Necessity is the mother of...using Mobil 1 synthetic as chain lube?

[54ny77]

Needed chain lube the other day, didn't have any handy and bike shops were closed, so I grabbed a small foam paint brush and a quart of Mobil 1 synthetic 10W 30 from the garage and voila....chain lube. The stuff makes the drivetrain just hum right along, smooth, quiet, lovely.

Interested to see how long it'll last. That said, no matter what I use, I end up cleaning chain after every 2-3 rides anyway so longevity not really an issue.

Has anyone else done this? Remind me again why I am used to spending a chunk of change for a tiny container of bike-specific chain lube, vs. a QUART of Mobil 1 for less $? I've tried many--tri flow, dumonde, t-9, chain-l (currently my favorite), pedros (different varieties, prefer syn-lube), pro link, white lightening (hated that wax stuff), etc. Or is this a dumb idea? Am running a DA 7900 chain on SRAM Red drivetrain by the way.

[KonaSS]

Many have done before with no problems.

I mixed 1 part Mobil 1 and 3 parts Mineral Oil. This seems to be pretty popular as well. Used an old contact lens solution bottle and lasted for a long, long time.

[Peter P.]

It'll work; it's OIL!

One problem with using non-cycling specific lubes is they may not cling to the chain well and will splatter over your rear wheel, chainstay and such.

[Ralph]

I've used chain saw oil for years. Dispensed from a small oil can that allows small drops on each link. Then wipe chain down good before using. Maybe wipe it down again after a short ride. I think any oil will do.....maybe 30 or 40 wt slightly better.

[DfCas]

A common blend is synthetic oil and 3 or 4 parts oderless mineral spirits.

[ultraman6970]

I have used chainsaw oil too, good stuff.

[UKBROOKLYN]

Hey this thread could develop into a cookbook for lubes..
Anyone out there want to share their chain oil recipes with the crew ?? Please specify makers names of the products you use so we can follow your recipes to the letter.

[AngryScientist]

A common blend is synthetic oil and 3 or 4 parts oderless mineral spirits.

been doing this for years. no problems.

[buldogge]

Same thing here...but...ATF/Mineral Spirits mix.

-Mark in St. Louis

[goonster]

Remind me again why I am used to spending a chunk of change for a tiny container of bike-specific chain lube, vs. a QUART of Mobil 1 for less $?
The scent.

If anything, you are also overpaying for that fancy synthetic motor oil, that is formulated for very specific viscosities over a very wide range of temperatures never seen on a bike chain.

Jobst Brandt always recommended 30-weight gear oil.

[oldpotatoe]

Needed chain lube the other day, didn't have any handy and bike shops were closed, so I grabbed a small foam paint brush and a quart of Mobil 1 synthetic 10W 30 from the garage and voila....chain lube. The stuff makes the drivetrain just hum right along, smooth, quiet, lovely.

Interested to see how long it'll last. That said, no matter what I use, I end up cleaning chain after every 2-3 rides anyway so longevity not really an issue.

Has anyone else done this? Remind me again why I am used to spending a chunk of change for a tiny container of bike-specific chain lube, vs. a QUART of Mobil 1 for less $? I've tried many--tri flow, dumonde, t-9, chain-l (currently my favorite), pedros (different varieties, prefer syn-lube), pro link, white lightening (hated that wax stuff), etc. Or is this a dumb idea? Am running a DA 7900 chain on SRAM Red drivetrain by the way.

Over 20 years ago, riding in Socal, out of SanDiego...we are in the desert somewhere, around Borrego Springs maybe?. One guy's chain is squeeking/chirping something fierce. We stop at a gas station for a soda, dive the little trash buckets by the windshield cleaning things, find a empty quart of oil, dregs, dribble onto chain, viola..continue ride.

[Bob Loblaw]

As others have reported, you can use pretty much anything in a pinch as long as it's oil. It's far more important that you regularly clean and lube your chain than what you use.

