Know the rules The Paceline Forum Builder's Spotlight


Go Back   The Paceline Forum > General Discussion

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 10-20-2017, 01:54 PM
cloudguy cloudguy is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Longmont, CO
Posts: 571
Should I push for a warranty replacement of my rim?

Went on a ride yesterday and noticed a persistent, yet intermittent, rear wheel tire rub on a long steep climb where the subtle increase in friction every wheel rotation started to affect my pedaling. I was confused as to why this was happening, so I took it to the same shop that had replaced the rims this past January. They looked at it and concluded that the rear rim was bent, since they couldn't get it trued on the stand and also because of the intermittent nature of the rub. The rim is a Bontrager Race X-lite aluminum clincher, which I have so far been happy with - my last set of X-lite rims had to be replaced because the rim walls were finally worn down from braking. I don't recall riding over any potholes or bumps that could have damaged my rim - a question that the shop guy asked when looking at the wheel. Also, its not like I'm riding anywhere that I haven't ridden in the past 15 years with no rims getting bent. Do I have any standing to push for a warranty of the rim (which now has around 5000 miles on it) or is it just bad luck on my part as the shop person has suggested? If I have to suck it up and replace the rim, should I go with totally different brand (which would also require replacing the front rim for aesthetic reasons - silly, I know) or stick with Bontrager?

Thanks in advance for any insight.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 10-20-2017, 02:06 PM
dddd dddd is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 2,204
A suddenly-bent wheel with no history of trauma often turns out to be a failing rim, where the eyelet is no longer being fully supported by the surrounding rim walls.
Note that inner and outer walls can fail on double-walled rims, so the failure could be hidden under rim tape.

Look for cracks in the aluminum, both inside and outside of the rim.

The eyelets themselves may also fail, especially when corrosion has been at work, and can be hard to locate without first locating the affected spoke with lost tension.

Sometimes also some harmless settling of mating surfaces can occur and cause a spoke to lose some tension, but this is less common so a tension evaluation and inspection are warranted.

I would at least now mark the location of the affected spoke (the one that best responds to truing tension to correct your current out-of true condition), and keep an eye on that spoke's tension and surrounding structures, including at the hub.

Last edited by dddd; 10-20-2017 at 02:12 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 10-20-2017, 04:11 PM
Mark McM Mark McM is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 11,987
Rims don't just bend on their own - they have to be subjected to an (excessive) outside force. As noted by dddd, a cracked rim or failed eyelet can result in a rim going out of round - but in this case, the rim is generally not bent, and the wheel can be straightened by re-balancing the spoke tension (although this straightening may be temporary, as the rim cracks continue to grow). Cracks large enough to cause a rim to go out true should be visible.

If there are no cracks or broken eyelets visible, and the rim can not be straightened by re-balancing the spoke tension, then the rim is bent. The only way this would be warrantiable is if the rim was already bent from the factory; if this were the case, it could only have been round if the spoke tensions were wildly unbalanced. If the spoke tension when new was reasonably well balanced, then the most likely scenario is if you hit something and bent the rim.

Last edited by Mark McM; 10-20-2017 at 04:26 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 10-20-2017, 04:21 PM
AngryScientist's Avatar
AngryScientist AngryScientist is offline
Administrator
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: northeast NJ
Posts: 33,120
5000 miles? Warranty issues usually present themselves well before that.

As the guys above me mentioned, there is some cause for the out of true you describe. Doesn't just happen, and if the wheel was straight and true for the past 5k miles and just started to rub, the rim was OK to start with.

Sounds like your "wheel guy" is being a bit lazy, or doesn't know his stuff. He should probably be able to tell you what's going on based on a good visual inspection and spoke tension measurement.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 10-20-2017, 04:44 PM
charliedid's Avatar
charliedid charliedid is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Chicago
Posts: 12,913
I second what Angry said above.

I can't tell you what is wrong or what happened but at 5000 you're done.

Time for new wheels.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 10-20-2017, 04:55 PM
oldpotatoe's Avatar
oldpotatoe oldpotatoe is offline
Proud Grandpa
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Republic of Boulder, USA
Posts: 47,036
Quote:
Originally Posted by cloudguy View Post
Went on a ride yesterday and noticed a persistent, yet intermittent, rear wheel tire rub on a long steep climb where the subtle increase in friction every wheel rotation started to affect my pedaling. I was confused as to why this was happening, so I took it to the same shop that had replaced the rims this past January. They looked at it and concluded that the rear rim was bent, since they couldn't get it trued on the stand and also because of the intermittent nature of the rub. The rim is a Bontrager Race X-lite aluminum clincher, which I have so far been happy with - my last set of X-lite rims had to be replaced because the rim walls were finally worn down from braking. I don't recall riding over any potholes or bumps that could have damaged my rim - a question that the shop guy asked when looking at the wheel. Also, its not like I'm riding anywhere that I haven't ridden in the past 15 years with no rims getting bent. Do I have any standing to push for a warranty of the rim (which now has around 5000 miles on it) or is it just bad luck on my part as the shop person has suggested? If I have to suck it up and replace the rim, should I go with totally different brand (which would also require replacing the front rim for aesthetic reasons - silly, I know) or stick with Bontrager?

