Spinner Bike Help Needed

[erector]

So I got a free spin bike, a legit one, used - old - rusted - missing a non-drive-side crank arm AND comes with a cracked square tapered bottom bracket, lovely. I'll also say for the record (look to #2) I am an idiot.

Ok 3 major problems:
1 - The Square taper (where you WOULD screw in the missing crank arm) is broken - imagine chipping off a diagonal piece from the end
2 - I tried to remove the crank via the drive side, forgot about having to remove the center bolt first, and broke a park tool crank puller in the process. The bit you hand screw into the rusted crank, is now broken and suck in so that I can't squeeze a 1/4" bit around the nut to remove the bolt...
3 - I also tried to take the CUP of the bottom bracket off, from the exposed BB side, and it's pretty rusted solid, I think I may have stripped the splines a bit...

Ok so these spinner bikes are a TON of money, I got this one for free. I REALLY want to keep it and use it, but I need to figure out how to fix these problems.

Option1: a crank arm COULD be installed on the chipped square taper, but are there concerns I should be worried about? will it not fit flush? could it fall off w/force? could the not spin properly? I'd prefer not to try gorilla clue to make amends for the loss of the tapered bit, as I assume the BB will need to be replaced at some time.

Option2: drill the entire BB (get someone to drill) and replace BB, and crank entirely

Thoughts? any recommendations?

[Peter P.]

First, you have to remove the drive side crankarm, otherwise removing the non-drive side BB cup will get you no progress.

Hacksaw, die grinder, Dremel Tool, whatever-it's time to sacrifice the drive side crank to remove it since I understand part of the extractor tool is stuck inside.

After that, install the BB removal tool on the drive side and clamp it in place using the drive side BB axle bolt and some washers. You may have to purchase a longer bolt, which you can get at a hardware store. You want to mount this tightly to the cup so you can wrench on it with impunity. Leave the bolt just a tad loose so the cup can begin to unthread.

Once the fixed cup is loose, leave the BB in the shell. You're gonna use the same procedure on the slightly munged up non-drive cup. Only after the non-drive side is free should you remove the drive side.

If neither side will free up, pour a concoction that frees up seized bolts, like PB Blaster, down the seat tube. You want a lot in there; maybe 0.5-1 cup. Wrench on the cups for 5 minutes or so then walk away until the next day. Try again. It may take a week.

If the drive side BB comes off easy after removing the crankarm, then just spray the PB Blaster through the shell at the seized, non-drive side cup. Let sit for 10 minutes, then wrench away.

Worst case scenario, if the BB is a typical cup and cone style, you can cut off the lockring with a Dremel Tool then just insert the pin tool into the cup. Work your wrench BOTH directions, and never apply so much for that you bend the pins. Better to keep spraying PB Blaster onto the threads from both sides and being patient. It took me 4 days to remove a stuck seatpost recently, but it worked.

[erector]

Hello Peter!

Thanks for the advice, VERY thorough and concrete. I will keep you posted with progress.

[christian]

You should figure out whether spin bikes are BSC or ITA, too. I would guess, with 99.9999996% percent certainty that they are BSC, but...

[erector]

Yes, Luckily (?) enough it is not Italian threading, and the square taper fits diamond-like into the crank arm... if I could just get it all off. I will be taking Peter's advice this upcoming week, and we'll see what happens.