Jagwire Racer kits are tough cookies & A Campy 10s revelation

[stien]

Just cabled up my Caad9 with Daytona 10s tonight with a Jagwire Racer kit (shop swapped me some Campy cables) and wow :eek:

Those housings are incredibly strong and don't flex at all. My cutters are quite dull now and setting up the rear brake was quite the task (this isn't my first time either).

I must say though, the compressionless housing makes a big difference in both shifting and braking. This is also my first C10 drivetrain, I'm thoroughly impressed. This is even older 10s (daytona) and I like how it shifts better than 6600/7800 and Force. It's much more sensitive on the upshifts and is capable of dumping the entire cassette. Incredible. Pics when I finish the tape tomorrow after work.

Sorry I know this is a mainly Campy forum but I've never had it before. Fwiw I am running Force cranks because the frame is BB30, and no that doesn't bother me.

[Viper]

Use it for cable housing leading into the RD. Might use the whole set oneday.

:beer:

[buldogge]

I often use the Jagwire Racer kits with Campy 10 and 11.

Only issue I run into is with the metallic gold (or silver) sets. The fit into the derailleur position of the Ergos is very poor because the metallic housing is a little greater OD due to the clear cover.

As you know, you must also switch to Campy inners or get the file out.

-Mark in St. Louis

[apeescape]

I've been working in a shop for about 10 years now and I find that correctly setup campy cables have no rival. The only system that comes close would be the fully sealed GORE setup.

[esldude]

Recently used the same Jagwire kit on a build. I too found it a bit slicker, and stiffer than most. Pretty nice cable sets for not that much extra money. I wanted to go with the Nokon's. But the Jagwire was a step up from most and in colors that matched trim of my frame very nicely.

[54ny77]

I just did 2 bikes with Jagwire Racer housing/cables and am very pleased with the performance. I really like the way they do the brake leader/housing that goes under the handlebars. Easy to work with, fairly simple to cut (the braided stuff, which I used, can be a little quirky but nothing major). The teflon cables are swank. No idea if they make a difference in shifting quality/smoothness, but the cool thing about black teflon cables is when you accidentally cut the housing to fit with the cable still inside, you get to have one silver Shimano cable as temporary backup and one black teflon cable on the other side of the downtube.

;) :bike:

[fallen86]

do you guys ever find the housing incredibly stiff when you have to use a short section for the rear caliper? The braking and shifting is great, dont get me wrong, but it is rigid!

[54ny77]

not really. do you have it cut a tad too long perhaps? for example, i set the length from rear top tube braze on to the point that ferrule just barely meets the brake barrel in parallel with cable disconnected (i.e., caliper fully extended). that keeps the arc to a minimum and also eliminates any binding.

others may have a different approach, and who knows maybe the way i set it up is wrong, but it works just dandy, looks good, and by golly i'll stick with it.

by the way yokozuna reaction is ridiculously stiff. the jagwire racer is not as stiff.

gratuitous photo of one bike's setup...

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z113/jpmz06/Bike/IMG_4145.jpg

do you guys ever find the housing incredibly stiff when you have to use a short section for the rear caliper? The braking and shifting is great, dont get me wrong, but it is rigid!

[stien]

do you guys ever find the housing incredibly stiff when you have to use a short section for the rear caliper? The braking and shifting is great, dont get me wrong, but it is rigid!

Yep, I had to abandon the POP ferrule in the rear in order to get it to work. The older Daytona return spring could hardly compete with the stiff housing + the ferrule. It took a lot of experimenting.

[oldpotatoe]

I've been working in a shop for about 10 years now and I find that correctly setup campy cables have no rival. The only system that comes close would be the fully sealed GORE setup.

except when the coating on the gore inner wires starts to shred.

On 11s, I swap for Wheels brass ferrules and always use 5mm housing back by the RD...with more 5mm brass ferrules.

on 10s(pre 2009) Campag and all others, 5mm der housing, brass ferrules.

[stien]

Did a shakedown ride this afternoon. Sorted out some front shifting issues by removing a plastic tab on the inside of the outer part of the FD cage. Had a couple instances of the rear shifter getting stuck and not being able to shift, not cool. It shifts great and doesn't "lose" gears if you pull on the cable so I'm thinking sticky old grease?

http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu321/cleverbastid/IMAG0161.jpg

[54ny77]

housing issues aside, that's a nice caad bike. :cool:

[stien]

housing issues aside, that's a nice caad bike. :cool:

Thanks, it's one of the team issue BB30 frames. Kinda bummed about not being able to run Campy cranks without an adapter that'll most likely start creaking but the Force crank isn't the worst in the world. It's all Daytona otherwise.

[buldogge]

Check your hoods and make sure they are seated in their notches. It looks like the section closest to the bar is pushed into the thumb lever slot...happens quite easily.

-Mark

[wasfast]

Campy has cups for Ultratorque with BB30 bottom bracket. No adapters needed.

[oliver1850]

Just what we needed, more competition in the used Campy 10 market. :p

Great looking CAAD9, one is still on my want list.


Did you perhaps have pressure on one control lever while trying to shift with the other? Make sure you're not resting your thumb on the upshift lever while trying to downshift, and vice versa. Pressure on both at the same time locks it.

[stien]

Just what we needed, more competition in the used Campy 10 market. :p

Great looking CAAD9, one is still on my want list.


Did you perhaps have pressure on one control lever while trying to shift with the other? Make sure you're not resting your thumb on the upshift lever while trying to downshift, and vice versa. Pressure on both at the same time locks it.

And I'm a shark, when I'm looking ;)

Won't be too often now, I got a real job, am getting a new car and apartment with the girlfriend.

I believe you hit it on the nose, I'm still getting used to hands off the other lever while I shift. Any way to unlock it easily? It seems to just fix itself after some time.