Ultra torque BB tool

[phcollard]

So do I really have to fork $20 for the official Campagnolo hex tool or get the even more expensive Tacx version?

What do you guys use? I'm curious :)

[Bob Loblaw]

The Shimano tool fits fine.

BL

So do I really have to fork $20 for the official Campagnolo hex tool or get the even more expensive Tacx version?

What do you guys use? I'm curious :)

[zmudshark]

You talking about the 10mm allen bolt?

My Craftsman works just fine. For the cups I use the Park tool.

[J.Greene]

You can use a long 10mm. Mine does double duty as a plumb bob. it works quite well.

[ultraman6970]

The shimano tool for the outboard cups works just fine with campagnolo.

As for the 10 MM allen, I have a super long one with a big handle, Dont forget to put some grease or maybe teflon tape to the bolt, u dont want that to get lose or stuck there.

[phcollard]

The shimano tool for the outboard cups works just fine with campagnolo.

As for the 10 MM allen, I have a super long one with a big handle, Dont forget to put some grease or maybe teflon tape to the bolt, u dont want that to get lose or stuck there.

Ah! An excellent point! Thanks!

Yes I am talking about the 10mm allen. I'm going to look at the local hardware store then...

[choke]

I used a 10mm 3/8" drive socket with an extension. It fit with no problem. The nice thing about it is that you can easily hook it up to a torque wrench.

In case that's not clear, something like this (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00942679000P?blockNo=1&blockType=G1&prdNo=1&i_cntr=1329189842034) .

[oldpotatoe]

So do I really have to fork $20 for the official Campagnolo hex tool or get the even more expensive Tacx version?

What do you guys use? I'm curious :)

10mm with extension...at the local hardware store. It's just a long 10mm.

A nice extension and 10mm allen isn't that much less than $20 tho...AND like most Campagnolo tools, the Campagnolo one is a very nice, shop level, tool.

[AngryScientist]

buy a set.

every shop should have a set of decent hex (metric) sockets and a few extensions at least. you'll use them time and time again.

http://www.mrocenter.com/images/thumbs/0045855_300.jpeg

http://www.alltradetools.com/catalog/1890-1923-large/830134-3-pc-3-8-dr-extension-set.jpg

http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/6/7/9/5/4/8/webimg/110297645_o.jpg

[tele]

I used a 10mm 3/8" drive socket with an extension. It fit with no problem. The nice thing about it is that you can easily hook it up to a torque wrench.

In case that's not clear, something like this (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00942679000P?blockNo=1&blockType=G1&prdNo=1&i_cntr=1329189842034) .
this is exactly what i did when i ran Campy. very easy and lifetime warranty from Sears.

[ultraman6970]

Hmm i like that socket, probably fits tight and almost doesnt move that much the crank holes as a regular allen does.

Hmm the husky one is 1,49 at HD.

[phcollard]

buy a set.

http://www.mrocenter.com/images/thumbs/0045855_300.jpeg


Purchased. Thanks! :)

Oh and I just received my Athena UT alloy crankset - super beautiful btw - so I have more questions if you don't mind.

- The manual says to tighten the bolt to 40-60Nm otherwise I could get killed. Do I really need a torque wrench - more expenses - or can I live without?

- Also it says to apply blue Loctite all over the threads of the BB cups. I don't like the idea. Is it really necessary? I must have installed a hundred BB of all kinds but I never used Loctite!

[slowandsteady]

Purchased.
- Also it says to apply blue Loctite all over the threads of the BB cups. I don't like the idea. Is it really necessary? I must have installed a hundred BB of all kinds but I never used Loctite!

I was about to ask these exact same questions...I found in looking around the WWW that there seems to be two thoughts on installing the UT BB
1) 40-60NM Torque and blue locktite
2) 60-70NM Torque and NO locktite but grease the crap out of the BB threads

These seem absolutely contrary to each other I know but I think the official stance of Campy was first #1 and then they changed their instructions to #2 above. Maybe Old Potato can chime in here?

