shimano bb 7700 drive side STUCK

[illdthedj]

hi!

So i have a titanium 2004 litespeed tuscany, with a shimano bb 7700 bottom bracket installed. bought the frameset with the bb already in.

the bb 7700 is a octolink bb, where the non drive side has a lockring that threads onto a cup, and the cup is removed with a splined tool.

I've removed the non drive side no problem...

but its the Drive side that im having LOTS of issues with. its a cup with lockring-like notches for installation/removal.

i know for a fact it is removed clockwise, but all i keep doing is stripping the notches on the cup. feels like the previous owner put locktite AND over torqued it or something. im just guessing.

any advice? ive already stripped two notches, i dont want to keep trying to go thru all the other notches. im going to be using a different bottom bracket anyway, but if i could get it out with out having to totally destroy it, that would be a plus.

ive used pb blaster but that hasnt helped yet, but maybe i havn't let it sit long enough.

thanks

[zmudshark]

Assuming you are using the right tool, I would try using the spindle bolt to firmly attach the tool to the cup, and then use leverage to loosen it.

Even pressure with the right leverage, and a tight fitting tool rather than pounding with a hammer.

[illdthedj]

no...you see, while the NON drive side uses a spindle tool (which i have) as well as a lockring, the DRIVE side instead just has lockring-like notches on the actual cup.

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/images/products/medium/17459.jpg

the cup is soft aluminum, and i suspect the original installer either over torqued it, used loctite, or both.

i currently have pb blaster soaking into the threads.

[eddief]

and being able to apply direct and equal pressure to all 360 degrees of the cup is also important. if you are using a short handled wrench things can be tough...and if you are doing this with the frame upright in a bike stand, then physics are going in all directions at one time.

i don't have much experience with the reaction between different metals, but i would think the ti of the frame and the steel of the bb cup could be glued by god together. i would suggest making sure, as someone above suggested, that you make sure all parts of the equation are working in your favor, or else you may be turning a nice frame into a piece of garage art.

[zetroc]

Try using Hozan lockring pliers, C-203.

http://www.hozan.co.jp/cycle_e/catalog/bb_pedal/img/C-203.jpg

[rccardr]

Or use the correct tool that wraps all the way around the BB and locks into each notch. Worth heading to the LBS on this one with a 6 pack of Micro.

[Marcusaurelius]

I used PB Blaster once and it took about a day for it to work. I soaked it frequently and then let it sit. It eventually worked and I was able to free it up.

[beercan]

let the oils soak in for a day or so, keep saturating it and lean it to the frozen side, then try to clamp the socket on, might need to get creative here but once clamped, hopefully it frees

[zmudshark]

Okay, I see what you mean. My original method still stands, except you need some fender washers to hold the tool in place. I have worked on more buggered up bikes than I like to think about. If you are in SE MI, I can get it off for you.

I have a Dura Ace wrap around tool, a long jeebus bar, and I'd split the micro brews with you. IPA, please ;)

[Grant McLean]

no...you see, while the NON drive side uses a spindle tool (which i have) as well as a lockring, the DRIVE side instead just has lockring-like notches on the actual cup.

What you want is a tool that engages all the notches,
and you can use a big honkin' wrench on - those plier type tools are useless.

http://www.parktool.com/product/bottom-bracket-tool-bbt-18

-g

[Bertleman]

What you want is a tool that engages all the notches,
and you can use a big honkin' wrench on - those plier type tools are useless.

http://www.parktool.com/product/bottom-bracket-tool-bbt-18

-g

I would use that tool and use a bolt and washers to clamp the tool to the cup so that you don't have to worry about the tool slipping off. You could also use a QR and a bunch of washers, but you can get a bolt much tighter.

[zmudshark]

The OP says he has a 6 notched cup, the tool shown has 8 notches.

[Grant McLean]

The OP says he has a 6 notched cup, the tool shown has 8 notches.

yeah, you're right, he needs this one - and slip a cheater pipe on the end for more leverage.

http://brilliantbikes.co.uk/247-629-thickbox/bbt-7-lockring-tool.jpg

[jischr]

7700 BB drive side in an aluminum frame. Like you the non drive side came out easy with the spindle tool. The drive side is notched only and did not budge. I started with a pair a channel locks that normally hook well, moved to a drift pin and hammer, went to the lbs and purchased a Park HCW-5 BB tool (three hooks), came back and saw movement after 5-6 whacks with the hammer. After it moved a couple rotations I sprayed it with WD-40, screwed it in and backed it off without screwing up the BB thread. I used a stainless steel dental pick to clean whatever adhesive the prior owner used out of the BB threads.

[illdthedj]

hi guys,

thanks for all the suggestions.

so i do have the appropriate size lockring tool....but not a 6 notch one that engages all notches.

im not sure if this cup in there is steel or aluminum. it definitely feels very soft, relative to my park lockring tool.

currently letting the pb blaster soak. hard being patient though. its been a few hours, the agro side of me wants to try again right now...

anywho....lets say, i do not care about saving this cup. im not using this bottom bracket, i have another external bb that came with the 7800 groupset i bought (hence why im trying to remove this bb)...what about putting the edges of the cup in a bench vise and turning the frame? im sure it would fu@k up the bb cup...but at this point i just want it out.

ive already mangled a notch. it wasn't from the tool popping loose, but i could literally see the metal being deformed slowly as i pulled on it.

ive read reviews of this bb 7700, and what ive read is people had whatever issues with it and to remedy, applied locktite. im thinking whoever owned this frame did the same (on top of over torqueing).

is there something i should try in case this is locktite?
acetone?

