Campy 10s fd shift issue

[Web1111a]

I have a chorus 2007 ct fd.

Centuar silver compact square taper crank 34 50

Matching centaur italien threaded bottom bracket

Centaur silver rd

What is happening is under load shifting to the little ring from big ring fails

Seems to get stuck


Requires a back pedal to get onto ring

My guess is hanging up somewhere

Any recommendations on how to adjust

Thanks

[thirdgenbird]

It could be any number of things without seeing it, but here is my best reccomendation to set up c10.

Remove FD cable
Put adjuster barrel all the way in
Put chain on largest cog and small ring
Set FD limit so the chain is .5mm from FD cage
Install FD cable by pulling cable tight
Give the barrel a little turn so the cable is tight at rest
Shift to big ring/little cog
Make sure upper limit is set so the cage is just off the chain

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by Web1111a

I have a chorus 2007 ct fd.

Centuar silver compact square taper crank 34 50

Matching centaur italien threaded bottom bracket

Centaur silver rd

What is happening is under load shifting to the little ring from big ring fails

Seems to get stuck


Requires a back pedal to get onto ring

My guess is hanging up somewhere

Any recommendations on how to adjust

Thanks

Make sure the height is proper(about 1.5mm minimum) and the alignment is proper...outer cage parallel to chain when in big ring and smallest(highest gear) cog. Also when in small ring and biggest cog(lowest gear), clearance from chain to inner cage about 1mm-1.5mm...

[carpediemracing]

Picture?

Lower the front derailleur the better.

I keep the outer cage sort of parallel to the chainring. The tail tends to get pulled inward and that really messes up the shifting.

I use channel locks (on METAL CAGES ONLY) to tighten up the opening in the front. Just a mm or two, really makes a difference.

Remember that the big->little is spring driven only, so any friction in the cable/housing will slow down the shift.

Also, for same reason, any lack of lubrication in the pivots etc will also slow down the shift.

I also adjust the derailleur to go past the small ring and I use a N-Gear Jumpstop (metal cage type guard) to keep the chain on target. Allows the "over shift" move without worrying about dropping the chain. Then click it a notch or so to center the derailleur.

[Web1111a]

Thanks for the help

If I get a chance I will post pic

Sounds like the lbs needs to check their work

It shifts great except under load so I bet they wouldn't of caught it in a quick spin around block

[Web1111a]

All cable and housing brand new and campy

[carpediemracing]

Originally Posted by Web1111a

It shifts great except under load so I bet they wouldn't of caught it in a quick spin around block

Most LBS mechanics I've seen work will automatically ease a bit when making a big-little chainring shift because that's the best way to shift into the small ring. It's probably subconscious. Last time I saw it a staff member of a LBS was helping someone with a fit and the customer could not, for the life of him, get into the small ring on a fluid trainer. Customer never eased. LBS staff member could repeatedly shift into the small ring, at 10-20 rpm (so slow you could almost count the teeth as they passed the derailleur cage), no problems.

Remember, ONLY THE SPRING is moving the derailleur in the big-> small shift. If you put enough force on the chain I guarantee you your front derailleur will never shift to the small ring.

With electric it's a different story.