Skewer problem?

[Dromen]

Having a problem..cannot get the skewer to hold on the forged Columbus horizontal dropouts on my late 1990's steel frame. Already re-wrecked the chain stay paint that was rubbed off when i purchased the frame and the graphics on my <1 mile gatorskin hardshells(nice reminder to check skewer no matter what). I have tighten the sucka as tight as i physically can...to the point where i need to get in a squat position and use some body leverage to open it. It still comes loose. I am using the what appear to be original DA skewers that were advertised as being part of the original 1997 7700 hubs/group. The only thing i can see that is different from my other skewers are the teeth/serrations seem worn or smoother. Obviously the dropouts are steel. Are the teeth not grabbing the outside of the dropouts or is it something else?

I put a steel training skewer on temporarily to see if a steel skewer with new teeth would help....two mile ride home from trainer, so far it is holding but dont want to push it until i hear from the forum.

Thank you in advance.

[cmbicycles]

Check the serations on the hub locknuts as well. Both those and the serations on the skewer are there to help hold the wheel on. Sometimes skewer cams wear out and don't hold as tight too. If your trainer skewer is holding, chances are you found a substantial part of the problem, but it is worth checking the other parts mentioned.

[Hartlin]

Very similar problem that I was having;

http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=106309

Resolved it by using an internal cam Shimano skewer and installing adjustments screws which were previously removed.

[ultraman6970]

Anybody can tell me why the regular columbus road drop out is called horizontal?? i mean... if you look at it you cant get more horizontal than a track campagnolo dropout, even columbus made track drop outs... track dropouts are called horizontal too??

So why not better call those road dropouts just road dropouts instead of horizontal?? just the semantic is very confusing...

Just changing the subject... sorry :D

[Dromen]

cmbikes and hartlin.

Thanks for input and thread share. I have adjustment screws set for skewer approx half way into dropout. I just had the bike disassembled and reassembled by a pro. I think he would have caught a spacing issue. Hub serrations i will have checked. Like mentioned, skewer teeth seem worn. Going out for a medium ride tomorrow AM, XX fingers on steel skewer fix.

If this is a fix, what steel internal cam would anyone recommend? BTW, slipping DA skewers seem to be AL. I work in the metals industry and can see softer AL serrations grabbing harder chromed steel an inherent problem. Thoughts?

Once again, great info from the forum, thanks....so far.

[oliver1850]

Any chance the axle is a bit too long, sticking too far through the dropouts?

[Dromen]

I will check out the axle.

Note. This 1997 frame and build was advertised as having original components(Complete DA 7700). IF TRUE, and it makes sense from seller trustworthiness and circa date of each, its seems strange the axles would have been too long for all these years.

Then again, i have been wrong only 100 or so times already today.

[oliver1850]

Yeah it would be more common to find an axle length problem on an old hub that someone had respaced, using a MTB axle.

You might try checking the total travel of the problem skewer. I just checked a NOS Superbe Pro, and it has about .070" of travel.

[Dromen]

The training skewer with sharp sterrations did the trick. 40 or so miles on "inconsistent" chicago roads. Nary a slip of the skewer. No i need to find a new or near it rear DA alloy skewer to match the front dude. Paid is an option also i guess.

Thanks to all for input. Once again, an education.

[rounder]

I had the same problem on my NHX (that i love). It was pretty much the only bike i rode for 15 years. It came with 7-speed Shimano but had the stays respaced so i could use 8-speed Shimano, and worked with with no problem. I got adventuress and changed to Campy 10-speed and had to buy a set of (used Mavic) wheels to be compatible. The wheel slipped through the dropouts three times. The wheel got locked up in the stays and I skidded each time...freaked me out. I took the bike to a trusted shop and their solution was to back out the adjusting screws some and repace the rear Mavic skewer with a shop skewer. I rode it a few times with no incidents, but moved on and got a newer bike for peace of mind.

I still have the NHX but am not sure what to do with it because i do not know whether it is a bike problem or a skewer problem. Don't want my problem to become someone else's problem. It is hilly here and do not want to crash going down a big hill.

[lhuerta]

First off, as you probably already know, if you are torquing the skewer down as tight as you say you are, you are likely causing damage to your bearings as well. The fix is quite easy, if you have the proper tools and skill. First, check that your rear triangle is spaced correctly to match your hub. Second, check that your dropouts are properly aligned and completely parallel. If you don't have the frame and dropout alignment tools to do the job, seek the help of a professional.

Lou

[d.vader123]

Wait. Let me get this straight. You can ruin your bike by over-tightening the skewers? That sounds obvious, but what's not obvious is how much is too much?

How does over-tightening ruin the bearings? How does it ruin the dropouts? My bike rides fine the way I have it, but am I supposed to notice a difference in my ride if I over-tightened the skewers?

I don't want to tightening too little and have other serious problems during a ride.