BL

[benitosan1972]

Anyone ever used cooking oil? I did once, polyunsaturated for a healthy heart... haha, it worked in a pinch

[goonster]

Over 20 years ago, riding in Socal,
You'll never believe it, people still do this today. ;)

I've done this frequently on rainy brevets, where the lube has been rinsed off the chain, but you are riding long enough for everything to dry out and start squeaking.

[MattTuck]

If you use Mobil 1, you better be FAST on your bike ;)

[Black Dog]

Chain-L is the best I have used (lasts forever on the chain and super quiet). They have mixed a great blend of oils.

[firerescuefin]

It'll work; it's OIL!

One problem with using non-cycling specific lubes is they may not cling to the chain well and will splatter over your rear wheel, chainstay and such.

My experience

[Steve in SLO]

I'm on the oil:mineral spirits club.
Used oil works well, too.

[UKBROOKLYN]

BUTTER ??

(someone had to)

[MattTuck]

BUTTER ??

(someone had to)


Following that wheel would be awesome... you'd be starving for pastries when you finished your ride.

I'm starting a new company called FlavorLube, which is going to sell lubes with different scents and pheremones depending on what you want to get out of your biking. attract the opposite sex like? try our "love potion #9"; keep people off your wheel? try our "high methane natural gas"; want joe q. public to slowly follow you like the pied piper? try "fast food fury" which is actually made from the reclaimed oil from mcdonald's fry-o-lators.

[Jaq]

In a pinch, I've used everything from 3-in-1 to Singer Sewing Machine Oil to Hoppes No. 9 Lubricating Oil (gun oil). Hoppes also makes a version with "weatherguard" that my fishing friends like (especially the guys with the Shimano reels).

I just did a google on "gun oil" though, and got this (from Amazon) at the top:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41CA3-W6rLL._AA300_.jpg

Product Description
Size: 4oz
Gun Oil - the premium, condom-safe lubricant that keeps a man's most important weapon well oiled. If the military issued a lube, this is what they'd distribute with the condoms and artillery. During Operation Desert Storm, Marines j---ed off with actual military-issue gun oil while hunkered down in the trenches of Kuwaiti battlefields. A group of those marines has developed a high-tech, condom-safe formula for smooth, rapid-fire action. This silicone-based lube keeps a Private's parts well-lubricated with added Vitamin E and Aloe Vera for longer lasting, slicker ride and minimized skin irritation. The ultra-concentrated formula is designed to out-perform comparable top-shelf products - a few drops lubricate thoroughly without breaking down or drying out.

[soulspinner]

The scent.

If anything, you are also overpaying for that fancy synthetic motor oil, that is formulated for very specific viscosities over a very wide range of temperatures never seen on a bike chain.

Jobst Brandt always recommended 30-weight gear oil.

I have been using Brandts suggested recipe for a while(2 yrs) and see no difference in wear on stuff from when I used Prolink........

[gdw]

I've been using a mix of 3 or 4 to 1 -White Gas/Coleman fuel to motor oil- for years and it performs as well or better than any of the bike specific oils. It lasts as long or longer too.

[jmoore]

Gun oil will work well. I use Rem-Oil on all my guns and if they can stand up to hours in a hot, dusty dove field with 100 rounds being shot through them, then it will stand up to a bike chain.

In a pinch, I've used everything from 3-in-1 to Singer Sewing Machine Oil to Hoppes No. 9 Lubricating Oil (gun oil). Hoppes also makes a version with "weatherguard" that my fishing friends like (especially the guys with the Shimano reels).

I just did a google on "gun oil" though, and got this (from Amazon) at the top:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41CA3-W6rLL._AA300_.jpg

[Earl Gray]

Been using home brew exclusively for 10+ years.

The idea is the mineral spirits thins it for better application but quickly evaporates.

Makes a damn good parts cleaner as well.

Bike specific oil is a complete rip off.

[LegendRider]

Interestingly, Sheldon Brown says the following.

