Suits (OT)

[coylifut]

a couple of threads lately have gone off on a tayloring tangent which has got me thinking. I wear a suit 5 days a week. The Missus wont let me walk out of the house without being well taylored and requires that I buy expensive suits bearing all the usual overpriced labels. However, I've been largely dissapointed with the general quality and the durability of these garments :crap: . Well, it's time to buy a few more and I'm intriqued by the idea of having suits custom taylored. For those of you that go this route, do you go to Hong Kong and have it done, or does Hong Kong come to you? Are there any US based Taylors worth considering? Do these suits cost more, less or the same as say Zegna, Vestimenta.....? Are the fabrics, styles and cut inline with current trends?

Help

:beer:

[Ozz]

Go to Nordstrom...get some Hickey Freeman's or Oxxford made to measure. Get an extra set of pants to go with them...they will last forever, or at least longer than the designer italian cr*p.

They will always be in style.

[FunkyPorcini]

Thailand

[dirtdigger88]

man- I am glad I can wear shorts and work boots to work- see maybe dirt aint so dumb after all :p

Jasons

[weisan]

man- I am glad I can wear shorts and work boots to work- see maybe dirt aint so dumb after all :p

Jasons

Dirt-pal, you should consult with S_A_N_D_Y_P_A_L first, as far as I know for him, clothing is optional.

[bulliedawg]

a couple of threads lately have gone off on a tayloring tangent which has got me thinking. I wear a suit 5 days a week. The Missus wont let me walk out of the house without being well taylored and requires that I buy expensive suits bearing all the usual overpriced labels.

Help

:beer:

I'm sorry.

[Fixed]

custom suit and custom bike it's all about fit.Cheers

[William]

Check out the "Chinatown" (and surrounding area) section of Portland. I seem to remember that there where quite a few taylors around the made nice suits.

William

[Ken Robb]

If you go to a good men's store where the staff really knows what they are doing as far as fitting a suit you should get good-looking and long-wearing garments.

I used to be in that business and the Hickey-Freeman and Oxxford lines are better-made than most "custom" suits. H. Freeman is another good line. If you have been buying DKNY and the like you have been getting mediocre stuff w/ hot labels.

One of my very favorite suits is Japanese. I bought it from a great shop that sold other lines that I was familiar with for years and they were 100% correct when they touted this one to me. The shops that have done the best for me have had their own tailors on the premises though that isn't absolutely necessary.

[slowgoing]

The Missus wont let me walk out of the house without being well taylored and requires that I buy expensive suits bearing all the usual overpriced labels.

Talk about high maintenance, that gives me the chills.

[dsimon]

the only suit i have ever owned the army gave me :beer: yeah wool and polyester blend :D :confused:

[JohnS]

Make sure that his last name is really "Taylor" if you want it tailormade! :banana:

[saab2000]

I bought a suit for my job interview. I wore it 3 times. I hope to wear it once more in my lifetime,when I get interviewed for my next job, which hopefully will be my last in the airline business. I wear a uniform to work so what I have to say does not count.

But my brother wears suits. He is a big fan of Hickey Freeman. Yes, they are spendy. But he also says that they are good quality. Quality shows and if Mrs. Coylifut thinks it is the minimum you can do to wear a nice suit you have a nice wife indeed. Do it for her if nobody else.

Nordstrom is usually a good place for suits. I got mine there.

[JohnS]

Suits are for weddings and funerals, both sad occasions! :D

[coylifut]

Talk about high maintenance, that gives me the chills.

actually, my wife is likely the most low maintenance spouse one could ever hope for. However, she feels most men look dumpy and likes me to look nice in the work place.

I knew you guys would make fun of me. Go a head, pile on.

[Climb01742]

man, do i feel lucky. work attire june to aug, shorts and t-shirts. rest of year, jeans and t-shirt. i don't own a suit or tie or even a sport coat. coy, i feel for you.

