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#1
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Common cone wrench sizes
I'd like to start doing some more DIY wrenching and thinking of treating myself to some tools for Christmas.
I have a good idea which tools I need/want but not sure on cone wrenches. I could buy the whole Park set, but have a feeling there are more than few sizes that would never get used. If buying individual cone wrenches, what are the most common sizes? For reference, the current fleet includes... Campagnolo Chorus 10 - 2000's, rear has a silver (alloy?) axle, front is black/steel Campagnolo Neutron 10 - 2008 maybe 2009 Shimano 105 9 - 2005? Shimano Deore - bolt on disk - 2009-2011 |
#2
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I have four double-ended Park wrenches: two 13-14 and two 15-16. That covers everything I've ever had to do on Campy and Shimano hubs and brakes.
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#3
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Nice, that's what I figured... a few sizes will cover it.
Question: Do you find it necessary to have two of each for hub work? Being a novice I assumed cone wrenches for the inner nuts and I could use my standard wrenches for the outers... maybe I should go down and look at them to see if that's the case. I was thinking of the fancy gripped singles, but if the doubles will work just as well I'll probably just get two of each for about the same cost. |
#4
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I use two of the same size when doing wheel hubs, but unlike years ago when all hubs used the same basic setup, these days quite a few hubs don't even require cone wrenches. So I'd say one potential answer, which doesn't help you one bit, is "it depends."
See what other guys say, and make your decision when you have a few more inputs. Good Luck |
#5
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you just need a cone wrench to hold, well, the cone nut. it works better if you use a regular box end wrench for the locknut. a crescent wrench works too if you don't have a set of metric box ends.
(hint: metric box end sets go on sale at sears for the holiday season) |
#6
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13 x 2
14 15 x 2 and a 17 box wrench for locknuts is what I use the most. Don't buy the cheap Park stamped ones - they wear out WAY too fast. |
#7
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Mine are at least 15 years old and don't show any signs of wear.
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#8
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My 15 lasted less than a year and the 17 is almost done too. All it takes is one really tight cone/locknut and it's toast in my experience. Never had that happen working professionally with the plasti-dipped ones. I also prefer the Pedros yellow handled cone wrenches.
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#9
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I think if you're only working on your personal bikes it's less likely that you'll run into stuff that's been tightened way too far.
If you're in an LBS, then anything might come in the door and all bets are off. |
#10
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which is why cone wrenches are only used to hold the cone nut, box ends are for the locknut.
the cone nut is never too tight unless it is rusted/seized or something on the axle; the cone/lock nuts are a jamb fitting. |
#11
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Exactly what I posted originally . Guess which one wears out first when they're overtightened?? Not only that, but a number of newer Shimano locknuts have round ends and can only take cone wrenches (e.g. my 6700s).
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#12
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if I were to pick up a set of box end wrenches...which ones would you guys suggest? I have cone stuff...
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#13
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The standard answer to that question used to be Craftsman, but probably not anymore.
Would this just be for bike stuff, or would you also be using them on bigger jobs like automotive work? |
#14
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nah Louis, just bike work...size wise I mean...
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#15
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In that case, since you probably won't need to apply huge forces (except maybe on the pedals), then I don't think it makes a huge difference what brand of wrenches you get.
For bike work I don't think it makes sense to get expensive stuff like Snap-On, on the other hand, you might not want Harbor Freight either. Check out your local hardware store and if they have something decent, get that. |
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