Thanks in advance for any insight.
5000 miles? Sorry, no warranty imho. Plenty of nice rims out there. BIG fan of DT, also H+Son and Velocity.
__________________
Chisholm's Custom Wheels
Qui Si Parla Campagnolo
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 10-20-2017, 09:00 PM
bikinchris bikinchris is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 4,324
Shoulda bought Rolf.
__________________
Forgive me for posting dumb stuff.
Chris
Little Rock, AR
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 10-20-2017, 09:23 PM
Tony Tony is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Sacramento CA
Posts: 2,745
DT Swiss R460, $37.00 ea. Great rim for the money.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 10-20-2017, 09:33 PM
charliedid's Avatar
charliedid charliedid is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Chicago
Posts: 12,913
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony View Post
DT Swiss R460, $37.00 ea. Great rim for the money.
This is true. Currently riding them.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 10-21-2017, 02:50 PM
cloudguy cloudguy is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Longmont, CO
Posts: 571
Quote:
Originally Posted by AngryScientist View Post
Sounds like your "wheel guy" is being a bit lazy, or doesn't know his stuff. He should probably be able to tell you what's going on based on a good visual inspection and spoke tension measurement.
Yeah, my wheel guy is apparently lazy. Took the wheel back to him, after his initial attempt at spoke adjustment didn't really help. The latter was just two minutes of work at no cost while I was standing there in my kit after a ride. He didn't tell me this initially, but apparently one of the spokes wasn't turning because it was frozen, so he soaked the nipples in something and was then able to true the wheel properly. Wish he would of told me about that to begin with. My hope for warranty after 5000 miles was based on my experience with my first set of X-lite rims, which were warrantied after several years of use due to cracks developing around the spoke holes - apparently a systematic problem for that early generation of rims.

Thanks for all the input.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 10-22-2017, 11:41 AM
unterhausen unterhausen is offline
Randomhead
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
Posts: 6,950
I would say cracking is a lot more commonly replaced under warranty than a bent rim.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 10-23-2017, 10:28 AM
Mark McM Mark McM is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 11,987
Quote:
Originally Posted by cloudguy View Post
My hope for warranty after 5000 miles was based on my experience with my first set of X-lite rims, which were warrantied after several years of use due to cracks developing around the spoke holes - apparently a systematic problem for that early generation of rims.
Rim cracks are a different issue. Rim cracks caused by fatigue (without extenuating incidents) are generally due to problems in material and/or design & construction. Fatigue cracked rims should be warranty-able in most situations.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 10-23-2017, 07:00 PM
cloudguy cloudguy is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Longmont, CO
Posts: 571
Well, the wheel rub didn't go away, even after truing of the wheel. The shop guy was adamant that the hub was too wide for the frame (a 2009ish litespeed), because hubs have apparently been getting wider with time. He suggested switching to a 23 mm tire, instead of the 25mm I had on there, which I did, but still the rubbing came back. An important piece of information, to my mind, was that the rubbing was only happening during sustained climbing and I had no problems during the past 9 months with the 25 mm tires I had on there previously. A kudos will be given to the forum member who can identify what the ultimate problem was.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 10-23-2017, 07:11 PM
echelon_john echelon_john is offline
extremely tall
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: paris, france / southern vermont
Posts: 4,364
broken axle

Quote:
Originally Posted by cloudguy View Post
Well, the wheel rub didn't go away, even after truing of the wheel. The shop guy was adamant that the hub was too wide for the frame (a 2009ish litespeed), because hubs have apparently been getting wider with time. He suggested switching to a 23 mm tire, instead of the 25mm I had on there, which I did, but still the rubbing came back. An important piece of information, to my mind, was that the rubbing was only happening during sustained climbing and I had no problems during the past 9 months with the 25 mm tires I had on there previously. A kudos will be given to the forum member who can identify what the ultimate problem was.
__________________
Enjoy every sandwich.
-W. Zevon
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 10-23-2017, 07:17 PM
cloudguy cloudguy is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Longmont, CO
Posts: 571
Quote:
Originally Posted by echelon_john View Post
broken axle
Ding-ding-ding. We have a winner. Many kudos to you. Wish you had been my mechanic instead of the guy who made me feel like an idiot for coming back multiple times and forcing me to buy a 23 mm tire, in spite of the fact that 25 mm worked fine before. So what would cause an axle to break without any other substantial damage to the wheel?
Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:31 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.