Pressing on a crown race

[nebraskacycling]

I just got a headset for my cross bike. I can't seem to press on the crown race. I keep reading that I should take it to a shop because I need a special tool to push it on. Is this correct or can I just got a piece of PVC pipe and pound it on?

[Bob Loblaw]

Pounding it in is hit and miss, so to speak. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't, and you risk bunging up the race or the tube. SPend the bucks and have it done properly.

BL

[nebraskacycling]

Pounding it in is hit and miss, so to speak. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't, and you risk bunging up the race or the tube. SPend the bucks and have it done properly.

BL

Will do; guess the shop won't charge me too much anyway. Thanks

[Louis]

can I just got a piece of PVC pipe and pound it on?

This has worked well for me in the past. (although I now have the "special" fittings that match the flange on the race)

It helps to have a helper hold the legs of the fork. Don't put the ends on the ground and blast away at the crown race.

[dustyrider]

In the past I've used a freinds version of a headset press. It consisted of a stout threaded bar(cut to about 12" length), with 4 stout washers(correct diameter) 2 on the top 2 on the bottom, and 2 nuts, 1 on the top 1 on the bottom. Screw'em together and wahla, it's a headset press.

Essentially the same thing as the tool, and you can use it over, and over, and over! But as stated, it's likely a shop won't charge that much to press in the cups.

[zmudshark]

In the past I've used a freinds version of a headset press. It consisted of a stout threaded bar(cut to about 12" length), with 4 stout washers(correct diameter) 2 on the top 2 on the bottom, and 2 nuts, 1 on the top 1 on the bottom. Screw'em together and wahla, it's a headset press.

Essentially the same thing as the tool, and you can use it over, and over, and over! But as stated, it's likely a shop won't charge that much to press in the cups.

Crown race is a different critter. Unless you really want to try it yourself, I would just take it and a 6 pack to the LBS. They might not even charge you then.

[guyintense]

Are you sure the race and the fork are compatible? Not always the case.

[Louis]

In the past I've used a freinds version of a headset press. It consisted of a stout threaded bar(cut to about 12" length), with 4 stout washers(correct diameter) 2 on the top 2 on the bottom, and 2 nuts, 1 on the top 1 on the bottom. Screw'em together and wahla, it's a headset press.

That's for the cups. I believe the OP was asking about the crown race.

Edit: I just realized that Zmud said the same thing.

[Peter P.]

Do you have an old crown race lying around?

If so, invert it and place it against the new crown race. If the shoulders line up, then place the new crown race on the fork, invert the old one, then use your favorite piece of pipe to hammer against what is now the underside of the old race. Works like a charm.

You merely want to avoid hammering against the bearing surface. Sometimes your pipe will line up with the O.D. of the crown race, outside of the bearing race. This works, too.

[choke]

PVC pipe has worked for me every time. If it's a 1 1/8 in fork then you need 1 1/4 PVC.

[ultraman6970]

There is a detail nobody mentioned, you have to measure the crownrace ID and the OD in the fork, they have to match. If they dont match then no matter how badly you hit that thing it might not get it ever. Thats the usual thing that happens when you try to put an italian/enlgish crown race in a jis fork.

U have to measure 1st.

[dustyrider]

Of course I'd forget to read the OP!

For a crown race I've used a heavy duty galvanized steel coupling/sleeve(for threaded pipe I think), just bring the race to the hardware store to make sure the diameters are the same!
Not sure if the metal cylinder I've used is termed a sleeve or a coupling, but they got them at Home Depot!
And you can use 'em over and over... its weight alleviates the need of a precise hammer strike.

[Peter B]

I've successfully used a length of copper water pipe many times. Soft enough to give before the SS race will. Use it like a slide hammer on the race but be sure not to drive the race with the dropouts resting on anything.

[zmudshark]

I've used a fork mount rack to support the fork when pounding.

The basic rule (IMO) is if you haven't done it and are not sure what you are doing, go to the LBS.

If you think it's not a problem, go for it.

[guyintense]

There is a detail nobody mentioned, you have to measure the crownrace ID and the OD in the fork, they have to match. If they dont match then no matter how badly you hit that thing it might not get it ever. Thats the usual thing that happens when you try to put an italian/enlgish crown race in a jis fork.

U have to measure 1st.

Kind of what I was implying when I said "compatible."

[choke]

Mounting the wheel in fork is an easy way of protecting the dropouts.

[Germany_chris]

Don't assume that the crown race is harder than the PVC or copper pipe. I had a Stronglight threadless on my Colnago that bent with a firm press of the finger. Usually I use and old stem to get them on, but my LBS's doesn't charge to either, press the headset bearings nor crown race and if they're busy I can generally use the tool and a stand and do it myself.

[vqdriver]

I just take the PVC tube with a cap in one end, slide it over the steerer, flip the entire deal over and tap the PVC into the floor of my garage. This way dropouts are never in danger.

