Wood frame

[54ny77]

Saw this on ww site. Darned well looks like art, I'd hang this on the wall! Amazing craftsmanship. If you look at the thread, the owner is putting wooden rims on there too.

http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/3/1/6/3/4/2/webimg/533555735_o.jpg

http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/3/1/6/3/4/2/webimg/533555730_o.jpg

http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=95003&start=60

[jimcav]

I followed your thread on weight weenies too. as an amateur wood worker I am pretty amazed by both the beauty and the fact it functions as a true bike, not just art.
Looking forward to hearing more in terms of ride report. the wheels are also something else--i don't have the engineering background to understand the hookless design, but assume at some point most wheels were like that and it all works.
i've worked with padouk, in fact my entertainment center has it (along with wenge and canary wood), but i have never figured out how to finish it where it retains the red/orange hue--mine always turns deep brown.

really amazing work
jim

[54ny77]

imcav: sorry, it ain't mine. i just posted the link.

i am, however, in the middle of an incredibly annoying 30+ day staining/sanding/varnishing process for some bathroom cabinetry, and if I could do it all over again....i'd hire someone else to do it! :banana:

[jimcav]

imcav: sorry, it ain't mine. i just posted the link.

i blame the vicodin, i did not read the post that closely. anyway, sanding always sort of stinks unless you have loads of time and good music. still, nothing like accomplishing something yourself.

jim

[Jaq]

Wheelbuilder has some Italian-made wooden rims; two are tubular, but one is of the hookless variety. They say that as long as the tires are carefully mounted and inflated to the right pressure, the rims do well.

Cerchio Ghisallo wood rims. (http://www.wheelbuilder.com/store/cerchio-ghisallo-wood-rims.html)

I'd love to try a set of the tubulars. They'd certainly turn heads at a club ride.

[54ny77]

the thing that's driving me absolutely bonkers is dust getting on the surface during satin urethane clearcoat. got any tips?

when applying it, i've literally got cabinetry pieces in the living room and kitchen, the most dust-free areas in the house. yet still get little surface bumps. am using shop vac, lightly damp cloth, etc. to clean surface beforehand.

the stain came out awesome, and now i sort of regret not just going with beeswax as protective finish. but it's for bathroom, which means high humidity, moisture, etc., and i figured marine urethane satin would be better (i have a piece in there with that finish already for the past year and it's held up perfect).

i blame the vicodin, i did not read the post that closely. anyway, sanding always sort of stinks unless you have loads of time and good music. still, nothing like accomplishing something yourself.

jim

[nighthawk]

There's this guy too.. he's building in my neighborhood. I think I prefer the looks of the wood/stainless combo.. but the craftsmanship of the frame you posted looks pretty spectacular. I appreciate it, but I'll always prefer to have steel underneath me.

[54ny77]

wow what brand is that?

looks like a ticonderoga pencil.

There's this guy too.. he's building in my neighborhood. I think I prefer the looks of the wood/stainless combo.. but the craftsmanship of the frame you posted looks pretty spectacular. I appreciate it, but I'll always prefer to have steel underneath me.

[nighthawk]

wow what brand is that?

looks like a ticonderoga pencil.

Ha... good 'ol #2. The builder is "Sylvan".

[guyintense]

I saw the Renovo frame up close and personal at the San Diego bike show and they are really nicely done. I was pressed for time or I would have taken the owners up on their offer of a test ride. As for Padauk getting dark, just give it time.

[buldogge]

Talked to them for awhile at NAHBS in Austin...pretty cool stuff. Did they ever get to the point of actually selling frames???

-Mark in St. Louis

Ha... good 'ol #2. The builder is "Sylvan".

[buldogge]

Use real marine varnish not urethane...it really only comes in gloss...rub it out to desired sheen when done, finish with butcher's wax. I like Petit, Captain's Z Spar, FWIW.

Good luck.

-Mark in St. Louis

the thing that's driving me absolutely bonkers is dust getting on the surface during satin urethane clearcoat. got any tips?

when applying it, i've literally got cabinetry pieces in the living room and kitchen, the most dust-free areas in the house. yet still get little surface bumps. am using shop vac, lightly damp cloth, etc. to clean surface beforehand.

the stain came out awesome, and now i sort of regret not just going with beeswax as protective finish. but it's for bathroom, which means high humidity, moisture, etc., and i figured marine urethane satin would be better (i have a piece in there with that finish already for the past year and it's held up perfect).

[54ny77]

sorry i meant minwax helmsman spar urethane.

Use real marine varnish not urethane...it really only comes in gloss...rub it out to desired sheen when done, finish with butcher's wax. I like Petit, Captain's Z Spar, FWIW.

Good luck.

-Mark in St. Louis

[buldogge]

The minwax is urethane/plastic...look at marine supply stores (West Marine or Jamestown for mailorder) for actual varnish.

-Mark

sorry i meant minwax helmsman spar urethane.

