Advice for Shimano 11 speed upgrade

[Mud]

Originally Posted by saab2000

5800 and not 5700 is the 11-speed.

I have a new 5800 groupset and I'm very pleased with it. Other than weight and finish, I can't really tell any difference in operation between it and the 9000 on a couple other bikes. Personally, I wouldn't bother with anything else.

That said, I did get a complete 5800 groupset with Shimano cables and chain and not a mix of other things. I got the complete groupset and it's what I'd recommend for any level of any groupset.

I just put a 5800 group on my Legend and am very pleased. Shifting is fine, heavier than Dura Ace but at $400 for a whole group (sans) wheels, how could I go wrong.

[RowanB]

Since no one else has mentioned it, I'd stick with the Shimano BB. With the mileage your wife does you'll likely get years out of the first one and when you need to replace it they're only $20ish for Ultegra.

[estilley]

I have 6800 complete on my roadie. Super happy with it. If I wasn't trying to go really light I would have just done 5800.

FD is a little tricky but with some interwebs help it all makes sense in the end.


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[tumbler]

Originally Posted by tv_vt

Luddite here. My wife's Serotta ti Fierte is really due for an update from worn out Ultegra 9 speed. I've got wheels that'll handle 11 speed, so I'm thinking of making the jump to Shimano 11 speed mechanical. (I considered Di2, but the hole drilling needs ruled that out. And not ready for eTap.)

She rides a couple of thousand miles a year. I'm thinking Ultegra 6800 with the 11-32 cassette and mid range RD, but I suppose I should also consider 5700, too.

If I went with 5700, should I go with 6800 for any individual parts, like shifters, etc? Or any DA upgrades I should consider? Am also thinking about a Hawk Racing bottom bracket after hearing good things about them. (Bike has regular English threaded BB.)

For once, I'll also probably have a LBS order the parts and do the install. I'm good with 9 speed stuff, but don't know my way around 11s too well.

Thanks for any thoughts on this.

My thoughts:

• 5800 is the 11-speed Shimano 105 groupset. 5700 is the older 10-spreed group so you don't want to mix/match that with 5800/6800 (11-speed) parts.
• 5800 is dirt cheap online (in the neighborhood of $350) and just as easy to install as the older 9-speed stuff, maybe easier. Of course, having the LBS order and install everything is great too... just pointing that out in case you don't mind, (or like me... prefer) to do-it-yourself.
• I have 5800 and 6800 and can't tell much difference between the two. Both are excellent. I would just do a complete 5800 group, or 6800 if you're feeling fancy.
• I don't think the Hawk BB will make much difference.

[Kirk007]

just an idea and not to start a Campy - Shimano thing, but, with eleven speed wheels you can use either. I just built a bike with Dura Ace 11 and am thinking of taking it off and selling it after less than 100 miles.

I chose Dura Ace more from a tribute rationale - NOS Merckx Motorola frame - but from a functional standpoint, I just prefer Campy - for me, a better shape hood, an equally functional but significantly less finicky front derailleur, better multiple shifting with ultra levers. Shimano freehub does let you use much more economical cassettes though!

[guido]

I have used Ultegra 6800 on a number of bikes. The RD-6800 GS really handles the wide range cassettes I like better than anything else out there. I nearly always use the FD-CX70 which just flat out works better than either the current Ultegra or DuraAce FDs and offers better clearance too...

[TimD]

I am in the process of migrating to 11-speed Shimano and have done 6 bikes so far, 3 in my household and 3 owned by others.

IMHO it feels considerably better than worn-out 9-speed DA, in several areas:

- Operation of the FD - Much lighter action. As compared to Ultegra and 105, easier to trim.
- Braking performance
- Shape of the levers & hoods
- Gaps between cogs are smaller
- Nice choice of cassette ranges (11/28 for example).

There are a few things you give up:

- Some parts formerly made of metal are now plastic.
- May not work with whatever hubs you've got (not a problem in your case).
- Interchange with Shimano MTB components
- Alternate sources for chainrings
- Flite Deck, at least with mechanical groups.
- Choice of silver finish, 105 excepted

For my most recent swap I went with 6800 base group and 9001 shifters for an extra $90 from an overseas seller. The DA shifters feel slightly better than 6800 shifters.

Shift cable longevity may be an issue, my jury is still out on this. I've seen one 'cable broke inside the shifter' failure, on a 6800 shifter, in about 6000 miles total. The owner of the bike suffering the failure is not mechanically sympathetic and probably ignored any symptoms until the cable failed completely.

There are a few things which make the installation somewhat more difficult or complicated as compared to a 9-speed group:

- Installation and adjustment of the FD. Suggest inclusion of an inline barrel adjuster if the cable stop does not include an adjuster.

- Chain pins require use of a chain tool compatible with 11-speed chains. Quick links are now available.

- The left crank arm includes a small plastic retention clip which may or may not be difficult to properly engage, depending on the precise width of the BB shell and how far into the BB shell you can thread the BB halves. From what I can tell from web wisdom, this clip serves only to sorta prevent the left crank arm from falling off in the event the clamping screws come loose and the crank arm moves outward on the spindle.

- The hoods are considerably longer, meaning your reach while on the hoods is now extended unless you swap the stem.

Hope that helps.
Tim

[Kirk007]

[QUOTE=TimD;2050655

- The hoods are considerably longer, meaning your reach while on the hoods is now extended unless you swap the stem.

Hope that helps.
Tim[/QUOTE]

This is what annoys me most about the group - a new shifter shouldn't necessitate a change in bars or stem that potentially changes the balance of the bike for every position except when your hands are on the hoods. This is a case where its worth a trip to the lbs to put hands on the goods.