Campagnolo Outboard Bearing Cups

[DY123]

Hi Guys,

Coming up on my first install of a non-square taper BB. An Athena Power Torque.

I've been browsing the internet and looking at all the different type of installs for the cups. The 3 methods that Campy used to recommend seemed a bit strange.

In my instructions there is just one way explained. I guess now they've gone back to the old type instructions of torquing the cups down with no loctite.

It says to "clean and degrease" the BB threads......Who is greasing theirs and who is cleaning theirs? I've always greased square taper BB threads.

Thanks

[TMB]

Hi Guys,

Coming up on my first install of a non-square taper BB. An Athena Power Torque.

I've been browsing the internet and looking at all the different type of installs for the cups. The 3 methods that Campy used to recommend seemed a bit strange.

In my instructions there is just one way explained. I guess now they've gone back to the old type instructions of torquing the cups down with no loctite.

It says to "clean and degrease" the BB threads......Who is greasing theirs and who is cleaning theirs? I've always greased square taper BB threads.

Thanks

I grease them, have since the first one I used. Have no problems. I don't care if they say to grease or not. It's threads. I grease them.

[ultraman6970]

Have not done PT ever but at least with UT what I do is this...

Grease threads in frame (both sides)...

Put teflon tape in the cups (both sides).

Tight the cups really well... they wont go anywhere so just crank them well.

Put grease in the cups really well. I use lithium grease, other guys use park... whatever will do IMO.

Put the driver side in, put the clip in.

Put nds crank

Put grease and teflon tape in the center bolt (you dont want the bolt to get stuck in there, neither get lose)

Tight really well...

Ready to go and no creaks.

Noticed that the 2011 or 2011 version of the UT cups has a stronger wavy washer. Imagine is a revision due to the creak some guys get.

if you get creaks take the crankset bolts out (or do it previous to put the cranks in the frame), the 5 bolts, grease them around, grease the holes in the spider too, grease where chainrings seat aswell, assembly and install the crankset. Have noticed that sometimes specially when the stuff is new for some reason you get a darn creak and comes from the bolts. A friend just use oil. I put grease, last longer.

I imagine that you can do a similar procedure with PT... between you and me the instructions that campy gives you just sucks.

[Black Dog]

The campy cups have a layer of thread lock on the threads and that is probably why they recommend cleaning the frame's threads first. I would still put on a generous coating of anti seize compound on any threaded surface.

[zmudshark]

Grease on the BB, teflon tape on the cups.

[Bob Loblaw]

Carbon or steel or Ti frame? Italian threaded or English? That all matters.

For Ti, definitely anti-seize only. For carbon, Teflon tape and grease to stop the creaks. Aluminum or steel, just grease, unless it's Italian threaded, then add teflon tape.

Of course you also grease the inside of the cups like crazy and the connection between the halves of the spindle. Teflon tape on the bolt.

Also there's a torque spec for the bolt, and cups too. It's in the literature that came with the crank.

BL

[oldpotatoe]

Hi Guys,

Coming up on my first install of a non-square taper BB. An Athena Power Torque.

I've been browsing the internet and looking at all the different type of installs for the cups. The 3 methods that Campy used to recommend seemed a bit strange.

In my instructions there is just one way explained. I guess now they've gone back to the old type instructions of torquing the cups down with no loctite.

It says to "clean and degrease" the BB threads......Who is greasing theirs and who is cleaning theirs? I've always greased square taper BB threads.

Thanks

How I have installed all UT and PT cups and cranks.

Prep frame, important to have BB shell faced and chased.

Grease inside BB shell, any grease.

Grease inside BB cups, around bearing and amoungst the wavy washer thing on LH PT cup. Tighten the cups well to the frame, TIGHT.

Grease around bearings, all around, grease is a seal.

Install RH arm, clip in.

Install LH arm..UT-grease bolt, install to torque, PT arm, grease bolt, install to torque. Don't fortget the wavy washer.

Been doing it this way since UT came out in 2007, since PT came out in 2011, never had a problem after dozens(hundreds?) of installs.