On that stupid stuff Campag puts on UT BB cup threads!

[AngryScientist]

Just venting. That hard cream colored looking compound is annoying. It mostly scrapes off, mixes with the grease I'm using and makes a mess. I would rather they just leave the threads bare like everyone else so we can apply our own thread prep. Why do they think this is necessary?

[Spaghetti Legs]

I have installed 2 sets of those cups, one set silver colored, the other the green color and the green ones had that stuff. It pissed me off too. I assume it’s a thread locker but was gritty, hard, and impossible to remove. I partially stripped the installation notches torqueing the cups to install and when finished they looked like they had been ridden 1000 miles already.

I’m glad someone else brought this up. I always thought mine were a one off.

[fmradio516]

ive experienced the same. Isnt the threadlocker useless if it dries before installation?

[reuben]

Originally Posted by AngryScientist

Just venting. That hard cream colored looking compound is annoying. It mostly scrapes off, mixes with the grease I'm using and makes a mess. I would rather they just leave the threads bare like everyone else so we can apply our own thread prep. Why do they think this is necessary?

Coming soon - Silca StripChip for Campy bottom brackets.

[bil]

HAHAHA
and I always thought it was me...

thank you for confirming that it isn't! ...

[Mark McM]

Originally Posted by fmradio516

ive experienced the same. Isnt the threadlocker useless if it dries before installation?

A thread locker is anything that takes up space and increases friction in the threads. so a dried compound can act as a thread locker. Take for example, nyloc nuts, which use a solid piece of nylon:

[Nomadmax]

I always brush the threads clean on new UT cups before install. They cake that stuff on there so thick it can cause binding.

[bigbill]

I must be a bad mechanic because I smeared grease over the threads and installed the cups. The first UT cups I installed in 2006 were Aye-talian and the DS backed out on the test ride. I relied on the gunk campy puts on the threads. After that, grease and gorilla torque. I've always been able to remove the cups.

[tellyho]

Argument for Shimano?

[kytyree]

I haven't messed with it lately but I remember thinking sometimes it was easier to remove than others. I used to use a wire brush but decided it was easier using a knife blade and cleaning the threads with that.

[Elefantino]

I’ve always been in the “must be Italian!” camp and just greased the frame, oomphed through the Campy sludge and been done with it.

[Hindmost]

Originally Posted by Elefantino

... “must be Italian!”...

On the other hand I assumed the threadlocker kept my far superior Italian threaded cup from backing out.

[C40_guy]

Originally Posted by Elefantino

I’ve always been in the “must be Italian!” camp and just greased the frame, oomphed through the Campy sludge and been done with it.

I did that once on a newer Colnago...turned out to have British threads.

[Spaghetti Legs]

Originally Posted by C40_guy

I did that once on a newer Colnago...turned out to have British threads.

Yes, my rant above was on an English thread Colnago EPS - probably the real reason I was so bitter.

[e-RICHIE]

i use an x-acto blade to remove all of it and then liberally grease the threads.

after i smoke a cigarette, i install the cups into a liberally greased bb shell.

ps

arrange disorder