Automotive motor oil contains detergent, to wash away combustion products, and is made to be renewed constantly under pressure from the motor's oil pump. I rode once with someone who had used it the day before, and her chain was already squeaking.

I've always heard good things about home brews of motor oil and mineral spirits.

[tannhauser]

Been using home brew exclusively for 10+ years.

The idea is the mineral spirits thins it for better application but quickly evaporates.

Makes a damn good parts cleaner as well.

Bike specific oil is a complete rip off.

The mineral spirits thin the oil for better permeability btwn the bits.

I've been using it for about a year but find it's not the greatest in dusty climes.

Just got some Chain L - going to see how that works.

[LesMiner]

Something I have seen not in awhile is chain wax. It used to come in a flat round can. Heat it to a liquid and submerge the chain into the hot wax.

You do pay more for the formualtion when buying bicycle specific oil. A lot of them are mixed with a solvent like T-9 or Finishline Dry Teflon Lube or Tri Flo. Also more money for being in an aerosol in small quantites. The solvent does seem to dissolve the previous lube when it is applied. Using mineral spirits or even paint thinner could do the same thing. Its just that there is a lot of other stuff in mineral spirts and it can be much more aggressive as a solvent. It may discolor decals, stickers, and other things applied over the paint. It is not biodegradable which is probably why chain lube suppliers do not use it, at least not in the same form as can be purchased from a home center or paint store. 10 or more years ago I once tried to substitute Park Chain Cleaner with mineral spirits. The label on the pint of the Park cleaner said it contained "petroleum distillates" just like mineral spirits. So I used it in a Park on the bike chain cleaning device. Besides the pint of the Park stuff was way more expensive than a gallon of mineral spirits. Well the inside of the case must have become more porous because it remained somewhat black. The cog between the double wheel got brittle and broke. The sponge at the exit became sort of pasty. I threw it all away. You pay for what you get and the consequences for doing so.

Anybody remember using a 2 inch or so pipe filled with kerosene to clean chains? Cap one end of the pipe and keep it vertical. Add the kerosene then suspend the chain in the pipe. Let it sit over night. All the crud fails to the bottom of the pipe leaving a clean chain. The kerosene can be reused by dumping out the accumulated crud. Today it would be considered an environmental disaster .

[Ken C]

I've been using a mix of 3 or 4 to 1 -White Gas/Coleman fuel to motor oil- for years and it performs as well or better than any of the bike specific oils. It lasts as long or longer too.

I also use white gas instead of mineral spirits, it evaporates much faster. I do get worried about the additional fire hazard however.

I mix 1 part Royal Purple synthetic motor oil and Royal Purple synthetic gear lube (mxied equally) to four parts coleman fuel.

I used to use Mobil 1 however, the Royal Purple seems to keep my chain cleaner, but who knows.

[Ralph]

Interestingly, Sheldon Brown says the following.

Automotive motor oil contains detergent, to wash away combustion products, and is made to be renewed constantly under pressure from the motor's oil pump. I rode once with someone who had used it the day before, and her chain was already squeaking.


That why I use Chain Saw Oil. Cheap and made for a chain revolving around a bar. Similar to a chain revolving around cogs and chainring. Correct viscosity and designed to not fling off in loggers face.

[fourflys]

Its just that there is a lot of other stuff in mineral spirts and it can be much more aggressive as a solvent. It may discolor decals, stickers, and other things applied over the paint.

great point right there... I'd hate to ruin a JB paint job or, maybe worse, a carbon frame...

[bart998]

I've been using WD-40 for 30 years. I need to apply it about once a week, then wipe off the excess. It doesn't collect road grime like the chain lubes I've tried so the chain, cassette, and the bike all require a lot less cleaning. And, it won't hurt the paint.

