Canti brakes too hard to squeeze

[phcollard]

Hi folks,

I need your help again. So I built the Cross Check for the girlfriend this afternoon. I got the Cane Creek SCX-5 cantilever brakes and there were easier to mount than I thought.

Problem is that they are quite hard to squeeze, even for me. They're my first canti brakes ever so I don't know if it's normal. Definitely harder than my road brakes and they require a good strong hand to actuate.

I have Shimano 105 5600 levers and I used a std yoke instead of the link wire. The traverse wire makes an angle of about 90 degrees. Any idea what I did wrong? Please don't tell me my mistake was not to get mini-V's :bike:

Your ideas are appreciated! Thanks a lot!

Philippe.

[jds108]

Are the pads on straight or threaded posts? If you want to stick with those fixed-length straddle cables, try moving the pads inward (easy if the posts aren't threaded). This will result in the arms being further out and the junction of the main wire to straddle dropping down. That will increase power but decrease pad travel.

Assuming that cable travel is smooth and you've got decent pads, they're making good contact with the rim, rims aren't glazed, etc.

I put some old cantilevers on and the pad material just wasn't what it used to be. New pads to the rescue in my case.

-Jeff

[Bob Loblaw]

Well, here's an obvious one, forgive me if you have this down already. The canti posts have three holes. Whichever hole you insert the end of the spring into determines the tension. If you put them in the top hole, that will decrease the tension to its minimum. I believe the springs are specific to right and left side, too, so even if you have the ends in the top hole, try swapping them left to right.

BL

[phcollard]

Well, here's an obvious one, forgive me if you have this down already. The canti posts have three holes. Whichever hole you insert the end of the spring into determines the tension. If you put them in the top hole, that will decrease the tension to its minimum. I believe the springs are specific to right and left side, too, so even if you have the ends in the top hole, try swapping them left to right.

BL

We have a winner :)

I just tried to move the springs to the lower hole. Fiddled a bit with the tension screws and they are now as perfect as can be! No worries for the obvious, I'm a total noob when it comes to cantis. Thanks a lot Bob.

[Bob Loblaw]

My pleasure, even though I had it backwards, as you discovered. The LOWEST hole is the lowest tension. Glad you got it figured out. :beer:

BL

[nate2351]

http://photo-dictionary.com/photofiles/list/4482/5949hand_exercise_grip.jpg

sorry couldnt resist being a smart ass. Glad you solved it

[deanster]

http://photo-dictionary.com/photofiles/list/4482/5949hand_exercise_grip.jpg

sorry couldnt resist being a smart ass. Glad you solved it

Very Funny! Thanks.

[deanster]

Hi folks,

I need your help again. So I built the Cross Check for the girlfriend this afternoon. I got the Cane Creek SCX-5 cantilever brakes and there were easier to mount than I thought.

Problem is that they are quite hard to squeeze, even for me. They're my first canti brakes ever so I don't know if it's normal. Definitely harder than my road brakes and they require a good strong hand to actuate.

I have Shimano 105 5600 levers and I used a std yoke instead of the link wire. The traverse wire makes an angle of about 90 degrees. Any idea what I did wrong? Please don't tell me my mistake was not to get mini-V's :bike:

Your ideas are appreciated! Thanks a lot!

Philippe.

Have some one (expert) look at your installation. The angle of the arm is very important when setting up the straddle cable. Properly installed the pull shouldn't be that stressful. However, Cantis do require more force than a good set of double pole road brakes.