Quill stem question

[eippo1]

Quick question regarding quills. I've mostly been using threadless stems and have had no trouble at all setting up and messing with my position when building up bikes.

I've recently acquired and built up an Ironman Centurion and have a quill on there with too much negative drop for me. I have other quill stems, but really don't want to go to the hassle of stripping everything off on side of the bars, putting on a new stem, getting on, saying, "nope, not right" and then doing it all over again.

My question is if there are any shortcuts that you guys use when messing around with fits and quills? Or is there really no other option?

[oliver1850]

You can do it on paper if you know where you want the bar to end up.

[stusf]

You can buy replacement quill stems with a removable face-plate. That way you only need to strip the bars once.

[fuzzalow]

Not much to save on experimenting with a quill stem setup, except not wrapping the bars. Changing quill stem with shifters is a lot of work, better to know the reach from saddle tip to center of bars so to avoid having to re-do.

If by too much negative drop you mean saddle to bar drop, well, just raise the stem. Don't go past the limit line on the stem.

[EricEstlund]

As suggested, you can work it out on paper if you are trying to match an existing fit. Barring that, head to a shop with a sizing stem and ask them to help you out.

[eippo1]

Thanks for the responses. It does match the reach of my other bikes almost exactly as how I worked it out on paper.

The problem is that the drop needed to attain the reach is slightly uncomfortable on this bike since it has a shorter top tube. I wanted to experiment with a slightly shorter reach and drop (knowing that I might have to switch back), but it seems that there is no easy way to do this aside from going the faceplate quill route. Hate the look of those, though.

[Ken Robb]

raising a quill stem also brings it back so if that doesnt work for you you can get a Nitto stem with 190mm or even 225mm long quills which should get you where you want to be. If you don't like the up and back you can probably just push the quill deeper until you're back where you started. I would guess the 190mm would be the one to try so you can still bury it pretty deep without bottoming out in the steerer.

[Fishbike]

A few weeks ago I lamented here about the nuisance of swapping two quill stems on two bike. Yeah, it was time-consuming to pull two sets of bars and shifters apart, swap the quills, test ride both and re-wrap the bars. But I eventually got Humpty Dumpty (x2) back together again and am very happy with the improved fit on both bikes. So my suggestion would be to take the time get the proper fit, even if you have to pull the thing apart a few time. You will be glad you did it right. Just wait until you are in the right frame of mind to do it. Good luck!

[kenmetzger]

Some quills still have a more classic look with removable parts for switching easily.

http://www.dedaelementi.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage_additional_images2.tpl&product_id=200&category_id=6&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=89&lang=en

[Grant McLean]

You should be aware that the handlebars you are comparing may also have
quite different dimensions in reach or drop, or both.

-g

[oliver1850]

3T also made an extended quill stem. Seller told me this quill had about 25 mm more extension than a Synthesis. I wish now I'd purchased both of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/320882615911?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

If you want, I could send you a Profile H2O or 2 that are 90 degrees. I think I have a couple of different lengths. They have removable faceplates. After you figure out what works you could find something with the same dimensions that looks nicer.

[schneiderrd]

Look used to make an adjustable stem called the "Ergo Stem". Pricey but you can really dial in your fit.

[bobswire]

3T also made an extended quill stem. Seller told me this quill had about 25 mm more extension than a Sythesis. I wish now I'd purchased both of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/320882615911?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

If you want, I could send you a Profile H2O or 2 that are 90 degrees. I think I have a couple of different lengths. They have removable faceplates. After you figure out what works you could find something with the same dimensions that looks nicer.

Good to see they are bring back the Murex but this time in polished silver. I'll have to check one of those out.

[eippo1]

Wow, I love the look of that Murex. Might have to go that route if the Nitto or Salsa don't work.

And Grant, I never factored in the handlebars. They are actually very different from my other bars now that I think of it. To be honest I don't really like them either. Well maybe it's just time to suck it up and remove the whole shebang and start over. The Nitto stem has an extended steerer and so I'll start with that (and then I can use the Nitto bars that wouldn't thread through the stem that I have on the bike now).

I figure I'll finally swap the brakes on my cross bike to get that up and running and then do this bike on the trainer with a clear afternoon and a nice sampling of dark beers. Thanks for the suggestions. :beer:

[T-Crush]

Look used to make an adjustable stem called the "Ergo Stem". Pricey but you can really dial in your fit.

+1

If you know where you want to end up, there are certainly llighter and probably prettier options. But if you're still searching for the "perfect fit" this is about as good as it gets. I have one, and it works. Just make sure you torque it correctly, had one come loose in the middle of a century once. Not fun.

[fogrider]

to check the fit, you can just pull the existing stem and handlebar out and put in a new stem with new handlebar. then you can just check the fit with a few set ups with a few new stems. once you find the fit you need, you can pull the parts off.