Route planning - Val d'Isere to Bourg-d'Oisans

[christian]

With the kids now old enough to spend a week with their grandparents, my wife and I are planning a trip to France for summer 2013 to do some cycling.

We like a fair bit of climbing (did the Dolomites a few years back) and are looking for a week-long tour, so the basic route will be something like:

Grenoble -> Chambery -> Saint-Jorioz -> Ugine -> Chamonix -> Martigny -> Aosta -> Bourg-Saint-Maurice -> Val d'Isere -> ??? -> Bourg-d'Oisans -> Grenoble

But I have a few questions about the Val d'Isere leg to Grenoble. Obviously we want to ride the Alpe d'Huez and the Galibier, but there look to be two options between Val d'Isere and Bourg-d'Oisans.

For those of you who have done it, which of the following is preferable:
- D1006/SS25 to Susa via Moncenisio then SS24 to Briancon (probably my current choice)
- D1006 to Saint-Michel-de-Maurienne then D902 up the north side of the Galibier

Also, in the Dolomites, showing up in town at 4pm and finding a hotel room was a trivial endeavor. Am I safe to assume the same is true in France?

Thanks!

[maxn]

I haven't ridden either of those routes, but you might also want to consider going over Croix de Fer or Glandon. One other thing to mention: Briancon --> Lautaret (last col before you descend towards Bourg) is a beautiful valley, but there is usually a strong headwind from that dir, and a crapload of cars. Also, the descent from lautaret to Bourg goes through a lot of tunnels, for which lighting is recommended. You would have to do this for either of your proposed routes. Croix de Fer/Glandon avoids the tunnels.

Anyway, if you want to do Galibier, it sounds like your decision is already made, no? Or would you use Bourg as a base?

Hotels: I have have pretty mixed results showing up at the last minute in France.

[bocarider]

We were there last summer and did a week of cycling on our own and then did Trek Travel’s Classic Climbs of the Tour.

Here are a few thoughts on your routes and some other ideas to consider:

- Skip your leg to Chamonix on the bikes. It is not a pretty ride into that area, the roads are heavy with tourist traffic and it is in a weird spot to go other places. I would, if you can, hit Chamonix as a tourist. We drove there from Megeve, where we based ourselves for 4 days, and had a great time walking the town, riding the gondola and cable car to the summit of the mountain and just being tourists.

- Do not miss Cormet de Roseland. Do it from the Col du Pre/Beaufort side if possible. The ride down from Col du Pre to the lake and then up the col was perhaps one of the most beautiful rides we have ever done – not to be missed.

- Do the Galibier from the Col du Telegraph side – it’s a beeotch of a climb, but a lot more scenic and historic in terms of the Tour. Take a break at the crest of the Telegraph and eat – you are going to need it going up the Galibier.

- Alp d’Huez is not as scary as you think, compared to the Galibier and the Columbier (which we did, was insanely hard but was just OK as far as scenery, compared to Cormet de Roseland, Galiber and the Col de Aravice). It is a lot of fun to ride. Spend some time at the top in the café where the sign for the triathlon finish is (as opposed to the Tour finish which is up the road and near some condos – not particularly interesting, but worth riding up to for picture purposes). We had lunch there and hung out with cyclists from all over the world. It was really cool.

- If you can, ride the Col de Aravice – it is beautiful and a lot of fun to ride. Great café at the crest of the Col.

- If you are in Grenoble and can drive, consider driving out to near Combe Lavalle and riding the balcony road. It was really beautiful and was a really fun ride.

- In Grenoble, check out Restaurant Le Lyonnais (get the pommes dauphineous – it will clog your arteries but was extraordinary) and Le Coup de Torchon, which was a simple, but classic French restaurant.

I posted a bunch of pictures last year during and after our trip, so take a look at some of those threads by searching my name.


I have all of our routes up on mapmyride.com and ridewithgps.com. PM me if you want access to them or have any questions.

Velotel, who post on here a lot and lives in Grenoble may contradict some of my comments (and possibly restaurant recommendations) and certainly my poor spelling of French words. As he is way more knowledgeable than I, I defer to anything he has to say.

[christian]

Thanks guys, that's useful.

Max - it strikes me that staying in Bourg and doing the Galibier from the south as an out-and-back would require riding those same tunnels twice, between Bourg and Lauteret, so that might not be any better. Will have to have a think about that. But I admit that going over the Glandon/Croix-de-Fer appeals, too.

