What's causing my problem with this wheel build

[echappist]

I'm trying to build up a kinlin rim to Chris King R45 hub using DT comp and supercomp spokes. Before i even was able to lace the wheel, it became apparent that many of the spokes won't turn through the elbow. A customer service rep at CK suggested i put a bit of mineral oil on the spoke hole. While this helped, the spokes aren't anywhere near parallel to the flanges (see below).

What could be the issue here? Thanks in advance.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-sukCMuQ7QZA/Tt1LGjaMiBI/AAAAAAAABwo/Tqkf_eaGQS8/s640/IMG_0421.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-kpYfQRtLJtA/Tt1LJPS7K0I/AAAAAAAABwo/yilZH-mc4Rk/s640/IMG_0422.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-g_OZcW0xggU/Tt1LJdBK_AI/AAAAAAAABwo/h4HnkYna4Z0/s640/IMG_0424.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bt-VsahmgtM/Tt1LJzbC4XI/AAAAAAAABwo/NTxnNjAXWq0/s640/IMG_0425.JPG

[Gummee]

Nothing's wrong as far as I can see. Just like BMW MCs 'they all do that.'

Do one side then the other and you won't have anything to worry about.

M

[thwart]

The driveside spokes look to hang pretty much right in the pics...

I'm no expert, but in my (limited) experience DT Comp spokes are really tight to build with, especially with a new hub. I frequently have to thread the spoke through the hub rather than just drop it through. Tighter tolerances here are probably better in the long run for durability, but can be a little (or a lot) inconvenient.

Of course, maybe the hub is defective... but that seems less likely. Or possibly the spokes, but if both the Comps and SuperComps have the same issue...

[TimmyB]

Is this your first wheelbuild? Quite a baller way to go for the first one :banana:

I agree with the posters above - based on the pictures it looks like it's OK. Once you start lacing the spokes to the rim everything will work itself out.

Good luck! :beer:

[echappist]

thanks for all the responses. I'll go ahead and see if it works. Worst comes to worst, i break all 28 spokes and spend $30 on new ones.

This is actually my fourth build, previous ones include:

24H Powertap hub laced to kinlin XR300 using DT Comp spokes. Got two of Old Potato's three strikes there. But it held up extremely well for 4000 miles before i sold it

32H F&R Velocity Razor rims laced to 105 hubs using Sapim Race spokes. This was last week and i'd think Old Potato would considered it "kosher"

and then my current build: 28H CK R45 to Kinlin XR300. 2x NDS with supercomp and 3x DS with comp.

[mister]

i always seat the spoke as well as it will go
then just bend the spoke a little bit so it turns out the flange a little more like it's headed straight to where the eyelet will be.

[staggerwing]

If the heads aren't fully seated, you can give 'em a whack after lacing the wheel. Of course, not with a direct hammer blow. Find a substantial hunk-o-plastic to use as a drift punch. I have a some 3/4" delrin rod stock around the lab, and a 10-12" length works just perfect for the task.

If needed you can apply a little traction to pull the spoke around the flange, and get a little more set in the j-bend. It will happen during tensioning anyway.

Make sure you fully stress relieve too. After all of this, the 'upset' head of the spoke should be flush with the hub flange. Yes, there is going to be some plastic (ie permanent) deformation in the spoke holes too. Look at any hub that has had a previous build, and you will see what I referring to.

Still pretty ballsy for a fourth build. General plan sounds quite sound though.

[ultraman6970]

Do they have to be parallel?? Dont see anything wrong with the spokes unless u got the wrong size.

[Peter P.]

There's nothing wrong with your hub or spokes.

Tight tolerances in the spoke holes, flange thickness, or spoke diameter maybe, but that's it.

As the wheels come up to tension, the spoke holes will deform to accommodate the spoke and the spoke elbow will take a set in the angle needed to do its job.

Prestressing the spokes while bringing up the tension will assure your spokes wind up at the proper angle and won't loosen after the initial miles.

The concept of having to retrue a wheel after some sort of break-in period is only for those that have not learned to build wheels properly.

[oldpotatoe]

I'm trying to build up a kinlin rim to Chris King R45 hub using DT comp and supercomp spokes. Before i even was able to lace the wheel, it became apparent that many of the spokes won't turn through the elbow. A customer service rep at CK suggested i put a bit of mineral oil on the spoke hole. While this helped, the spokes aren't anywhere near parallel to the flanges (see below).

What could be the issue here? Thanks in advance.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-sukCMuQ7QZA/Tt1LGjaMiBI/AAAAAAAABwo/Tqkf_eaGQS8/s640/IMG_0421.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-kpYfQRtLJtA/Tt1LJPS7K0I/AAAAAAAABwo/yilZH-mc4Rk/s640/IMG_0422.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-g_OZcW0xggU/Tt1LJdBK_AI/AAAAAAAABwo/h4HnkYna4Z0/s640/IMG_0424.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bt-VsahmgtM/Tt1LJzbC4XI/AAAAAAAABwo/NTxnNjAXWq0/s640/IMG_0425.JPG

Normal. Bend the spokes at the flange when tension is very low(before threading the nipps initially) to help the line from the flange to the rim. may need to 'seat' the spoke heads when you have a little bit of tension. DT makes a tool for this.

http://www.petracycles.co.uk/product_info.php?language=en&currency=USD&products_id=12778&source=googleus

Also a screw driver handle pushed toward the hub when the tension is fairly low also.
All normal with fattish flange, smallish spoke holes. Far better than great bike spoke holes and sloppy fit of the spoke in the flange.

[echappist]

thanks everyone :hello:. This is by far one of the most knowledgeable, helpful forum i've been in :beer:.

It never occurred to me in my very amateur building experience, that seating the spoke could be a problem, and i was kinda freaked out.

It has now been built up, and required quite a few more rounds of stress relieving than i have done in the past, but the tensions have now been stabilized.

now i just need to figure out how to adjust the preload

[thwart]

This is by far one of the most knowledgeable, helpful forum i've been in . Got that right. and we're all good-looking too. Oh, yeah---and very strong riders.

But seriously, you've got folks like David Kirk, Kirk Pacenti, Tom Kellogg, 'E-Richie', 'oldpotatoe', 'Kontact', and many other very knowledgeable people hanging out here from time to time.

All that and the price of admission is fairly reasonable...