looking for small format cable cutter

[eddief]

was on tour last week and could have benefitted from having a decent quality small cable cutter. I bring just the tools I need to assemble the coupled bike and so far don't want to bring a full size cutter. Is there a compact one that works?

[eddief]

http://www.leatherman.com/product/Skeletool

[Louis]

Probably bigger than what you want, but just about the very best out there:

Felco (http://www.felcousa.com/felco/pages/category.page?name=190%20COUPE-CABLES%20A%201%20MAIN)

[martinrjensen]

just use a pair of linemans pliers. you don't need anything specialhttp://www.irwin.com/uploads/products/large/linemans-pliers-643.jpg

[eddief]

the idea is to avoid having to haul a trailer to carry the cable cutters. small is impt factor here. My full size Park cutters are fine here at home.

[dave thompson]

I use the Shimano cable cutter. It's not really very small but it's light, works well and when the handles are clipped together it's quite compact.

I don't recall seeing any 'compact' cable cutters.

[vqdriver]

I've used this in a pinch. Works surprisingly well.
Something like 2.5 " closed


http://www.leatherman.com/product/Mini_Tool

[Louis]

Thinking outside the box:

http://mitchieville.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/nail-clippers.jpg

[Marburg]

Hm, I wonder if you could get enough mechanical advantage in a small package. Something like:

http://jagwireusa.com/img/products/lg/WST033.jpg

For cables rather than hydraulic hose.

[martinrjensen]

I don't think these would cut cable, not even onceThinking outside the box:

http://mitchieville.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/nail-clippers.jpg

[Louis]

I don't think these would cut cable, not even once

I know. It was mostly a joke.

However, if you could find a super-expensive one (expensive for a nail clipper, which might not be much) it might have been made from pretty good steel, in which case you may have a shot.

[eddief]

will probably crush the strands before cutting through the cable. From photos, it looks as though many Leatherman tools do have a circular cutting spot towards the rear of the jaws.

[old iron rider]

:confused:The reason none of the tools mentioned will not work is because they are not made for cutting steel strand cleanly. Cleanly is the key word, for once it is not cut cleanly is when the problems arrive. Linemans pliars have the leverage, but not the right grind for cable. The Shimanos mentioned are probably what you should go for. I personally use Knipex. Expensive, a little large, and heavy. But year after year they cut clean ends ......always. Not even a stray. Made in Germany, these are made for cutting cable. Check out the grind and you will see why they work as good as they do. For some reason, I don't care for the Park tool. Just M O.
Sometimes a mini version is not practical.:confused:;);)

[martinrjensen]

Well other than the fact that linemans pliers are big and bulky and not fitting the OP's requirements, they do in fact work just fine regardless of the cutting angle of the edges. They cut cleanly and easily. :confused:The reason none of the tools mentioned will not work is because they are not made for cutting steel strand cleanly. Cleanly is the key word, for once it is not cut cleanly is when the problems arrive. Linemans pliars have the leverage, but not the right grind for cable. The Shimanos mentioned are probably what you should go for. I personally use Knipex. Expensive, a little large, and heavy. But year after year they cut clean ends ......always. Not even a stray. Made in Germany, these are made for cutting cable. Check out the grind and you will see why they work as good as they do. For some reason, I don't care for the Park tool. Just M O.
Sometimes a mini version is not practical.:confused:;);)

[Black Dog]

Why not pre cut the spare cables that you are bringing with you?

[martinrjensen]

for your own bike, probably the best suggestion yetWhy not pre cut the spare cables that you are bringing with you?

[Louis]

Why not pre cut the spare cables that you are bringing with you?

This brings up the question I had, but did not ask: Who, other than the truly anal, brings spare cables along on the bike? Unless we're talking about a 'round the world tour, I have to believe that the odds of cable failure are pretty small. Especially if before leaving on such a ride you give the bike a thorough overhaul, which I would think is a common pre-departure preventive maintenance job. My cables often last for years.

[eddief]

this is about a crimp coming off the cable end in the S&S case during shipping. The cable end was frayed, I had no crimp, I had no cutters...but I did have spare cables. Good idea to precut cables, but still would prefer compact cutters to take along in the travel case.

[Louis]

this is about a crimp coming off the cable end in the S&S case during shipping. The cable end was frayed, I had no crimp, I had no cutters...

I've successfully used clear tape (i.e. Scotch tape) which stays on for a surprisingly long time. I had wrapped the cable before cutting it, then afer cutting it decided to just leave the 1/2 width section of tape on. Duct tape would probably work in a pinch.