Bocarider - thanks for the tip on Cormet de Roseland - we could do that, skip Chamonix and Switzerland, and continue to Val D'Isere over Bourg-St.-Maurice.

Maybe skipping the whole Isere river valley between Grenoble and Albertville is better, and I'll recast the tour as something like:

Grenoble -> Allemond -> St Jean-de-Maurienne -> Auigeblanche -> Albertville -> Beaufort -> Bourg Saint-Maurice -> Val d'Isere -> Lanslebourg-Mont-Cenis-> Bourg-d'Oisans -> Grenoble

That would get me over the Croix de Fer (and the Madeleine) on the way out, and over the Telegraphe and Galibier on the way back and I'd avoid the ride from Briancon to Lauteret, even if I'd still have to contend with the tunnels on the way back to Bourg. It would also mean missing the Chartreuse, which I've wanted to ride, but I suppose I could save that for another trip.

[maxn]

actually I was thinking you could go from bourg to croix de fer then over the north side of galibier, then back via lautaret, so one set of tunnels. But that would be a big ride :)

You might also think about staying in Monetier-les-bains. We've rented a chalet there for two years running and love it. It is a nice base from which to do Galibier South, Izoard, Montgenevre and Granon, too. Also, there's a hot spa.

Ive driven through the Lautaret tunnels many times but so far avoided riding through them. If I had to go that way (and it sounds like you will), I would prefer to do them on descent.

Just to make your decision harder, riding in the Chartreuse is *really* nice. Just ask velotel.

http://maxnanao.com/corbel_panoL.jpg

(edited to remove image)

[christian]

Merci encore, Max. I hadn't considered the option of staying in Bourg and riding that as a loop - that would be a nice day ride. Maybe I'll plan a trip including the Chartreuse, and then back south via Auigeblanche and St Jean-de-Maurienne and at the end spend two days in Bourg, with a trip up the Alpe, and doing that loop as a day trip. Options options...

[velotel]

You’re ambitious and strong riders, or hopefully the last. Good route, not sure about the timing but…
Grenoble to Chambèry, you’ll want to go via Col de Porte, down to St Pierre de Chartreuse, over the Cucheron, down, up and over the Granier, down to Chambèry. Optional, over the Col du Coq (just above where I live as it happens) down to St Pierre. Hard climb. Sustained the whole way in fact. Another option, up towards the Col du Coq but instead follow the road to St Pancrasse (where I live), St Hilaire, St Bernard, over the Col de Marcieu, down, up to Ste Marie du Mont, on to Chambèry (could go via the Col de Granier and down to Chambèry but that’s one hard climb). Plateau is as good a ride as you’ll ever do.
Chambèry to Saint-Jorioz though the Bauges. A few options, all good. If you like climbing and want to treat yourself, I’d maybe stay in Challes les Eaux in the chateau then ride around via Montmélian then up and over the Col de Marocaz (hard, sustained, beautiful) down then across to Puygros, over the Col des Prés, down to Aillon le Jeune and just past the village go right and then through Aillon le Vieux and on to the road from Ecole (this is one way fun road across the mountain), turn left, down, then up and over the Col de Leschaux (option, go over the Crêt de Châtillon, very fun downhill to Annecy). Instead of staying in St Jorioz, I’d head to Duingt or to spend more money go around to Talloires and stay/eat there.
Take the bike path to Ugine, turn left, climb the Col de l’Arpettaz, very hard, very sustained, very lovely, one of my favorites), down and up to Flumet and on to Megève. But if you’re tired of climbing, ride the gorge from Ugine to Megève. Fine ride, cars but they give you the space.
Down from Megève to St Gervais and to the valley. Take the train to Chamonix to avoid the highway or ride the back road to Servoz and then the really little road across the mountain above the autoroute and down into Cham. Touristy as heck but for good reason, same reason you’re there. It’s gorgeous and if it’s clear, unbelievably beautiful.
Chamonix to Martigny, great ride, beautiful road, nothing more to add.
Same for Martigny to Aosta, nothing to add. Further down the valley from Aosta is a road up to the base of the Matterhorn, wonderful road, good climb, gorgeous, another time.
Aosta up the valley, you’ll discover what riding with Italian drivers on Italian roads is like. Fortunately not so far. Lovely ride over to Séez. Want some torture or make your wife hate you, cross the Colle San Carlo, double digit grades just about all the way. Catch the road out of Morgex. If you just do the normal road to Petit St B, you’ll have the energy and time to ride to Val d’Isère. Ski town but gorgeous.
Over the Iseran, not so pretty on this side, exceptional on the other side. Go to Lanslebourg.
Over Mont Cenis and down to Susa. A downhill you will drive your cycling buddies nuts talking about for years to come. Up and over Montgenèvre, down to Briançon. Some sweet hotels in the old center town but Monetier les Bains is a favorite village of mine with an excellent hotel (and wine cellar) in the center of the village.
Up to Lautaret, up to the Galibier, a wonderfully gorgeous ride, much more enjoyable that the other side but not the heroic side. Back down to Lautaret, on to Bourg d’Oisans, long, fun semi-downhill except almost always wind blowing up the valley in the afternoon. Sometimes a fierce wind. Or go over the Galib, down the north side, over Croix de Fer, down to Oisans.
On to Grenoble, boring ride, too much traffic but you can turn off and to the Col de Luitel along the way and drop in from the other side. A wee bit shorter than the climb to Alp d’H and maybe a wee bit harder. Excellent climb in a forest so always in the shade on a one lane road with cars all but unknown. Fast downhill off the back side. Or go up to the ski station and down the other road.
I think you ran out of your week a bit ago but you can shift things around to make it work. Like take the train from Grenoble to Albertville, ride to Ugine and join the tour. Lots of options.
Regarding hotels, France is as a rule easier for lodging than Italy in my experience.
As you’ve already seen, people will tell you you have to ride so and so. Problem is there are so many have to rides that you have to live here to ride them and you still won’t have the time. Pick a route, focus on that, you’ll love it, ignore the constant siren calls along the way. Fly in the ointment is you’ll be carrying some weight apparently, minimum preferably, but you’re looking at climbs where you won’t want any additional weight. A problem to solve.
Cheers

