What's the best way to polish a Titanium post?

[akelman]

No, that's not a euphemism. I'd really like to polish a Ti seatpost that has some pretty nasty insertion marks on it. Um, that's not a euphemism either. Any advice for low-effort methods* would be greatly appreciated.

* Also not a euphemism.

[pavel]

#0000 steel wool if the scratches arent too deep, then a polish like simichrome or neverdull (the wadded stuff in a can.)

If the scratches are deep, what I usually do is use masking tape to tape off up to *your* insertion line, then use medium emery cloth or sand paper to get rid of the really nasty stuff. Then use steel wool in increasing levels of fineness (is that a real word?) to get it nice and clean, then the simichrome.

I find that polishing circular/cylindrical stuff like posts and stems is actually easier - you can just grab a handful of steel wool, wrap the post and twist continuously.

[BillG]

No, that's not a euphemism. I'd really like to polish a Ti seatpost that has some pretty nasty insertion marks on it. Um, that's not a euphemism either. Any advice for low-effort methods* would be greatly appreciated.

* Also not a euphemism.

Is this a euphemism?

[spartanKid]

Is this a euphemism?

sounds like and incredibly painful euphemism

[old_fat_and_slow]

...

[aaronf]

Just remember you are not removing the scratches so much as removing all the material around the scratches to make them level out. Takes time.
If they are really deep, do not remove material below your insertion point, as the diameter will end up less.

[fuzzalow]

What was said ^^^ is spot on.

I have done this too with a titanium Chorus seatpost. I will add that you will need to obtain a variety of higher grit sandpaper which is normally not found at the Borg. The grit you start with depends on how deep the scratches are in the post. Then progress through the grits (e.g. 400, 600, 1000, 1200) in sanding out the scratches. I used a buffing wheel on a bench grinder to finish. It took a while.

BTW, the joke was on me because after it was all done, the post couldn't be level-adjusted to a fine enough degree to work for me. Campy Ti posts did not have a the 0.5mm serrations like the later carbon posts did. I didn't check first. Doh!

[zmudshark]

Be careful around Ti. I doubt you would generate a hazardous amount, but it can be dangerous. I have no idea what the dust does to your lungs, but I bet it's not a good thing. I believe it's worse than normal aluminum dust.

Apart from that, above advice is good. Don't sand below insertion, sand wet, start with whatever it takes to remove gouges and work up to finer grades. I usually finish seatposts with 2000 and then put on the buffer. Depends on what you are looking for. I've never done a Ti post, but if you'd like to donate a 27.2, I'd be glad to report my results.

[akelman]

Okay, this sound miserable. Maybe I'll just sell the post and look for one in better shape. Thanks, all.

[thinpin]

Okay, this sound miserable. Maybe I'll just sell the post and look for one in better shape. Thanks, all.

Aw, cop out!
Give it a go. Its therapeutic, like polishing your boots in the army - helps fade out all the numbskulls.

[thwart]

helps fade out all the numbskulls
Is that a euphemism?

[old_fat_and_slow]

...

[phcollard]

#0000 steel wool

Bronze wool is better. Or Scotchbrite even better.

[Ahneida Ride]

NEVER use steel wool ....... :no:

It will imbed micro particles of steel that can rust !

This straight from the mouth of Kelly Bedford.

Use varying degrees of scotch bright ..

[Jaq]

Think of it like riding into a headwind. It's not hard. It's just tedious.

Avoid steel wool with soft metals like aluminum. With titanium, it's less of an issue, but it's also less effective, as steel-wool has a harder time abrading the material.

Sandpaper is for wood. Emery cloth is for metal. If you do use sandpaper, use wet-or-dry.

The goal with each successive grade is to smooth out the scratches from the last grade. The best way to do this is to change sanding directions by 90 degrees each time you move up a grade.

If you don't have a grinding/polishing wheel, you can use a high-speed drill with a small polishing wheel held in an arbor. Polishing wheels come in various stiffnesses. They also require polishing compound. Compound is sold in small paper tubes and has a hard, clay-like consistency. A stiff wheel with medium compound will very readily buff out the sanding marks of 400 grit paper. Even so, you'll want to move to a softer wheel with a fine polishing compound after that.

Finish by hand with a soft cloth and Simichrome or Haggerty's.

Here's my latest project, removing the anodizing and polishing Mavic Reflexes.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7091/7025951263_1aacdcf7df.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52794509@N07/7025951263/)

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7269/7025949585_71ff86f98b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52794509@N07/7025949585/)

The front wheel, laced 3-leading, 3-trailing, but not tensioned or trued.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7124/7035872249_f79a289137.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/52794509@N07/7035872249/)

[cmbicycles]

3m makes a scotch brite (it was red) you can buy in a long roll. I used it to finish taking off the chiped clearcoat on a spectrum ti bike. It put a good shine on the frame, but not a polished look. You can use long sections and just wrap em around the post and work it back and forth pretty easily... not sure where I got the stuff as it was years ago, maybe grainger or msc but you could google it Im sure.

[rkalams]

I polished some "blasted finish" ti Groovy luv bars to a polished finish. Took serious effort but was worth it. Started at like 600 grit wet sandpaper and progressed upward. Then I got a 6" polishing wheel for a hand drill and went to town with polishing compound and finish mother's mag polish.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3189/3745237136_4dccd911d6.jpg

[soulspinner]

I polished some "blasted finish" ti Groovy luv bars to a polished finish. Took serious effort but was worth it. Started at like 600 grit wet sandpaper and progressed upward. Then I got a 6" polishing wheel for a hand drill and went to town with polishing compound and finish mother's mag polish.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3189/3745237136_4dccd911d6.jpg

Came out nice!