staggerwing
01-10-2012, 09:58 AM
Going to toss this out there, in the hope that it may short circuit the learning curve for some other sap. Probably too much info, and I certainly look the fool, but a lesson harmlessly learned. A little searching did not find a full run down in the more usual locations.
I've installed multiple Shimano bar end and DT shifters, as well as, levers from both Campy and Shimano, and have never had much difficulty, but these Campy 10-speed bar ends caused some head scratching.
FWIW, I'm talking about this particular model:
http://www.basicbikes.co.nz/images/products/33.1188.png
It was a clean used frame, with new front crankset, fresh KMC 10-speed chain, lightly used 13-29 cassette, used, medium cage, Centaur 10s RD, fresh cable set, and used bar end shifters.
Set initial high and low limits before cable and chain install. Added chain, verified limits, and while hand pressured, checked for general function and arm angle on largest cog. Installed cable, cycled through the range a couple of times, retightened, and began to fine tune. The three highest cogs were fine, the middle range was crap, and the three largest were more or less OK, although noisier than expected. Cycled up and down, played and played with tension, even took it on a short ride, thinking something just had to wear in a touch. WRONG. High and low OK, but garbage in between with significant ghost shifting. Towards the end of the ride, the chain was jumping all over the place.
Back on the stand, I found a couple of tight links, which I thought might be the issue. In retrospect, I probably generated those tight links by pinching the chain on the short ride. Pulling the chain while leaving the cable attached clearly indicated there was an issue. None of the the middle positions lined up cogs on the cassette.
Finally, I remembered that Campy bar-ends can be disassembled for repair, or changing the index ring between 10 and 9 speed. Opening them up, flash bulbs went off. First, close examination of the index ring reveals a non-uniform space between detents. Second, there are three G-springs which ride against those detents, which means the pattern is replicated in triplicate around the circumference of the index wheel. IMO, slick, very very slick. However, the index ring can fit on the male boss one of two ways, and with the 3 G-springs, only one direction can be correct. To further complicate matters, there are two different ways the assembled lever can fit into the mounting pods; either lever aligned parallel to the pod, or at a right angle.
The first line drawing from Campy got me part way there, indicating the arrow in the index ring should point to the lever on reassembly.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-rostU5fV64A/TwuoISUrXUI/AAAAAAAADUM/2yVmM-L7p0w/s640/CampyBarEnd.jpg
Trial and error worked for getting the lever into the pod, but the following drawing helps. Basically, the assembled lever should be installed into the body in the highest gear (ie no cable tension) position. In a typical road bar install like mine, the lever is mounting pointing to the floor, at a right angle to the drops.
This time, I hooked the cable up first, leaving the chain off, and every shift lined up like it should.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3fk9yRVF17c/TwuoDXsi9hI/AAAAAAAADUI/gbtbN1YC0KA/s800/Campy_Shifter_Copy.jpg
PS Kuddos to Campy for making a rebuildable bar end shifter.
I've installed multiple Shimano bar end and DT shifters, as well as, levers from both Campy and Shimano, and have never had much difficulty, but these Campy 10-speed bar ends caused some head scratching.
FWIW, I'm talking about this particular model:
http://www.basicbikes.co.nz/images/products/33.1188.png
It was a clean used frame, with new front crankset, fresh KMC 10-speed chain, lightly used 13-29 cassette, used, medium cage, Centaur 10s RD, fresh cable set, and used bar end shifters.
Set initial high and low limits before cable and chain install. Added chain, verified limits, and while hand pressured, checked for general function and arm angle on largest cog. Installed cable, cycled through the range a couple of times, retightened, and began to fine tune. The three highest cogs were fine, the middle range was crap, and the three largest were more or less OK, although noisier than expected. Cycled up and down, played and played with tension, even took it on a short ride, thinking something just had to wear in a touch. WRONG. High and low OK, but garbage in between with significant ghost shifting. Towards the end of the ride, the chain was jumping all over the place.
Back on the stand, I found a couple of tight links, which I thought might be the issue. In retrospect, I probably generated those tight links by pinching the chain on the short ride. Pulling the chain while leaving the cable attached clearly indicated there was an issue. None of the the middle positions lined up cogs on the cassette.
Finally, I remembered that Campy bar-ends can be disassembled for repair, or changing the index ring between 10 and 9 speed. Opening them up, flash bulbs went off. First, close examination of the index ring reveals a non-uniform space between detents. Second, there are three G-springs which ride against those detents, which means the pattern is replicated in triplicate around the circumference of the index wheel. IMO, slick, very very slick. However, the index ring can fit on the male boss one of two ways, and with the 3 G-springs, only one direction can be correct. To further complicate matters, there are two different ways the assembled lever can fit into the mounting pods; either lever aligned parallel to the pod, or at a right angle.
The first line drawing from Campy got me part way there, indicating the arrow in the index ring should point to the lever on reassembly.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-rostU5fV64A/TwuoISUrXUI/AAAAAAAADUM/2yVmM-L7p0w/s640/CampyBarEnd.jpg
Trial and error worked for getting the lever into the pod, but the following drawing helps. Basically, the assembled lever should be installed into the body in the highest gear (ie no cable tension) position. In a typical road bar install like mine, the lever is mounting pointing to the floor, at a right angle to the drops.
This time, I hooked the cable up first, leaving the chain off, and every shift lined up like it should.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3fk9yRVF17c/TwuoDXsi9hI/AAAAAAAADUI/gbtbN1YC0KA/s800/Campy_Shifter_Copy.jpg
PS Kuddos to Campy for making a rebuildable bar end shifter.