Would a 1 x 9 drivetrain work?

[Louis]

I'm brainstorming here, so this may sound kooky:

Would it be too much cross-chaining, or could one go with a single chainring in front and a 9-spd cassette in back and be able to use the entire range of cogs? (assume Shimano, say an 11-34)

For some reason that strikes me as a potentially neat option if you're not going to be doing lots of climbing or time-trialing. Based on personal experience I know I could live with the size of the jumps from cog to cog, so that would not be an issue. (at least not for me)

Has anyone ever done this, or seen it done?

[eddief]

so while your chain might not like it so much, seems it would work just fine. and with chain ring spacers you ought to be able to mount the ring so it is aligned with the middle of the cassette. no? i run triple cranks. when in the middle ring, i can usually get all 9 cogs to work close to perfect with just a tad of trimming. so with a single ring i say go for it. would this be instead of a new car? :)

[xjahx]

I have run a 1x10 SRAM setup since they have existed. The largest that I have done is 46t front with 11-36 rear. Any of the read derailleurs will work with the road shifters within the SRAM fam.

[Frankwurst]

I have an old MTB that I run 8 speed on set up with a single chainring. Works for me and it's seen a fair amount of use and abuse. :beer:

[palincss]

You might need a chain keeper to prevent the chain from dropping.

[Steve in SLO]

Look at pics of the Steelman I am selling now. I have that setup and it has worked fine.

[fourflys]

people run this cross all the time as far as I know...

[fourflys]

Look at pics of the Steelman I am selling now. I have that setup and it has worked fine.


Are you trying to say Louis needs a Steelman as well? :D

[Andrewlcox]

I have been thinking about this too. I live in central Illinois with flat roads as far as the eye can see. I thought this would be especially good for my flat terrain. If I ever do find a hill it will be small and I can always stand on the pedals to power up it.

Andy

[Steve in SLO]

Are you trying to say Louis needs a Steelman as well? :D

Hmmm...what are you saying...as well?

[victoryfactory]

I have two bikes set up 1x9 it works fine.
if you can manage to get the chain line
as close to centered as
possible, No sweat, no dropping chains.
VF

[gdw]

1x8 and 1x9 gearing has been popular with mountain bikers for years and works great. Spot, Redline, Haro, and probably a few other companies have offered production 29ers with it.

[oldpotatoe]

I'm brainstorming here, so this may sound kooky:

Would it be too much cross-chaining, or could one go with a single chainring in front and a 9-spd cassette in back and be able to use the entire range of cogs? (assume Shimano, say an 11-34)

For some reason that strikes me as a potentially neat option if you're not going to be doing lots of climbing or time-trialing. Based on personal experience I know I could live with the size of the jumps from cog to cog, so that would not be an issue. (at least not for me)

Has anyone ever done this, or seen it done?

Bunches of cross racers do this. Just need to have some thingy so you don't toss your chain off the single ring up front.

[Chance]

Bunches of cross racers do this. Just need to have some thingy so you don't toss your chain off the single ring up front.

That was key for me too. Ended up using an old derraileur locked in place to keep chain from jumping off ring when crossing rough tracks or other big bumps. Just spread it a little to keep it from rubing chain across all gears. Not ideal but it worked.

[lonoeightysix]

I'm using a Salsa Ring Dinger on the outside, and a N Gear Jump Stop on the inside, GS RD on a MTB setup.

[Bruce K]

Mount the chain ring on the inner face of the crank then use a K-Edge chain keeper on the inside (at least that's my favorite), with a BBG (of you want cool colors), Thorne, Salsa, or whatever chain keeper ring (you don't need a bash guard on the road) you want on the outside.

BK

[yakstone]

I run a 1 X 10 for cross and also have a MTB set up for 1 X 9. Chainkeeper on the inside, BBG bashguard on the outside. There are any number of otpions for chainkeepers on the market.
Works great and you aren't carrying DER and rings that you won't use.

[stien]

So to echo everyone else and add my own 0.02:

Mountain and 'cross, sure why not?

Road?
IMO why limit yourself? It's not like you'll save much money if you're buying the parts and then you can't take your bike everywhere.

[Louis]

and then you can't take your bike everywhere.

