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#16
12-15-2005, 10:14 AM
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no muscle needed
I always tighten my pedals by finger touch, and finish off with very light wrench tightening. Your pedal stroke will not allow the pedal to loosen. This makes future pedal removal a breeze.
Byron 
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#17
12-15-2005, 11:08 AM
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In my experience there is an analogy between bike mechanics who tighten the heck out of a pedal and the "technicians" at my local tire store that use an impact driver to tighten the heck out of your lug nuts. Either way the result is the same - overtightened and a royal pain to loosen with "normal" hand tools!
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#18
12-15-2005, 12:25 PM
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Ask Sandy about pedals/crank arms which aren't put on tight enough.
TT has it right. Get the right pedal forward, the wrench facing backwards and put some serious muscle and weight down into it. Same on the left side: pedal forward, wrench backwards and put your body into it.
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#19
12-15-2005, 02:33 PM
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Are they ti?
I've had ti mtb spindles gall and stick,so if they are ti,I would use a ti anti seize compound if you ever get them off.I agree with mild heat too.Since the arms are Record,I assume they don't need chased.
dan
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#21
12-15-2005, 03:22 PM
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what TT said. any other way can be dangerous. for example instead of pushing down to remove the pedal, you could pull up... which is bad. once i pulled up with all my might, pedal got loose, and i effectively smacked my face with the tool. notfun. so make sure chest is on the saddle and u're pushin down.
once that's done, as said already, when u put the pedal back on just screw it on all the way then a few turns to make it somewhat tight. sd
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#22
12-15-2005, 03:31 PM
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add a section of pipe to the end of the wrench- maybe about 3 feet worth- that should give you enough leverage- I would think
Jason
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Jason©™® Last edited by dirtdigger88; 12-15-2005 at 04:39 PM.
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#24
12-15-2005, 04:18 PM
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My simple bit of advice is to get yourself one of the new Park PRS20 workstands. It is the one that clamps the front or rear wheel and the bb sits in a cradle. The reason I say this is that you can use a socket wrench with an allen head socket and get to the pedal from the rear. With this stand you can leverage the head of the socket wrench against the tube of the workstand and really get a good amount of torque to loosen the pedal really easily. Well, I don't know if I have described it well so let me dash and take a picture....
As you can see that makes it really easy. Not knowing speedplay I don't even know if they have the recessed allen socket on the back of the axle, but for those pedals that do, it works a treat. I always had issues getting pedals off, but no more!!
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"Progress is made by lazy men looking for easier ways to do things." - Robert Heinlein
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#26
12-15-2005, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Hookahs for everyone!!!!  Jason
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Jason©™®
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#27
12-15-2005, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
And thanks to everyone else who offered some great ways to take care of this situation!!!
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#28
12-16-2005, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
What the heck can you do with a rubber mullet?  William  
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#30
12-16-2005, 09:41 AM
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Wundered it that would go unchecked...
after mulling over CT's plight, I thought hitting the wrench with a rubber fish might loosen the stubborn pedal.
Dekonick, I feed the same fish to Sandy so he'll perform his tricks. "Tricks?", you ask? I don't wanna get into that right now.
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