[54ny77]

interesting point. i have a bunch of that in garage too. that's why i like chain-l, the stuff sticks and most importantly, it shuts up this damned sram red drivetrain better than anything i've tried thus far.

it def. appears i'm not the only one using non cycling-specific lubes for chains.

good stuff. :cool:

That why I use Chain Saw Oil. Cheap and made for a chain revolving around a bar. Similar to a chain revolving around cogs and chainring. Correct viscosity and designed to not fling off in loggers face.

[OperaLover]

3 parts OMS to 1 part Amsoil 10W30 synthertic left over from a case I bought for my Honda CRX that I sold 6 years ago. Works great! and the 3 to 1 makes exactly 4 ozs. At pennies per applicatoin, I find that I clean and lubricate much more often.

[Brian Smith]

Mobil 1 0w30 is my favorite, adding mineral spirits to more viscous motor oils seems compromised compared to just buying cycling lubes. I can't imagine that bicycle chain lubes do more to prevent wear of hard metals against each other better than Mobil 1.
Cleanliness of the chain and lube is more of the user's fault than the lubricants, and I'm not averse to cleaning the drivetrain. I've had great satisfaction with the 0w30 regarding propensity to accumulate grit, ymmv.

[Jason E]

I add PAM cooking spray to the mix when it's wet and below freezing.

[kramnnim]

I tried chainsaw bar oil mixed with mineral spirits for over 6 months, it seemed to gum up a lot with nasty black goop. Switched to the gear oil I had gotten for my Fox MTB fork, seems to be less goopy.

[Rudy]

Over 20 years ago, riding in Socal, out of SanDiego...we are in the desert somewhere, around Borrego Springs maybe?. One guy's chain is squeeking/chirping something fierce. We stop at a gas station for a soda, dive the little trash buckets by the windshield cleaning things, find a empty quart of oil, dregs, dribble onto chain, viola..continue ride.

Done this so many times. Always asked the pump jockey. Once in rural Colorado I got a long hard look and a grudging "pick through the trash if ya wanna."

[martinrjensen]

best chain lube I have done is to take 90 wt gear oil then heat it up and soak the chain in it for several hours. When you take the chain out, I just hang it for a day or so on a nail then wipe it off. Kind of a hassle but I can't think of anything better. Gotta do this outside because gear oil stinks when it's heated, actually it stinks even when it's not heated.
EDIT: don't know if the previous response was pointed towards me or not but I thought I would say that this method does not appear to splatter on the wheel afterwards.Hanging it for a day is the secret, then wiping it down.

[cfox]

It will lube fantastically, but like someone mentioned above, it will probably splatter like a mofo on your rear wheel. I tried chain-l, and really like how it worked, but no matter how carefully I placed a single drop on each link and wiped the bejeesus out of it, it splattered my rear spokes and rim with a fine mist of sticky oil. I don't care if my chain gets grimy, but I hate having to wipe down my rear wheel all the time. Prolink for me.

p.s. lube thread!!

[bluesea]

It will lube fantastically, but like someone mentioned above, it will probably splatter like a mofo on your rear wheel. I tried chain-l, and really like how it worked, but no matter how carefully I placed a single drop on each link and wiped the bejeesus out of it, it splattered my rear spokes and rim with a fine mist of sticky oil. I don't care if my chain gets grimy, but I hate having to wipe down my rear wheel all the time. Prolink for me.

p.s. lube thread!!



Lol, I was just about to give Chain-L a try, then saw your comments. Reminds me of the two years in the 90's when I used Phil's Un-Tenacious oil---ugh, the worst. I'll stay with Prolink as well. I only do 150-180mi a week so it hasn't occurred to save money on chain oil, and I can go 4000 mi on a chain.

[dogdriver]

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41CA3-W6rLL._AA300_.jpg

OK, I'll bite: Why does it say, "Condom Safe"?

[Joachim]

It will lube fantastically, but like someone mentioned above, it will probably splatter like a mofo on your rear wheel. I tried chain-l, and really like how it worked, but no matter how carefully I placed a single drop on each link and wiped the bejeesus out of it, it splattered my rear spokes and rim with a fine mist of sticky oil. I don't care if my chain gets grimy, but I hate having to wipe down my rear wheel all the time. Prolink for me.

p.s. lube thread!!

