Mechanical Discs

[binouye]

I'm now using TRP HyRds on 2 different bikes, both with Campy levers (Chorus on one, Centaur on other). The combo CAN work very well. I used to have Avid BB7s on those bikes, and still have BB7s on a tandem. I think the modulation with the HyRds is much better, plus they are quieter and just as powerful, nice selection of pads available aftermarket (Shimano, Kool Stop, Swiss Stop, etc). About 20 grams heavier than the BB7s, in case you're a weight weenie. They have a nice low profile, don't stick out to the side the way the Avids do.
Out of the box, some of the brakes have worked just fine with the Campy ergos, and some have had more cable pull than I like -- enough that the levers goes almost to the handlebar. These are all the v2 HyRds, set up with good compressionless housing for the cables, which makes a difference for ANY brake.

The solution (for me anyway) has been to top off the fluid reservoir on the HyRds. Take out the pads, hold the brakes level, remove the cap with a little Torx bit, add a little more mineral oil (Shimano's works), carefully put the cap back on, wipe off any oil that got around the outside, wipe them clean again (because mineral oil contamination WILL ruin the pads), then put the pads back in. So you should budget a $6 bottle of brake oil into the purchase. There are 2 or 3 videos on Youtube that show the process clearly too.

[MadRocketSci]

Originally Posted by madencbm

Campy 10 speed with Spyre mechanical on tandem. Previously used Avid. They both are adequate. Spyre easier to adjust pad since both sides move but overall not really impressed with much improvement with spyre.

If the Spyre just squealed less than BB7's it'd be a huge improvement for me....

[bluesea]

Originally Posted by binouye

I'm now using TRP HyRds on 2 different bikes, both with Campy levers (Chorus on one, Centaur on other). The combo CAN work very well. I used to have Avid BB7s on those bikes, and still have BB7s on a tandem. I think the modulation with the HyRds is much better, plus they are quieter and just as powerful, nice selection of pads available aftermarket (Shimano, Kool Stop, Swiss Stop, etc). About 20 grams heavier than the BB7s, in case you're a weight weenie. They have a nice low profile, don't stick out to the side the way the Avids do.
Out of the box, some of the brakes have worked just fine with the Campy ergos, and some have had more cable pull than I like -- enough that the levers goes almost to the handlebar. These are all the v2 HyRds, set up with good compressionless housing for the cables, which makes a difference for ANY brake....

I'd hope expect noticeably more power.

[jamesutiopia]

Am not passionate about constant adjustment, so with that in mind:

• BB7s: Lots of adjustments or lots of squealing, the choice is yours. Mine were silent for the first few months I had them because I adjusted them constantly. Then I found better things to do. Power is adequate with compressionless housings. Organic pads also help with the noise, but have tradeoffs...
• TRP Spyre: Nicer than BB7s and easier to set up. Power pretty similar to BB7. Haven't had them long enough to comment about whether they stay quiet. Modulation seems about the same, which is OK on a single bike. I put them on my city bike this year and they have not made a big impression one way of the other.
• TRP HyRD: Have not tried them, but if they are up to tandem duty I would be interested. The recalls are not encouraging.
• Hope V-Twin w/M4 calipers: PITA to install, very messy to fill, and the cable routing appears to be designed by someone who has never taped a handlebar before (I ended up using non-aero brake levers!). They are also excessively expensive. Modulation is superb, but not worth the setup pain on a single bike. These are awesome on the tandem (rear brake modulation, FTW). If only someone made rotors and hubs capable of handling the heat of a 300lb team on switchback-y 8-10k descents we would be all set.

I prefer a brazed-on center pull or canti for gravel, which allows for a much nicer (more flexible) fork and frame. Horses for courses...

[Vamoots58]

ordered the HY/RD's. I figure that with the combination of compressionless housing and the caliper mineral oil top-off they should provide the best solution...will update later.

[zap]

edit

Originally Posted by jamesutiopia

These are awesome on the tandem (rear brake modulation, FTW). If only someone made rotors and hubs capable of handling the heat of a 300lb team on switchback-y 8-10k descents we would be all set.

Despite the issues with BB7 calipers, we had success in France using Shimano ICE disc with EBC Gold pads……Rolf Prima Tandem Disc wheels. What I like about 2 piece (steel disc/al spider) rotors is that most of the heat does not transfer to the hubs.

Our team weight is about the same as yours.