[velotel]

Jeez Max, that super wide pic is annoying, have to scroll sideways to see/read anything. Cheers

[christian]

Thanks Hank, that's great advice.

The baggage is no big deal really. Just a Carradice Nelson with a set of lightweight street clothes, leg warmers, a rain jacket, a toothbrush, and some tools which, naturally, I've never had to use. Basically, just something to provide civilized clothes for dinner (while the cycling garb is in the sink). Weighs about 6 kg packed and ready, so not nothing, but not a major penalty, either. Lightweight shoes are the toughest thing to find, but trainers like Saucony Kinvara are ok.

We've done other trips, including the Dolomites and Carinthian Alps, with the same kit.

[velotel]

An alternative to shorten it since you’re looking at a week, though if you were to ask me I’d say plan at least 10 days - 1 day arriving, 1 day for leaving, 7 days for riding, 1 day for goofing off.

1 Grenoble to Chambèry, you’ll want to go via Col de Porte, down to St Pierre de Chartreuse, over the Cucheron, down, up and over the Granier, down to Chambèry. Optional, over the Col du Coq (just above where I live as it happens) down to St Pierre. Hard climb. Sustained the whole way in fact. Another option, up towards the Col du Coq but instead follow the road to St Pancrasse (where I live), St Hilaire, St Bernard, over the Col de Marcieu, down, up to Ste Marie du Mont, on to Chambèry (could go via the Col de Granier and down to Chambèry but that’s one hard climb). Plateau is as good a ride as you’ll ever do.

2 Chambèry to Beaufort though the Bauges. A few options, all good. If you like climbing and want to treat yourself, I’d maybe stay in Challes les Eaux in the chateau then ride around via Montmélian then up and over the Col de Marocaz (hard, sustained, beautiful) down then across to Puygros, over the Col des Prés, down to Aillon le Jeune and just past the village go right and then through Aillon le Vieux and on to the road to Ecole, turn right, up and over Col de Frêne, turn left to Albertville, up to Beaufort. Might be a bit long, haven’t checked, can be shortened easily. Like by staying in Albertville instead.

3 Over the Cormet de Roselend, down to Bourg St Maurice. Great ride. On to Val d’Isère.

4 Over the col to Lanslebourg. Et voilà less time, more flexibility

Cheers

[basilic]

Good advice from Velotel. I'll second his recommendation of col de l'Arpettaz, not far from Albertville, above Ugine, one of the nicest climbs of the area. A few pics posted on another forum last November here
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=38397&start=4562

Also if you make it Susa, you have to climb colle delle Finestre. I have not done this yet, but it's definitely on the bucket list.

[maxn]

Finestre is at the very top of my list too. I'm hoping to do it this summer! Gotta ride it soon before the dirt section erodes into boulders and ruts again (they apparently graded it for the Giro)