[cdmc]

In the words of a former co-worker "Think yiddish, dress british." Seriously, you should define what you mean by nice suits, one man's nice suit is another's junk. Over the years I have had very poor luck with italian made suits and mass market brand suits. The least expensive suit that I have found to look good and be durable are the Nordstrom Brand house suits which are US made. I also have had very good luck with Joseph Aboods and Talio Umo. As others have suggested, Hickey-Freeman is a topnotch quality suit and will last forever. Basically, look for US and British Made suites.

If you want the best, go to Savielle Row in London, there is no better. Second best are the British trained guys in Hong Kong, but they are nearly as expensive.

[Bill Bove]

Brooks Brothers. Nothing else. A finer group of true gentleman you cannot find.

[cookieguy]

With the US getting fatter and fatter finding proper dress clothing for a small slender guy is getting to be a pain. I go into Nordstroms, Bloomingdales etc looking for a 36 regular...eeek....sorry sir the smallest size we carry any more is a 38.....your size is no longer made....

10 years ago it wasn't easy but it's getting absurd.

Any ideas?

[Fixed]

Man I know there is something wrong with me, but I don't even have a pair of long paints.I ve cut them all off at the calf. I don't think there is anything wrong in dressing in style you big cats have to dress that way and that's cool.Cheers

[RichMc]

I second CDMC's recommendation if you can travel that far. If not then there may be closer custom tailors. Perhaps Seattle or San Francisco. You have to look for them. A lot of your cost is in the quality of the cloth. When I used to wear suits I bought some high end Italian stuff (hmmm, sounds familiar all of a sudden) and some high end German (Hugo Boss). The Italian fine wool has no peer. It's like silk. I'm glad I still have those for the once a year occassion Gloria wants to go to. I'm waiting for the style to change. Can't stand the short, high set lapels. Like someone else said, "Good style is always fashionable but fashion can easily go out of style" - or something like that?? Now it's shorts and golf shirts to work. Sure saves on the dry cleaning bills.

[Kevin]

Coy,

I do the custom suit routine. The taylor comes to the office with fabric swatches that run the price spectrum from midly obscene to outright obscene. He does all the measurements in my office, behind closed doors at the request of the staff. The quality is comparable to Canali. He also handles the custom shirts and matching ties. He "codes" the ties, suits and shirts so that all I have to do is match the numbers to know what matches. Living in the suburbs of NYC it was relatively easy to find a custom tailor that would come to the office. If you are able to find one, it makes life very easy. No need to deal with salespeople or finding the time to go to the store.

Kevin

[chrisroph]

If you guys could see coy, you would know why it is necessary for him to wear nice clothes; it makes up for other visual deficiencies. Now mrs. coy is another story entirely.....

[Louis]

Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy

[PBWrench]

I second the vote for Brooks Brothers, and try Jos. A. Banks as well.

[andy mac]

Paul Smith outta the UK available here in good stores.

Stylish compared with most of the US stuff - you won't look like a 80 yo congressman and/or funeral parlor director.

[97CSI]

Back in my 'suit & tie' days Brooks Brothers always did a great job for me. Tailored the 'off-the-shelf' or bespoke stuff as needed. Used to be excellent materials and construction. But, as old as those tailors were none may still be alive. :confused:

[davids]

Coy,

You've got mail.

cdmc's got it right - Italian/mass market is junk and Joseph Aboud is the most stylin' man in Boston. And my Jewish tailor is Chinese and from Hong Kong... There's nothing like a custom suit, except maybe a custom bike. :beer:

[e-RICHIE]

Paul Smith outta the UK available here in good stores.

Stylish compared with most of the US stuff - you won't look like a 80 yo congressman and/or funeral parlor director.


did you know...
paul smith was a cat 1 racer in great britain
before he cut his first suit...
e-RICHIE©™®

[Fixed]

did you know...
paul smith was a cat 1 racer in great britain
before he cut his first suit...
e-RICHIE©™®
now that's cool this is a bike forum. :beer: Cheers

[ajhoop]

I've had the best luck with Aboud suits that I get at Nordstrom. If you don't mind waiting for their semi-annual sales I think you can get a much nicer suit for about the same price as my lower quality ones from Brooks Brothers. I also need help matching shirts and ties and the service at Nordstrom in this regard is excellent.