[jbay]

I love the concept of the TRP Spyre brakes, with symmetrical pad action promising less rubbing as the pads wear. However, they have one inexcusable flaw, which is that the pads lose their adjustment. The adjustment bolts, as delivered, are loctited in place, which makes initial pad adjustment quite difficult. However, once the loctite (TM) bond is broken, the adjustment bolts are free to do whatever they like - which is seldom what I want them to do. The pad adjustment is very coarse too, meaning that the pads move a lot for a very small movement of the requisite 3mm allen key. However, I could live with that if the pads stayed where I put them, but they don't!

I returned one caliper earlier in the year, thinking I had a defective one. At the time, TRP said they had not heard of a problem like this. However, both the replacement caliper and the other one of my original pair exhibit the same behaviour. [For those who don't already know, don't try adjusting the pads using the barrel adjuster for the cable housing. That is just to take out slack in the system. Trying to use that to adjust the pads will result in the caliper running out of travel and locking up.]

The Spyres have another flaw. The pads - including the EBC gold ones that I use - are a loose fit in the caliper. This results in a clunk when you initially apply the brake, making for something akin to a loose headset feel in the front and a "Bisogna cambià qualcossa de drio," moment in the rear. Curiously, TRP's Hy/Rd and Hylex calipers use the same pads but do not suffer from this problem.

And speaking of the Hy/Rd brakes, my wife uses them in combination with SRAM brake levers on one of her bikes. They feel amazingly good, with excellent power, modulation and lever feel, and have required zero attention. My brother, however, is using them with TRP's own RRL brake levers, and the brake lever pulls almost to the 'bar every time. My measurements suggest the RRLs are at the high mechanical advantage/low cable pull end of the spectrum, but I also wonder if topping off the reservoir is in order too, having read the preceding thread.

I would love to use Hy/Rd's on the tandem, but they are not officially approved for that purpose. However, I have yet to get the rotors to glow red - although it's not from lack of trying!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_YREtBNCkI

-- John

[miguel]

Originally Posted by Pastashop

... running on 205 and 180 mm rotors front and back.

is this a road bike?
do you weigh over 250 lbs?
overkill in the rotor department

[miguel]

trp spyres are a fantastic improvement over bb7s. try using the spyres with icetech rotors.

[Pastashop]

Originally Posted by miguel

is this a road bike?

do you weigh over 250 lbs?

overkill in the rotor department

On a Singular Gryphon. Got the rotors and adapters as part of the frame purchase. :-)

[jimoots]

Originally Posted by bluesea

I'd hope expect noticeably more power.

Why would hydraulic be more powerful? Same mechanical advantage over the disc, etc.

I.e. I thought hydraulic was about modulation and feel. And a few other day-to-day advantages such as self centring pads.

[wallymann]

Originally Posted by jimmy-moots

Why would hydraulic be more powerful? Same mechanical advantage over the disc, etc.

Maybe hydros lower frictional losses implies theoretically higher power, all other things being as equal as they can.

[jimoots]

Originally Posted by wallymann

Maybe hydros lower frictional losses implies theoretically higher power, all other things being as equal as they can.

That's pretty theoretical!

[buck-50]

Originally Posted by jimmy-moots

Why would hydraulic be more powerful? Same mechanical advantage over the disc, etc.

I.e. I thought hydraulic was about modulation and feel. And a few other day-to-day advantages such as self centring pads.

Hydros aren't exactly more powerful so much as it just takes a whole lot less effort to get maximum stopping power.

With bb7s, my hands would get tired braking while mountain biking. With the XTR hydros I have now, it's literally one finger braking. Hands feel relaxed, makes mountain biking less fatiguing.

[pdmtong]

Originally Posted by buck-50

Hydros aren't exactly more powerful so much as it just takes a whole lot less effort to get maximum stopping power.

With bb7s, my hands would get tired braking while mountain biking. With the XTR hydros I have now, it's literally one finger braking. Hands feel relaxed, makes mountain biking less fatiguing.

this ^

I'm driving a full suspension mountain tandem with 203/185 six piston hydro's...one finger to stop the beast when wife and I are railing single track or dropping down a 20% stair step. Had BB7 before...no comparison.

not only less fatiguing, but IMHO actually safer. you can carry more speed, which is safer in many scenarios, knowing you can stop. In the past, you had to keep the speed down, which made clearing some things MORE difficult, or risk having a yard sale.