[oliver1850]

the thing that's driving me absolutely bonkers is dust getting on the surface during satin urethane clearcoat. got any tips?

when applying it, i've literally got cabinetry pieces in the living room and kitchen, the most dust-free areas in the house. yet still get little surface bumps. am using shop vac, lightly damp cloth, etc. to clean surface beforehand.

the stain came out awesome, and now i sort of regret not just going with beeswax as protective finish. but it's for bathroom, which means high humidity, moisture, etc., and i figured marine urethane satin would be better (i have a piece in there with that finish already for the past year and it's held up perfect).

Are you using a tack cloth?

[54ny77]

no, was using small microfiber cloth that somehow is very static clingy and picks up a lot of stuff. i'm wondering if one of the brushes had fine granules in it due to the way(and location) i had it stored. i bought a new brush the other day and did another cabinet last night and the difference was night & day. Are you using a tack cloth?

[buldogge]

Tack with mineral spirits...use varnish thinned 20% with naptha...apply with a foam brush. Thin layers, many layers.

The beadboard ceiling on my front porch has 7 layers for example.

-Mark

no, was using small microfiber cloth that somehow is very static clingy and picks up a lot of stuff. i'm wondering if one of the brushes had fine granules in it due to the way(and location) i had it stored. i bought a new brush the other day and did another cabinet last night and the difference was night & day.

[oliver1850]

If you have access to compressed air, that would help get the particles out of cracks and corners before wiping the piece down.

[54ny77]

i have compressor, but if i bring any more equipment and materials into the house my wife will kick me out. cracks and corners are no problem, it's the flat surfaces that are the issue.

i've not thought of rubbing it out w/steel wool. would that smooth the finish? if so, any technique suggestions would be appreciated.

(yes i can google that, but it's always great to have 1sthand knowledge from someone here.)

If you have access to compressed air, that would help get the particles out of cracks and corners before wiping the piece down.

[buldogge]

Not steel wool...knock it down with the 3M or Norton synthetic stuff, comes in rectangular sheets, and then wetsand finer and finer (800 or 1000 grit maybe) until you get the sheen you want, finish with wax.

-Mark

i have compressor, but if i bring any more equipment and materials into the house my wife will kick me out. cracks and corners are no problem, it's the flat surfaces that are the issue.

i've not thought of rubbing it out w/steel wool. would that smooth the finish? if so, any technique suggestions would be appreciated.

(yes i can google that, but it's always great to have 1sthand knowledge from someone here.)

[54ny77]

will do, thanks!

i figured i'd let the finish dry a week to cure before tackling it with wet sanding.

[pavel]

No one seems to have asked the most important question yet, and that is "Why?"

[Louis]

No one seems to have asked the most important question yet, and that is "Why?"

To be different. Who really needs a bamboo bike?

[Buzz]

Been done before circa 1897

http://www.oldspokeshome.com/“old-hickory”-tonk-manufacturing-co-chicago-ill-1897

[WickedWheels]

Nothing says "durable" like wood rims. W-T-F?

Tomorrow I'm going to start on a new project... an origami rear derailleur made of 20lb weight copy paper. I'm planning on using yarn for shift cables. If this works you could have limitless color options to express your individuality!

[WickedWheels]

BTW, acronyms are now getting "starred" out? W-T-F is too risque? OMG!

[akelman]

an origami rear derailleur made of 20lb weight copy paper. I'm planning on using yarn for shift cables.

Let me know if you need investors.

[54ny77]

buldogge--thanks a ton. really, your advice helped a tremendous amount. i've never taken on something like this before and was very nervous, so i practiced first on the backside of one cabinet door just in case things got ugly. turns out it worked just fine.

i used 600 grit wet sand, again and again, followed by prodigious amounts of rubbing with #0000 steel wool and butcher block oil in the direction of grain.

all surface dust imperfections are off as well as brush stroke grooves (i had 3 coats of urethane and probably cut through at least 1 or 2, but that's ok). nice & smooth & uniform.

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z113/jpmz06/Greenwich/IMG_3947-1.jpg

oh and by the way MY HANDS AND SHOULDERS R KILLING ME!!!!

1 door down, 4 more to go.... :crap: :bike:

Not steel wool...knock it down with the 3M or Norton synthetic stuff, comes in rectangular sheets, and then wetsand finer and finer (800 or 1000 grit maybe) until you get the sheen you want, finish with wax.

-Mark

[buldogge]

NP...Glad it worked out.

-Mark in St. Louis

[tiretrax]

I spoke with the Sylvan folks at NAHBS, too. The said its very stiff and compliant and won't fatigue. I saw an Audi branded Renovo when riding past an Audi event. Those are beautiful, too.

I'd consider a bamboo bike that I built myself (although it would be cool to build a steel bike with a great builder's tutelage, too). While the Calfees are beautiful, they are too pricey. I hear they ride like a cloud.

[russ46]

I've had very good results using Minwax wipe-on urethane using cheese cloth to apply. Very fast application, especially if the surface is complicated. Dries faster with no brush strokes and few runs. Only downside is the coats are thinner so 3 or 4 are required.

[comptechgsr]

Looks cool...but I dunno how soft it would be..

i had the chance to ride a calfee bamboo bike, and it was the most comfortable (but not dangerously soft) "road" bike ever.