Never had this problem with chain-l. I switched to chain-l from Prolink.

[dave thompson]

OK, I'll bite: Why does it say, "Condom Safe"?

It's lube for your 'other' gun. Sometimes you have to think inside the box! ;)

[rab]

Have used a mix of motor oils (various weights) mixed with mineral spirits at 1:3 to 1:5 ratios for years now and had no issues, in fact feel it works better than most purchased lubes.

The key thing in my opinion is to use just enough, and I use a syringe to individually lube each link rather than just slathering a bunch on the chain. The solvent aspect helps carry the oil into the rollers/bushings. Let it dry overnight, maybe a quick wipe with a rag and good for 100-200 miles easily depending on conditions. Been working fine in dusty Texas conditions the past few years. I think this is actually preferable for dusty conditions as it minimizes the amount of excess oil on the chain plates.
Works good on the CX and Mtn bikes too.

If you have lube splattering on your rear wheel you have way too much on and need to wipe the chain down. Extra lube on the outer chain plates is just a good way to pick up dirt.

Have also used sewing machine oil and thought that worked well.

Never really liked the waxes.

[54ny77]

i put a lotta miles on the mobil 1-lubed chain this weekend and i'm just chuckling to myself for something so stupidly simple. it didn't splatter, it kept this ^%#$!@! SRAM Red drivetrain nice & silent, i didn't use a syringe (really, to the person who uses a syringe to lube their chain, that seems insane but whatever floats yer boat have at it) and all in all i am surprisingly pleased.

in terms of how i put it on, i just glopped it on (while chain mounted on the bike) at night with a foam paintbrush (because the brush was handy and did the job), let soak overnight, then wiped excess off thoroughly the next morning with a rag pre-ride. took a lot of excess off, to the point it looked like not enough was on there. wrong--there was plenty.

a quart of this stuff....should last several years....:p:hello:

[zennmotion]

Chainsaw bar lube is as good as it gets for wet and muddy conditions, I use it for commuter bike daily use because that bike gets neglected and left in the rain occasionally, also good to last through a muddy cross race. But you have to wipe it off really well or you'll have a mess, it's very similar to Phil Wood lube. Motor oil works OK but won't last as well as bar lube when it's raining. And both are not ideal for dusty or sandy conditions, too sticky. For long dry gravel road or dusty MTB rides I spend the big bucks on Boeshield. And the syringe isn't as anal/weird as it sounds. It minimizes the cleanup by not applying too much in the first place and it makes it easy to lube the sideways and upside down lube points (rear derailleur cage pins, cable stop entry points) Paintbrush? Ugh what a mess!

[nbrewste]

Anyone ever used cooking oil? I did once, polyunsaturated for a healthy heart... haha, it worked in a pinch

Yes, sadly.

Forgot the chain lube, bike shops were far away, chain in need of lubrication from a six-hour drive in the rain.

I did remember the olive oil though (for BBQ). It worked, sort of.

Very low viscosity -- splattered everywhere even after wiping the excess and only lasted for a 40-ish mile ride the next day.

[benb]

Going to have to try this.. I have a bunch of dregs from my motorcycle sitting in the garage.. Got some Mobil 1, probably some Royal Purple or whatever that stuff is..

I honestly have never really been happy with bike specific stuff.. most of them fling off like crazy and/or are dust magnets..

[keevon]

If anyone's still reading four pages into a DIY lube thread... ;)

Here's a bunch of info on DIY lube methods, both on and off the bike. I haven't tried any, but all the points seem to make sense:

http://nordicgroup.us/chain/

I'm going to try this method:
1) Take chain off bike.
2) Kerosene/mineral spirits rinse till clean.
3) Place chain in pie pan and cover with chainsaw oil.
4) Gently agitate.
5) Remove chain and wipe thoroughly.

Will report back!