[e-RICHIE]

i wouldn't wear a striped tie unless
the stripes descended from the heart.
e-RICHIE©™®

[flydhest]

With the US getting fatter and fatter finding proper dress clothing for a small slender guy is getting to be a pain. I go into Nordstroms, Bloomingdales etc looking for a 36 regular...eeek....sorry sir the smallest size we carry any more is a 38.....your size is no longer made....

10 years ago it wasn't easy but it's getting absurd.

Any ideas?

I feel your pain, but in a different way. The target audience is a sack of *****, apparently. Now, 36 . . . that's kinda small, ain't it? :) My problem, is that I have a 46 inch chest but a 33 inch waist. Each time I buy a suit (and I wear one every day) I have to have the pants re-cut. The standard difference between chest and waist (called "dropoff") is 4 to 6 inches. I'm not as slim as I once was, but I ain't got no 40 inch waist.

Out of curiosity, how many people here do wear a suit every day? I mean day-in, day-out? After doing it for a little while, I got used to it. I wear suits much more often on weekends for social events and dinners and such. Suits that fit can be quite comfortable and have an elegance that I like.

[Ozz]

I feel your pain, but in a different way. The target audience is a sack of *****, apparently. Now, 36 . . . that's kinda small, ain't it? :) My problem, is that I have a 46 inch chest but a 33 inch waist. Each time I buy a suit (and I wear one every day) I have to have the pants re-cut. The standard difference between chest and waist (called "dropoff") is 4 to 6 inches. I'm not as slim as I once was, but I ain't got no 40 inch waist.

Out of curiosity, how many people here do wear a suit every day? I mean day-in, day-out? After doing it for a little while, I got used to it. I wear suits much more often on weekends for social events and dinners and such. Suits that fit can be quite comfortable and have an elegance that I like.
The standard American "businessman's" suit is called a "sack suit"...not sure why I'm telling you this, just thought you might want to know.

You can special order suits from Nordstrom so you get the chest/waist drop you need...Hickey Freeman and Oxxford have "made to measure" programs where Nordy measures you, the suit is made at the factory, send to the store where the final fitting is done there. Typically by a Hong Kong tailor that wanted health insurance. Their house brand suits can also be ordered with different jacket and pant sizes, depending on production runs.

Brooks Brothers used to sell jackets and pants separately. Not sure if they still do. I haven't been in one since they started looking like the Gap.

I used to wear suits everyday until about 1998...the bank then went to "business casual", whatever that is? Now, I will wear a suit or sportcoat when I first meet with clients...then they tell me they dressed up to meet with their banker. From then on it's Dockers and golf shirts.

Today I am wearing JM saddle shoes, Dockers and a Cutter & Buck Hawaiian golf shirt (official bank wear from corporate golf tournament ;) ). No meetings today! :beer:

[coylifut]

Hickey Freeman and Oxxford have "made to measure" programs where Nordy measures you, the suit is made at the factory, send to the store where the final fitting is done there. Typically by a Hong Kong tailor that wanted health insurance. Their house brand suits can also be ordered with different jacket and pant sizes, depending on production runs.



I sitting here taking a short break wearing one of those made to measure Hickey Freeman suits. My problem with the Hickey Freeman has been that the trousers wear unusually fast for a suit at this price point.

Thanks for all the replys gang.

[Ken Robb]

typically the most luxurious, soft fabrics do wear quicker than harder finished goods. They sure do feel good though. I love the look of tweed but couldn't stand the pants for itching. I even had some pants lined with the same silky material lining the jacket but then the pants were too hot inside the office.

[andy mac]

paul smith, he's one of us. (ok, not that I am a cat 1 racer but i digress...)


funny how many people spend weeks sweating on the design, color scheme of their bikes but go out looking like some bad extra from the 80's movie Wall Street.

