29” MTB tires for dry conditions

[stephenmarklay]

Originally Posted by gdw

What are the trails like where you ride? Hardpack, loose, sandy....?

Mostly hard, a bit rocky, not too rooty but usually a dusting if sand.

[stephenmarklay]

Originally Posted by NHAero

I have the Ikon as well. In looser conditions, still dry, like sandy, I wish I had more bite. Otherwise excellent and a great rolling tire.

This sounds about like what I typically get. I have slid out the front on the light sandy top layer before.

[stephenmarklay]

Big help here guys. Thanks so much.

[p nut]

Of note: Ikon 2.35 is a much burlier tire than 2.2. Significant different. Still rolls fast enough, but much more pronounced lugs. This would make a good front tire if the 2.2 doesn't have enough bite. It feels much more supple than the Ardent Race as well.

[1X10]

I am currently running the Ardent front2.4 and back2.2 and really enjoy...just enough roll but along with the side lug for bite, it makes for a great all rounder!!

Have also ran the Ardent race...quick!!

[stephenmarklay]

I see that using a 2.4 front and 2.2 year is common. So I can see how this may promote some more rear end steering.

What is the logic for different sizes?

[Tony]

Originally Posted by stephenmarklay

I see that using a 2.4 front and 2.2 year is common. So I can see how this may promote some more rear end steering.

What is the logic for different sizes?

Wider up front gives better grip when cornering, less likely to wash out.

"A bigger contact patch makes for better steering control, and the higher volume helps to absorb big hits and maintain control in critical situations. Also, the extra weight doesn’t have as much of a perceived effect as it would on the rear wheel, which is directly attached to your drive train and thus, your legs.

Rear tires are where the power from your muscles turns into forward momentum. For this reason you want to use a rear tire with enough tread for traction, but not enough to create excessive resistance. This is also why a narrow tire goes on the rear wheel; it’s lighter, requiring less energy to rotate".

Heading up to Nevada City this morning, doing Burlington Ridge, Hallelujah, Scott's Drop, and the NEW Hoot trail!!

[simplemind]

Schwalbe 2.35 NN Trailstar front and 2.25 NN Pacestar rear is what you want. Highest traction & lowest rolling resistance combination there is. Also decent braking which any light Maxxis doesn't have.

Heavy Maxxis, ie DHR, DHF, HR are great if you have tree trunks for legs.

[Britishbane]

Ikon for all conditions except moderate to heavy mud.

[Fatty]

Originally Posted by stephenmarklay

This sounds about like what I typically get. I have slid out the front on the light sandy top layer before.

Maybe just weight the front tire more. Bend your elbows and drop your chest a bit.

[ofcounsel]

Originally Posted by Tony

Wider up front gives better grip when cornering, less likely to wash out.

"A bigger contact patch makes for better steering control, and the higher volume helps to absorb big hits and maintain control in critical situations. Also, the extra weight doesn’t have as much of a perceived effect as it would on the rear wheel, which is directly attached to your drive train and thus, your legs.

Rear tires are where the power from your muscles turns into forward momentum. For this reason you want to use a rear tire with enough tread for traction, but not enough to create excessive resistance. This is also why a narrow tire goes on the rear wheel; it’s lighter, requiring less energy to rotate".

Yep. It's also why some of us will use wider and burlier tires up front, with a less aggressive tire in the rear. Like using a Magic Mary front, with a Nobby Nic rear... Or a Nobby Nic front with a Racing Ralph Rear, or a Maxxis DHF front with an Maxxis Agressor rear.

[AJosiahK]

Magic Mary, file like tread in the center, large profile and great compound for a durable strong good riding tire. Plus the outer tread edges are bigger, so more bite on the turns.

I use it more for a rear enduro setup. and a knobbier tire up front.

Maxxis Ardents set up tubeless would be great. I do find them lacking in the front arena.

go shred !

[stephenmarklay]

Originally Posted by simplemind

Schwalbe 2.35 NN Trailstar front and 2.25 NN Pacestar rear is what you want. Highest traction & lowest rolling resistance combination there is. Also decent braking which any light Maxxis doesn't have.

Heavy Maxxis, ie DHR, DHF, HR are great if you have tree trunks for legs.

They now have a new compound called ADDIX that is supposed to be fast and grippy like the best of Trailstar and Pacestar.

[simplemind]

Originally Posted by stephenmarklay

They now have a new compound called ADDIX that is supposed to be fast and grippy like the best of Trailstar and Pacestar.

Yes, if/when you can get it which can be an issue with Schwalbe. I still think you'd be hard pressed to find a better overall set up than what I mentioned given your XC terrain.
That said, when it get's steep and gnarly, I want the biggest, toughest tire that fits my frame. For that I'm currently running the e*thirteen TRS Race which is a new tire that may indeed kick out the Maxxis Minion DHF that has been the gold standard front tire. I couple that with either the Minion DHR II or the Minion SS for the rear depending on how much climbing is involved.

[Mr Cabletwitch]

I've been a big fan of the Ikons for a while now, good predictable tire. I recently starting using bontrager expert tires for cost reasons on my EWR and I gotta say they are some good tires. I run an Xr2 on the rear and an xr3 on the front and love them. Getting ready to try a pair of WTB trail bosses on my new bike for the volume though. If money was no object Ikon is the way to go, if you want to save a few bucks try the Bontrager experts.