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These things are crazy deals at the $575 theyre asking for, and glad to see Weisan got one. I've been very happy with mine. |
#2
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they are used demo, really?
when I took it out of the box, I could have easily mistaken as new...not a scratch anywhere, not on the dropouts or bb or any place that has an outside interface. Anyway, I was motivated to move forward with this in part after reading your positive reviews so thank you sculler pal.
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#3
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Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk |
#4
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Yes, I think so, it certainly looks like it.
Also, appreciate reading your positive review, hill pal.
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#5
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Hope you enjoy it! Is this your first modern disc bike? |
#6
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Looks like i got the last XL "Demo" direct from Serotta. Was $349+tax. Includes cable guides! Picking it up in a couple weeks!
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#7
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If I had more cash laying around when these went on super-sale I’d have bought them out and started a “Team Dancing Banana” Service Course..
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Io non posso vivere senza la mia strada e la mia bici -- DP |
#8
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Off topic: I would love love love to have one of these old C'dale neutral support bikes.
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http://less-than-epic.blogspot.com/ |
#9
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Ugh I had one i bought for really cheap around 2011.. It had Sram 10 Force and the black Mavic SSC brake calipers... One of the top 3 bikes i wish i never sold Fit me so well and I dont think i had a good reason to sell it. I was just so compulsive back then.
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#10
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Oh dang i just realized im gonna have to figure out this whole "press-fit" thing... never had one. Whats the gold standard install to prevent creaking?
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#11
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Threaded, BSA or Italian.
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It's not an adventure until something goes wrong. - Yvon C. |
#12
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I was thinking more along the lines of that green loctite, but...
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#13
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BBInfinite sends Vibratite 530 and 538 depending on if you need the "repair" kit or not. I've just ordered my own online and use it for pressfit installs now.
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#14
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Didn’t have creak issues with the SRAM one either, but swapped BB to Wheels chasing a creak that turned out to by my Chris King hubs but neither me nor the mechanic could figure out. I’m riding it in the wet a lot so figure it was good cheap insurance. |
#15
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If the bottom bracket shell is within specification, all you need is: 1) ordinary grease 2) inexpensive plastic-sleeve PF30 bottom bracket ($20-ish dollars) 3) the correct number of spacers when installing the crankset (i.e. after bottom bracket installation is done). The spacers go against the "wavy washer" and help set the pre-load. If the crankset bolt is properly torqued, but it starts creaking after a few rides, you probably need another thin spacer next to the wavy washer to prevent movement - or two washers if that doesn't solve it. People like to freak out before actually getting the pre-load dialed in. Admittedly, those are things you don't need to do with a BSA threaded bottom bracket! The other main knock against PF30 bottom brackets is that most aren't well-sealed against water ingress, so they have a limited lifespan. But at $20 a pop and 5 minutes of time, it's not a big deal to knock out the old one and press in a new one. Note: The previous-generation Rotor 4630 bottom brackets are cheap, spin pretty well on my bikes, and install easily with a bearing press: Example for $21 including shipping: https://www.ebay.com/itm/382797265518 As for installation tips: Be gentle. Stop turning the handles on the bearing press when everything is gently snug. You are done. Now install the crankset with a torque wrench for the crankset bolt. Again, you may need to add a spacer (or two) to the crankset to get the preload tight enough to prevent movement (i.e. creaking) at the recommended torque. Don't try to fix this by using more torque on the crankset bolt. BEARING PRESS: You don't need anything fancy, but having a decent press makes the job very easy. I have one of these Wheels Manufacturing bottom bracket presses. Not too expensive (especially used via Ebay) and nicer to use than the DIY tools. Example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/285549423374 These presses are even cheaper and can even PULL OUT the old bottom bracket, so you don't have to knock it out with a wooden dowel and hammer (like I do). I've never used one, so can't vouch for how much of a pain they are compared to the nicer Wheels Manufacturing ones: https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/...ducte=11685194 BB30 CRANKSETS (compatible with PF30): - Really nice, older BB30 cranksets are super cheap on Ebay. Just avoid BB30A cranksets. Those are not the same (they have an assymetrical offset). You can get lightweight, full carbon BB30 cranksets for peanuts. - Any modern BB386 EVO crankset will also work on a PF30 frameset with an inexpensive set of spacers. Example of spacers: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007HVDJ8K...roduct_details - The benefit of getting a BB386 EVO crankset is that you can move it to another bike more easily if you outgrow this build. BB30/PF30 is basically dead. The short spindle on a BB30 crankset won't work on many modern frames. The BB386EVO, by contrast, works on a fairly large number of modern frames -- even on T47 threaded frames with the correct bottom bracket. Happy building! |
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