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#16
09-29-2016, 04:36 PM
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On my 11S setups, I run a very similar 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 22, 25, 28 using a SRAM 1190 cassette although for extremely steep hilly, I run 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 22, 25, 28, 32. It is the 16T that I miss then. 
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#17
09-29-2016, 05:42 PM
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Have you looked at IRD?
They have Campy Compatible 10-speed in 11-28, 12-28, 11-30, 11-32, 11-34, 12-30 and 12-32 http://www.interlocracing.com/casset...oad-cassette-1
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#18
09-29-2016, 08:14 PM
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Work out the lowest gear you think you'll need then go lower. Maybe the 13 ~ 29. That's a long ride and those Alpine climbs go forever.
__________________
'Everybody's got to believe in something. I believe I'll have another beer.' -- W. C. Fields
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#20
09-30-2016, 06:07 AM
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I've had a lot of experience mixing up cogs from Campy 10's loose cog cassettes......using cogs from 14-23, 13-26, 13-29, and 12-30 cassettes. I change cassettes a lot, or use different wheels on same bike with a different cassette....depending on where I'm riding.
When you order a 10's loose cog cassette, it usually comes with a chart explaining what spacer goes where.....3 different widths (except for the 12-27 and 12-30.....where all spacers are same). it also tells you what cog follows what cog. Example....a 19 following 18 not same cog as a 19 following 17. And whether or not a 19 (as an example) is 6th cog over or 5th, or 7th, etc.....also seems to matter (timing). So my advice is.....unless you already have some different cassettes laying around to experiment with.....best to just buy the one you need. And as above mentioned....don't overlook IRD 10's cassettes for Campy for climbing needs.
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#21
09-30-2016, 06:14 AM
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Marchisio cassettes let you build your own configurations
http://www.marchisio.eu/pignoni-cassette/ I keep things simple, if it's flat I have a 12-23 on 42/54 and if I'm in the Alps I run 12-25 on 39/53
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#22
09-30-2016, 08:31 AM
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From the UK shops you can get BBB or Miche cassettes. Both are loose cog cassettes. I've used both (using, to be precise). The cogs aren't as durable as campy, plating flakes off, and if you're actually strong, you'll crack cogs (at a race someone asked me if I thought a cog was cracked, it was, and he told me it was the 3rd or 4th cog he cracked, but he's really strong also).
Ramps... lining them up only really matters for multiple shifts. For shifting into a larger cog the chain will wait for the moment of least resistance, i.e. the ramp. Then it'll crawl up to the next cog. For shifting into smaller cogs it waits until a shortened tooth (in the ramp). In the old days I filed down teeth on my cassette and chainring to encourage shifting at particular points (because at first Campy didn't do that and Shimano did). Now it's not necessary. I understand the lure of having an 18T or whatever. At the limit it's nice to have one tooth jumps. However, having experimented with such things, including a weird all-titanium loose-cog cassettes with absolutely bizarre spacing (12-13-14-15-19-21-23-25 or something like that), I now ride with stock cassettes, albeit in mostly flatter stuff. Don't discount high gears. I don't know your route/area but keep in mind that as you fatigue you'll be less able to spin higher cadences. Plus once you're going about 45-50 mph (very easy on a steep descent, and sustainable for long periods of time on a mountain descent), you'll quickly out-run an easier top gear. I run a 53x11 and spin it out on descents to the point where it's faster to just tuck. Around here we only have 1 mile descents, give or take, but when I did my rides in SoCal there was one 8? minute descent and one 35 minute descent. If you're light in weight you'll realistically need to apply power to stay with heavier riders. When I was 185-200 lbs I could out descend my good friend in SoCal no problem just by coasting, to the point where on that 35 minute descent I gained a few minutes on him in just 1 mile (I stopped because I thought he crashed because I didn't see him anymore, and while I was debating going back up the mountain he caught up to me). However at 150-155 lbs he out descended me, I had to pedal to stay with him, even if I was drafting him. When I ran a 55x11 (had to use it, only chainring around was a 55T from the tandem as I'd worn the two 53T I had) I had more fun on the descents because I could maintain higher speeds and ride away from guys who were frantically spinning their smaller gears. I wouldn't go to a 55, too much compromise in the small chainring, but if you're running a standard (53/39), mid compact (52/36), or compact (50/34 or similar), I'd absolutely stay with the 11T small cog.
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#23
09-30-2016, 09:55 AM
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I've read that Miche cassettes can cause spline damage to the freehub as the all the cogs are individual (the larger campy/shimano/IRD cogs are bound together)
I've no experience with this, just what I read somewhere when I was looking for a larger gearing than Campy offered (I went with IRD)
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#24
09-30-2016, 10:16 AM
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I really like building my own cassettes. I mix shimano & miche cogs. Rolling terrain around here, some steep hills, no real extended fast downhills, I'm a bit cautious on descents. I don’t race or ride fast pacelines. Lately, with a 48x34 I’ve been really happy with 14, 16, 17, 18, 19, 21, 24, 28, 32. I use 9 speed, seems long lasting. Shifts are quick & precise. I like small jumps where I spend the majority of my riding, the 17-19. I seldom run out of top end, when I do, I tuck. Yeah, individual cogs dig into the cassette carrier making it hard to remove cogs
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#25
09-30-2016, 10:48 AM
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Linear Mode
