Gravel/Dirt bike Question:

[buldogge]

Hey Guys... Those of you that have gravel/dirt bikes, do you prefer carbon or alloy components?

I'm considering switching the Chorus 11 RD, FD, and possibly crankset on my Meech ( http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=91063 ) for silver or black Athena 11.

Thoughts???

TIA
-Mark in St. Louis

[jpw]

Hey Guys... Those of you that have gravel/dirt bikes, do you prefer carbon or alloy components?

I'm considering switching the Chorus 11 RD, FD, and possibly crankset on my Meech ( http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=91063 ) for silver or black Athena 11.

Thoughts???

.

TIA
-Mark in St. Louis

Alloy cranks and pedals, handlebars and stem - you're gonna hit something solid eventually.

[gearguywb]

I use what I have available. Plan on riding...not crashing. Stuff does happen, however. Don't sweat it, just ride it.

[verticaldoug]

Hey Guys... Those of you that have gravel/dirt bikes, do you prefer carbon or alloy components?

I'm considering switching the Chorus 11 RD, FD, and possibly crankset on my Meech ( http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=91063 ) for silver or black Athena 11.

Thoughts???

TIA
-Mark in St. Louis

I only think about my tire selection. Everything else isn't suppose to touch the gravel.

[DRZRM]

I remember thinking how lovely that bike was when it was posted. Alloy parts would be perfect, though it's not really "necessary.". What a looker!

[Steve in SLO]

I am with those who say go with whatever you'd like. My heavily used Moots Psychlo-X has Record 10. In addition to gravel/dirt roads, I ride it on singletrack and milder rock gardens. 4 seasons of hard riding and several crashes later everything has held up beautifully.

[buldogge]

Hey Guys...Thanks for the replies.

I'm not worried, per se, the CF components seem to hold up fine (stem/bars are alloy BTW). It was more of a cost/benefit question.

The dérailleurs are 1/2 the price and only weigh <2 oz. more.

The crankset does save ~1/2# though. Also, I like the feel (real or imagined) of the Campy carbon cranks.

Also, I'm switching from Challenge Grifo XSs (which ran pretty wide on A23s) to Kenda Small Block Eights...see how that goes.

TA
-Mark

[buldogge]

BTW...Let's assume I was gonna swap out the RDs...aesthetic question...

Black or silver Athena alloy???

-Mark

[fourflys]

My Vaya has SRAM Apex and works as well for that bike as my Chorus 10sp did on my other cross bike...

re: carbon, the only thing I might be leery of on a gravel bike is carbon cranks as I know what my pedals look like and I'd hate to bash up the end of a carbon crank...

[mike p]

Al would be the obvious choice, but I think the only component that really makes a difference in this case is wheels. For a dirt road bike I'd only use Al wheels!

Mike

[buldogge]

Hey... The wheels are 32H Velocity A23s laced to silver Chorus hubs, Revs all around, except Comps rear DS.

-Mark

Al would be the obvious choice, but I think the only component that really makes a difference in this case is wheels. For a dirt road bike I'd only use Al wheels!

Mike

[mike p]

Good choice.

Mike

[AngryScientist]

for me, a big choice on a bike like this would be: road pedals or mtb pedals. obvious pros and cons of each, and the use of the bike will really dictate i think, but that would be a tough one for me personally to answer on a bike like this.

[buldogge]

I use black Shimano A530s on this one...so I can run to the park with my son in Vans if I want to.

-Mark

for me, a big choice on a bike like this would be: road pedals or mtb pedals. obvious pros and cons of each, and the use of the bike will really dictate i think, but that would be a tough one for me personally to answer on a bike like this.

[palincss]

for me, a big choice on a bike like this would be: road pedals or mtb pedals. obvious pros and cons of each, and the use of the bike will really dictate i think, but that would be a tough one for me personally to answer on a bike like this.

What would the advantages of "road" pedals be for such a bike?

I'd be willing to argue "road" pedals have virtually no advantages to make up for their many disadvantages even for exclusive use on pavement (I used them for several years before I switched the fleet to SPD) but once you add gravel roads into the mix for me there's no contest whatsoever. There will be dismounts, of necessity more than on pavement (steep grades, limited traction and road surface damage will see to that!) and that means duck-walking with fragile, slippery, easily damaged cleats on highly abrasive gravel surfaces on easily damaged cleats.

Doesn't seem like a tough choice to me!