Think suit - frame.

Tie - bar tape.

Wheels, running gear etc - shirt.

Have some fun.

Go forth and break the cycle, pun intended, of the daggy blue/black US work suit!!

Gentlemens, time to style it up!!!!

[cookieguy]

Addmittedly a bit out of the ordinary taking recommendaitons on suits from a bicycle forum...but...it worked. 3 weeks ago a special ordered a Hickey Freeman suit and went in for the fitting on Saturday. In summary, think the 4th of July Ooooh Aaaahhh....soft, comfy, looks good.

Sad but true...when you are in a role to "pursuade an influence" people, looking the part manners, especialy when you are 10 years younger than most people in the job and look younger yet.

Thanks guys....

[ClutchCargo]

actually, my wife is likely the most low maintenance spouse one could ever hope for. However, she feels most men look dumpy and likes me to look nice in the work place.

I knew you guys would make fun of me. Go a head, pile on.

You're right, Coy-man, that's not high maintenance; in fact, just the opposite. She's taking care of you, for Pete's sake! Some just don't get it, I guess.

I always like it when something my s.o. purchased for me to wear draws a compliment (and it happens a lot). :)

[Hysbrian]

I was just talking with my roommate about this yesterday. We were talking about how it is getting harder and harder to find men's dress shirts, pants, jackets...ext. that fit correctly. In general it just seems like everything is getting bigger and bigger. My roommate is more of an "average" build then me, but I was surprised at how dissapointed he was when he came back last weekend after trying to find some new clothing.

[davids]

I was just talking with my roommate about this yesterday. We were talking about how it is getting harder and harder to find men's dress shirts, pants, jackets...ext. that fit correctly. In general it just seems like everything is getting bigger and bigger. My roommate is more of an "average" build then me, but I was surprised at how dissapointed he was when he came back last weekend after trying to find some new clothing.
Lands End 'tailored fit' for dress shirts (the no-iron pinpoints are impressive!) Wong's Tailor of Kowloon for suits and trousers.

[e-RICHIE]

I was just talking with my roommate about this yesterday. We were talking about how it is getting harder and harder to find men's dress shirts, pants, jackets...ext. that fit correctly. In general it just seems like everything is getting bigger and bigger. My roommate is more of an "average" build then me, but I was surprised at how dissapointed he was when he came back last weekend after trying to find some new clothing.

the only thing that matters is that the stripes
on your tie descend "from the heart" rather
than the other way.

[Hysbrian]

the only thing that matters is that the stripes
on your tie descend "from the heart" rather
than the other way.

and that they're red.
....oh yeah and put some straws in the inside pocket, yo.

[davids]

the only thing that matters is that the stripes
on your tie descend "from the heart" rather
than the other way.

http://www.cartoonbank.com/assets/1/66628_m.gif

[djg]

paul smith, he's one of us. (ok, not that I am a cat 1 racer but i digress...)


funny how many people spend weeks sweating on the design, color scheme of their bikes but go out looking like some bad extra from the 80's movie Wall Street.



Yeah, well ... not all off-the-rack suits are equal, but more often than not, I can find something at Syms in which I'll look decent, and I am very firmly of the belief that there is no tailor working on Saville Row who is capable of making me look beautiful. So it's Sy and Marcy for Ralphie and Burberry and the rest stays in the college funds for the little ones. Satificing kids. It's all about bounded search and good-enough solutions.

[taz-t]

Are there any US based Taylors worth considering?
Help

:beer:

Well, there's certainly a few US based Taylors worth considering. But you'll probably have better luck with your clothes if you find a tailor instead.

- Taz Taylor

Seriously though - check e-richie's blog. He's got a link to a bespoke Saville Row tailor blog that can show you what to look for in a quality suit (beyond the label.

[SoCalSteve]

Suits are for weddings and funerals, both sad occasions! :D

What about Bar Mitzvahs?