Quick question on grease

[SamIAm]

I typically use Pedro's Bio Grease when assembling a bike. The current bottom bracket I am installing (SKS) mentions using bearing grease on the threads.

Thoughts on ignoring this recommendation and using the Pedro's stuff?

[Joachim]

For the BB threads I would grab any grease on hand (Mobil 1). You will be fine.

[ultraman6970]

Grease is grease... for those things doesnt matter as long you put grease, you can use grease and teflon tape to play safe. It wont get lose or creak that way.

I use lithium white grease for everything. But maybe bearings that I use something less thick.

[palincss]

Pedro's isn't "bearing grease"?

[JAGI410]

Bio grease IS a bearing grease. It's a good all around (hence the "all purpose" on the label) grease.

[SamIAm]

Pedro's isn't "bearing grease"?

I have no idea, but I'm planning on using it for this application.

[witcombusa]

I prefer to use a lubricating paste from Kluber for bottom bracket cups/cartridges. (threads NOT bearings!)

"Lubricating pastes reduce or prevent tribo-corrosion (frictional oxidation), stick-slip and adhesive wear (seizure). Depending on their composition, lubricating pastes are resistant to water, vapour or other media while additionally providing corrosion protection."

[Viper]

I typically use Pedro's Bio Grease when assembling a bike. The current bottom bracket I am installing (SKS) mentions using bearing grease on the threads.

Thoughts on ignoring this recommendation and using the Pedro's stuff?

Sam, I believe that is a typo above. You are installing an SKF bottom bracket and I say congratulations. :banana: SKF is no joke. They make the OEM bearings for BMW (FAG and Timken make great bearings as well). Very likely I will install an SKF into my Moulton FUSO this summer. I like things that might be a bit different or names you know and trust. SKF is most likely the company that supplied Campagnolo with their loose bearings. The pricepoint is on par with Phil Wood and I will go with dah German bearings...run to dah choppah! I know SKF.

http://www.compasscycle.com/bb_SKFBRC_iso.html

http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/bottombrackets.html

We don't hear "SKF" a whole lot, at least I don't and I believe we'll be seeing more riders make dah leap. :) Some use teflon tape, anti-seize, I use Phil's grease.

http://shouaudi.info/img.php?fl=f4k426v5d4s2r2f4s524d4a406r2j4b4h4s4k4r 5o4j4h524i5l4s5o2h484i494j5p2b4g404l5s594v2o2k5343 4443454e504x2r2r5l4g4

Park or Marine Grease from a local hardware store work fine, too and some applications call for Thread Locker aka Loctite. I think some people overthink the grease...what's key is to know it's not a lifetime deal; remove and service your BB.

Sam, this is a link to SKF's blog, addressing your question:

http://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/04/16/to-grease-or-not-to-grease/

[oldpotatoe]

I typically use Pedro's Bio Grease when assembling a bike. The current bottom bracket I am installing (SKS) mentions using bearing grease on the threads.

Thoughts on ignoring this recommendation and using the Pedro's stuff?

Pedros Bio grease IS bearing grease. But grease is oil in 'soap', any grease is fine.

[SamIAm]

Sam, I believe that is a typo above. You are installing an SKF bottom bracket

You are correct of course. It went on the new Weigle last night! I am still conflicted over whether to grease the spindle tapers and the crank fixing bolt though.

[witcombusa]

You are correct of course. It went on the new Weigle last night! I am still conflicted over whether to grease the spindle tapers and the crank fixing bolt though.

Tapers no......bolt threads and under head, yes......

[PQJ]

Speaking of grease - and apologies for the slight thread drift - per the advice of a very well-respected local bike mechanic, I need to grease my seatpost and all the contact points between seatpost and saddle, in order to get rid of a most annoying creaking sound. Will Park Tool's Polylube 1000 grease do the trick or should I try something else?

[cp43]

Tapers no......bolt threads and under head, yes......

Why not the tapers? I always grease them when installing cranks, and have had no problems in doing so. Am I setting myself up for problems by doing this?

Thanks,

Chris

[witcombusa]

Why not the tapers? I always grease them when installing cranks, and have had no problems in doing so. Am I setting myself up for problems by doing this?

Thanks,

Chris

There is much discussion on this. The thinking is that by lubricating the taper it will limit the friction (which IS what grease/oil does) of the taper interface and also "help" the arm seat deeper on the spindle (basically stretching the tapered socket) causing the joint to loosen up/wear out sooner.

Also remember if using alloy bolts to first seat and torque the arms with steel bolts then replace with the ALU bolts (if you must).

[Viper]

You are correct of course. It went on the new Weigle last night! I am still conflicted over whether to grease the spindle tapers and the crank fixing bolt though.

I grease everything on my car, except my lug nuts. They stay dry and tight, so they don't fall off at highway speed, so I hear you. I grease everything on my bike or a drop of oil. I hate noises. See here and comments for answers all over the park:

http://velospace.org/forums/discussion/513/looserning-of-drive-side-crank-bolt/

Campy crank bolts come with Blue Loctite. When I remove mine to service the BB, I clean the crank bolts and reapply a nice drop of Blue Loctite. I spray just a bit of PB Blaster on a rag and make nice to the spindles, clean them and the bores of the crank. Remove all oxidation, dirt and etc. I then put very little grease on the spindles.

Maybe this is the best read:

http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/installing-cranks.html

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/crank-installation-and-removal-square-spindle-type

PARK:

Cranks are pressed tight onto the tapered square spindle. The square spindle is made with a slight upward sloping taper. The crank square fitting also has a slight taper (Figure 10). The crank bolt or nut acts as the pressing tool and forces the arm up the slope of the spindle. The bolt or nut must be tight enough to keep from loosening, but not so tight that the spindle splits and damages crank. If possible, use a torque wrench. See Torque Recommendations.


Figure 10. The square hole and square spindle end

Aluminum cranks typically do not require lubrication of this press fit. Aluminum by its nature is self-lubricating as it is covered with a thin layer of oxidation. Adequate torque is typically enough to keep arms from creaking.

a. Wipe both sides of spindle and inside crank mounting holes with a rag.

b. Grease under head and threads of both bolts or nuts.

c. Install right crank onto right side of spindle.

d. Thread crank bolt/nut to spindle.

e. Tighten crank bolt/nut to manufacturer's recommended torques (Figure 11).

f. Grease threads of dust cap (if any) and install snug.

g. Install left crank onto left side of spindle with arm pointing opposite direction of right side arm.

h. Install crank bolt/nut and tighten.

i. Grease threads of dust cap (if any) and install snug.


Figure 11. Fully tighten crank bolt or nut

f. Grease threads of dust cap (if any) and install snug.

g. Install left crank onto left side of spindle with arm pointing opposite direction of right side arm.

h. Install crank bolt/nut and tighten.

i. Grease threads of dust cap (if any) and install snug.

[cp43]

There is much discussion on this. The thinking is that by lubricating the taper it will limit the friction (which IS what grease/oil does) of the taper interface and also "help" the arm seat deeper on the spindle (basically stretching the tapered socket) causing the joint to loosen up/wear out sooner.

Also remember if using alloy bolts to first seat and torque the arms with steel bolts then replace with the ALU bolts (if you must).

My thinking on this was/is that by torquing to the recommended spec, I'm getting a good seat on the taper, without causing any/much stretching of the tapered socket. I can see how grease and too much tightening torque would damage the cranks though.

I only use steel bolts. Good to know about the ALU ones though.

Thanks,

Chris