France Trip Day Two: Galibier and Telegraph

[BumbleBeeDave]

So it's Day Two and I wake up sore from the Glandon the day before to watch the Tour. Then I realize today, still not used to the altitude, we're going to do Galibier, then Telegraph, then the Galibeir again--this time the much longer north side--to get back to our hotel.

Oh, and it's raining.

Our 9am departure time gets pushed back as the guide tells us this will quit in a little while. So I hope he knows what he's doing and wander around a little as the rain does indeed ease off. Here's some of the flowers that were growing all around the hotel Bonnabel ( http://www.hotel-bonnabel.com/ ), a view out the window of the dining room, and the scene in the parking lot as we got ready to head out. At least fellow traveler Dan is ready to go . . . That's the traveler's info center across the street. It's God knows how old and has a plaque there saying one of the Napoleons stayed there one time long ago.

[BumbleBeeDave]

. . . toward the summit the full scale of the Alps becomes apparent. Its mind-boggling how big everything is and how insignificant I feel crawling along the road.

There's plenty of traffic, but the drivers are all very courteous--giving us room and waiting for a safe place before passing. It's a whole different feeling from riding here at home.

We keep going up and up and UP. That little dot in the second pic at lower center is our hotel--and we're nowhere near the top yet.

Everywhere there are reminders that this climb was on the Tour last year. If you got the Velo News TdF guide this year the cover pic was taken just up the road from here. I was told the spectators are asked to use paint that will wear away quickly ,but obviously some people last year didn't get the message.

Finally we reach the shelf just below the summit where there is a tunnel entrance for larger vehicles to cut through because the actual road over the summit is incredibly narrow with multiple switchbacks in the last steep stretch.

This monolith is the monument to Henri Desgrange, founder of the Tour de France. We stop for photos and also help out a couple of guys in a passing car by getting pics of them there with their camera. As you can see, it's a pretty massive pile of stone.

[BumbleBeeDave]

. . . on the narrow final link to the summit, which is mostly 9% or a bit more. A look back down reveals the Degrange memorial at right (with the red circle) that has now shrunk to insignificance.

Then finally we are there at the summit. It's kind of nippy--I'm not sure how Bob G. worked it with those shorts. Our guide Mike seemed impervious to the cold in his shorts. You wouldn't think from looking at him that he would be a strong cyclist, but he just went flyin' up every mountain we climbed--complete with the handlebar bag carrying all the crap we had no room for or had bought along the way.

[Louis]

Dave, wonderful pictures, and it sounds like a great adventure.

One random comment that occurred to me as I scanned some of the images (and this is obviously no fault of yours): The pictures are a bit less interesting when everyone is riding the same black Treks.

Keep 'em coming. :)

[BumbleBeeDave]

. . the north side for the long, loooong descent toward Valloire down in the valley.

But now a moment of digression . . . the bikes supplied as part of the trip price were Trek Madone 5.2's with triple cranks--plenty of low end for these climbs. But I had paid for one of the two available upgrades--to a Madone 6.5 with a 34-50 on the front and 11-28 on the back. I did not, however, pay for the other upgrade--carbon clinchers. After all the nightmarish stories I had heard about de-lamination on long descents, I figured maybe not the best idea.

So I get my bike the first day and it's a 5.2 with the triple! What the eff? But we're heading out so I ride it. Turned out to be a good decision, as the first day turned out to have the steepest grades of the whole trip--14%, 18% and one 20% ramp.

So after we got back to the hotel I mentioned this to the guides and it turned out they had gotten my bike mixed up with another guy's and next day I did indeed have the 6.5. But I didn't notice till I was halfway up the mountain that it also had--the carbon clinchers and cork pads. What the eff v2.0!

So we get to the summit and now I have the prospect of a ten mile descent on the carbon clinchers. So I start down and get almost exactly 1k--to the tunnel entrance intersection stop sign--before I hear my back tire pop as I slow to a stop at the sign. I coast across the street to the small snack bar, my worst fears about carbon wheels confirmed and cursing as I haul out my spare. Then--salvation!--Ali the guide comes by in the van, sees me waving frantically and gives me a new wheel and I nurse it all the way down to Valloire.

But no more troubles with the carbon wheels on the rest of the ride and I got them swapped out for the standard--and far more comforting--aluminum clinchers the next day.

So back to our show . . . Valloire is pretty--beautiful river slicing down the hill through town and--they like cows.

We head up the easy side of the Telegraph to the parking lot at the summit and my reaction is, "That's IT?! That is all there is to the mighty Col du Telegraph?" Guide Mike then explains to me that the other side is the hard side and it goes down almost all the way to Italy.

A few minutes later Strava Chris pulls in after having gone down almost to Italy and climbed back up. Even HE is winded by the climb, so I am grateful I didn't give it a try, too. Next time . . .