This wouldn't be a "take everywhere" bike.

[Ralph]

Like others have said. it'll work fine. I run a triple front crank with 42 in middle. Chain line with middle 42 over whole cassette is decent with about all but the two most extreme inner and outer cog. And OK for those cogs occasionally. So if me.....I would make sure my front chainring makes straight line back to middle of cassette, and would probably make up cassette so my biggest and smallest rear cog not used often.

[Louis]

Like others have said. it'll work fine. I run a triple front crank with 42 in middle. Chain line with middle 42 over whole cassette is decent with about all but the two most extreme inner and outer cog. And OK for those cogs occasionally.

Ralph, this is the exact situation I'm in, with a triple and a 42 middle. When in the 42 I don't use the biggest or smallest cogs in back. That combination works for the vast majority of my riding, some of which is very hilly. So I figured for rides that aren't that hilly a single 42 front and 11-34 back would cover most of it. The only thing I wasn't sure of was how the extremes would work.

[Ken Robb]

My Riv Allrounder has 52-42-30 rings and 11-34 7 speed shifted by Suntour Power ratchet barends and it works just fine in the middle ring across all rear cogs. Of course the Riv has 45.5cm. chainstays which reduces cross-chain issues. I was just thinking as I rode along a couple of days ago that I do most of my riding in the middle 42 tooth ring and picking the appropriate cog in back.

[Chance]

Ralph, this is the exact situation I'm in, with a triple and a 42 middle. When in the 42 I don't use the biggest or smallest cogs in back. That combination works for the vast majority of my riding, some of which is very hilly. So I figured for rides that aren't that hilly a single 42 front and 11-34 back would cover most of it. The only thing I wasn't sure of was how the extremes would work.

Louis, that being the case what do you expect to gain by removing the other two rings? Obviously you can save a few grams, and if you replace the brifter maybe a few more, but other than a little weight what else? Not questioning your project just curious where you are headed.

If you can ride all day on the 42T middle ring it sounds like you've already accomplished the 1-ring setup for all practical purposes. Maybe you can prevent having to trim the FD a little at both extremes but as you mention above you don't use the biggest and smallest cogs already, so with right adjustment you could hit all others as if it had a single chainring. So is weight savings the goal, aesthetics, ......

[Ralph]

Louis, that being the case what do you expect to gain by removing the other two rings? Obviously you can save a few grams, and if you replace the brifter maybe a few more, but other than a little weight what else? Not questioning your project just curious where you are headed.

If you can ride all day on the 42T middle ring it sounds like you've already accomplished the 1-ring setup for all practical purposes. Maybe you can prevent having to trim the FD a little at both extremes but as you mention above you don't use the biggest and smallest cogs already, so with right adjustment you could hit all others as if it had a single
chainring. So is weight savings the goal, aesthetics, ......

That's sorta how I think. A triple with 42 in front is the best of all worlds. The other two rings don't really weigh anything (less than a pee) ......if anything some weight on crankset might have a flywheel effect, being a plus for everyone except racers who do a lot of fast accelerating. I just ride steady along.

[Louis]

Louis, that being the case what do you expect to gain by removing the other two rings? .....
If you can ride all day on the 42T middle ring it sounds like you've already accomplished the 1-ring setup for all practical purposes.

This wouldn't be a modification of an existing setup, it would be for a "new" build. Just a way to add a difference in personality to my various bikes.

When riding from home I can come close to "all day" riding on the 42T middle, but can't quite make it because of a tough hill at the end. However, because of all the other hills I do in the 42 I know that with it only I can probably do nearly any other ride that does not end at home. So this project would be for an "away game" bike.

[William]

Timely thread...

I've been contemplating this on my mtb. I'm only using the big ring on all terrain (even steep rocky climbs). The only time I switch to the smaller ring is when I accidentally bump the trigger ...usually on rocky technical decents.:crap: Otherwise, I don't use it. For me removing the FD, cables, and trigger shifter has nothing to do with saving weight. It has everything to do with: why carry it around if it's only use is accidental.:confused:

I'll keep all the gears on my cross bike though. :)





William

[AgilisMerlin]

i run a 50tx12-23

works for me. little rollers, mostly flat. 5600 crankset.