[oldpotatoe]

I was about to ask these exact same questions...I found in looking around the WWW that there seems to be two thoughts on installing the UT BB
1) 40-60NM Torque and blue locktite
2) 60-70NM Torque and NO locktite but grease the crap out of the BB threads

These seem absolutely contrary to each other I know but I think the official stance of Campy was first #1 and then they changed their instructions to #2 above. Maybe Old Potato can chime in here?


Grease inside the BB shell and inside the cups. 60 or so nm...NOT loctite, never loctite.

Best to have the BB shell faced as well, as with any BB.

Leave the clip in.

[phcollard]

Grease inside the BB shell and inside the cups...NOT loctite, never loctite.

Yes! I feel better :)

What's the torque that you recommend for the cups? And for the center bolt?

[fuzzalow]

42nM. Its imprinted on the bolt face itself.

[oldpotatoe]

Yes! I feel better :)

What's the torque that you recommend for the cups? And for the center bolt?

42-60 NM is what the book says.

[AngryScientist]

Yes! I feel better :)

What's the torque that you recommend for the cups? And for the center bolt?

don't overthink it. tight for the cups, and damned tight for the center bolt.

granted, i've got a lot of experience with mechanical components, but i've never used a torque wrench on my cranksets, and i've got thousands of trouble free miles on UT stuff.

[dave thompson]

don't overthink it. tight for the cups, and damned tight for the center bolt.

granted, i've got a lot of experience with mechanical components, but i've never used a torque wrench on my cranksets, and i've got thousands of trouble free miles on UT stuff.
What's tight? What's damned tight? Until someone has experience with those two terms in relation to what they're tightening, a torque wrench is handy, damned handy. :)

I've got 12 years and maybe 60 bike builds under my belt, not much perhaps by professional standards, but I still use my torque wrenches.

[AngryScientist]

What's tight? What's damned tight? Until someone has experience with those two terms in relation to what they're tightening, a torque wrench is handy, damned handy. :)

I've got 12 years and maybe 60 bike builds under my belt, not much perhaps by professional standards, but I still use my torque wrenches.


sure, i agree, it's a good idea to have a torque wrench, but i still dont think it's absolutely necessary; hell, the tool most people use to install BB cups isnt even torque wrench friendly:

http://s7ondemand1.scene7.com/is/image/roadrunnersports/NYTTL7246?wid=438&hei=432&fmt=jpeg&qlt=75,0&op_sharpen=0&resMode=bicub&op_usm=1.1,1.0,5,0&iccEmbed=0

[dave thompson]

My bottom bracket tool; fits on my torque wrench and doesn't slip.

Y'all can do it your way but I was trained as an aircraft mechanic. Millions of dollars worth of pieces, containing people, flying through the air gave me an appreciation for some degree of precision. Besides, as I get older the 'click' in my elbow gets out of calibration quiciker than the torque wrenches.

[phcollard]

Thanks guys!

I just ordered a torque wrench. I've got the excuse that a tool is ALWAYS a good investment :beer:

[phcollard]

My bottom bracket tool; fits on my torque wrench and doesn't slip.

That's the one I have too Dave.

[AngryScientist]

My bottom bracket tool; fits on my torque wrench and doesn't slip.


:) i've actually got that one too.

i do agree that a torque wrench is the prudent choice.

[ultraman6970]

Agree, at least in the BB the torque wrench is not useful. The external cups wont go any further if you crank them too much. The same with the center bolt.

Doubt i'll buy a torque wrench because with carbon and aluminum now I'm using carbon paste, with that thing is tight just enough so the parts dont move and will stay there forever.

[oldpotatoe]

Agree, at least in the BB the torque wrench is not useful. The external cups wont go any further if you crank them too much. The same with the center bolt.

Doubt i'll buy a torque wrench because with carbon and aluminum now I'm using carbon paste, with that thing is tight just enough so the parts dont move and will stay there forever.

Listen for the crack and then off a quarter turn. 5nm sure ain't much, easy to kill carbon, even with paste.