Our guides, Mike, Ali, and Sam pose for a formal portrait, I pose for the obligatory summit sign, and we head back down toward Valloire--and toward the fearsome climb back up the north side of Galibier.

[BumbleBeeDave]

. . . goes on and on--and on. I think it's about 10 miles from Valloire. . . . There are kilometer post signs by the roadside that not only give the distance to the summit, but also the grade for the next kilometer and your current altitude. Pretty cool . . .

Fortunately about halfway up there is this neat pub in an old building and we stop. Here's Bob G. hydrating before we continue and some unknown guys enjoying their day.

We continue, with guide Mike in the middle chatting amiably with the guy on the left--not part of our group--as Bob and I (Pant!) try to (Gasp!) keep up with them (Wheeze!)

We also pass the Marco Pantani memorial which, oddly enough, is labeled in English. The mountains and bike are cut out of metal and look quite substantial, but the actual image of Pantani is etched on a huge pane of glass so it makes him look like a ghost which--of course--he is now.

[BumbleBeeDave]

. . . the sheer scale of the Alps once again becomes apparent. If you look carefully you can see the teeny, TINY little cyclists in these images.

finally, we once again reach the top, but now the rain and clouds of earlier have burned off and the skies, mountain peaks, and views are truly glorious. Now THIS is what I came here for!

[BumbleBeeDave]

. . . the south side back to the hotel, the changing light and scenery is fantastic, and we also encounter many other cyclists, including these kids from a school group of some sort. It was not unusual to see school groups of teens out doing these climbs--and people pulling kid trailers, heavily laden touring and mountain bikes, a recumbent, and through it all, a fair number of racer types who must have balls of steel or just know the local road like the back of their hands, because they would go zzzzzzzzzIPPING by me.

I also stopped to try to get a few scenics and wasn't disappointed. The light keep changing and the colors of the grass, he flowers, and the cloud shrouded, glacier-cover peaks were spectacular. Hard to take a bad picture in this place even if you try!

[Vientomas]

Great posts! Keep 'em comin'

[maxdog]

Really nice shots, I'd almost think you were a photographer. I'm wondering if you could explain why people generally look stockier in photos?

[GuyGadois]

Oh my, this was an awesome read. Love the photos and it sounds as though the Trek Travel was the right decision? Are all of you at about the same level?

GG

[poff]

it was snowing last july when i was riding Galibier. Descent was very sketchy.

[victoryfactory]

Dave;

Great stuff!

As a photography buff and travel fanatic myself, I know how much
concentration and discipline it takes to go on a trip like that and also come
back with the great shots.

Most people are having such a good time that they can't be bothered thinking about
planning, setting up and taking these kind of high quality photos.
When they get home, the regret sets in.

It's a sacrifice to carry the gear and use it, so thanks for sharing.

VF

[tiretrax]

My day is made - great report from you, BBD, and also from Velotel.

[rjfr]

I live in France and never fail to be amazed by what the country has to offer.

An excellent report! Makes me want to sign up next year.

Great pictures. Nice commentary. Makes me feel like part of the experience.

Thanks!

[MattTuck]

I like that your kit matches the telegraph sign. Looks almost like you were trying too hard ;)


Thanks for the pictures and report!

[William]

Awesome picts Dave!:cool: Thanks again for sharing them.






William

[SoulCycle]

I have selected one of these photos as my desktop background because of how gorgeous the shots are! Thank you again for sharing... please continue!:banana::banana::bike::hello:

[BumbleBeeDave]

I have selected one of these photos as my desktop background because of how gorgeous the shots are! Thank you again for sharing... please continue!:banana::banana::bike::hello:

You will receive a bill shortly . . . :p ;)

BBD

[Mort]

Awesome trip and great photos.

What camera are you using? The technical quality of the photos is great... but it's also obvious that you have a very good eye.

I'm always on the lookout for something that fits in a jersey pocket and produces photos like what you've posted.

Thanks!

[Louis]

What camera are you using?

I'm pretty sure it's this:

http://forums.thepaceline.net/showpost.php?p=1047254&postcount=4

My rental ride parked at the community art center in Happy Camp, CA, where I was visiting my daughter a month ago. I shot this with my new Panasonic Lumix DMC-TS3 camera, which is a really exceptional piece of gear. I picked it up after reading a thread here and seeking out some reviews. Water proof to 40 40 feet, shock proof to 6.6 feet, cold weather ready, 12 MB, Leica lens, 28mm wide angle. It's perfect for taking along in my jersey pocket and still getting great image quality.

[BumbleBeeDave]

That's what I used.

BBD

[choke]

Great shots of a great day in the saddle. Thanks much BBD.

[scooter01]

Bummer, I was really hoping for update this morning from you Dave!
I enjoyed the post from yesterday so much!

I must say your pictures are always fantastic, I still have a picture I got from you over 7 years ago for my desktop background. Maybe as a new project when you get back you can put together a collection of you favorite shots for us??