[Viper]

About three years ago I started a thread, 'Can Bikes Be More Green?'. I was surprised at the time, the amount of replies that laughed at the notion. Then weeks later TREK came out with a bike that had recycled rubber everywhere, less toxic paint on the frame etc.

Anyway, let's try to do the less oil thing. :) I used the 3:1 homemade brew for a long while. I am not as green as I can be, but I buy this lube:

http://www.ernestolube.com/

http://www.ernestolube.com/#!benefits

Wisconsin.
America.
Not OPEC.
Name ends in a vowel so it's Campy-endorsed.

Let's make homemade Bio Lube. :beer:

[Ken C]

i put a lotta miles on the mobil 1-lubed chain this weekend and i'm just chuckling to myself for something so stupidly simple. it didn't splatter, it kept this ^%#$!@! SRAM Red drivetrain nice & silent, i didn't use a syringe (really, to the person who uses a syringe to lube their chain, that seems insane but whatever floats yer boat have at it) and all in all i am surprisingly pleased.

in terms of how i put it on, i just glopped it on (while chain mounted on the bike) at night with a foam paintbrush (because the brush was handy and did the job), let soak overnight, then wiped excess off thoroughly the next morning with a rag pre-ride. took a lot of excess off, to the point it looked like not enough was on there. wrong--there was plenty.

a quart of this stuff....should last several years....:p:hello:

I think it may have been Angry Scientist who suggested it, but I use the large contact lens solution bottles. The tops pop on and off easily and they administer the HB very nicely, from single drops to a fine stream.

[tannhauser]

About three years ago I started a thread, 'Can Bikes Be More Green?'. I was surprised at the time, the amount of replies that laughed at the notion. Then weeks later TREK came out with a bike that had recycled rubber everywhere, less toxic paint on the frame etc.

Anyway, let's try to do the less oil thing. :) I used the 3:1 homemade brew for a long while. I am not as green as I can be, but I buy this lube:

http://www.ernestolube.com/

http://www.ernestolube.com/#!benefits

Wisconsin.
America.
Not OPEC.
Name ends in a vowel so it's Campy-endorsed.

Let's make homemade Bio Lube. :beer:

I'm totally on board with the green thing.

Using mineral spirits not a drop ever touches the ground and I've yet to throw away the accumulated gunk after decanting.

The one unknown variable to me is what the effect of vaporized spirits have on the environment.

Some guys, not pointing a finger at you, like to greenwash their nasty habits of using the solution, then flushing it all down the sewer.

[Seramount]

used to do the whole tedious wash-in-solvent, bake-in-oven, dip-in-melted-paraffin thing...ugh. serious PITA.

over the years have tried a variety of bike-shop-approved lubes, TriFlow, Pedros, ProLink, yadda yadda...they work.

just got my first bottle of Chain-L and put it on a new KMC chain. driveline is so quiet and smooth, I am now a convert.

until the next 'best' thing comes along...

[jemoryl]

Just a couple of observations. Animal and vegetable fats aren't good because they oxidize (e.g. rancid butter). WD-40 has poor lubricating qualities (WD = Water Displacement, its original purpose).
It is likely the "Gun Oil" is water soluble....

I'm a home brew Pro-Link user: 1 part whatever oil I have for my car in 3 or 4 parts odorless mineral spirits.

[William]

ATB
http://ebikestore.com/lubricants/94-atb.html

Previous discussion on the merits...
http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=22338&highlight=ATB+lube

The maker is a retired lubrication chemist if I remember correctly. I have a virtual lifetime supply thanks to AR!!:cool:






William

[Germany_chris]

When in doubt use the toxic 60% mobile one 40% diesel…

I've used that combo on everything from John Deere tractors to Campy 10...

[jroden]

I suggest Penn Pride or Wolf Head brand. I have some straight 30 weight left over from a 305 that burned oil. Adding some diesel in the winter makes it less gunky.

All those little bottles of lube are kind of dopey