Would the Jerk say your 'cross stem is too short?

[jwb96]

I'm looking to get a cross bike or frame, maybe to do a race or two but mostly for a winter/wet commuter. I like the look of the Bianchi Axis, but my employer carries Specialized so their new cross bikes are also in the mix. (Actually, any frame could be under consideration still at this point.)

Anyway, this is more a question around fit theories, more specific to cross than to commuting (for which I'd duplicate my road set-up). I've heard conflicting ideas around sizing down for cross, but don't like that idea. I've also heard about steeper seat tube angles or other methods to get the knees ahead of the pedal for more power. Most frames seem to go after this, although something like a Redline has a top tube as long or longer than the seat tube.

Now I also have noticed that a lot of complete bikes have stems with a lot of rise, and end up being kind of short. This would seem to be a result of getting the bars up higher on a shorter bike: bars up + headtube down = spacers and riser stems.

How does this affect handling on a cross bike? I haven't seen too many cross bikes offered with a traditional road-like 120+ stem. The fork rakes seem to be quite a bit different than on road bikes, but I always get confused on how handling works.

Becasue ultimately, I want a bike I can get my road setup on and also tweak, if necessary, for cross. Which means not downsizing the frame.

Anyway, not sure if this all makes sense, but I'm trying to make sense of the geometry options and figuring out the best bike for me.

ps: I'm trying to do this on the cheap, and looking at aluminum rather than steel to reduce corrosion worries.

Thanks,
Jim

[coylifut]

compared to my road set up, my saddle to bar drop is 2 cm higher on my cross bike. The reach is 1 cm less and the hoods are a bit higher on the bars. my saddle fore/aft is the same. the top tube on my cross bike is 1 cm shorter and I use the same lenght stem (120mm). you'll find that when you are sitting at a near 45 degree angle (torso) on your cross bike, your body wont be as sensitive to 1 cm distances in reach as it does when you are bent over on your road bike near your limit. Just about any cross bike in size 57 fits me. However, I'm much more sensitive to fit issues on a road bike.

One other thing about cross bikes. Many of the ones made by companies that do most there business in mountain bikes have very long wheel bases and real slack angles. Consequently, they don't behave very well on a cross course. Just my opinion.

Another thing, corosion fear is not a good enough reason to avoid steel. You'll likely grow bored with it long before it would ever fail you.

[zank]

Jim, regarding fit of cross bikes, I think most New Englanders are moving closer and closer to their road position than in the past. This is the way I have been setting up customers for the past couple of seasons. There is a ton of good information on cross setup on Cycle-Smart's website. Have a look. It should answer some questions.

http://www.cycle-smart.com/Articles/index.html

I don't like the idea of sizing down for a cross bike. This will shorten the head tube and require more spacers or a stem with more rise to get your handlebars to where they should be, as you pointed out. I also try to use the same length stem on the cross bike as what's appropriate on a road bike.

Since you will be riding it mostly on the road and only be racing a couple of events, I think you are on the right track in terms of setting it up as close to your road position as possible. Then tweak it a bit for race day. Heck, you might find you do not need to tweak it at all though. To be safe, you may want to leave an extra 5 or 10 mm of steerer above the stem. Raising the bars a bit for the races may help your lower back.

I hope this helps a little. Good luck!

[shinomaster]

I'm just about to throw 130 stem on my 56 fuji cross bike (had a 100mm last year!), so I'll let you know how it rides...
I've been on my road bike all year and now I need to remember how to ride my cross bike. I'm gonna try to make it feel like my cannondale so i can use the little muscles that I got fit this summer.. Hope it works.

[Bruce K]

The new Concours cross is .5cm longer in the top tube (53.5 vs 53) to reduce toe overlap. The stem is 1cm shorter (110 vs 100) to actually bring the bars closer.

The seat tube is shorter due to the shorter bottom bracket drop (6cm vs 8cm).

The head tube is a little shorter due to taller fork crown and tire diameter of the Alpha Q and Schwalbe Racing Ralphs.

The plan was to keep the saddle and handlebars similar to the postion of my Ottrott as possible but just a little shorter in reach.

BK

[shinomaster]

The new Concours cross is .5cm longer in the top tube (53.5 vs 53) to reduce toe overlap. The stem is 1cm shorter (110 vs 100) to actually bring the bars closer.

The seat tube is shorter due to the shorter bottom bracket drop (6cm vs 8cm).

The head tube is a little shorter due to taller fork crown and tire diameter of the Alpha Q and Schwalbe Racing Ralphs.

The plan was to keep the saddle and handlebars similar to the postion of my Ottrott as possible but just a little shorter in reach.

BK


Wow Bruce you sprung for it!! Congrats!!! I remember when you said you would never get a concors cross bike!! I want to see pix!!!
I would love a ti cross bike!

[Serotta PETE]

:D :D we want pictures...........................

[Bruce K]

Shino;

It's amazing what a little incentive like the Owner's Club frame sale will do to change your mind about a purchase like this. I'm thinking one or two Meivici's might have been bought because of this.

To post pictures I need three things, a computer at home that works (the hard drive failed last weekend), a bike to take pictures of, and a forum that accepts pictures again.

From what I saw at the LBS yesterday, the maiden voyage should be tonight.

I will get pictures ASAP.

BK