Help me fit my Peg

[wooly]

I bought Xelodragon's Peg Respo a few months ago. I'm building it up (stoked) and am running into a fit problem. The fork steerer was cut all the way to not allow any spacers under my Ritchey WCS 4-Axis Stem 120 stem. I need 5-10mm of additional height to get the optimal fit. The Ritchey stem is 6 degree and flipped down. I'd like to NOT flip the stem upright. The shop that's building it up recommended a Rotor S3X stem because it has a lower stack height than the Ritchey, approximately 7mm, and the same 6 degree rise/drop. Their logic is that the extra 7mm can be gained in stem stack height by adding spacers under the stem, therefore raising the bars by that 7mm. Does this make sense?

Are there other low stack stems that would also accomplish this, if in fact it will work?

Thanks all.

Ron

[Z3c]

If you are open to it, I would suggest considering a 0 degree stem which will still look basically flat/avoid the upward appearance while giving you more bar height. Also, you might consider using a 110 as slightly less reach may allow you to be comfortable with slightly more drop.

Play around here: http://www.brightspoke.com/t/bike-stem-calculator.html

Not knowing your head tube angle so using 72 deg., a 0 degree stem raises the bar 9mm more than a -6 120mm..

The Rotor stem is just going to be lower to begin with; it isn't as tall so it has less stack.

[eddief]

the top of the fork clamp part of the stem is still going to be at the very top of the steerer no matter if you have a spacer under it or not. seems to me the top is the top no matter what is under the stem. So your stem is a 84/96. Just get a 90 degree stem, split the difference and go with it. Or get a new fork with more steerer.

I bought Xelodragon's Peg Respo a few months ago. I'm building it up (stoked) and am running into a fit problem. The fork steerer was cut all the way to not allow any spacers under my Ritchey WCS 4-Axis Stem 120 stem. I need 5-10mm of additional height to get the optimal fit. The Ritchey stem is 6 degree and flipped down. I'd like to NOT flip the stem upright. The shop that's building it up recommended a Rotor S3X stem because it has a lower stack height than the Ritchey, approximately 7mm, and the same 6 degree rise/drop. Their logic is that the extra 7mm can be gained in stem stack height by adding spacers under the stem, therefore raising the bars by that 7mm. Does this make sense?

Are there other low stack stems that would also accomplish this, if in fact it will work?

Thanks all.

Ron

[martinrjensen]

this ^. I have a 0 degree stem and they look niceIf you are open to it, I would suggest considering a 0 degree stem which will still look basically flat/avoid the upward appearance while giving you more bar height. Also, you might consider using a 110 as slightly less reach may allow you to be comfortable with slightly more drop.

Play around here: http://www.brightspoke.com/t/bike-stem-calculator.html

Not knowing your head tube angle so using 72 deg., a 0 degree stem raises the bar 9mm more than a -6 120mm..

The Rotor stem is just going to be lower to begin with; it isn't as tall so it has less stack.

[wooly]

If you are open to it, I would suggest considering a 0 degree stem which will still look basically flat/avoid the upward appearance while giving you more bar height. Also, you might consider using a 110 as slightly less reach may allow you to be comfortable with slightly more drop.

Play around here: http://www.brightspoke.com/t/bike-stem-calculator.html

Not knowing your head tube angle so using 72 deg., a 0 degree stem raises the bar 9mm more than a -6 120mm..

The Rotor stem is just going to be lower to begin with; it isn't as tall so it has less stack.

Thanks Z3c. So if I understand your last comment, the rotor would not effectively give me 7mm in additional height if I put 7mm in spacers below the stem?

I do have a 0 degree Easton stem that I may try as well, but am wondering how it will look. Will also try a 110. Trying to avoid buying a new fork. There's an Edge 45 rake in the classifieds right now, but I'd want to refinish it. Trying to keep this build within reason, cost wise.

[Liv2RideHard]

Maybe consider a new fork. What fork did it come with? I have ridden the new Falz fork...beautiful. Dario can match the fork to your paint scheme. You could also do a stem to match possibly. This way you get the exact fit you need and dont have to compromise anything.

[wooly]

Maybe consider a new fork. What fork did it come with? I have ridden the new Falz fork...beautiful. Dario can match the fork to your paint scheme. You could also do a stem to match possibly. This way you get the exact fit you need and dont have to compromise anything.

Good point. It came with an Edge fork - 45 rake. I called Bikyle and they said Falz forks won't be shipping as a standalone for a number of months.

[Z3c]

If I am thinking about this correctly, the Rotor stem with spacers will be slightly higher but not the full 7mm, I am thinking it will be half that, 3.5mm.

You can spot a fair number of pro's running 0 deg stems these day..

Good luck!

[fourflys]

Dude, just flip the flipping stem Wooly... There's no shame, regardless of what others say... :)

[wooly]

I know it shouldn't matter but bike aesthetics matter to me. I'm a fricken snob and it would bug me.

[Grant McLean]

So if I understand your last comment, the rotor would not effectively give me 7mm in additional height if I put 7mm in spacers below the stem?


It would give you at most 3.5mm.

The handlebar clamp is usually along the centreline of the dimensions,
so if the steerer clamp portion is shallower compared to the other stem,
half the difference will be at the top (not helping your cause) and half at
the bottom, that's how i got the 3.5 number.

