not a huge $ issue, but it would be nice to only replace say the middle ring if it's the only one worn out.

[NHAero]

Maybe another approach is to add a suspension fork to the Raleigh. Any ideas where one finds a 1" threaded steerer, decent suspension fork - or am I dreaming? I haven't had much luck finding a good one on eBay.

[NHAero]

Thank you Eric.
I've been working on my own bikes for over 40 years now, I'm not too worried about that end of it. That Dawes I posted is Deore and Alivio equipped.
I'll check out what they have in the shops. Around here, there isn't a big move to discount bikes at season's end compared to places with more competition.

Alivio or Altus is fine stuff for your needs (not "good", but it will hold up and actually stay in adjustment). Avoid the stuff that just says "Shimano" or "SIS".

Avoid anything made by a brand you have never heard of or that you can't get in a shop.

If there is any bike where buying from a shop makes the MOST sense, it's an entry level bike. Less expensive parts are much harder to adjust out of the box and need a higher attention to detail on initial assembly to provide a maximal life span and proper function from the get-go.

If buying new, take a look at second tier brands like Raleigh or Jamis, and try to pick one up locally. If she can test ride a few and really dial in the fit you are maximizing the value of a slightly more expensive product.

[EricEstlund]

Odds are good that your current bike was not designed for a suspension fork, and probably shouldn't be equipped with one. The 1" threaded forks I am aware of would not provide a performance or comfort improvement for her type of riding.

For a short dirt commute, you may be better served with plush tires and a look at the general fit of the bike.

[NHAero]

Great point.
PS- Get something without riveted chain rings, even if you need to ay a bit more for the shop to make a sub for you. When the time comes to replace rings you'd otherwise have to scrap the whole crankset. At that price point it's not a huge $ issue, but it would be nice to only replace say the middle ring if it's the only one worn out.

[esldude]

Yeah, most MTB front suspension is too stiff to help much with comfort just riding dirt roads. Now riding over roots or fire roads paved with big crushed rock, yeah, it helps some. She might get more comfort benefit from a suspension seatpost combined with the bigger tires others have mentioned. Or possibly one of the comfort oriented bikes. They have softer front suspensions and usually a suspension seatpost.

[carlucci1106]

As the "first responder" to this narrowly averted bike "When keepin' it real goes wrong," I would like to say that I meant to offer sound advice more akin to what Eric Estlund said. But I also wanted to be funny. I PM'd the OP at the same time with the real advice. Eric just more eloquently and susinctly backed up what I said.

Gosh, it's tough to be a bike snob/expert. Because everything that leaves my lips must sound like I am just touting what I like to ride, but there REALLY ARE ***** BIKES, ppl! Working at a shop they think you are just selling your product over the big-box. But there is genuinely something wrong with putting hop-sing parts that look like high-end discs or forks on $200 bikes.

Other riders are constantly trying to convince me that their Avid mechanicals are better than my XTR V-Brakes. Um.... no contest. Way more stopping power and modulation in my brakes than cable-actuated. Fierce mud conditions? It's New Mexico, ppl.

But back on track-- others have said it well-- the entry level stuff is very hard to keep working very long if you are really riding off-road with the bike. I do all my own work, and I have managed to keep a 1997 Bianchi going with most of the original parts. All were top-of-the-line back then. My friends marvel at this who have been through 2 or 3 bikes since then. You know it's not rocket-science. High quality and good maintenance go a long way with MTBs.

So good luck NHAero. We want to see your wifey riding quality in the spring. And I mean 'quality' not "Schwinn Quality" :cool:

[old iron rider]

PS- Get something without riveted chain rings, even if you need to ay a bit more for the shop to make a sub for you. When the time comes to replace rings you'd otherwise have to scrap the whole crankset. At that price point it's not a huge $ issue, but it would be nice to only replace say the middle ring if it's the only one worn out.

You make perfect sense on all of the posts on this thread. I buy/ sell used bikes all the time. The things you point out are the very things I look for when buying. Sometimes I pull the trigger on a bike with low end cranks, and other hardware. But that bike better be in ready to sell condition, or it doesn't make it to my shop. I'm actually a bit more forgiving on a high end bike because I have more room to with. For example, I'll put a 105 derailer to replace a broken Ultegra, and still come out good. And so does the customer.;)

[old iron rider]

As the "first responder" to this narrowly averted bike "When keepin' it real goes wrong," I would like to say that I meant to offer sound advice more akin to what Eric Estlund said. But I also wanted to be funny. I PM'd the OP at the same time with the real advice. Eric just more eloquently and susinctly backed up what I said.

Gosh, it's tough to be a bike snob/expert. Because everything that leaves my lips must sound like I am just touting what I like to ride, but there REALLY ARE ***** BIKES, ppl! Working at a shop they think you are just selling your product over the big-box. But there is genuinely something wrong with putting hop-sing parts that look like high-end discs or forks on $200 bikes.

Other riders are constantly trying to convince me that their Avid mechanicals are better than my XTR V-Brakes. Um.... no contest. Way more stopping power and modulation in my brakes than cable-actuated. Fierce mud conditions? It's New Mexico, ppl.

But back on track-- others have said it well-- the entry level stuff is very hard to keep working very long if you are really riding off-road with the bike. I do all my own work, and I have managed to keep a 1997 Bianchi going with most of the original parts. All were top-of-the-line back then. My friends marvel at this who have been through 2 or 3 bikes since then. You know it's not rocket-science. High quality and good maintenance go a long way with MTBs.

So good luck NHAero. We want to see your wifey riding quality in the spring. And I mean 'quality' not "Schwinn Quality" :cool:

You ride a 97 Bianchi with top of the line stuff back then. Thats the key! Good parts on bicycles if taken care of will take a beating. Some of my road bikes are 15-20yrs old and alot of the parts on them are still like new. But, like you, I tear the bikes apart, clean, check, replace pads and cables, etc. And I have very few problems on my bikes.
As you have proven, it can be done. Given a choice of a new cheapie or a good quality used one{even a 1997 Bianchi}, I'd go used. Disk brakes on this matter is non important. To do the job you are asking {3-4 mi} rim brakes are more than up to the job.
.
.BTW - At one time,............................Schwinn Quality WAS quality. It's been scientifically proven that in a nuclear war, survivors would be rats roaches, and Schwinn Varsity bicycles.!! { I had to throw that out there.}:hello::hello:

[NHAero]

You all will be happy to know Mr Cabletwitch and I reached an agreement and Jill has been saved from having to experience Alivio :)

[dancinkozmo]

I put a 13 dollar 8 speed alivio rear derailler onmy mtb 4 yrs ago and it hasnt missed a beat....dont knock it till you try it !

[carlucci1106]

You all will be happy to know Mr Cabletwitch and I reached an agreement and Jill has been saved from having to experience Alivio :)

:banana: Oh thank you lord! Was it that On One bike? If so, that would be sweet indeed (PM'd you before seeing this). Glad it worked out. I knew someone in here would save you from low-end parts! Bike snobs prevail!

Just saw that it was the Gunnar Rockhound! True story I almost wanted to buy that just for the fact that it was a great deal (not because I needed it)> You're wife will LOVE that rig. Cheers!