Grease the race first and press it on by hand to get it started. Golden

[XC_racing]

If you don't know what you are doing then don't try this at home.

If you have a used/old sealed bearing, place it over the crown race, and use a piece of wood and hammer to gradually tap the old bearing over the crown brace. Ensure to tap it equally/slowly from all sides to achieve best out come and support the crown on something sturdy.

Always grease the steerer tube first, and make sure you are using correct crown race size for the steerer tube (1, 1.125, and 1.5").

[sokyroadie]

I have seen some races that are slit to make putting it on a breeze. Not sure if it was factory or someone did it themselves, but it seemed to work fine.

Jeff

[nebraskacycling]

Wow quite a few more responses than I expected. This gives me a few different options if the shop tries to rob me this afternoon. They are friendly even though I am a new face to the area so hopefully it won't be too bad. Thanks for all the cool options and methods!

[chismog]

I just take the PVC tube with a cap in one end, slide it over the steerer, flip the entire deal over and tap the PVC into the floor of my garage. This way dropouts are never in danger.

Grease the race first and press it on by hand to get it started. Golden

VQDriver has this right, home (and shop!) wrenches take note. I've seen any number of guys deal with the race by putting the dropout side down on the fork...Wrong! Just be VERY careful that your hand is somewhere other than near the race when you are pounding it on, so as not to get pinched. ;)

I love bacon, BTW.

[m_sasso]

Put the fork in the freezer and warm the race in the oven, before undertaking, it will slide on much easier, just make sure the SO is not around when doing.

[ClutchCargo]

Put the fork in the freezer and warm the race in the oven, before undertaking, it will slide on much easier, just make sure the SO is not around when doing.

Put the fork in the freezer??? The race in the oven ???

I don't understnd the reluctance to take it to the LBS, unless a reliable shop just isn't available. I build my bikes and do 95% of the work on them, but for stuff like this, where specialty tools are called for, experience counts and you could easily trash your component or frame, I'm happy for the LBS to handle. Something like this is not going to cost you much, and you're supporting the local guys (buy a box of power bars while you're there, or as someone suggested, take the opportunity to talk shop (no pun) over a 6 pack (sorry, cafe misto !).

[Germany_chris]

Put the fork in the freezer??? The race in the oven ???

I don't understnd the reluctance to take it to the LBS, unless a reliable shop just isn't available. I build my bikes and do 95% of the work on them, but for stuff like this, where specialty tools are called for, experience counts and you could easily trash your component or frame, I'm happy for the LBS to handle. Something like this is not going to cost you much, and you're supporting the local guys (buy a box of power bars while you're there, or as someone suggested, take the opportunity to talk shop (no pun) over a 6 pack (sorry, cafe misto !).

Because what he want's to do isn't particularly complex, and he could learn something new, perhaps build a tool.

[Louis]

but for stuff like this, where specialty tools are called for, experience counts and you could easily trash your component or frame, I'm happy for the LBS to handle.

I think you're more likely to mess up a frame by over-clamping the TT or ST in a work-stand than you are to trash a fork while installing a crown race.

Personally, I don't consider a length of PVC pipe to be a specialty tool. A headset press might be, but I also built one of those for myself.

When I saw the teen-age guys at an LBS pry my crown race off a CF fork by jamming a screw-driver between the top of the fork leg and the bottom of the race (thereby messing up the clearcoat on the fork) I concluded that I can do at least as well as these guys. Since then, I do most of the wrenching on my bikes myself. (and I've since purchased on this very forum a crown-race puller)

[chismog]

I don't understnd the reluctance to take it to the LBS, unless a reliable shop just isn't available. I build my bikes and do 95% of the work on them, but for stuff like this, where specialty tools are called for, experience counts and you could easily trash your component or frame, I'm happy for the LBS to handle.

Just because they're a bike shop doesn't mean they know what they're doing. After watching a local LBS put a crown race on a suspension fork with the dropouts on the floor, I decided they were morons. Yes- pounding the tool mostly made the fork bounce a lot, although the race finally did seat somehow.

I do want the CRS-1 so I can have the "real" tool, but a piece of PVC works pretty well for most 1 1/8 races.

[ClutchCargo]

Just because they're a bike shop doesn't mean they know what they're doing. After watching a local LBS put a crown race on a suspension fork with the dropouts on the floor, I decided they were morons. Yes- pounding the tool mostly made the fork bounce a lot, although the race finally did seat somehow.

I do want the CRS-1 so I can have the "real" tool, but a piece of PVC works pretty well for most 1 1/8 races.

To your and Louis's point, that's why I referred to a "reliable" shop . . .

