Campy 11 Build

[Plum Hill]

A number of threads have appeared here concerning Campy 11 build tips.
Could anyone supply me with the threads that covered the subject?
I'm tired of searching.

Thanks.

[buldogge]

What kind of tips do you need?

Just like Campy 10s really...

-Mark in St. Louis

A number of threads have appeared here concerning Campy 11 build tips.
Could anyone supply me with the threads that covered the subject?
I'm tired of searching.

Thanks.

[maximus]

Some good step by step instructions on Bike Radar:

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-how-to-fit-campagnolo-ergo-levers-24781/

[dan682]

The first complete build I did by myself was with Campy 11 2 years ago. I found the Campy instructions to be very good. The helpful advice I got on here was:

Run the shifter cables on the back of the bar and brakes on the front.
Have the shifter cables cross under the downtube.
Keep the loop from the chainstay to rear derailleur pretty long to minimize friction.
Use the Campy cableset and don't use a ferrule on the side of the housing that goes into the levers.

I've done two more Campy builds since then and they've all worked great.


Dan

[thinpin]

Have the shifter cables cross under the downtube.
Can anyone explain the advantage here?

[Plum Hill]

I recall tips like putting cables in shifters before installing on bars; grease vs. Loctite on cups; slathering grease on bearings.
I do recall the Bike Radar video.
Right now I wonder who the idiot was that decided to use Tork fasteners instead of hex. Some marketing major, I guess.

By routing the right shifter cable housing to the left side of the downtube (and left to right), you can have a more flowing bend in the housing. Since the cables end up on the wrong side of the frame, you "correct" the issue by crossing the cables under the down tube.
I have had some frames (like a Cannondale) where the diameter of the downtube and the location of stops didn't allow for the cable cross because they dragged on the DT.

[buldogge]

I never cross them, personally. I have (6) 11s bikes, including some with modded 10s RDs. Most of the stuff you listed is not particular to 11s.

-The cables can be difficult to thread thru on the shifters with the new-style bodies (post 2008), so not a bad idea to do that.

-Grease and teflon tape, on UT cups, especially on ITA threads.

-Cables routed on the front and back of the bar, for sure.

The torx bolts are annoying, especially on the brake calipers.

-Mark

I recall tips like putting cables in shifters before installing on bars; grease vs. Loctite on cups; slathering grease on bearings.
I do recall the Bike Radar video.
Right now I wonder who the idiot was that decided to use Tork fasteners instead of hex. Some marketing major, I guess.

By routing the right shifter cable housing to the left side of the downtube (and left to right), you can have a more flowing bend in the housing. Since the cables end up on the wrong side of the frame, you "correct" the issue by crossing the cables under the down tube.
I have had some frames (like a Cannondale) where the diameter of the downtube and the location of stops didn't allow for the cable cross because they dragged on the DT.

[AngryScientist]

if you know how to set-up any mechanical drivetrain, 11-sp is simple. it's just the basics. shifters pull and release cable. deraiullers turn cable pull into mechanical movement to shift gears. brakes brake. there's just one more cog than 10 sp really...

[Dave]

Why all the whining about Torx? It was done specifically to allow the use of lighter aluminum fasteners. Torx heads are far less likely to strip than a hex.

I suppose the bigger issue is the possible need to carry a torx key on the road.

A torx screwdriver works great for mounting the shift levers.

Threading the shift cable through the tiny hole in the ergo body can be challenging. A 2mm hex wrench works well to press the cable into the groove ahead of the hole. If a loop of cable is left above the ergo body, it's easy to insert the cable into the hole, but the cable will get a kink in it, when pulled tight. Kinks are not desirable.

[oldpotatoe]

A number of threads have appeared here concerning Campy 11 build tips.
Could anyone supply me with the threads that covered the subject?
I'm tired of searching.

Thanks.
Shifters
-Make sure the 4mm der housing is cut cleanly at the shifter
-thread the der cables into the levers before you install on handlebars
-route the der housing behind the handlebars for best action
-when pushing the der cable out the back of the lever-make sure you don't dislodge the wee brass washer in there
-I use Boeshield inside the der housing and 4mm brass ferrules at the frame cable stop
-make sure the der housing is long enough
-I use 5mm der housing and brass ferrules at the RD
-make sure that loop is long enough

Crank-grease, grease..inside the frame, inside the cups, around the bearings(even on SRecord). Grease on hirth teeth, onto bolt threads. Cups tight in a prepped frame, bolt tight to torque.

Rest is pretty normal.

[Mark McM]

By routing the right shifter cable housing to the left side of the downtube (and left to right), you can have a more flowing bend in the housing. Since the cables end up on the wrong side of the frame, you "correct" the issue by crossing the cables under the down tube.

+1

I have two frames with a short head tube and headtube mounted cable stops. The distance between the cable stops and the point where the cables emerge from under the bar tape is very short, so routing the right cable to the right stop and the left cable to the left stop would require unexceptably tight bends in the housing. Crossing the cables in front of the head tube creates wider bends and much reduced friction.