[eddief]

never again on the travel bike. if the cable is out of the brake, then it can be near impossible to thread a frayed cable through the hole in the brake adjuster slot. That would be even more difficult to do if the cable had tape wrapped around it. the cutters would just be one more good thing to have in the suitcase...just in case sh*t happens.

when i got home, i noticed one of my Frog pedal cleats was missing the part that snaps the cleat onto the pedal. I had an extra set of cleats in the suitcase...just in case. and cleat screws, and stem screws, and crank arm fixing bolts.

I've successfully used clear tape (i.e. Scotch tape) which stays on for a surprisingly long time. I had wrapped the cable before cutting it, then afer cutting it decided to just leave the 1/2 width section of tape on. Duct tape would probably work in a pinch.

[Louis]

But if the cable-end crimp comes off all you need is something to temporarily hold the wires together. Is there any need to disconnect the cable from the caliper? As long as the cable is still connected all is well. I assume you want to keep the ends together because you don't want to be poked.

[eddief]

but much easier to pack with cable removed from caliper and caliper removed from fork. the presenting problem actually happened on the rear brake cable and it was still fixed by the fixing bolt. but did not like the idea of hitting the road with all those strands splayed out that way. tape would have done fine as a fix in that case.

[Louis]

A permanent fix that still allows you to thread the cable through the holes would be to solder the ends. I've never done this myself, but I've heard of folks doing it. Once that's done, you're good for the life of that cable.

[martinrjensen]

just leave the cutters in the carrying case and their size shouldn't be an issue.this is about a crimp coming off the cable end in the S&S case during shipping. The cable end was frayed, I had no crimp, I had no cutters...but I did have spare cables. Good idea to precut cables, but still would prefer compact cutters to take along in the travel case.

[Bradford]

This brings up the question I had, but did not ask: Who, other than the truly anal, brings spare cables along on the bike? Unless we're talking about a 'round the world tour, I have to believe that the odds of cable failure are pretty small. Especially if before leaving on such a ride you give the bike a thorough overhaul, which I would think is a common pre-departure preventive maintenance job. My cables often last for years.

I do when I tour and I've needed them. I carry extra cables, extra bolts and screws, an extra tire, spokes, cable spokes, extra cleats...etc. Not to mention a full set of tools, although as small and light as possible.

The only sane way to tour is to be able to fix your own bike in the middle of nowhere. You can be hundreds of miles from the nearest bike shop in places like Wyoming. I once split a sidewall on the way down Togwotee Pass and was over 100 miles from the nearest bike shop in Lander.

I also had a front derailleur cable break on a supported century once. It took the guys in the support tent about 15 minutes to find a cable that would work, and they were really surprised they actually had it. Bar ends require longer cables, like a tandem cable, and that is not as common as you would think in rural bike shops and sag wagons. I now carry extra cables for my tandem and my touring bike, even around town.

Touring puts a lot more stress on a bike then riding a race bike with no weight. I've had my legend for 10 years and have never had anything go wrong on it other than flats. On the other hand, I've never been on a tour and not had to fix something serious on either my bike or another rider's. Even when you don't have weight, crazy things happen. I had an axle on my tandem crack inside the S&S cases...I didn't even think that was possible. (I rode that one 300 miles and replaced it when I got home). It is a whole difference kind of riding.

[Bradford]

was on tour last week and could have benefitted from having a decent quality small cable cutter. I bring just the tools I need to assemble the coupled bike and so far don't want to bring a full size cutter. Is there a compact one that works?

I carry a pair of 4 1/2 inch end cutter pliers. They don't weight much at all.

Wrap the end with duct tape or electrical tape (wrap the duct tape around your pump before you leave, electrical tape in the tool pouch) and then cut. It isn't as easy as the Park cutters I have back home, but it gets the job done in a pinch.

[PacNW2Ford]

I have had a pair of these since the 80's, they still work great.

[DRietz]

I'm surprised it hasn't come up yet, as it would have been the first thing suggested across the hall:

Solder your cables. It's easy, looks great, and avoids this entire situation.

[vqdriver]

A permanent fix that still allows you to thread the cable through the holes would be to solder the ends. I've never done this myself, but I've heard of folks doing it. Once that's done, you're good for the life of that cable.

I vote for this. ^
Plus it's supapimp if you get that heat discoloration rainbow effect thing on the tips. :)