-g

[benitosan1972]

I know it shouldn't matter but bike aesthetics matter to me. I'm a fricken snob and it would bug me.

form > function

just flip it if it'll help you fit bike w/o headache,
just don't take pictures of the bike, just ride it ;)

[jds108]

You've probably already considered this, but you can get the hoods a little higher with a short and shallow bar if you're not already using one. Along those lines, look at the fsa kwing bar. The whole bar is raised relative to the clamping area.

[CPP]

I know it shouldn't matter but bike aesthetics matter to me. I'm a fricken snob and it would bug me.

I feel your pain!

[eddief]

when you look at photos of both stems, the Ritchey does appear to have more lip sticking up on top of the steerer clamp. Specs suggest stack of Ritchey = 40 and stack of Rotor = 34. Difference = 6. IF IF half on top and half on bottom you get 3 mm. Good luck with that.

It would give you at most 3.5mm.

The handlebar clamp is usually along the centreline of the dimensions,
so if the steerer clamp portion is shallower compared to the other stem,
half the difference will be at the top (not helping your cause) and half at
the bottom, that's how i got the 3.5 number.

-g

[Z3c]

It would give you at most 3.5mm.

The handlebar clamp is usually along the centreline of the dimensions,
so if the steerer clamp portion is shallower compared to the other stem,
half the difference will be at the top (not helping your cause) and half at
the bottom, that's how i got the 3.5 number.

-g

What I was thinking too; glad to know it seems logical to others.

[CPP]

Go with what looks acceptable for you and then build your core strength and stretch, stretch, stretch! Beauty has a certain price!, quand même

[xeladragon]

Doh! Sorry to hear this, Ron! I hope you can get the fit to work! I'd agree with the suggestions so far though... either a slightly shorter stem to compensate for the lower handlebars or a zero-degree stem. Do post some pics when you have the Respo built up!

[wooly]

Doh! Sorry to hear this, Ron! I hope you can get the fit to work! I'd agree with the suggestions so far though... either a slightly shorter stem to compensate for the lower handlebars or a zero-degree stem. Do post some pics when you have the Respo built up!

Alex - there is NO buyers remorse. The thing is going to be awesome. Where there is a will there's a way! Will post when it's built. Target day is this Friday. Yahooooo

[PoppaWheelie]

I'm all for the new fork idea...can't quite imagine flipping the stem on that frame (IMHO, of course).

Isn't there a new Enve 1.0 fork in the classifieds with 45 rake? No relationship to the seller, etc, etc...seems like an easy decision to me, but it ain't my cash I know...

Good luck!

[fuzzalow]

I'll suggest something out of the box because the equipment side of this has been covered and the hardware options as solutions are as unyielding as the alloy & carbon those parts are made with, i.e. can only be solved by buying parts.

Dial in the fit of the new bike based not on the preconceived notion of replicating the fit numbers from an existing bike but rather by dialing the fit for the Pegoretti sui generis, as it were. IMO no 2 different bikes can be setup to the exact same measurement unless they are duplicate geometries to the millimeter. As soon as the frame geos differ, the placement of the body along and inside those frame dimensions is slightly different and unique. Keep in mind those setup measurement rigs you see used by the ProTour teams is not to transfer setup from another frame of different geo, but to exactly replicate that from an existing frame to its replacement.

There is tremendous leeway in how you can get to the bars so 5-10mm means very little when saddle placement causes very different degrees of pelvis tilt, torso angle & placement, arm & elbow geometry, etc. It is a causal chain originating from the hip/pelvis , or what a wise cycling coach told me, that everything starts from "the engine room".

Just sayin' that there is another way.

[wooly]

You have a good point. The fit of my Sachs is far different than my Speedvagen. My plan will be to make do with my stems and fine tune when get the bike in hand.

[witcombusa]

form > function

just flip it if it'll help you fit bike w/o headache,
just don't take pictures of the bike, just ride it ;)


A rising stem looks way better than a stack of spacers...

[Louis]

IMO stems look best when they are parallel to the TT. Especially when you have a horizontal TT. If you have a sloping TT then you can get away with a stem that slopes up a bit more than the TT.

My suggestion would be to temporarily use whatever slope stem gets the bars where you currently need them to be, then figure out options later. A stem with a shorter clamp distance will move the bars up a bit (everything else being the same) but as was pointed out above, it's not by much because you only get half of the difference, which itself is not a big number.

The only way to get significantly more height is via stem angle or a longer steerer tube + spacers.

[mack]

pop for another fork, sell the edge.....be done with it.

[Louis]

pop for another fork, sell the edge.....be done with it.

That will work as long as he can live with the spacers.

[BCS]

If you are open to it, I would suggest considering a 0 degree stem which will still look basically flat/avoid the upward appearance while giving you more bar height. Also, you might consider using a 110 as slightly less reach may allow you to be comfortable with slightly more drop.

Play around here: http://www.brightspoke.com/t/bike-stem-calculator.html

Not knowing your head tube angle so using 72 deg., a 0 degree stem raises the bar 9mm more than a -6 120mm..

The Rotor stem is just going to be lower to begin with; it isn't as tall so it has less stack.

A 120 mm 0deg will actually raise it 12 mm compared to a -6. IMHO, buy a 0 deg black Thomson stem and don't buy another fork. I think it would look good with the Goze paint scheme

[rodcad]

How about buying a custom Winter stem or the like?

[pdmtong]

the rotor is only going to give you 3.5mm - just as scott, eddief etc have mentioned. the stack delta is split evenly on the stem centerline...not all above (or below)

go with the 0d and then listen to fuzzalow...

or, get a fsa k-wing that has a bit of a riser bar effect...thats worth 5-10mm right there