[AngryScientist]

What would the advantages of "road" pedals be for such a bike?


the major advantage for me would be the ability to use my several pairs of uber comfortable road shoes, and not need a different pair of mtb shoes for a different pedal system.

other than that, i agree that if you're riding on anything other than pavement, mtb pedal systems are the way to go.

i do respectfully disagree however that road pedal systems offer no advantages over mtb pedal systems on the road, but that's not really important to this discussion. :beer:

[buldogge]

I run SPD (M) on all my bikes FWIW. Usually A520s, A530s, or M520/40s.

-Mark

[benitosan1972]

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/397575_10150473729663795_508408794_8632343_1648225 464_n.jpg

though i wouldn't recommend doing it very often, carbon road parts can actually take quite the abuse. i'm running: carbon frame/fork, bars/stem/post, cranks, wheels, road slicks, and SPD-SL pedals here (taken on a secret trail somewhere out between Mt Hamilton & Sierra Road)... I forgot my CX bike yesterday, lol, but still rode out there anyways. but yes, i agree with the consensus that if you are going off-road, you should be running mostly alloy equipment for the eventual encounter with rocks, potholes, and crashing into trees! :no:

[wooly]

benitosan - that looks like a fun ride.

OP - what a great looking bike. I'm going through the same thought process on a new "all-road" build, although I need lower gearing that what campy can provide without going too frankenstein. Regarding your rear derailleur question, I'd keep the chorus but if you were going with Athena, I'd get silver. That bike is classic and silver just seems right for it.

[buldogge]

Thanx...I ordered a silver Athena RD this morning...but I ordered a "black" (cage still silver) FD to balance the CF crank and black Paul's brakes.

I think the silver Athena crankset would look nice...but a 1/2# is a 1/2# and I do like the feel of the CF cranks (real or imagined)!

Lastly, I'm using this as an excuse to put together the last bits of another Chorus 11s gruppo...for whatever this year's project becomes...???

-Mark

benitosan - that looks like a fun ride.

OP - what a great looking bike. I'm going through the same thought process on a new "all-road" build, although I need lower gearing that what campy can provide without going too frankenstein. Regarding your rear derailleur question, I'd keep the chorus but if you were going with Athena, I'd get silver. That bike is classic and silver just seems right for it.

[John M]

Cost/benefit always favors the lower priced components. It works well these days and the incremental increase in performance for higher cost is small. Apex/105/Veloce, etc... are better values. That said I don't have anything lower than Centaur, so it goes to show that value isn't the only factor.

+1 for SPD type pedals on all my bikes (I no longer road race).

[GRAVELBIKE]

The only carbon on my gravel bikes (which are all of them, really) are the brake levers and headset spacers. Even then, I prefer alloy levers because the cost of replacement is less.

If you ride dirt, gravel, etc, you will eventually strike a pedal, crank arm, derailleur, lever, etc. The results can range from cosmetic to catastrophic, so it's always best to consider the, "what if..." scenarios.

Of course, even alloy components aren't immune from mishaps:

http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4024/4325922077_0b604b36eb.jpg

A large baby-head rock was flicked up and into the rear mech, which fubar'd the derailleur, hanger, and a couple of spokes. Made for a long walk back to the trail head.

[Gummee]

The only carbon on my gravel bikes (which are all of them, really) are the brake levers and headset spacers. Even then, I prefer alloy levers because the cost of replacement is less.

If you ride dirt, gravel, etc, you will eventually strike a pedal, crank arm, derailleur, lever, etc. The results can range from cosmetic to catastrophic, so it's always best to consider the, "what if..." scenarios.

Of course, even alloy components aren't immune from mishaps:

http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4024/4325922077_0b604b36eb.jpg

A large baby-head rock was flicked up and into the rear mech, which fubar'd the derailleur, hanger, and a couple of spokes. Made for a long walk back to the trail head.
Ugh. That looks nasty.

Just reinforces the mantra: if you go off-road, ya gotta pay to play.

Maint.
Fixing stuff/breaking stuff
etc.

M

[fourflys]

. I'm going through the same thought process on a new "all-road" build, although I need lower gearing that what campy can provide without going too frankenstein. .

the current SRAM Rival RD is the WIFLI tech now and can accommodate a mtn cassette with a 32 on it... of course Apex can do it also...

I've heard Ultegra can accommodate the same, but have no experience with it...

[GRAVELBIKE]

My current project definitely qualities as frankenstein:

Centaur 10spd shifters
Campy front derailleur
daVinci/SRAM rear derailleur

Shimano 4550 cranks (34/46)
KMC chain
Shimano 11-32, 34, or 36t cassette (9spd)

[witcombusa]

46-34 double w/12-34 cassette is PERFECT for CO riding.
Road, dirt, whatever...