[illdthedj]

7700 BB drive side in an aluminum frame. Like you the non drive side came out easy with the spindle tool. The drive side is notched only and did not budge. I started with a pair a channel locks that normally hook well, moved to a drift pin and hammer, went to the lbs and purchased a Park HCW-5 BB tool (three hooks), came back and saw movement after 5-6 whacks with the hammer. After it moved a couple rotations I sprayed it with WD-40, screwed it in and backed it off without screwing up the BB thread. I used a stainless steel dental pick to clean whatever adhesive the prior owner used out of the BB threads.

i wrote my prior post before reading this.

basically, looks like i need a 6 or 3 prong tool.
greeeaaaaat. patience is a virtue, but having to wait a week for one to be shipped in the mail sucks :(

because im more than certain my LBS dosn't have one. they dont really sell tools....

[illdthedj]

Okay, I see what you mean. My original method still stands, except you need some fender washers to hold the tool in place. I have worked on more buggered up bikes than I like to think about. If you are in SE MI, I can get it off for you.

I have a Dura Ace wrap around tool, a long jeebus bar, and I'd split the micro brews with you. IPA, please ;)

haha i appreciate the offer...but alas i am in CA.

[illdthedj]

Once again, thanks everyone for the advice.

So....SUCCESS!

what it was:
I was correct in assuming the guy had installed the cup using Loctite. beats me what strength, but it would not budge using the right size but only 1 prong tool and i basically ruined two notches of the cup (well theres 4 left, right?)

another guy in another forum suggested using acetone, which dissolves loctite. I gave that a try...let it sit for an hour, then gingerly gave it another shot with the 1 prong lock ring tool, and it came off relatively easily.

there is definitely some sort of residue from the loctite, so that was the culprit.



really? loctite? ive installed about a dozen bottom brackets and have never needed to resort to loctite. if anything ive used grease on the threads so i can get it out later if needed....


anywho, once again thanks everybody. im new here but ive found the people in this forum to be exceptionally helpful.

[eddief]

maybe the gunk was that stuff. anyway good on you for getting it done.

Once again, thanks everyone for the advice.

So....SUCCESS!

what it was:
I was correct in assuming the guy had installed the cup using Loctite. beats me what strength, but it would not budge using the right size but only 1 prong tool and i basically ruined two notches of the cup (well theres 4 left, right?)

another guy in another forum suggested using acetone, which dissolves loctite. I gave that a try...let it sit for an hour, then gingerly gave it another shot with the 1 prong lock ring tool, and it came off relatively easily.

there is definitely some sort of residue from the loctite, so that was the culprit.



really? loctite? ive installed about a dozen bottom brackets and have never needed to resort to loctite. if anything ive used grease on the threads so i can get it out later if needed....


anywho, once again thanks everybody. im new here but ive found the people in this forum to be exceptionally helpful.

[oldpotatoe]

hi guys,

thanks for all the suggestions.

so i do have the appropriate size lockring tool....but not a 6 notch one that engages all notches.

im not sure if this cup in there is steel or aluminum. it definitely feels very soft, relative to my park lockring tool.

currently letting the pb blaster soak. hard being patient though. its been a few hours, the agro side of me wants to try again right now...

anywho....lets say, i do not care about saving this cup. im not using this bottom bracket, i have another external bb that came with the 7800 groupset i bought (hence why im trying to remove this bb)...what about putting the edges of the cup in a bench vise and turning the frame? im sure it would fu@k up the bb cup...but at this point i just want it out.

ive already mangled a notch. it wasn't from the tool popping loose, but i could literally see the metal being deformed slowly as i pulled on it.

ive read reviews of this bb 7700, and what ive read is people had whatever issues with it and to remedy, applied locktite. im thinking whoever owned this frame did the same (on top of over torqueing).

is there something i should try in case this is locktite?
acetone?

Might try heating it, then the tool and frame in a vice, turn the frame. Last resort is to use a thin saw blade and cut the cup to pieces from the inside..another reason to NOT use loctite on a BB.

The cup is aluminum and what you are seeing is NOT uncommon. I have cut more than a few 7700 RH cups outta a frame.

[illdthedj]

Might try heating it, then the tool and frame in a vice, turn the frame. Last resort is to use a thin saw blade and cut the cup to pieces from the inside..another reason to NOT use loctite on a BB.

The cup is aluminum and what you are seeing is NOT uncommon. I have cut more than a few 7700 RH cups outta a frame.

really? geez looks like the 7700 was a total bitch of a bb.
i dunno if you saw my other post, but i got it out by laying the frame on its side, drive side down, and soaking the threads with acetone. it dissolved thru whatever was being used wether it was loctite or something else, but i think it was loctite because the residue was kind of blue/green-ish

[Fivethumbs]

I have a 7700 crankset and went with the 6500 BB so I could use the same tool on all my cartridge BBs.