From the original post, it seemed that the OP didn't have anyone around from whom he could initially learn the process. In my experience a good mechanic usually has no problem explaining what he will do or has done, so it's a good way to learn. But like Mr. Zinn has said, "doin' it yourself means being willing to ruin it yourself." :)

[nightfend]

PVC pipe works great. Get it in a length slightly longer than the steerer tube. Put the race on the fork steerer and push down as far as you can by hand. Put the PVC pipe over the fork steerer. If you get the right size PVC, it should fit exactly onto the race. Then, just invert the fork and pvc pipe, and bang the pvc pipe end onto a hard concrete or tile floor. You won't need a ton of hard whacks before the race is seated. Works great, and because the force is mostly exerted on the PVC pipe and race, the carbon fork will be undamaged.

[nebraskacycling]

PVC pipe works great. Get it in a length slightly longer than the steerer tube. Put the race on the fork steerer and push down as far as you can by hand. Put the PVC pipe over the fork steerer. If you get the right size PVC, it should fit exactly onto the race. Then, just invert the fork and pvc pipe, and bang the pvc pipe end onto a hard concrete or tile floor. You won't need a ton of hard whacks before the race is seated. Works great, and because the force is mostly exerted on the PVC pipe and race, the carbon fork will be undamaged.

I did this and it worked just fine, but when I flipped it over I noticed something moving around inside the fork. It makes a little noise when I move it around, but I will see if it is noisy when I ride. Ah well it's just on the cross bike anyway! Thanks guys a $2 piece of PVC saved a trip to the lbs.

[sg8357]

Crescent wrench & dead blow hammer.

Tap into place, rotate Crescent, support fork on edge workshop table.

Taught to me by authentic Sovieteski engineer, he used to
install turbine bearing with the same technique.

[oldpotatoe]

Wow quite a few more responses than I expected. This gives me a few different options if the shop tries to rob me this afternoon. They are friendly even though I am a new face to the area so hopefully it won't be too bad. Thanks for all the cool options and methods!

Not sure how to respond. Too bad you think, because you are new, the shop will automatically try to screw(rob?) you(or charge a fair fee, depends on point of view, I guess).

Do ya suppose they have one of these?

Park CRS-1..not a ton of $($70) but it adds up. Plus ya know, they gotta pay those pesky things like rent, insurance, labor, utilities, phone, blah, blah.

Sensitive to these things, so I apologize in advance but it's 'likely' the shop is just trying to keep the lights on....

[jemoryl]

Put the fork in the freezer??? The race in the oven ???

I don't understnd the reluctance to take it to the LBS, unless a reliable shop just isn't available. I build my bikes and do 95% of the work on them, but for stuff like this, where specialty tools are called for, experience counts and you could easily trash your component or frame, I'm happy for the LBS to handle. Something like this is not going to cost you much, and you're supporting the local guys (buy a box of power bars while you're there, or as someone suggested, take the opportunity to talk shop (no pun) over a 6 pack (sorry, cafe misto !).

I needed a bearing pressed on to my fork (integrated HS - but it would be just like pressing on a crown race) and one shop said they would do it for "$55, if I could wait several days". My jaw dropped. Got another place to do it while I waited for $10. Now I just buy the tools and do it myself....

[93legendti]

We charge $10. I paid it when I was a customer. Seemed fair to me.

[ClutchCargo]

I needed a bearing pressed on to my fork (integrated HS - but it would be just like pressing on a crown race) and one shop said they would do it for "$55, if I could wait several days". My jaw dropped. Got another place to do it while I waited for $10. Now I just buy the tools and do it myself....

Well, like I said, it's not really worth going to a shop that you don't trust or know (by word of mouth or personal experience). Maybe I should feel fortunate -- my LBS just serviced a Campy Record headset (first time in 10+ years) and 2 CK hubs for $30. Dropped it off on Sunday and told 'em I needed it by the next weekend; they called Monday afternoon to say it was ready.

[jemoryl]

Well, like I said, it's not really worth going to a shop that you don't trust or know (by word of mouth or personal experience). Maybe I should feel fortunate -- my LBS just serviced a Campy Record headset (first time in 10+ years) and 2 CK hubs for $30. Dropped it off on Sunday and told 'em I needed it by the next weekend; they called Monday afternoon to say it was ready.

I do most of my own work and seldom need a shop, and, in keeping with my downwardly mobile lifestyle, don't feel like throwing my money around casually. The expensive shop was one of the only ones around here which is Campy-friendly and has a good reputation, the one that charged $10 was your typical Specialized/Trek type place with a somewhat hippie background.

[Marz]

This has worked well for me in the past. (although I now have the "special" fittings that match the flange on the race)

It helps to have a helper hold the legs of the fork. Don't put the ends on the ground and blast away at the crown race.

With respect, forget about someone holding legs. I've done two crown races before without problems. Use a longer PVC tube than steerer, then turn the fork with plastic tube upside down and bash tube on the ground. No fuss, no problem.

[Marz]

I just take the PVC tube with a cap in one end, slide it over the steerer, flip the entire deal over and tap the PVC into the floor of my garage. This way dropouts are never in danger.

Grease the race first and press it on by hand to get it started. Golden

Apologies, hadn't read this post.

Just like he said.